EZ-Out Stories and Methods

[milkovich]

Buicks=broken exhaust bolts... 100% of the time.

I go straight for the left handed drill bits. It's not even worth the time messing around with any other method. 90% of the time, the threads come out and only need to be chased, the other 10% a tap cleans them out.

In your case the EZ out is going to destroy the drills, but I would grab a 90 degree drill and sacrifice a handfull of decent cobalt/ti drills (MADE IN USA) rather than pull the motor. That or get in there with a die grinder and get the tool steel out with a carbide bur, then go to the left handed drills to get the bolt/plug out.

I wouldn't mess with a dremel at this point unless you're getting paid by the hour.

 

[Mickey O]

I had one job that was just removing studs on a flange, that broke at the flange (these were the large flanges on the steam lines going to an electrical generator in a power plant). On those we used portable mills that were mounted to the flange , and located with a dial indicator, then mill flat what's left of the stud, then locate the center of the stud and progressively drill into the studs until you get to the point you can peel out the remaining parts of the stud threads, 3 ten hour shifts to do one flange but it was still much cheaper and faster than replacing it.

For everyday broken bolts I prefer the square ez outs, Craftsman has/had them, Proto has them as well (I'll post pics when I get the camera and run across them, I was going to start a thread about them). I used them on a daily basis at one job and they were the best I've found.

The hardest thing ez out wise I've run across is broken taps, especially in aluminum, I've got no good method for getting them out, it seems there's an unspecified amount of time, a lot of time, that it takes to get them out. I wonder if using a little anti-seize on the tap while tapping would help, anyone know?

 

[sputnikv8]

Or I could just leave it alone, but I can not drain the water jacket with the broken plug stuck there.

I do have a dremel.

You really need to be able to drain the block to properly winterize it and you are right, a torch down in the bilge compartment would be a big no-no.

Sorry, I don't have anything *positive* to add, but, I'm following this thread with interest though as I'd like to hear of any tricks.

 

[lwlobo]

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned my favorite method. This works especially well for stripped screw heads and smaller bolts, but it can work on bigger stuff too.

Take a small cutoff wheel on the dremel, and cut a straight notch in whatever is left (broken bolt, stripped screw head, ez out, etc). It will now look like a slotted screw.

Make the notch fit the biggest straight bit you have for your hand held impact (depending on the size of the bolt). Set the impact and bit into the slot, and SMACK! The hand impact tools develop incredible torque while pushing in on the joint and fastener. I've gotten so many things unstuck this way, but you need room to cut the slot with the dremel, get the impact in place, and hit it with a hammer. It also doesn't work for stuff that's broken down inside a hole.

Otherwise, carbide burr, reverse drill bits, chisels, heat, and EDM in as a last resort.

Good luck!

 

[gahrajmahal]

After the hardened easy out / tap is broken in the hole I have had good luck with an air chisel with the punch bit installed. A few short bursts usually loosens it up enough you can grip it with needle nose or side cutters and back it out. If it is a small easy out a hardened punch & hammer will work.

 

[Tom2]

I deal with a lot of broken bolts..

I used to helicoil just bout all of them, especially if there wasn't enough space to get a real solid grip from vice grips.

Lately though I've been using a propane torch with WD-40. Since using that, I rarely have to helicoil anything sitcking out.

EZ Outs are pretty pointless. The square type are stronger though - I have had good luck using them to remove broken spark plugs. Never broke one that large. So they do work great for that.

I tried heat + candle wax..WD40 seemed to work better.


I also recently bought a dremel tool to cut a notch in the top of the broken bolt to fit a screwdriver in. Used the method once - worked perfect! Still had to apply heat + WD40 - but works excellent if the bolt is just barely sticking up and you can't get vice grips on it.

 

[Auzivision]

I’ve had little luck if any with EZ Outs for broken fasteners, but will always give them a try after heat, some hammer tapping and a little Kroil. Usually though, I end using a drill and a tap.

However, I’ve had great luck with Aero Kroil for really stubborn fasteners before they break. I prefer it to PB blaster. Anyone else around here try this stuff?

http://www.kanolabs.com/

 

[Auzivision]

how would you remove a cast iron 3/8 inch plug from a water jacket in a block. The square top of the plug cracked off leaving a mostly flat surface. I was thinking you could braze a nut or bolt onto this. Or perhaps drill into this and then braze a bolt into it. What dummy decided to make a cast iron plug instead of steel?

