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Extremely Cold Temperature Furnace Tips

Ohmthis

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Jan 20, 2013
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3,006
Location
Outside of Louisville KY
Here's a couple more for the season. If the furnace locks out on a pressure switch and the openings of the pipes are fine, look at the trap. if its too full look for a blockage on the drain. If that is ok, look at the tubes that come off of the draft box. I have seen some frozen to the switches. Also if the furnace fires and only runs for a little bit, check the flame rod. After cleaning it (I like to use a flannel shirt type material or a dollar bill), check all of the grounds for looseness and corrosion. The signal goes through the ground to the board as a micro amperage.
 
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Dagny

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Jul 25, 2014
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Northern Wi.
Follow the installation manual for both pipes. The furnaces we sell allow you to take combustion air from the basement if it is big enough has some minor drawbacks but never ices up.
 
OP
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gahrajmahal

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Dec 12, 2008
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Cincinnati, Ohio
Bump for 2019 and the current cold snap.

I was surprised that I could see the Photo Bucket photos! If you cannot see them I apologize. I may reload them to the GJ server if enough of you let me know.

Thanks again to all who contributed their knowledge to this post originally. I hope that everyone will have a working furnace during this 2019 cold snap!
 

Jazz1

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Jan 3, 2016
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4,184
Location
Thunder Bay On.
check exhaust stack on roof. That gets covered furnace wil shut off. I’ve cleared mine twice this winter. I should look into whether PVC stack could be extended a foot or two. It’s currently 2’ where it exits roof
 

FTG-05

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Oct 11, 2012
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Location
TN
Here are my two tips to contribute to this thread:

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Sevenhills1952

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Aug 30, 2018
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1,750
Location
Virginia
Here's a gas furnace tip that I hope may help someone. We have three propane furnaces, each has a small sump pump that pumps condensation outside. The hose is like large aquarium tubing about 1/2" diameter. It has to be angled up where it goes outside so after it pumps whatever water left flows back inside where it's warm. Sometimes dirt dobbers will clog the end.
But one would freeze no matter what. So since it was close to the furnace exhaust PVC pipe I drilled it at an angle, then put a 1/2" length of copper tubing through...about 2ft long...then JB WELD around it, hose to it. Copper tube sticks out exhaust about an inch. It works perfect because the exhaust although just warm is enough to keep from freezing.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk
 

Jim greengo

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Sep 3, 2018
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Behind my house
Just went through a 3 week long ordeal with my barely 5 year old Lennox furnace.....I noticed it was not coming on at random times when the tstat called for heat. Checked all the usual suspects, couldn't find anything wrong and just wrote it off as a fluke occurrence (only happened two times over the course of two weeks). Then it started to get more frequent, but thankfully it was still warm outside (40-50 degrees). We have an annual service plan so I put in a service call (no charge). Tech #1 comes out and checks all the same easy stuff as I did and says he can't find anything wrong (problem was very intermittent and I couldn't "force" it to fault, either). Day later, happens again, so same tech comes back out, does some more checking and turns the fan speed up a tad thinking it may be going off on overheat, says call back if that doesn't fix it. It doesn't. Tech #2 now comes out, spends about 3 hours and still can't find anything wrong. Then he says to replace the circuit board as it may be bad......$260 part (not covered under service plan, but I agreed). Swaps board, everything runs great, he leaves. Next day, it craps out again. I install a new tstat on the wall just for giggles, doesn't fix it either. Tech #3 comes out, says he's the tech they send when no one else can figure something out. Nice guy, burned out hippie type, but knows his stuff. Cuts a huge gash in his hand while working on the unit and informs me he's a hemophiliac, and asks me for a bandaid....I gave him half a box. Eventually he diagnoses it as a bad flame sensor, and replaces it (part covered under plan), and I've had heat ever since.

All told, I lost about 2.5 days of work total, but it was worth it now considering it was -1 here last night. I still have the old circuit board (they offered to put it back in and take the new one back for credit), but I figured it would be best to just keep the old one as a (working) backup spare JIC the new one shits the bed at o-dark-thirty some cold winter night.

Jeff

A bad flame sensor is usually pretty easy to diagnose,sounds like you're dealing with parts changers.:wtf:
 

LS6 Tommy

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Dec 27, 2013
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Northern NJ
I can't count the numbner of residential No Heat calls I've done where the emergency switch was off...

Tommy
 

mjeff87

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Jan 22, 2010
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2,745
Location
Richmond, VA
A bad flame sensor is usually pretty easy to diagnose,sounds like you're dealing with parts changers.:wtf:

It wasn't the sensor part of the flame sensor, it ended up being a nick in the wire that was causing a random/intermittent fault.

