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Extreme corroded aluminum structural repair

zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
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Ugh, had to put on the washing machine repair hat again this weekend. :mad: Always something with this machine. Washing machine in question is a GE front loader model WBVH. They have a well known issue for the drum support "spider" to corrode, fail and the replacement part which is only sold as an assembly of course being ~1/2 price of a new machine. If the owner has to pay for labor on top it will exceed the value of the machine.

What happens is the cast aluminum hub that supports the drum corrodes, thins away then finally breaks. Causing the drum to float around radially independent of the bearing supported drive shaft. The steel shaft pictured is the main drive shaft that gets supported by 2 bearings. I THINK it is a press fit into the aluminum hub. The hub in turn then bolts to the steel wash drum.

Everything else in the washer works like it should. Actually I just put parts into it back in the fall. Replaced the drive pulley and rebuilt the circuit board, for its annual maintenance. :rolleyes:

Here is a link that may show a better image of how it all goes together.

http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/attachment.php?attachmentid=721&d=1195760696
http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/2077-Tub-spider-corrosion-breakage?p=52880#post52880

Any suggestions for repair would be very much appreciated. Or been there done that advice. The inner circle hub is cracked from the outer 3 spoke hub. I'm contemplating making up a welded steel hub, but I'm pretty much up the creek at this point. I'll try to bead blast it tomorrow and see what all is below the loose corrosion :beer:
 

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ADSR

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Any option to throw it out and buy one off Craigslist? That aluminum looks done as hell.
 
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zkling

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Any option to throw it out and buy one off Craigslist? That aluminum looks done as hell.

:lol: It's an option but not a favorable one, I have a sinking feeling you are correct. It's just a bit painful to toss a machine that is otherwise in good condition. Usually this is the failure method, so this part used off a donor machine is pretty much N/A. Machine is 7 years old.
 

rsanter

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And how hard is it going to be to fab one out of aluminum plate or out of steel?
If it was me that's the route I would be going. You still have enough of,the original part to get a pattern off of.
Do you,own the home? Do you have a home warranty?
That's the other route, all my appliances are covered under the home warranty.

Have you proved the part on eBay? I have seen big savings from replacement parts off the web verses the local shop

Bob
 

ilovevocs

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Toledo, Ohio
Could you use aluminum and create a hammer form out of 3/4" plywood. Anneal the sheet and pound the edges over the buck to create the shape? If your not familiar with this technique I'll try to post more info.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

brianpgriset

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If you use aluminum for the repair, be sure to electrically isolate the aluminum from the steel parts. Looks like you have a galvanic corrosion cell there:thumbup:.

Surprised the manufacturer didn't catch this.
 

PLOWJEEP

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I just put $525 worth of parts into the same machine. Mine are built in with a counter over them. The new machines are all taller. These machines spin at a high rpm. The new assembly is the only way to go. Good luck, Brian
 

theoldwizard1

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If you use aluminum for the repair, be sure to electrically isolate the aluminum from the steel parts. Looks like you have a galvanic corrosion cell there:thumbup:.

Surprised the manufacturer didn't catch this.

This has been an ongoing problem for a number of years !

First, can you remove the "spider" assembly from the drum ? Some appear to be welded. Most are bolted or screwed.

I would definitely look into fabing a replacement, possibly out of of stainless.
 

djjsr

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I think you have a leak somewhere. Soapy water is caustic and caustic solutions are very corrosive to aluminum.

I own 16 front loading machines (Laundromat) and I've seen what can go wrong. If you attempt a repair, keep in mind that front loading machines create a LOT of G forces when they spin. Anything that is weak will break. Anything that is out of balance will cause the machine to shake (sometimes violently) and eventually wear out the bearings.

I advise against trying to repair that spider. Buy a new one and fix the leak, or scrap it.

jmo
 

buening

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I think you have a leak somewhere. Soapy water is caustic and caustic solutions are very corrosive to aluminum.


jmo

I believe the spiders are submerged in the water. I too think it is a combination of caustic water and aluminum causing the corrosion.

It appears the spiders are bolted to the outer flange of the tub. If you do make your own, be very careful on locating the shaft in the spider to ensure it is centered and the spider balanced. I'm not sure how the bearing is housed, so machining the bearing seat in the spider may be the hardest part of the job.
 
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zkling

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Thanks for the suggestions. I've been calling and searching to no avail to find just the part I need. They only want to sell the entire drum assembly for ~$400, which I just don't think is a economically sensible solution.

I just put $525 worth of parts into the same machine. Mine are built in with a counter over them. The new machines are all taller. These machines spin at a high rpm. The new assembly is the only way to go. Good luck, Brian

Misery loves company eh. :beer: After quite a bit of research it seems this a very well known issue. I like how they changed the warranty for the drum from 10 years to 1 year after they found out about the problem. I am not going to put any more than ~$150 in this machine. I don't understand why they don't sell just the spider, well I do ($), but it just frustrates me. The machine also seems to eat drive pulleys every ~3 years and has had quite a few board issues. The board issues are usually just a 50¢ surface mount switch, but still.

