Fabrication Bench Build

[Damian_74]

G'day all, First post after a few years of lurking on here.
Thought that I would share my fabrication table build.
I've posted this over on ADV Rider so I sorry to any one that has read my ramblings before.

Must be getting old, sick of rolling around on the floor trying to jig up things.

Looked at lots of commercially available but all well out of my price range.

Time to build my own!

My first preference was for waterjet cutting - after visiting the local bloke and getting a quick quote I was taken back with the price.
Second choice was Laser cutting - not as clean but far cheaper.

Had a chat with Focus Laser in Brisbane and the did me a deal on some offcuts they had from another job that would suit my needs.

Ended up with a plate 1050 x 600 with 16mm holes cut every 100mm



Frame - 65 x 65 x 4 SHS

My floor is far from level so have made provision for 20mm levelling feet.





Jig up the frame



Rough fit up before final welding - levelling feet and casters to follow!

 

[Responder]

Welcome to the forum!

Nice score on that top. Looks like it will do the job nicely. Are you planning on adding any accessories to the table like a vice?

 

[Damian_74]

Hadn't planned on a vice, have another heavy bench with a 6" record vice fitted.

This bench is just for jigging and welding.

 

[MGibson]

Looks like a sturdy table. I was getting one made up with 100mm holes but I idealy wanted 50mm, the guy who was doing the cutting said it would be too weak.

 

[56rpm]

Kinda small table to put a vise on in my opinion.

 

[longlivepunk]

Very nice table! Are you going to tap the holes, or how do you plan to use them?

Also, VERY nice Canadian made Beach toolbox stack!!

 

[Damian_74]

The holes in the table top are for my cheap version of the Stronghand Tools system.

Plan to buy some cheap F clamps, cut the bottom off and weld on a 16mm spigot to suit the table holes. Inserta Clamp
Will hunt through their catalogue for other bits and pieces that I like - if I get too lazy the dimensions of my table should take their parts. Straight Edge Stops

The smaller table dimensions are just right so that I can access all sides and sit at it with my TIG and foot pedal - will mostly be used for smaller motorbike parts.

IF I do put on a vice, was thinking of cutting a plate to suit the hole pattern and bolt it down as a temporary vice fixing arrangement.

 

[Damian_74]

Very nice table! Are you going to tap the holes, or how do you plan to use them?

Also, VERY nice Canadian made Beach toolbox stack!!

Well spotted - must have bought those tool boxes over 20 years ago when I was an apprentice.

 

[Damian_74]

Waiting for my casters and levelling feet to arrive so started work on the clamps and stops.


Stops/ Spacers - 50mm Diameter x 25mm high (other sizes to follow)


Pins for F clamps - 25mm Bright bar stock slotted to fit the cut off clamps.


It's a start - more production needed!


Works well!

 

[nine4gmc]

I would have imagined laser cutting would be more expensive than water jetting, I have never priced either though. Great job on that table, I will be watching as I want to build one soon and I'm digging your DIY clamping!

 

[Thumper68]

Very nice setup.

I will be posting up the build of mine on Tuesday.

 

[Damian_74]

Not going as planned!

Happily turning bushes on my lathe, bits of metal flying left and right.

1200 RPM, auto feed cranked on for a final cut and part way through, the spindle starts to slow down?

WTF?????? Its only a light cut??????.....Back off the cross slide and hit the brake.....Spindle locked up!!!!!!!!!!!!

Drop it out of gear, drop the feed gearbox and can't turn the spindle...........all I can think is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

I bought the lathe new about 5 years ago from Hare and Forbes - L-336D DELUXE - Centre Lathe - I have not done a huge amount of work with it, 30 to 40 hrs at most, most of it light work in aluminium - but despite knowing better I never did get around to changing the gearbox oils - 25 years on the tools I should know better!

Popped the main gearbox top for a look - hhhmmmmmm - there is a heavy lacquer on all the gears and shafts - drained the oil and found a thick sludge on the bottom about 10mm think - managed to get my hand down into the sump and roll it up like a piece of carpet. In hindsight the gear selection had become stiff after it sat for a long time...............Should have seen this coming!







Have now got all the covers off and will attempt to kero wash all the corners that I can get too - can now turn all the shafts - when it all locked up couldn't feel any hot bearing and looking inside now nothing obvious...........thinking that I will clean the best I can, refill with new oil, run it for a bit and change the oil again..............Don't really have the time to change all the gearbox bearings at the moment!

 

[Damian_74]

OK - Lathe cleaned and repaired so back to the welding bench project.

After welding up the frame and had the top hog about 3mm. I had another look at my design? In hindsight, the braces that I cut at 45 deg aren't really needed and with all the extra welding, it pulled in that area. Not a huge issue as I assumed that I would have to slightly shim the top, it will just need a few more shims now!

Secured the top with 6 x 8mm counter sunk bolts for two reasons,
1/ So I can shim the top.
2/ At some future point if the top becomes too badly damaged I can turn it over and use the underside.

