Extra Long vs Standard 4 Post Lift - Maximize Garage Space?

[zaius]

Hi,

I have a 1.5 car garage and I'm debating whether to go with an extra-long lift (238" w/ramps), or just a standard length lift (207" w/ramps). Both will be extra tall as I have the garage height. The two models I'm eyeing are the Peak 409-HP and 408-HP.

I'm eyeing the extra-long as it will give my wife extra comfort in driving under the lift daily (2024 Honda Civic). And perhaps future proof for any large vehicles in the future. However, you can see it will fully use up the whole length of my garage. I'm pretty sure the ramps will need to be removed everytime.

1) Do you see any issues moving the posts as close to the garage door as possible? I would like to access my snowblower/lawnmower without moving the car out.
2) Do I need any clearances around the lift?
3) Is this a bad idea and I should stick with the standard 4 post?

Thanks!
Gene

 

[racecougar]

Pulling the ramps off all the time will be a PITA. Will your door clear the posts if the posts are that close to the door?

 

[kbuhagiar]

Pulling the ramps off all the time will be a PITA. Will your door clear the posts if the posts are that close to the door?

^^^This.
SOOO much easier since I moved my four-post farther in so I can leave the ramps on all the time.

 

[pbon]

I have 29’ depth in my garage but a work bench in front of the lift and I like a wide clear path to walk behind. Have the Bendpak HD-9XW, which is longer than the HD-7 at 198” and I use 48” ramps rather than the included 36” ramps. When the lift is not in use, I keep it raised and put the ramps on top of the lift runners. I use lightweight Race Ramps, which cannot be left attached when the lift is raised. I probably should have bought the 48” aluminum Bendpak ramps before prices went up because they are more durable and still reasonably light. The longer length helps with my lowered cars.

The most important thing to me since my lift is usually up is the ability to walk underneath, so I like the roughly 7’ height of the HD-9XW. As for length, in hindsight, maybe I could have gotten by with the 2’ shorter HD-7. I never lift over 7000 lbs, but occasionally I have put longer wheelbase cars on the lift like Lincoln Navigator L, Chevrolet Suburban and Ford E350 XLT and Ford Transit 350 XLT that would not have fit the shorter lift. It would have been fine for my cars, however.

 

[kngelv]

You have to pull the ramps off anyway. She won't be able to drive under it with the ramps hanging down. You also need to make sure that your door won't hit the posts on an extra tall and extra long lift. You need the door to go as close to the ceiling as possible and use a jack-shaft opener. I personally think it's a bad idea to have the underside of the lift be a daily parking spot. What is the purpose of the lift? Pictures would help.

James

 

[kbuhagiar]

You have to pull the ramps off anyway. She won't be able to drive under it with the ramps hanging down. You also need to make sure that your door won't hit the posts on an extra tall and extra long lift. You need the door to go as close to the ceiling as possible and use a jack-shaft opener. I personally think it's a bad idea to have the underside of the lift be a daily parking spot. What is the purpose of the lift? Pictures would help.

James

Not necessarily true - I have a DirectLift Pro Park 8 Long/Tall (extra height & length). I leave the steel ramps attached all the time, and my wife has no problem whatsoever driving our 2015 Ford Escape under the lift platform when it is fully elevated.

 

[pbon]

I personally think it's a bad idea to have the underside of the lift be a daily parking spot.

I have not found it to be any problem and have been parking my $100k car under my 4 post for 7 years.

 

[mikedodge]

If you don't need the extra long lift don't bother getting it. Even long vehicle will fit on a normal one and you get more room up front without the posts in the way.

 

[finn]

I have a standard length an an extra long / wide Advantage four post. I needed the larger lift for my crew cab dually.

Without that constraint, the standard is in general a little easier to work around, although the extra wide is easier to park under.

 

[racecougar]

You have to pull the ramps off anyway. She won't be able to drive under it with the ramps hanging down. You also need to make sure that your door won't hit the posts on an extra tall and extra long lift. You need the door to go as close to the ceiling as possible and use a jack-shaft opener. I personally think it's a bad idea to have the underside of the lift be a daily parking spot. What is the purpose of the lift? Pictures would help.

James

I park under mine daily.

 

[kngelv]

My lift is different in that the ramps will hang straight down because it attaches to flaps that pivot. I did not realize that other lifts use different methodology for the ramp attachment. I have a Backyard Buddy.

James

 

[zaius]

Thanks everyone for your reply!

I have a high lift garage door with a side mounted opener already.

I can purchase the aluminium ramps (or race ramps) to make my life easier.

I guess I'm debating if the extra long is worth it as a car below will be driven in and out daily, especially in the winter. The only con I can really see is it might limit moving stuff around in the garage.

This is what my garage looks like

 

[finn]

I park under mine daily.

Looks like a potential forehead basher unless you have the discipline to park the lift very high up.

Part of the reason I selected my lifts was the removable aluminum ramps were standard.

