#FabSpace

[zmotorsports]

Gauge panel turned out sick Matt.

 

[Jayman17]

Needs some powder coat, do you have a source?

Jay

 

[rattle_snake]

yes, even though that is the most over the top gauge faceplate I have seen I know how far Mr. Powdercoat is going to take it.


Oh and the BHCS fasteners too.

 

[slodat]

Mr. Powdercoat for the win!

 

[lilscorpion]

Kinda seems like you guys are giving me a hard time….

I’ll see what I can do.

 

[rattle_snake]

Well it is our responsibility to encourage you


More likely we are jealous of your PC setup, abilities and the jeep.

 

[zmotorsports]

Well it is our responsibility to encourage you


More likely we are jealous of your PC setup, abilities and the jeep.

^^This.

 

[lilscorpion]

Well it is our responsibility to encourage you


More likely we are jealous of your PC setup, abilities and the jeep.

It is in fact an important job. Just ribbin’ y’all. I’ll get to the gauge cluster coating in a bit. I’m presently having an psychological meltdown trying to figure out if the faceplate should be white or black texture (like the box itself). Imagine me and my wife both arguing the same side of a debate about running beadlocks on a supercharged Jeep. It’s more or less exactly like that so I need a little time to figure some **** out of it’s ok. Appreciate the space.

Something to tide us all over - Swappin wheels and what not between Jeeps. The ones we purchased for Andrew’s were powder coated black. Coating didn’t fair well against the impact it seems.



Cleaned up. Like new kinda



Now new totally.

 

[zmotorsports]

Matt, the lug nuts turned out great.

Can I ask why you run lug nuts that require an adapter socket? Personally I've tried to discourage people from running those splined lug nuts, or any lug nut that requires a special socket, on off-road vehicles in particular. The several times I have stopped to help people either after a rollover or just a flat tire it seems that them locating that "special" socket for the lug nuts took longer than the actual roadside repair. During one incident after righting a vehicle after a rollover, we never could locate the locking key for his lug nuts in which to change one of the tire that got damaged during the rollover.

Just a thought is all.

 

[lilscorpion]

Matt, the lug nuts turned out great.

Can I ask why you run lug nuts that require an adapter socket? Personally I've tried to discourage people from running those splined lug nuts, or any lug nut that requires a special socket, on off-road vehicles in particular. The several times I have stopped to help people either after a rollover or just a flat tire it seems that them locating that "special" socket for the lug nuts took longer than the actual roadside repair. During one incident after righting a vehicle after a rollover, we never could locate the locking key for his lug nuts in which to change one of the tire that got damaged during the rollover.

Just a thought is all.

Admittedly, I just always have them to keep honest people honest. I have locking stainless fasteners on various accessories on my rig as well.



The cost of being careful is one I’ve considered. If I get in a bad way, I’ll just cut them off, or drill them out…I have both the tools and the skills to fix whatever mess I end up in. They aren’t impossible to get off, you probably already have an idea…but it would slow you down, piss you off, hopefully look at the next jeep instead.



Maybe there’s a slight cool factor as well…


There’s at least one on each of my bumpers somewhere too…and maybe other places. Keep ‘em guessing. I’m cautious. You wanna steal my **** you’re going to have to earn it.

I’ve seen rigs on blocks at hotels on the way to Moab. Go to sleep excited to get into Moab the next day, wake up and someone walked off with $4k in wheels and tires. A light bar…and they stole the bar and the brackets as one assembly. Felt bad for them dudes.

I won’t be socket-less on the trail. That’s not me. I always have 2. I can have a bad day but if I lose both, I someone should encourage me to take a time out.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I've never seen that pentagonal fastener before. My next door neighbor and I will have brand new Super Duty's (mine is still on the train) and I keep telling him it's my goal to make mine annoying enough to steal the tailgate and taillights that they walk next door and just steal his! I've got a couple of minor theft prevention devices for the tailgate and some security Torx head screws for my lights.

Houston is the worst for this kind of theft.....

 

[lilscorpion]

I've never seen that pentagonal fastener before. My next door neighbor and I will have brand new Super Duty's (mine is still on the train) and I keep telling him it's my goal to make mine annoying enough to steal the tailgate and taillights that they walk next door and just steal his! I've got a couple of minor theft prevention devices for the tailgate and some security Torx head screws for my lights.

Houston is the worst for this kind of theft.....

Tailgates are the worst if you ask me thought I thought the new ones that lock with the cab kinda overcame their inherent design flaw that made them nearly the easiest expensive thing to steal in less than 30 seconds. Maybe the locking feature doesn’t? As for the lights…that’s a tough one. Usually only a few screws…guess you do need safety screws.