Now that I have me lathe up and working again I can continue on the fixture production but the bench is all finished.

Removed all the mill slag with a belt sander and polished it with a palm sander - finish came up well. Now have to remember to keep up the Canola oil to keep the rust and weld splatter under control.

The top ended up after shimming under 0.1 flat - very happy with that!

 

[kazlx]

I would have imagined laser cutting would be more expensive than water jetting, I have never priced either though. Great job on that table, I will be watching as I want to build one soon and I'm digging your DIY clamping!

The place I use, the hourly cost is the same. $150/hr. 1hr min usually. The laser is exponentially faster, but cutting 3/4" steel is pushing it. Anything more goes to their water jet. Water jets are horrifically slow for the most part. Don't get me wrong, they are cool as hell, but they are really, really slow compared to other methods.

IMO laser cuts are phenominal if the machine is set up correctly. The place I use occasionally really turns out great work and just charge straight by the hour. They actually prefer you to supply materials. Much sharper edge than my plasma . But then again, the plasma wasn't hundreds of thousands of dollars.

Nice job on the table, I really like it. Simple, but effective.

 

[Damian_74]

The place I use, the hourly cost is the same. $150/hr. 1hr min usually. The laser is exponentially faster, but cutting 3/4" steel is pushing it. Anything more goes to their water jet. Water jets are horrifically slow for the most part Don't get me wrong, they are cool as hell, but they are really, really slow.

IMO laser cuts are phenominal if the machine is set up correctly. The place I use occasionally turns out great work. Much sharper edge than my plasma . But then again, the plasma wasn't hundreds of thousands of dollars.

Nice job on the table, I really like it. Simple, but effective.

Kazlx - my little table is has nothing on you monster - that ground top is jaw dropping!

The walk in price from the local Water Jet cutter was over $400 - that didn't include the material cost!

I think that I struck it lucky with the Laser Cutter - he had some 16mm offcuts sitting around that I he wanted to move. Total price was $240 - cutting and material!

 

[Damian_74]

Cost. (Aust $)

Laser cut top 1050 x 600mm $240
Frame steel 65 x 65 x 4.0mm 8m length $125
Leveling Feet 20mm $100
Bolts and bits $50
Bench Total $515

50mm Round bar 0.25m $20
25mm Bright round bar 1m $25
F Clamps x4 $60
Clamp TOTAL $105


TOTAL $620

 

[kazlx]

Not too bad. Nice Job. $240 for that piece of steel with cutting seems like a good deal.

Thanks for the compliment on the table. It's been sold, but working on something similar.

 

[mrolds88]

Nice table, Damian! One question. The two bits that you show in a number of pics, What are they? The ones I am referring to are the round "pucks" with the drilled and tapped centers.

 

[1/2 Cup]

Top job Damien.

We just brought a H&F 410 for work and I am considering a 336 deluxe for my shed. In spite of your issue are reasonably happy with yours?

Regards

 

[Damian_74]

Nice table, Damian! One question. The two bits that you show in a number of pics, What are they? The ones I am referring to are the round "pucks" with the drilled and tapped centers.

Hi mrolds88,

The "Hockey Pucks" are the start (need to make lots more) of my stops and spacers for the fixture bench. Using the grid pattern in the table and the Pucks it makes it a lot easier to jig up.

Have a look at STRONGHAND TOOLS and you will get the idea.

 

[Damian_74]

Top job Damian.

We just brought a H&F 410 for work and I am considering a 336 deluxe for my shed. In spite of your issue are reasonably happy with yours?

Regards

G’day ½ Cup,

Overall I'm happy with the 336D (the oil issue was of my making).
I don’t think that it would stand up to working flat out in a fitting workshop but for my home machine shop, more than adequate.

Bad Points

•No swarf tray makes it a ****** to clean (I think on the new ones they have fitted one)

•The cross-slide DRO fitting isn’t the best – the chip guard was wider than it needed to be reducing travel if the tailstock and making oiling the bed ways impossible. Easy fix but annoying.

•Oil drain from the main gearbox is in a silly spot, makes a mess! – can I use that as an excuse for not changing the oil .

•Need more POWER – it is hard to come from the big 415v 3 phase lathe on the ship, taking 5mm cuts with blue chips flying over your shoulder to a 240V hobby lathe – have to work within its capabilities.

•Imperial Lead Screw – have to remember this when screw cutting – I almost exclusively work in metric, just have to remember not to disengage the thread chaser when you want to make a second cut on a metric thread – you have back the tool out and reverse the lathe.

•The angle scale on the compound slide is cheap and nasty – printed on a tin plate and riveted on.

Good Points

•Good speed range – needed when using tip tools.

•Love the Quick Change Toolpost – I think that it came with four tool holders. Bought a heap off ebay for ****** all. Now every cutting tool is mounted in a holder – once you have set all the tools up on centre - that is it - seconds to change between tools! And you can set the Zero for each one on the DRO, just scroll through as required.

