Does anybody know of a good extra long handle flew head ratchet. I had an older Cornwell SRF76LHB years ago that I sold after getting rid of my Super Duty and going to a 1/2 ton truck. I’ve got a Super Duty again and my current 1/2 drive ratchet is a long handle Carlyle, and I feel like I’m going to break it when I’m taking lugs off. I’m looking for a suitable heavy beam ratchet in the 24”+ length range. I’m having a hard time finding another Cornwell as they do not seem to do online orders. Is there anything else out there that might be comparable but not break the bank?
Extra Long Handle 1/2” Ratchet
- Thread starter Smokeem
- Start date
why not use a breaker bar ?
you could add a ratchet adapter to a breaker bar
Pontiac787
Well-known member
Look for a used Snap-On on eBay. They can be had for reasonable prices with a little patience.
scooby074
Well-known member
Snappy has a 24" 1/2 ratchet. With flex head. Drtyler got it above
sparky 1971
Well-known member
How far does the bank bend before breaking? I have a Mac 26" locking flex that bought off the truck for $200 cash, it's quite a bit more directly from Mac. I used to have a 24" Gearwrench but I didn't trust the flex joint so I gave it away Honestly, the best bang for the buck long ratchet is probably the Tekton, but it's not a flex head.
Last edited:
Wamsutta
Well-known member
You should look for a flex head instead of a straight ratchet. That way you don't have to add an extension to the equation.
I carry a Snap-on in my car. It's an S831 with a Proto deep impact socket. It'll work both for the lug nuts and the scissor jack.
I carry a Snap-on in my car. It's an S831 with a Proto deep impact socket. It'll work both for the lug nuts and the scissor jack.
Retired dozer fixer
Well-known member
Why are you removing lugs with a ratchet? If you can afford a SD Ford you should be able to have an impact wrench
Wamsutta
Well-known member
Then you always have to make sure it's on a trickle charge somewhere. Cold hard steel and muscle is more reliable than electrons!
milky2k
Well-known member
Break the lug nuts free with a breaker bar and use the Carlyle ratchet to spin them off. Let the breaker bar take the abuse, not your ratchet. That’s what it’s for. HF has a nice Icon 25” breaker bar for $37.
www.harborfreight.com
1/2 in. Drive 25 in. Professional Breaker Bar
Amazing deals on this 1/2In Dr 25In Breaker Bar at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
richfinn
Well-known member
Bite the bullet and go Snap-On, I don't normally bother with warranty on tools unless it's something I might need spares for 10-20 years down the road.
I avoid comfort grips for the same reason and stick to the regular chrome handles.
A used one would probably be fine as you can have it fixed/service it yourself by handing it to a dealer or ordering parts online.
I avoid comfort grips for the same reason and stick to the regular chrome handles.
A used one would probably be fine as you can have it fixed/service it yourself by handing it to a dealer or ordering parts online.
swsman
Well-known member
Get a 3/4 ratchet and an appropriate socket.
www.tekton.com
3/4 Inch Drive x 22 Inch Non-Quick-Release Ratchet | TEKTON
Classic non-quick-release ratchet with 72-tooth gear, 5-degree swing, and 1000 ft-lb. torque. Ultra-compact head and sleek, comfortable handle. SRH01322.
Wamsutta
Well-known member
demarpaint
Well-known member
That or Snap On, both excellent tools.
I have an older SLF936 I bought off the truck probably 16 years ago, it’s been used, severely abused and it is still running the original gear set. I only just recently pulled the plate and greased the gears in it just because I was doing all the others too. I’ve stood on it, kicked it, beat on it and even had 4’ cheaters on it before. It’s never skipped, bent, locked up or not worked.
I’ve thought about getting a SLF80A to replace it but I’ve got to much history with this one
I’ve thought about getting a SLF80A to replace it but I’ve got to much history with this one
KnurledNut
Well-known member
mreisner
Well-known member
Check out Cat tools. They are basically the older style of Snap-on tools by snap-on/williams
I couldn't agree more! I actually had a SH936 too and sold it when I got a SH80A off FB marketplace for $40. The dual 80s especially the 1/2 are some nice ratchets. Now I have 3 dual 80 in 3/8 and only 1 is a newer USA stamped head, its the best of the bunch feel wise but they are all better than the old FH936 I had....
Do you own this ratchet - 24” or so length, flex, in 1/2”drive? If so, what is the part number and how much does it cost?
The Snap-on SLF80A is proven. The drive and flex joint hold up to use and abuse.
Quick search shows its a 17-1/2" pn J5450HTCF
Proto 1/2" Drive 90 Geared Teeth Pear Head Style Hand Ratchet, 17-11/16" L, Full Polish Finish J5450HTCF | Zoro
Order Proto 1/2" Drive 90 Geared Teeth Pear Head Style Hand Ratchet, 17-11/16" L, Full Polish Finish, J5450HTCF at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.
www.zoro.com
rust in the eye
Well-known member
Really? Some of you are suggesting throwing a several hundred dollar ratchet in the vehicle for tire changing.
This and the appropriate socket in the vehicle and call it done:https: //www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/breaker-bars/12-in-drive-25-in-professional-breaker-bar-64820.html
How tough is it to switch over to a ratchet and how often do you expect to be changing tires roadside??
If I had the money some of you throw around I'd throw mine away.
This and the appropriate socket in the vehicle and call it done:https: //www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/breaker-bars/12-in-drive-25-in-professional-breaker-bar-64820.html
How tough is it to switch over to a ratchet and how often do you expect to be changing tires roadside??
If I had the money some of you throw around I'd throw mine away.
I'd suggest just buying a breaker bar, you'll need it sooner or later. I bought one for the truck and keep it under the backseat, between truck, dump trailer and enclosed trailer, I figured it was a good investment to have an exrta one.