First time someone swiped something from one of my vehicles was when I was 16. Then again when I was 17, then 18. Couple times in my 20’s, few in my 30’s. I’ve lived in middle town America my whole life. I’ve replaced a $400 drivers window because someone wanted the change in the ashtray. I’ve searched for months to find what turned out was a near obsolete dash bezel because someone wanted my $150 radio. Hell, people will steal your gas cap…

 

[lilscorpion]

Matt, the lug nuts turned out great.

Can I ask why you run lug nuts that require an adapter socket? Personally I've tried to discourage people from running those splined lug nuts, or any lug nut that requires a special socket, on off-road vehicles in particular. The several times I have stopped to help people either after a rollover or just a flat tire it seems that them locating that "special" socket for the lug nuts took longer than the actual roadside repair. During one incident after righting a vehicle after a rollover, we never could locate the locking key for his lug nuts in which to change one of the tire that got damaged during the rollover.

Just a thought is all.

Thinking about it overnight…think your right to an extent. Maybe if I gotta have a wheel lock of sorts, i should reduce it to one per wheel. Then, worst case scenario, I’m only having to beat a socket over one of them to get a wheel off if I have a real bad day and end up without the damn splined socket.

Also realizing I’m not much of a trail buddy. I like to believe my junk is so well kept that I won’t have issues like everyone else but that thinking is the chink in my armor too I suppose. If my rig has an issue, I’d be the a$$ that either brings everyone to a halt for hours or the one who stays behind because I decided to be special.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I totally get what Mike is saying as it happened to me one time. We were up in Caliente, NV prerunning for a race. I had flown to Vegas to meet up with my team who had come from LA in an F-250 and a 38' toy hauler. I got in the back seat and told my buddy that something wasn't right with the truck. He said he knew the problem and it had been doing it for a while.

The next day I was pulling the trailer through a mountain pass and it got worse. I got out and saw the tire started to bubble in the tread! Luckily, I was close to our stop and I was able to get unhooked. I got out to change the tire and couldn't find the lug key. Called on the radio and my buddy was convinced it was in the glove box......it wasn't. Keep in mind, Caliente, NV has a population of ~1,200, so it's not like we could just go buy one at a tire shop. We asked every race team with aftermarket wheels on their truck if we could try their key and we actually found one that worked! The tire had like a 12" bulge on it; I wish I had a picture.

Obviously an organized, well prepared person won't lose their key, but tire shops seem to forget to put them back in the glove box.

 

[lilscorpion]

I totally get what Mike is saying as it happened to me one time. We were up in Caliente, NV prerunning for a race. I had flown to Vegas to meet up with my team who had come from LA in an F-250 and a 38' toy hauler. I got in the back seat and told my buddy that something wasn't right with the truck. He said he knew the problem and it had been doing it for a while.

The next day I was pulling the trailer through a mountain pass and it got worse. I got out and saw the tire started to bubble in the tread! Luckily, I was close to our stop and I was able to get unhooked. I got out to change the tire and couldn't find the lug key. Called on the radio and my buddy was convinced it was in the glove box......it wasn't. Keep in mind, Caliente, NV has a population of ~1,200, so it's not like we could just go buy one at a tire shop. We asked every race team with aftermarket wheels on their truck if we could try their key and we actually found one that worked! The tire had like a 12" bulge on it; I wish I had a picture.

Obviously an organized, well prepared person won't lose their key, but tire shops seem to forget to put them back in the glove box.

Lucky someone had a key that worked. They’re probably common enough (especially within a community like racers) that someone would have one, but maybe only when there’s a high enough density of them in one place. When we got the trail, there may only be a few others so the odds would be way less.

I like to believe I’m organized and well prepared but, like in your story, sometimes it just doesn’t get put back maybe even for a good reason.

 

[lilscorpion]

This is KICKING MY A$$. Mounting the 37’s on the beadlocks. Last set I used 1” valve stems so they’d be tucked back in behind the lock nicely but found that they were just barely long enough to get a Chuck on. This set I’m running the 1.5” stems.



It’s this part that kills me. Wheel #1. I know it’s gonna be back breaking. Wish I had a tire machine. Someday..



Last time I used soap like I normally do but had a hell of a time getting the tire to seat even though the 40’s have what should be a crazy flexible sidewall. This time I got the good stuff. I almost got distracted by wanting a bracket for the brush bucket but quickly snapped out of it.



