Extra wide CV axle puller?

[ThePostman]

So I already have CTA 1040 and the OEM smaller version that attach to a slide hammer. My wife has a 2010 Scion tc where the CTA is just too small to fit behind. The space is tight and the angles are not good to get in with a pry bar thanks to the subframe, shape of the transmission, and another obstruction or two. I don't want to risk busting the c clip either as I've been there done that, and they are impossible to find locally the same day, meaning buy a new axle for the clip. So before I buy another CTA or the OEM one to grind out a wider opening that hopefully works, do I have any other options for the slide hammer? How well do the cable loops work?

 

[Stevewr54]

Look at the OEM Tools 57058 at Autozone. Steve

 

[Old Man Roger]

I’ve seen people put axles back in without the clip. Once everything is put back together, there’s not enough room for the axle to come out. I’ve never done it, and I don’t know how it worked out long term, but their test drive went ok..lol

 

[Wamsutta]

I use these two OTC tools on the end of a slide hammer:

OTC 7507

OTC 7508

 

[ThePostman]

OEM 57058, 27058 and OTC 7507 are the same thing. I typically have the CTA 1040, which is bigger than the other 3, already threaded on the 7508 ready to go. I ended up breaking out the grinders and carbide burr bit and sacrificed the 7507 when I had a little bit of time today. The part is stupid cheap to begin with, relatively speaking. I widened the middle, and ground down some of the raised edge, and, it fits. It's crude, but necessity is the mother of invention. Pics possibly tomorrow. I've also seen the tool that clamps down on the shaft part of the axle, I don't trust it. I've had the experience of yanking axles that way, and just leave that inner housing still stuck in there. I'm still curious if anyone has used the slide hammer cable attachment, such as the one in this "master set."

https://www.amazon.com/Puller-Hammer-Removal-Adapter-Attachments/dp/B08XLMN1LM?tag=atomicindus08-20

The CTA 1040 measures out at 63.5mm I.D. by the way. Thanks all for your input. Oh, the guy who said don't worry about the c-clip, that's a no go. That cheap c-clip is what locks it in. I did a very quick test drive without it, maybe, maybe a 1/4 mile and it came partially out, and damaged the new axle seal. At least those can be sourced locally same day, the c-clip, not so much and I'm in the DC area more specifically by Dulles airport.

 

[Old Man Roger]

OEM 57058, 27058 and OTC 7507 are the same thing. I typically have the CTA 1040, which is bigger than the other 3, already threaded on the 7508 ready to go. I ended up breaking out the grinders and carbide burr bit and sacrificed the 7507 when I had a little bit of time today. The part is stupid cheap to begin with, relatively speaking. I widened the middle, and ground down some of the raised edge, and, it fits. It's crude, but necessity is the mother of invention. Pics possibly tomorrow. I've also seen the tool that clamps down on the shaft part of the axle, I don't trust it. I've had the experience of yanking axles that way, and just leave that inner housing still stuck in there. I'm still curious if anyone has used the slide hammer cable attachment, such as the one in this "master set."

https://www.amazon.com/Puller-Hammer-Removal-Adapter-Attachments/dp/B08XLMN1LM?tag=atomicindus08-20

The CTA 1040 measures out at 63.5mm I.D. by the way. Thanks all for your input. Oh, the guy who said don't worry about the c-clip, that's a no go. That cheap c-clip is what locks it in. I did a very quick test drive without it, maybe, maybe a 1/4 mile and it came partially out, and damaged the new axle seal. At least those can be sourced locally same day, the c-clip, not so much and I'm in the DC area more specifically by Dulles airport.

Ya, I did a google search on the subject. Looks like some cars can get away without it, and some cars can’t. Some it even depends on which side.

 

[Steve_P]

I’ve seen people put axles back in without the clip. Once everything is put back together, there’s not enough room for the axle to come out. I’ve never done it, and I don’t know how it worked out long term, but their test drive went ok..lol

No, don't do that. Years ago, I put a set of reman axles in a Civic, and of course they add oversized balls to take up the wear, when necessary, and they're tight for a while. After my test drive one of the axles pulled out of the transmission. It was still functional, but not sealing. I pushed it back in, hoped for the best, told the woman not to make a lot of sharp turns for a while.... and it was fine. And it had clips on it.