The plastic/ foam ramps a couple of posters talk about might be even better.

The aluminum ramps store well on the runway.

 

[pbon]

I would not buy the longer lift unless you need the length for long wheelbase cars. It is perfectly OK to have some overhang front and or rear — it is the wheels that have to be on the lift.

 

[racecougar]

Looks like a potential forehead basher unless you have the discipline to park the lift very high up.

Part of the reason I selected my lifts was the removable aluminum ramps were standard.

The plastic/ foam ramps a couple of posters talk about might be even better.

The aluminum ramps store well on the runway.

The ramps are above head height. Removing ramps is a PITA, IMO.

 

[zaius]

The stored car will be raised above my height, as I have enough ceiling clearance. No need to wear a hardhat around the lift.

 

[Skyman]

In the OP's situation, I would go with the standard length, without giving it a second thought.

 

[finn]

The ramps are above head height. Removing ramps is a PITA, IMO.

Not on either of my Advantage lifts, and, like I said, fixed ramps are only above head height if you run the lift up high.

I keep mine relatively low to facilitate working on cars on the lift..

Even when I park under the lifts, I tend to keep the runways relatively low and often store things on the ramps. My 36 Ford is on one lift, with all sorts of parts, ie sheet metal, suspension parts, etc stored where I can see it, but the lift is high enough to park a car under it.

Same with the other lift. There’s a Roadrunner on the lift, along with a couple of slot mags, lug nuts, some tools, etc, all that I can see readily, and a Mustang beneath.

Drooping steel ramps were something I ruled as a no-no. That requirement started when I hit my head on the drooping ramp in a commercial shop doing work on my F450. That heavy steel ramps left a mark.

 

[racecougar]

Good thing you have a lift that suits your specific taste then.

I'd classify having to move stuff off the runways to load/unload cars a PITA, too.

In the five years I've had this lift, parking under it daily and using it for work regularly, I've managed to avoid knocking my head on anything. Not the non-drooping steel ramps, not the runways, not the vehicle...

 

[finn]

Good thing you have a lift that suits your specific taste then.

I'd classify having to move stuff off the runways to load/unload cars a PITA, too.

In the five years I've had this lift, parking under it daily and using it for work regularly, I've managed to avoid knocking my head on anything. Not the non-drooping steel ramps, not the runways, not the vehicle...

I bought both four post lifts when I sold another property that had a 24’x32’ garage I used for storage. Two lifts was significantly cheaper than putting up another building or adding on to my existing shop

The 36 is a project. It lives up there.

Didn’t have time to get the Roadrunner out this year. I did mount new tires this spring while it was on the lift, though.

That thump on the head was a wake-up call. Don’t need a subdural hematoma.

Just throwing that out there. If you’re happy with fixed ramps, that’s ok with me.

 

[c39er]

Hanging ramps will bite you sooner or later...and are ugly hanging out there.
I just fabbed up some flip up ramps for my 20' long and extra tall lift.
Plenty of room for any car on it with the ramps flipped up out of the way.
Posts are exactly where I needed them to be too.

 

[zaius]

I park under mine daily.

racecougar, how tight is it for the 4th gen Mustang under the lift for your car?
Approximately how much clearance do you have on each side with your mirrors?

Thanks.

 

[zaius]

As for ramps, one possibility is to build some out by stacking some 2x8 lumber

 

[NettlesD]

I park under mine daily.

This place looks awful familiar. By chance, did you have some sort of TBU gathering recently? Do any of these vehicles do burn outs?

 

[gmcgeo]

I have not found it to be any problem and have been parking my $100k car under my 4 post for 7 years.

What kind of car do you have?

 

[pbon]

BMW M5

 

[racecougar]

This place looks awful familiar. By chance, did you have some sort of TBU gathering recently? Do any of these vehicles do burn outs?

Maaaaaaaaybe.

 

[pbon]

Looks like fun place to hang out with performance car enthusiasts!

 

[racecougar]

racecougar, how tight is it for the 4th gen Mustang under the lift for your car?
Approximately how much clearance do you have on each side with your mirrors?

Thanks.

Just looking at the specs:

Width of a New Edge Mustang = 73.1"
Width between columns of EFP9 / Pro-Park 9 Plus = 109.5"

The width between the columns is just over 3' wider than the car. Backing in every day is a breeze.

As for ramps, one possibility is to build some out by stacking some 2x8 lumber

You'll need them to hook into the runways. The last thing you want is to have one move as you pull onto the lift. I doubt that wooden ramps would be much lighter than the steel ones anyway. If you're stuck pulling the ramps off all the time, I'd look at aluminum or foam.

Hanging tamps will bite you soonet or later...and are ugly hanging out there.
I just gabbed up some flip up ramps for my 20' long and extra tall lift.
Posts are exactly where I needed them to be too.

Flip-ups are fine if you have a short enough car on the runways, otherwise they are even more of a pain than removable ramps, as they're stuck hanging down.

