External Enclosure for Emergency Stop Switch

[Homewrecker]

I have a Protec Emergency Stop Switch (pic attached) that I will be installing when my 2 Post lift is installed. I'm having a hard time finding an external enclosure/device box that fits the depth. It will fit inside a 3 inch deep device box with clearance at the back for the wiring but that is stud mounted and I have not been able to find something that's external/waterproof etc.

For anyone using this switch, what did you use for the enclosure? I really don't want to 'Frankenstein' a stud mounted box so it can be mounted to the lift post/motor.

Basically need a 3" deep external box with a 1/2" port on the top and bottom for the conduit I'll be running.

 

[southalabama]

May end up with plastic non metallic box and drill or cut holes as needed.

 

[Homewrecker]

May end up with plastic non metallic box and drill or cut holes as needed.

It doesn't matter to me what material. I have not found a Plastic/Metal External box deep enough. The terminals are at the rear and not the side so I need as much clearance for the wire as possible so as to not add any strain.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Automation Direct has a pretty wide assortment of electrical enclosures from Hammond and other manufacturers. You should be able to find something there that will fit. https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...s_-z-_thermal_management_-z-_lighting#start=0

 

[jbfsr]

I just used standard outdoor metal box with a couple of spacers. Could caulk the gap I guess but hasn't been a problem. I wired mine AFTER the contactor to make sure it's really a stop switch. If you put yours after the contactor make sure the contacts can handle the current.

 

[Homewrecker]

Automation Direct has a pretty wide assortment of electrical enclosures from Hammond and other manufacturers. You should be able to find something there that will fit. https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...s_-z-_thermal_management_-z-_lighting#start=0

Thanks. I'll take a look at what they have. They ship to Canada so that's good. If I can find a single gang box deep enough that I don't have to modify that would be great. Otherwise I'd have to figure out how to mod a generic junction box so that I can mount the switch inside it.

 

[Homewrecker]

I just used standard outdoor metal box with a couple of spacers. Could caulk the gap I guess but hasn't been a problem. I wired mine AFTER the contactor to make sure it's really a stop switch. If you put yours after the contactor make sure the contacts can handle the current.

Nice setup. Is that one of those Taymac or Red dot aluminum boxes? I have one from Red Dot but the switch bottoms out in the box so i'd need a lot of spacers; more than what you appear to be using. I think your box is deeper. My plan was to put the switch inline from the ceiling drop before the power unit so it will basically act like the motor isn't plugged in when the switch is tripped - 240V Red and Black Wires on the line side then the motor wiring on the load side.

 

[Homewrecker]

I found an aluminum weatherproof extension box/ring that would probably work very well as it will provide an extra inch of depth.

 

[Jakemedic]

I used a metal 2 gang box with a single gang plate on mine. Worked well.

 

[Homewrecker]

I used a metal 2 gang box with a single gang plate on mine. Worked well.

That's an option too. I actually have an adapter plate that goes from 2 gang to 1.

 

[mm08822]

try these.....3-1/2" deep box and a flush single gang mud ring.
(And yes, there are more expensive 4" square boxes! Drawn boxes= rounded corners.)

 

[Homewrecker]

try these.....3-1/2" deep box and a flush single gang mud ring.
(And yes, there are more expensive 4" square boxes! Drawn boxes= rounded corners.)

That's also a great option. I have the device ring (originally got it for another purpose) but the useless Home Depot up the road does not sell the 4" boxes in that depth. I'll try the local electrical supply store where I've gotten hard to find items before.

I appreciate all the suggestions. Lots of good ideas.

 

[southalabama]

Carlon Lamson & Sessons E987RR 6 X 6 X 4 Rigid Non-Metallic Conduit Junction Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IOXJVIC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Norcal]

Use a deep Bell box, should be in stock at a big box store, should work a bit better then the standard depth Bell box shown in post # 5.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

The only place I used one of those switches was on my router table, where I simply built it into the wood cabinet where it is contained in an isolated compartment.

As an aside, this post reminded me of many years ago when I had a very old table saw and was concerned about having a "safety on switch" - in other words, I was most concerned about the saw being accidently turned on. My solution was to drill the bottom of a plastic 35 mm film canister and insert the toggle of a toggle switch, before bolting the switch to the panel. I kept the lid snapped on the canister and only removed it when I was going to use the saw. Stick the tip of your finger in the canister and flip up or down as needed.

 

[Homewrecker]

I ended up getting a Hubbell Die-cast Aluminum Weatherproof Box and the associated 1" Extension Ring. Got lots of clearance now at the back of the switch. All I need now is a lift to install it on lol.