The block is currently in a boat, the plug is low down on the block at an angle and drains the water jacket. Since it is a tight fit and in a boat I am kind of leery of the torch idea. All I can think is to loosen the mounts and rock the motor over on it side and hope it does not crush anything. Then I could drill into it and work with it.

Or I could just leave it alone, but I can not drain the water jacket with the broken plug stuck there.

I do have a dremel.

Personally, I wouldn’t mess with a frozen bolt down low in the bilge when other methods could work for getting water out of boat engine like a compressor to blow it out or a vacuum to **** it out.

That and/or force some antifreeze into the system which isn't bad idea since you might not ever get all the water out.

Just a couple ideas to think about.

 

[jadon]

This sounds kind of "hackish" but of all the easyouts I've tried my favorite is the tang of a large file cut down to about 4 inches. It works like the square style easyouts but for some reason better. I think because it tapers wider at the top than the easyouts so you can really smack it into your effed up fastener. Once its wedged in and you got some heat into there, get a crescent hold your breath and ease 'er out.

 

[specialk]

What a timely post- was tapping a hole on the exhaust ports of a motorcycle motor this week and broke a tap off in one of the holes. Due to the motor still being in the bike, it was impossible to get anything larger than a small drill bit or a Dremel tool with a flex shaft at the tap without having to drop the motor. After grinding the protruding piece of the tap off flush, I used one of these:

http://waltontools.com/products/extractr.htm

Bought a used set for cheap off of ebay so I wasn't out much if it didn't work. Didn't read the instructions at first mad and ended up bending one of the fingers. Read the instructions )) the second time around, and with the help of a lot of PB Blaster, the tap came right out!! Seems like the key is reading the instructions carefully, and working it out bit-by-bit with a LOT of patience.

My experience is with a smaller tap than what you guys are probably using, but I thought I'd post up as I'm happy that it worked and that I didn't have to drop the motor!

 

[shocksystems]

What a timely post- was tapping a hole on the exhaust ports of a motorcycle motor this week and broke a tap off in one of the holes. Due to the motor still being in the bike, it was impossible to get anything larger than a small drill bit or a Dremel tool with a flex shaft at the tap without having to drop the motor. After grinding the protruding piece of the tap off flush, I used one of these:

http://waltontools.com/products/extractr.htm

Bought a used set for cheap off of ebay so I wasn't out much if it didn't work. Didn't read the instructions at first mad and ended up bending one of the fingers. Read the instructions )) the second time around, and with the help of a lot of PB Blaster, the tap came right out!! Seems like the key is reading the instructions carefully, and working it out bit-by-bit with a LOT of patience.

My experience is with a smaller tap than what you guys are probably using, but I thought I'd post up as I'm happy that it worked and that I didn't have to drop the motor!

Very cool. Never seen this product before.

Cheers!

Jim

 

[tristanp]

i use 5% cobalt hss drills and easy outs, loctite spray freeze helps loosen it up if it wont budge. the 5% cobalts will also drill easy outs

 

[GaryRoushkolb]

This is a different take. I use my Tig welder and weld a nub on top of the broken bolt, or easy out, then squirt some penatrant liquid on the bolt, then use a vicegrip to back it out. Heat from the weld on the bolt will cause the bolt to brake loose by shrinkage when cooled with the penatrant. If possible drill a hole in the center of the bolt to give expansion room. The best penatrant I have found is a mix of acetone and ATF. Some times the nub twists off and you have to start over but after several times it'll always work.

 

[diyer999]

I've seen those mini die grinders. I have often wondered what kind of bits they take and where to get them. I have not found any bits that are safely rated for 70k rpms. Reading about that tool also tells it is mainly for working with dies. But failed to mention the bits material or where to get them. So, knowing that dies are carbide, I can only assume that the bits must be made of industrial diamonds imho. But please, tell me what you can.

Thanks in advance,
diyer999

 

[johnny1290]

Unfortunately I have a little something to contribute to this thread. I was just drilling out the bolts for the door hinges on my shoebox the other day when I got an ez out stuck in one. I thought no biggie, I'll yank it out right after I move the car to get some more room and in doing so shut the door on it and 'snap'! the ez out easily broke! F! So now I'm in the same boat of having to try to extract one of these damn things.