 

[ThePostman]

Now if a "prettier" version could be made..... The axle had an inner shield 70mm across

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Did this actually work without bending?

 

[ThePostman]

Did this actually work without bending?

Yes. Now how many uses will I get out of it before it ends or breaks, who knows. I only did this for a unique scenario, not for everyday use. If I get a handful of uses out of it then it breaks, it was totally worth butchering a tool that is only $10-20.

 

[engineer2]

I use this. Works on Hondas. Don't know about other makes.

 

[tak1313]

I've been thinking of using this tool next time I need to pop and axle out. There's various versions at all different prices - google "axle popper." You can use just one and jack against the case/axle, but it's meant for the one to brace against the case and one to wedge (by pounding) against it, providing the pressure to pop the axle. As long as there's space, I would use both to help protect against damaging the case - especially if the case is aluminum. I have read anecdotally that they work well.

Note, I do have both sizes of the slide hammer attachment, but this would give me another reason to get and try a new tool.

 

[Steve_P]

I've been thinking of using this tool next time I need to pop and axle out. There's various versions at all different prices - google "axle popper." You can use just one and jack against the case/axle, but it's meant for the one to brace against the case and one to wedge (by pounding) against it, providing the pressure to pop the axle. As long as there's space, I would use both to help protect against damaging the case - especially if the case is aluminum. I have read anecdotally that they work well.

Note, I do have both sizes of the slide hammer attachment, but this would give me another reason to get and try a new tool.

I have that and it's just ok. Well, it works where it fits, but it's not very durable.

I'm just a home DIYer and have had several applications where it wasn't wide enough- as simple as it is, they really need to make multiple fork widths. Maybe they do now, but not when I bought it several years ago. The main issue with it is that it appears to be just mild steel- mine shows a lot of wear from just a few uses. For occasional home use, that's fine, but for pro use this wouldn't last more than a few months until you'd be welding and grinding on it to repair it.

 

[tak1313]

I have that and it's just ok. Well, it works where it fits, but it's not very durable.

I'm just a home DIYer and have had several applications where it wasn't wide enough- as simple as it is, they really need to make multiple fork widths. Maybe they do now, but not when I bought it several years ago. The main issue with it is that it appears to be just mild steel- mine shows a lot of wear from just a few uses. For occasional home use, that's fine, but for pro use this wouldn't last more than a few months until you'd be welding and grinding on it to repair it.

What brand is yours - so I at least know not to get that brand if I decide to try it. There are various "brands," so I suspect it goes with variation in quality of the tool. For example, I remember seeing a Matco branded one.

Then there is this version by Steck called the "Axle Popper II." It's made in the USA and is even made to use in an air hammer.

 

[Steve_P]

What brand is yours - so I at least know not to get that brand if I decide to try it. There are various "brands," so I suspect it goes with variation in quality of the tool. For example, I remember seeing a Matco branded one.

Then there is this version by Steck called the "Axle Popper II." It's made in the USA and is even made to use in an air hammer.

Not sure of the brand, there are no markings on it, but I'd bet that most of the ones that look like your original picture are the same and just rebranded- like so much else. I looked in my Amazon purchase history and couldn't find it, but when I was on Amazon I did a search and most of the reviews for sets like that are ~4.5*. For $25 to $40 for the non-Steck ones, I'd just get the ABN one today for $28 since it has a lot of reviews and 4.5*. These all appear the same, and the set I have is water jet or laser cut from what appears to be mild steel plate. I don't know what I paid for it when I bought mine, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was more than what they're selling for now, since there are so many apparent rebranders, which drives the price down (as we all know). If I paid $40 for it, I'd give it 4*. It does work well if it fits, but if you were pulling axles almost daily, you'd be repairing it occasionally. Which for the cost is acceptable, I guess. But for another $10 for better material and heat treat, you could get something 5X better.

I looked at the Matco, and it looks the same as the rest of them; Matco doesn't mention anything about alloy steel, so I'd just assume it's the same, and the 2-3X markup is the typical tool truck markup.

I looked at that Axle Popper II at some point, but there were several reviews stating that it broke on the weld. Something like this really needs to be one piece, like the ball joint type pickle forks for air hammers; all of this stuff should really be something like 4140, or at least 1040, and moderately hardened to something like RC 35.