I believe the spiders are submerged in the water. I too think it is a combination of caustic water and aluminum causing the corrosion.

It appears the spiders are bolted to the outer flange of the tub. If you do make your own, be very careful on locating the shaft in the spider to ensure it is centered and the spider balanced. I'm not sure how the bearing is housed, so machining the bearing seat in the spider may be the hardest part of the job.

You are correct the spider is submerged at all times in the washing solution, which is usually high PH and very caustic to aluminum. That is what I'm trying to figure out now about how to remove and reuse the shaft.

I think you have a leak somewhere. Soapy water is caustic and caustic solutions are very corrosive to aluminum.

I own 16 front loading machines (Laundromat) and I've seen what can go wrong. If you attempt a repair, keep in mind that front loading machines create a LOT of G forces when they spin. Anything that is weak will break. Anything that is out of balance will cause the machine to shake (sometimes violently) and eventually wear out the bearings.

I advise against trying to repair that spider. Buy a new one and fix the leak, or scrap it.

jmo

On this machine the seal is actually behind the shaft on the spider, so the spider is in contact with the washing solution at all times. It all fits in a plastic tub that gets bolted together. Since you are familiar with washing machines is there a brand you recommend?

This has been an ongoing problem for a number of years !

First, can you remove the "spider" assembly from the drum ? Some appear to be welded. Most are bolted or screwed.

I would definitely look into fabing a replacement, possibly out of of stainless.

Yes, I got it out of the drum without any issues. Hand impact driver and a few soft face hammer taps got it loose without any damage to the drum.

If you use aluminum for the repair, be sure to electrically isolate the aluminum from the steel parts. Looks like you have a galvanic corrosion cell there:thumbup:.

Surprised the manufacturer didn't catch this.

I think the issues in this case is more caused by the corrosive nature of the washing solution that it is submerged in at all times. Galvanic may play a part too, but I think the heavy hitter is the environment. Agree, well if you knew GE appliance they ain't big on heavy thinking. I think they should have at least put a thick annodizing coating on the part. That is what a few other companies have done. The best part is that they actually rewrote the manual to limit the warranty after they realized they had this issue.
 
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djjsr

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Since you are familiar with washing machines is there a brand you recommend?

Can't help much with advice for a residential front loader. Mine are commercial Dexter machines and way too expensive for home use.

Unfortunately, I've heard of similar problems with several brands of front loaders, so the last time we replaced our washer at home I stayed with a top loading machine. I found a new old model Maytag that's much better than the new models.

Front loading machines are great though. They do a better job of washing and use less water. Reliability is a crapshoot.
 

PLOWJEEP

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My house is only ten years old, Yet I have had to do expensive repairs to all of my major applances other than our range. I bought the parts wholesale and did the work myself or it would have cost more than a new washer. Even than it would have been cheaper and a lot quicker than remodeling my laundry room and buying a new matching washer and dryer.
They have all of the parts available for these non current machines, but they are so expensive that most times it makes more sense to upgrade to a new machine. Brian
 

theoldwizard1

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Unfortunately, I've heard of similar problems with several brands of front loaders, so the last time we replaced our washer at home I stayed with a top loading machine. I found a new old model Maytag that's much better than the new models.

Many of the well know brands, including Maytag, are owned by Whirlpool. The are all the same under the skin.
 
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zkling

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Just to close this. Here is a pic of the part after a pressure wash and 90psi blow gun dry. Uhm, yea all those holes shouldn't be there. :( After taking measurements and realizing that the hub was 3D and thus a pain to fab in SS tubing. I decided to cut my losses and found a nice, scratch and dent unit brand new for just about the same as the parts would have been. :thumbup:

To anyone else that may own one of these machines, I wish you the best of luck and FYI you may be on borrowed time. Appears this is a known issue with these machines and the parts $ alone greatly exceeds the value of the machine. Yet other manufactures sell the needed part separately, GE only offers the entire assembly. :mad: May yours last long than mine did. :beer:

My favorite for appliance parts is:

http://www.repairclinic.com/

Good luck with your repair or replacement.

Thanks, unfortunately I'm familiar with that site. The part I needed from them lists at $543.75 + S&H, because it is such a large item. :shocking: Why they don't sell the hub separate, IDK. :dunno:

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Inner-Tub/WH45X10079/1264717?modelNumber=WBVH6240FW
 

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djjsr

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I hate to see corrosion like that. Apparently the designer wasn't familiar with the effects of some chemicals on aluminum. It would have been pretty easy to coat that part with something when it was manufactured to provide some corrosion resistance.
 

kbs2244

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You might want to do some inquiries on some sites where guys do backyard casting.
They may be able to use what you have as a pattern and cast a new one.
I am sure it would take some cleaning up machining.
You will just have to do some “is it worth it” soul searching.
 
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