 

[zaius]

thanks racecougar for your help. that 109.5" width is amazing.

 

[racecougar]

thanks racecougar for your help. that 109.5" width is amazing.

This is over 5 years old, but I put this spreadsheet together when I shopped for mine. It may be useful here to compare specs (forget the prices though, those are way outdated). I'd focus more on the width between posts than the overall length if you're worried about ease of backing in a car.

 

[boosteddsm92]

I personally think it's a bad idea to have the underside of the lift be a daily parking spot.

James

Every day. One of the main uses of a 4 post IMO.

 

[DallasGuy]

As a longtime lurker, I’ve seen a lot of comments here, and no one has ever come mentioned the setup I’ve come up with… so I thought I’d opine.

The answer to which ramps is- the longer aluminum ramps (with the swivel bracket) so you can rotate them up towards the car when storing. Then you never have to remove the ramps, and they never hang off when not in use (so long as you have enough height when lift is at full rise for the vertically-stored ramps to not hit the garage door- but most cars are taller than the ramps are long so I view it as a non-issue. are Fashioning a small piece of metal or wood to prevent the ramps from over- rotating (and thus hitting the car) is the key. I mocked up a stop with a 2x4 and some “L” brackets. 1st photo shows ramps in upright stored position with stop (vs behind it without stop). I’ll be making new stops out of of heavier gauge metal post mock up

Separately, I bought a boat lift due to the extra width and tall rise… but then added another set of runners so I can maneuver on/off the lift (very tight driveway)

I have a foot on both sides of my mirrors, never worry about driving off the ramps, and now can drop/raise the ramps in less than 15 seconds.

 

[finn]

If you’re going to get the foam Race Ramps, hop on it.

The factory in Escanaba burned down so availability is limited until they rebuild.

 

[racecougar]

As a longtime lurker, I’ve seen a lot of comments here, and no one has ever come mentioned the setup I’ve come up with… so I thought I’d opine.

The answer to which ramps is- the longer aluminum ramps (with the swivel bracket) so you can rotate them up towards the car when storing. Then you never have to remove the ramps, and they never hang off when not in use (so long as you have enough height when lift is at full rise for the vertically-stored ramps to not hit the garage door- but most cars are taller than the ramps are long so I view it as a non-issue. are Fashioning a small piece of metal or wood to prevent the ramps from over- rotating (and thus hitting the car) is the key. I mocked up a stop with a 2x4 and some “L” brackets. 1st photo shows ramps in upright stored position with stop (vs behind it without stop). I’ll be making new stops out of of heavier gauge metal post mock up

Separately, I bought a boat lift due to the extra width and tall rise… but then added another set of runners so I can maneuver on/off the lift (very tight driveway)

I have a foot on both sides of my mirrors, never worry about driving off the ramps, and now can drop/raise the ramps in less than 15 seconds.

See posts #21 and #29.

 

[DallasGuy]

I meant to refer more to the boat lift with extra ramps as “haven’t seen it”, but given my work that evening was on the “ramp stops” I included both.

Back on topic, you’d have to have a LONG car or unique dimensions to be unable to flip up the ramps- as that would mean you’re hanging off both ends of the lift. I’d wager almost every use works with flip up ramps and if your car is overly long, then allow the overhang on the non-ramp side

 

[racecougar]

if your car is overly long, then allow the overhang on the non-ramp side

That shifts the weight distribution way off center. Not to mention, those of us with low cars won't clear the tire stops at the front end.

 

[DallasGuy]

Reversing the car on shouldn't change the weight distribution, and would allow the overhang to be on the opposite of the ramps.

I can't imagine there is enough clearance to get up the ramp, but not enough to clear the few inches of the tire stops (don't those fold down anyway)?

FWIW: I'm not trying to die on this hill, just wanted to share what I did to solve the topic per this thread. If I had seen this thread back when I built my setup, it would've saved me a lot of effort in coming up with a solution for my needs. Results may vary.

 

[racecougar]

Reversing the car on shouldn't change the weight distribution, and would allow the overhang to be on the opposite of the ramps.

Backing a car on every day/regularly just to fold up ramps sounds like a royal PITA, IMO. You could do it, but I'm not going to.

I can't imagine there is enough clearance to get up the ramp, but not enough to clear the few inches of the tire stops (don't those fold down anyway)?

If you remove them, or in some cases, fold them down, then the safety factor of having said tire stops is gone. Regardless, we're back to putting the vast majority of the weight all the way at one end of the lift.

FWIW: I'm not trying to die on this hill...

Me either. My point is that what works for a '58 Vette on a large lift doesn't necessarily apply to a lot of other situations. It isn't the answer for all.

 

[logical]

I cut the steel ramps into stubby ramps that stay attached and above head high...and clear the door that is only 15 inches or so from the lift. I just lay out the race ramps and lower the stubs onto them.