Funny thing, the furnace just started acting funny again last week (wasn't coming on when the t-stat called for heat, eventually it would and run fine). Knowing this cold was coming I wasted no time calling my service company. Tech came out, cleaned everything and didn't even think about it, put a new flame sensor on it. It's been running fine ever since. However, in the process, he noticed the condensate collection box was leaking (totally unrelated). It had a crack in it, so that got replaced. I still have the old one sitting here on my desk at work, I'm going to try to repair it with some epoxy and keep it as a spare, just in case. I have a thread about that going in the HVAC subforum right now, lol.
 
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Jim greengo

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Sep 3, 2018
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Behind my house
check exhaust stack on roof. That gets covered furnace wil shut off. I’ve cleared mine twice this winter. I should look into whether PVC stack could be extended a foot or two. It’s currently 2’ where it exits roof

If you're going to vent a 90plus through the roof in a cold climate I'd treat it like we do plumbing vents around here.
Increase it to 4" a foot before the roof roof sheathing and extend it above snow line depending on your area.
That should keep it from icing over.
 
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Jim greengo

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Behind my house
It wasn't the sensor part of the flame sensor, it ended up being a nick in the wire that was causing a random/intermittent fault.

Funny thing, the furnace just started acting funny again last week (wasn't coming on when the t-stat called for heat, eventually it would and run fine). Knowing this cold was coming I wasted no time calling my service company. Tech came out, cleaned everything and didn't even think about it, put a new flame sensor on it. It's been running fine ever since. However, in the process, he noticed the condensate collection box was leaking (totally unrelated). It had a crack in it, so that got replaced. I still have the old one sitting here on my desk at work, I'm going to try to repair it with some epoxy and keep it as a spare, just in case. I have a thread about that going in the HVAC subforum right now, lol.
It will have the same symptoms though,from there it's just a matter of following it.
 

Showkey

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Wausau WI
If you're going to vent a 90plus through the roof in a cold climate I'd treat it like we do plumbing vents around here.
Increase it to 4" a foot before the roof roof sheathing and extend it above snow line depending on your area.
That should keep it from icing over.


Even then there can be issues with accumulated ice and melt issues ..........my radon vent through the roof created a huge ice dam. Moved it to the wall vent was the cure.
 

yeldogt

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Jan 2, 2012
Messages
18,184
Previous owners bought a fancy Carrier Infinity furnace that's all electronics and sensor driven, I'm quaking in my boots fearing the day when one sensor fails and I'll be hemorrhaging cash.

They have 10 year .. all of mine have been very reliable.
 

yeldogt

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Jan 2, 2012
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18,184
The exhaust should not have a screen -- no obstructions .... also very important with a gas dryer.

The best type are the concentric -- they are often not used because they add $100 bucks .... but they eliminate the problems
 

Jim greengo

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Behind my house

marineman

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Jun 14, 2010
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Wild Rose, WI
Our furnace will be of drinking age coming up soon and even at -30 was able to keep up and shut off from time to time. I had a pressure switch fail a couple days before the cold spell but had a spare one on hand. I'm taking notes about all the other parts I should keep on hand, now it's going to become a challenge how long can I keep this thing running.
 

Crazyjake8493

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Sep 26, 2014
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Location
Upstate NY
For anyone still flipping through this thread, you do not want any sort of grid or screen over the PVC intake or exhaust of a furnace like this. Even without snow, the condensation will freeze up and plug it over time. No reason to have any restriction on there.

If you're worried about bees or something in the summer, you could put a cap or sleeve over them, and leave a note on the thermostat or furnace shut off to remember to take them off before turning the furnace on. I've never covered mine even in the offseason and have had no issues with bugs or animals.
 

LX-Markham

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Apr 27, 2013
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Location
Markham, Ont.
Bump for 2019 and the current cold snap.
how did I miss this thread!?

Some great tips in here.

Our furnace acted up last week. Would lite, run, then shut off a few minutes later. After checking all the usual suspects (cleaned the flame sensor, replaced the air filter, checked the t-stat and the on/off switch, checked the intake/exhaust) it turned out to be a plugged condensate trap. In retrospect, should have know right away because you could hear "gurgling" in the exhaust.

lennox-61m35-condensate-drain-trap-30_3235a907-7d37-475e-a0f3-f6557a694e0a_large.jpg


After cleaning that out, we found a secondary blockage in the drain. We recently renovated the basement and in the process we relocated the drain line that ran above the floor slab to the floor drain, and connected the line to the under-slab line that the builder had installed. Unfortunately it terminated right next to the basement wall. Long story short: we ended up with a short section of our drain line in an uninsulated section of the wall and it froze.


The good part of this story is I now know a lot more about my furnace than I used to.
 

bonneyman

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Apr 22, 2010
Messages
8,760
Location
Desert SW
I can't count the numbner of residential No Heat calls I've done where the emergency switch was off...

Tommy

Yep. I have a speech I go through when folks call me. Check this, check that, is this light on, is the filter clear, etc. Many times it solves their problem.

Which has revealed my problem - fixing no heat calls for free and not making any money. :lol_hitti
 
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