Extractor for 1-1/2 PVC ******

[seagull369]

I was screwing in a 1-1/2" PVC plastic ****** into a return line on an in-ground pool today and the darn thing snapped right off leaving just the threads behind, which are now stuck inside its mated fitting, Roaming the aisles at Home Depot tonight, I picked up a tub drain extractor, which looked like it might stand a chance of working on that size pipe- that is if it weren't so stubby, so barely tapered and didn't have flutes that looked kinda "meh."

Was wondering if you guys might have another option that might not break the bank for me in case this tool doesn't work out tomorrow. I was attempting to blow water out of the line when I was threading the ****** in and now that it broke off I can't do squat with it 'til I get this thing patched.

 

[humber2]

I’d try to find a large bolt and two nuts to try.

Tap in the head of the bolt with the two nuts locked on to unscrew the stub.

YMMV

 

[Jlarson]

Usually with plastic we carefully cut till you just about get threads in a couple places with a saw blade then just pop them out with a small chisel/hammer.

 

[quickfarms]

Usually with plastic we carefully cut till you just about get threads in a couple places with a saw blade then just pop them out with a small chisel/hammer.

I do the same thing with steel pipe and have yet to have a leak on house stuff

just go slow and stop as soon as you touch the threads

with pvc a screwdriver and needle nose pliers replace the hammer and chisel

 

[Jlarson]

Steel I'll use a straight up sawzall and peel the ****** out with the air hammer but then again we're usually doing 2"+ stuff.

 

[KnurledNut]

Schedule 40 (white) or 80 (gray)?
I would try to find a fitting to glue inside it.

Perhaps a socket bushing:

 

[toplessHO]

Usually with plastic we carefully cut till you just about get threads in a couple places with a saw blade then just pop them out with a small chisel/hammer.

I would add that cutting it in 2 places makes it easier to remove as suggested rather than just one

 

[rlitman]

Schedule 40 (white) or 80 (gray)?
I would try to find a fitting to glue inside it.

Perhaps a socket bushing:

While the idea of gluing something in there is tempting, it runs the risk of gluing the threads together too.

I'd use a heat gun (probably one of my small ones, so as not to damage what's behind the ******) until the ****** gets soft, and then crush it inwards with a blunt slotted screwdriver until it can be pulled with pliers. Have a fresh ****** handy to GENTLY put into the hot female side as it cools, so that it cools without being deformed out of round.

 

[RTM]

I would add that cutting it in 2 places makes it easier to remove as suggested rather than just one

When I do this, I take cuts less than 90 degrees apart. A neighbor taught me to do it once, at 180 degrees. He felt pretty stupid when he needed a third cut. We laughed hard.

 

[toplessHO]

When I do this, I take cuts less than 90 degrees apart. A neighbor taught me to do it once, at 180 degrees. He felt pretty stupid when he needed a third cut. We laughed hard.

I should have added that. take a pie cut and pop that little piece out,then the larger piece will actually unscrew with fingers

 

[PoorUB]

Yep, a couple cuts with a hacksaw blade close togather, careful to not got too deep and pop out the small piece and twist out the lever overs.

 

[seagull369]

Firstly, thank you all for the suggestions. As far as my problem goes, I probably should have mentioned the fitting broke off under water,,, very cold water and I can only keep my hand in there literally for a few seconds at a time. Using a hacksaw/gluing or heat gunning is, unfortunately, out of the question because of that. Draining water to drop the level isn't practical either, since there'd be a lot to siphon and the fitting is some ways down there.

I tried my tub drain extractor idea that I mentioned earlier but, as suspected, it just wasn't tapered down enough to get a good bite on the material. After doing some google image searching, I found an interesting extractor- a bit reminiscent of a tailpipe expander- except the thread are reversed, so turning the nut counter-clockwise causes it's shell to expand and grab onto the thing you wanna unscrew (see pic). I found Home Depot carries it online and just am waiting for it to come in.

If worse comes to worse, I might just get the shovel out and start digging down to where the return line meets that fitting on the outside of the pool, cut the line. then throw an expandable plug on the pool end to keep the water in. I don't want the water in the return line freezing up and possibly breaking it somewhere, as there'd be about 30ft of it I'd have to dig up.

 

[Tools4Me]

Hacksaw is the cheapest way, but like you said you are working in very cold water so you want it done as fast as possible. The tool you ordered might work well. I have never used one myself, but it looks like it has potential.

A more versatile option would be a Ridgid 31405 (model 342) internal pipe wrench. They come with 5 different steps for internal grabbing of 1-2" trade sized pipe. Pick the step size that works best for the ID of the pipe you want to grab. Pop the center shaft out by hand and flip it to the other side to switch to the other side's knurled steps.

You can usually find them much cheaper used on CL or ebay. They have been around for many years.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015B9SF6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[cad70]

For small brass tubing that has broken off at the threads, I have used the square, tapered end of a normal size file, and tap it in to "lock" into the broken piece. Then use a wrench or crescent to turn the file and it spun right out..... Just an analogy to get the thoughts going.

 

[rlitman]

...As far as my problem goes, I probably should have mentioned the fitting broke off under water,,, very cold water and I can only keep my hand in there literally for a few seconds at a time...

Yeah, you probably should have led with that.

Actually, underwater might be better for gluing. Applied dry, PVC cement runs the risk of wicking into the threads and turning a problem into a disaster. There are numerous underwater adhesives that could help, and you have far less risk of ruining the threads.

The ****** extractor is probably too small, but they do make 1.5" internal pipe wrenches and you could wear arm length gloves. A thin arm length waterproof glove with just a thin cotton glove underneath should give you plenty of insulation so long as you don't allow water inside.

RIDGID 2 in. Internal Wrench for Closet Spuds, Bath, Basin/Sink Strainers or Install/Extracting 1 - 2 in. Nipples 31405 - The Home Depot

Visit The Home Depot to buy RIDGID Model 342 Internal Wrench 31405

www.homedepot.com

 

[KnurledNut]

Actually, underwater might be better for gluing. Applied dry, PVC cement runs the risk of wicking into the threads and turning a problem into a disaster. There are numerous underwater adhesives that could help, and you have far less risk of ruining the threads.

Ive heard Christys Red Hot Pool Pro works underwater.

 

[shawhite]

I have used these in the past with good results. You will have to find a way to drive it out of the water since the water is too cold.

Pipe Extractors | RIDGID Tools

RIDGID® pipe extractors make easy work of removing broken threaded ends of pipe, pipe plugs & fittings. Available for schedule 40 & 80 pipe. Shop now.

www.ridgid.com

 

[seagull369]

Thanks for the additional feedback and links to the tools. I do like that Ridgid 342 model.

I'm still waiting for the tool I ordered to come in at HD. Water in the line will probably have frozen by the time it comes in (the high tomorrow is s'posed to be 17 degrees). The hose used is flexible PVC and some cursory googling shows it seems to withstand water freezing within it, tho the rigid fittings attached to it may not. If that's true, then it's no biggie.