•DRO – even if you have to remount some of the scales – the price difference between the 336 and the 336D is about $1300. With all the extras you get on the D, almost cheaper to just buy the 336D. I did fit a DRO to my mill from The DRO Store in Singapore. I think it was about $600AUD by the time I freighted it.

•Comes with a good light, coolant (although I have never used mine), lead screw cover, safety shield and stand.

•Foot Brake – essential if you are thread cutting to a shoulder - especially as it is a imperial lead screw.


Have you looked at the AL-960B?
Perhaps better quality coming from Taiwan?
Slightly more expensive but not as well equipped.
Has a slower speed that might be an issue when using tip tools?

Now that I have confused the issue for you - Enjoy!

Damian.

 

[dr_clyde]

Nice job. Looks like a great size for motorcycle sized work. What kind of adv bike do you have? I'm a KLR650 guy myself, tho I am lusting after the KTM 1190 adventure.

 

[Damian_74]

Nice job. Looks like a great size for motorcycle sized work. What kind of adv bike do you have? I'm a KLR650 guy myself, tho I am lusting after the KTM 1190 adventure.

Had a look at your table build Dr Clyde - NOW THAT IS A FABRICATION TABLE!

I have a few BMW F650gs Dakar - slightly improved.

If you haven't worked out out by now I do like Pic's, sorry to anyone on a slow connection

 

[slodat]

My fixturing table. I built the 2"x3"x .120" frame to support a 3' X 4' top. Happened across a huge CNC milling machine at a local scrap yard. Scored the 2' x 4' X 2.125" cast iron table for $100. Will get a 1' piece made to complete at some point. The 1" thick plates prove handy as is.

 

[mrolds88]

Hi mrolds88,

The "Hockey Pucks" are the start (need to make lots more) of my stops and spacers for the fixture bench. Using the grid pattern in the table and the Pucks it makes it a lot easier to jig up.

Have a look at STRONGHAND TOOLS and you will get the idea.

I see. I also see the how one can wind up making/ buying a LOT of pieces for a table like this. I really like the design.

 

[dr_clyde]

Nice bikes! Great to see another adv rider on the forum.

 

[longlivepunk]

Not to knock the thread off track, but you ADV bike guys might also like this thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=290750

Still loving that table, Damian and nice machine-work too!

 

[Karnage]

Good to see another Brisbanite!

The welding table came up really well, where did you source the clamps from?

•Imperial Lead Screw – have to remember this when screw cutting – I almost exclusively work in metric, just have to remember not to disengage the thread chaser when you want to make a second cut on a metric thread – you have back the tool out and reverse the lathe.

I'm only new to machining and am learning something new every time I go in the shed, I came across this little revelation on one of the machining forums a little while ago, you still need to reverse the lathe, but at least you can disengage the halfnut

Warning this is a lot more drawn out than it needs to be.

 

[1/2 Cup]

G’day ½ Cup,

Overall I'm happy with the 336D (the oil issue was of my making).
I don’t think that it would stand up to working flat out in a fitting workshop but for my home machine shop, more than adequate.

Bad Points

•No swarf tray makes it a ****** to clean (I think on the new ones they have fitted one)

•The cross-slide DRO fitting isn’t the best – the chip guard was wider than it needed to be reducing travel if the tailstock and making oiling the bed ways impossible. Easy fix but annoying.

•Oil drain from the main gearbox is in a silly spot, makes a mess! – can I use that as an excuse for not changing the oil .

•Need more POWER – it is hard to come from the big 415v 3 phase lathe on the ship, taking 5mm cuts with blue chips flying over your shoulder to a 240V hobby lathe – have to work within its capabilities.

•Imperial Lead Screw – have to remember this when screw cutting – I almost exclusively work in metric, just have to remember not to disengage the thread chaser when you want to make a second cut on a metric thread – you have back the tool out and reverse the lathe.

•The angle scale on the compound slide is cheap and nasty – printed on a tin plate and riveted on.

Good Points

•Good speed range – needed when using tip tools.

•Love the Quick Change Toolpost – I think that it came with four tool holders. Bought a heap off ebay for ****** all. Now every cutting tool is mounted in a holder – once you have set all the tools up on centre - that is it - seconds to change between tools! And you can set the Zero for each one on the DRO, just scroll through as required.

•DRO – even if you have to remount some of the scales – the price difference between the 336 and the 336D is about $1300. With all the extras you get on the D, almost cheaper to just buy the 336D. I did fit a DRO to my mill from The DRO Store in Singapore. I think it was about $600AUD by the time I freighted it.

•Comes with a good light, coolant (although I have never used mine), lead screw cover, safety shield and stand.

•Foot Brake – essential if you are thread cutting to a shoulder - especially as it is a imperial lead screw.


Have you looked at the AL-960B?
Perhaps better quality coming from Taiwan?
Slightly more expensive but not as well equipped.
Has a slower speed that might be an issue when using tip tools?

Now that I have confused the issue for you - Enjoy!

Damian.

Thank very much Damien.

Sounds like I have a bit more home work to do.

I do have three phase in the shed.

Regards