Exterior window sill repair ?

[naturalgas]

I have a couple of dry rotted window sills and I picked up a piece of pvc sill nose, tube of construction glue and stainless screws to replace. How do I remove the rotted sill nose without hacking it up. I was going to use a wood chisel. Any help on how to will be appreciated.


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[rcktsled]

An oscillating multi tool with a few different blades would be ideal for this. If you don't own one, know you have a great excuse to buy one. Like this:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008V4NFC2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[rcktsled]

NOW you have a great excuse...

 

[naturalgas]

Ah, thanks. I have one. I knew I picked one up on impulse a few years ago for something.


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[rcktsled]

Take some pictures and post them here. I'd be interested to see how it works out for you.

 

[naturalgas]

Will do


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[Cyberbear]

I once had a 53 year old home with termite and rotted window frames that were still structurally sound but had several gaping unsightly holes. I blew out the dirt and loose wood particles, mixed up some bondo, squeezed it into the gaps and used flat wood and wax paper to keep everything in place while the bondo set up. Afterwards, I removed the wooden blocks and wax paper and had a near perfect patch that was very strong and water proof. Light sanding and a couple coats of exterior oil based enamel and I was done.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Check This Old House on YouTube. There is a video there where Tommy shows how to do it the right way (there are a couple of subtle cuts).

 

[PassnThru]

If you have a table saw a new sill is surprisingly easy to shape out of a 2 X 6. This would be the longest lasting repair.
It does, however involve removing the window which involves removing the interior and exterior trim which involves repainting.....
I've done it and it's time consuming but cheap and fairly easy.

 

[nadogail]

I once had a 53 year old home with termite and rotted window frames that were still structurally sound but had several gaping unsightly holes. I blew out the dirt and loose wood particles, mixed up some bondo, squeezed it into the gaps and used flat wood and wax paper to keep everything in place while the bondo set up. Afterwards, I removed the wooden blocks and wax paper and had a near perfect patch that was very strong and water proof. Light sanding and a couple coats of exterior oil based enamel and I was done.

Gotta love Bondo. I use it to patch fences and fascia boards.

 

[naturalgas]

I've already done the bondo trick on it a few years ago. Now the whole corner is gone under the side trim board. I figure pvc and it will be permanent . Old wizard I will check out YouTube , thanks. Passnthru if I'm going to take the whole window out I will just put a new one in. I've already done a couple that were real bad. Thanks, guys. Jim




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[theoldwizard1]

I once had a 53 year old home with termite and rotted window frames that were still structurally sound but had several gaping unsightly holes. I blew out the dirt and loose wood particles, mixed up some bondo, squeezed it into the gaps and used flat wood and wax paper to keep everything in place while the bondo set up. Afterwards, I removed the wooden blocks and wax paper and had a near perfect patch that was very strong and water proof. Light sanding and a couple coats of exterior oil based enamel and I was done.

Tommy from This Old House uses 2 part epoxy putty. A bit stronger. The blocks of wood and wax paper are great ideas !

 

[csp]

Bondo is permeable while two part epoxy made for this purpose is not.

 

[rlitman]

I've already done the bondo trick on it a few years ago. Now the whole corner is gone

That's the trouble with bondo. Rot is a fungal infection. Remove the soft part left behind, and there's still plenty of fungus just ahead of it. Adding bondo to the hole just seals it in.

When it comes to something as thick (and as replaceable) as a sill, total replacement is the way to go. PVC is a good idea, but I'd worry more about proper flashing and keeping the water draining as it should.

When I bought my house, I had a big problem with the mullions in a couple of original windows from 1929. These were still largely there, just starting to go. I was able to save the wood using CPES, and then replace all the putty (how the water got in in the first place. The CPES has solvents that go past the rot and kill the fungus. It's water thin. Way too thin to build up missing wood, but thin enough to soak through soft parts and rescue them. Once treated, you can always bondo on top of this.

A couple of other windows were just too far gone to be saved. I've got nice Pella replacements there now.

 

[naturalgas]

I plan on using wood hardener after I cut out the rotted sills 2 and then add the pvc replacement sill. They are pretty slick. They have a couple ridges cut into the bottom for water flow off instead of flat. I'm building my dream garage right now, (different thread ), so I want to wait a couple, three years before I get new replacements.


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