Don't go crazy for the one off use, I think I have a HF or Masterforce from Menard's. I'd have to look to be sure.
For something in the garage, I'd be getting and impact wrench.. . . air or battery.
Don't go crazy for the one off use, I think I have a HF or Masterforce from Menard's. I'd have to look to be sure.
For something in the garage, I'd be getting and impact wrench.. . . air or battery.
HannibalLecter
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 26, 2023
- Messages
- 402
Hazet 916HPLG
I do have a Milwaukee impact but I run custom wheels with splined sockets and don’t like using the impact on them. I’ve seen many of the splined sockets break and then turning a mess if you don’t have a spare or the correct pattern. I’ll look at some of the suggestions above and see if I can find a good used one.
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
Am I the only guy that uses cross lug wrenches? To me it is much easier than a ratchet or breaker bar. I just break them loose and spin them off, (same with tightening. Spin them on and snug them up). I even use it in the garage where I have a few impacts handy, though I do use a torque wrench to snug them up.
cosmokenney
Well-known member
I don't buy anything but Gearwrench anymore: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GEARWRE...-Long-Handle-Teardrop-Ratchet-81364/311579748
VolvoRyan
Well-known member
I don't think the OP said he was keeping it in the car..... and he mentioned a Cornwell, so we're talking dollars.
The 24" Dual-80 is a fantastic tool that nothing else can touch (IMHO). Well worth the money.... and no silver spoon here.
-Ryan
Firebrick43
Well-known member
I also recommend a 24” dual 80 snap on. I haven’t used a breaker bar in over a decade and several times when my 42” 3/4 snap on was immediately available stood and bounced on it with my 250 fat *** “gasp”
It has held up so far without fail nor a repair kit as of yet.
It has held up so far without fail nor a repair kit as of yet.
rust in the eye
Well-known member
Since he mentioned a specific purpose, lugs on his truck, I made the assumption, perhaps incorrectly so.
If OP insists on not using a breaker bar then he will indeed want a premium tool. The one you suggest seems readily available second hand, maybe I'll treat myself when funds allow.
On another topic I see that you seem well versed in Bosch K jet. May I pick your brain?
I don't plan on keeping it with me at all times. I would take it if we are headed on a long distance trip or camping. In our area's that we go camping we do not have cell service. I usually carry a wide assortment of tools with me on these occasions. I'm going to check out the Snap On ratchet and even see what a friend of mine could get a new one through the Snap On truck.
Thanks
Thanks
Kohken 4711X cross-wrench and socket
Packard V8
Well-known member
It's a pretty safe bet only younger guys think of breaking F250 lugs with a flex head ratchet. My dad would have been so ashamed if I'd been so abusive of an expensive tool.
FWIW, I know a Snap-on truck guy who just retired after forty years. He said, "Back in the day, a mechanic was embarrassed to have to warranty a tool, because it was obviously abused. Today, the young "techs" laugh as they warranty chrome sockets used on an impact gun, or 3/8"-drive sockets split, being used where a 1/2"dr was obviously called for."
jack vines
FWIW, I know a Snap-on truck guy who just retired after forty years. He said, "Back in the day, a mechanic was embarrassed to have to warranty a tool, because it was obviously abused. Today, the young "techs" laugh as they warranty chrome sockets used on an impact gun, or 3/8"-drive sockets split, being used where a 1/2"dr was obviously called for."
jack vines
VolvoRyan
Well-known member
To live in a car, a breaker bar definitely seems like the way to go. The only time you'll need a ratchet is when you forgot to bring it with you.
As for the 24" Snap-On, I'm pretty good at up-selling myself. I have the locking flex head, and it really is a heck of a tool. The handle is thicker (so, less bendy) than the breaker bars. I bought it for one purpose, and felt a bit stupid for how much I spent on it..... but it gets a lot of use, sometimes for leverage, sometimes for convenience. I'm surprised that I haven't lunched the guts.
Anything I knew about K-jet is long gone from my brain.... but I may know where to start looking for answers. Feel free to ping me.
-Ryan
VolvoRyan
Well-known member
ASME spec to beat for a 1/2" drive flex-head is 375 ft-lbs. I'm not really a Ford guy, but the internet tells me F-250 lug nut torque is a bit less than half of that... so we're doing OK.
-Ryan
Yep....I have never understood the notion that using a tool within its parameters is "abuse." A lug nut torqued to 150 ft-lb isn't any different than a crank bolt torqued to 150 ft-lb, but no one would bat an eye at using a ratchet for that.
Packard V8
Well-known member
If it only took 150 lb/ft to break loose an F250 lug nut. In a previous life as a Goodyear tire service manager, we saw many the air impact wouldn't budge. The way off was to turn the gun to "tighten" and hit it a few licks. Often, that would be enough. If not, then the 3/4" breaker bar was called upon. Some were so rusted, they'd twist off the wheel stud.
If only users limited tools to within their parameters. Talk to the Snap-on dealers who get flex head ratchets returned for warranty with obvious signs of cheater bar abuse.
You guys do you, but those of us trained in the last century were taught never to use a ratchet to break loose a fastener. And to use a flex head ratchet to break loose fasteners . . . . we just can't bring ourselves to go there.
jack vines
Stick-man
Well-known member
I agree. In every one of my six vehicles (myself, wife, three kids and a spare) I have a Milwaukee impact with one battery, lug nut flip socket set, 1/2" extendable ratchet (in case battery goes dead), 1/2" extension, bottle jack, foam knee pad, and first aid kit. If something goes wrong, I want it fixed as fast and painlessly as possible. Every oil change, battery is checked and charged if necessary. The batteries today are so much better than the ones long ago.