What I'm doing differently this time is using what I think is the appropriate drill. I *had* been using a 5/8" hammer drill with a keyless chuck. Not the right setup.

So I just bougth a dewalt 1/2" 800 rpm drill with a 7.6 amp motor and a Jacobs chuck, now *that* ought to help torque these daggone bolts out! Anyway that's what I'm hoping!

It just never occurred to me there was much difference in drills and speeds and whatnot, but of course its obvious in retrospect.

Can't ever have too many tools! ;-)

 

[nissan_crawler]

You guys really have that much trouble with extractors? I've used them succesfully many times. Although I like the other options being described.

Same here.

However, I’ve had great luck with Aero Kroil for really stubborn fasteners before they break. I prefer it to PB blaster. Anyone else around here try this stuff?

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Kroil is all I will use.

Unfortunately I have a little something to contribute to this thread. I was just drilling out the bolts for the door hinges on my shoebox the other day when I got an ez out stuck in one. I thought no biggie, I'll yank it out right after I move the car to get some more room and in doing so shut the door on it and 'snap'! the ez out easily broke! F! So now I'm in the same boat of having to try to extract one of these damn things.

What I'm doing differently this time is using what I think is the appropriate drill. I *had* been using a 5/8" hammer drill with a keyless chuck. Not the right setup.

So I just bougth a dewalt 1/2" 800 rpm drill with a 7.6 amp motor and a Jacobs chuck, now *that* ought to help torque these daggone bolts out! Anyway that's what I'm hoping!

It just never occurred to me there was much difference in drills and speeds and whatnot, but of course its obvious in retrospect.

Can't ever have too many tools! ;-)

I'm not getting what in the world you're doing. There should be no need for a hammer drill for any part of that operation.

Edit: I use this style extractor, not the long bastards:

 

[johnny1290]

Same here.



Kroil is all I will use.



I'm not getting what in the world you're doing. There should be no need for a hammer drill for any part of that operation.

Edit: I use this style extractor, not the long bastards:

Those are nice. Northern tool eh? I'll have to go look at em.

Oh the hammer drill works like a normal drill as well. I used it cuz that's what I had

Now I have that bad *** dewalt coming and I can't wait!

edit: Just had to mention the dewalt is awesome, doesn't bog in the least and just powers through the bolts with an ezout bit Bitchin!

 

[reddog289]

Now I am reminded of why my car has been sitting for 20 years, Broken oil pan bolts and broken ez outs.

 

[Grigg]

This is a different take. I use my Tig welder and weld a nub on top of the broken bolt, or easy out, then squirt some penatrant liquid on the bolt, then use a vicegrip to back it out. Heat from the weld on the bolt will cause the bolt to brake loose by shrinkage when cooled with the penatrant. ...Some times the nub twists off and you have to start over but after several times it'll always work.

I've removed countless broken fasteners with this method. It's my first choice, and fastest with smallest chance of messing stuff up, at least I think so.
Even if the bolt is broken off below flush you can build the pile of weld up above the surface where you can grab it. Even works upside down and sideways if you can't get the part to the welding table.

I've got some Hansen extractors like these
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008KISJ/?tag=atomicindus08-20
and if an easy out will work these have the best chance, but avoid using them if at all possible.
Only thing they are consistently good for is broken brass pipe fittings.

Grigg

 

[johnny1290]

Nice! I've tried theold weld a nut to the stripped bolthead method and gotten nada, althoiugh my welding has improved slightly since then so mayyybe I could do better

I never thought of just building up weld, but why not?!

I used my new drill and an easy out to drill out the broken ez out. I didn't have much time but it sure seemed to work.

One of the bolts I'd drilled but not quite enough just popped out with the dewalt and big ez out. Another spun the bolt and nut(bummer). A couple others just didn't get enough grip into the metal and drilled into it, but I only had one size left after losing/breaking the others lol

I'm pumped though, this thread has given me hope for doing the rest of the 20 plus door hinge bolts

I've got a welder, drill, air hammer, and torches, what could go wrong?!? ;-)

 

[eugz]

drill 1/8 hole, bash a hex allen key tech bit in thats abit larger.
use a ratchet screw driver and spanner for leverage

 

[e-tek]

Anyone have experience with these?

www.aldn.com

 

[Rentawrench]

Well I have not bought one YET but this will do what Ryan asked about First a BROKEN EZ out.

http://www.theoriginalrescuebit.com/