Since I’ve well documented the process before I didn’t bother taking pics of the whole process and just worked the steps until I was done. Was harder on the back than I remember. Maybe on the second one I’ll remember to put it on 2 tires to elevate it some. Funny how it’s easy to forget the hacks when you don’t do a task often. 3 more to go…

 

[Bob Heine]

I keep a key in the glove compartment (PT Cruiser) or in the spare tire compartment (Cadillac) and never take them out. I ordered spares and store them on the appropriate short sockets in the garage tool chest and always use those when I'm home. I also wrote the location on small cards and slipped them into the owners manual pouch so they show through the window where dealers put their business cards. It may not help Mrs. Heine but it's all I could think of. The night before I had a flat on the PT Cruiser last week she asked me where the lug nut key was stored. Makes one a little suspicious.

 

[csp]

Matt I have a tire machine you're welcome to use. Anything bigger than 35s can be a challenge however, but you're welcome to try it.

 

[lilscorpion]

Matt I have a tire machine you're welcome to use. Anything bigger than 35s can be a challenge however, but you're welcome to try it.

$hit….fought my way through. Thanks for the offer, I’ll try to remember.

I’d only hold and elevate the tire on the machine so I don’t have to stay hunched over for hours.

 

[Monza Harry]

Matt I have [just recently] purchased and built my SWAG off road press brake [20"/20Ton] and of course the first job for it is too small for the gap, [and I haven't collected the needed bridging supplies yet to overcome this... obstacle]. So with that I have recently seen that you, Bob Heine and maybe Keyblazer(?) have those little vice breaks, I am wondering how well they work or is this a 5 handed job to hold your work piece, both jaw parts that keep wanting to fall off and turn the vice handle while swatting flying insects? Or are these really a good piece of equipment to add to an overstuffed garage? [I feel for Bob on that one! He takes on jobs my 2 "skilled trades hands" have a hard time with! My hats off to you Bob we know you are watching] Next question your smaller angle finder that Mike was questioning you about would you do the 6" or the 4" if you had to replace? My vise is a 6" for that break as a reference. Locally available in 4", 5", 6", & 8" sizes My biggest/strongest vise is the 6" Any advice/thoughts that you or the others would care to share? TIA! PM's are great if you don't want to add clutter for an aside to this thread are awesome as well. Harry

 

[WoodsTruck]

I have a 4" vice brake that has a couple different width sections in the "male" part of the brake to make up the 4" width so a box could be bent if need be. The pieces have magnets to hold them in the vice, so that part is taken care of. I like to scribe the folding line then it "clicks" into place on the "male" die so I don't have to worry about being too precise on the holding of the work piece as I get the handle turned. If it is awkward, I'll get the pressing die up real close to the metal, use both hands to ensure the die is locked into the scribe line, pull the metal forward so that it touches the rear die on the bottom, the male die in the middle and my hands on top to keep it still, then turn the vice handle with my knee until the metal is held in the brake under tension.

 

[lilscorpion]

Matt I have [just recently] purchased and built my SWAG off road press brake [20"/20Ton] and of course the first job for it is too small for the gap, [and I haven't collected the needed bridging supplies yet to overcome this... obstacle]. So with that I have recently seen that you, Bob Heine and maybe Keyblazer(?) have those little vice breaks, I am wondering how well they work or is this a 5 handed job to hold your work piece, both jaw parts that keep wanting to fall off and turn the vice handle while swatting flying insects? Or are these really a good piece of equipment to add to an overstuffed garage? [I feel for Bob on that one! He takes on jobs my 2 "skilled trades hands" have a hard time with! My hats off to you Bob we know you are watching] Next question your smaller angle finder that Mike was questioning you about would you do the 6" or the 4" if you had to replace? My vise is a 6" for that break as a reference. Locally available in 4", 5", 6", & 8" sizes My biggest/strongest vise is the 6" Any advice/thoughts that you or the others would care to share? TIA! PM's are great if you don't want to add clutter for an aside to this thread are awesome as well. Harry

Harry,

I like the vise brake however it’s very limited in usability in that the die is so narrow that it’s really only designed to work on very thin gauge material. I’ve managed to barely bend a piece of 1/8” x 3” aluminum to 90 degrees. That said, if the need is only to kiss/tweak a piece like I did for the a-pillar gauge bracket in the jeep, it’ll work well.

You could get some angle at your local box store and make a narrower die (bottom piece) so you can bend thinner parts. Stack up angles until you’re to the die width you need. Rough guess, a you should be able to go down in 1/2” sizes if you use 1/8 steel angle. 1x1 inside of 1.5x1.5 inside of 2x2. Just a thought

 

[Bob Heine]

So with that I have recently seen that you, Bob Heine and maybe Keyblazer(?) have those little vice breaks, I am wondering how well they work or is this a 5 handed job to hold your work piece, both jaw parts that keep wanting to fall off and turn the vice handle while swatting flying insects?

Harry, @WoodsTruck describes it perfectly. I have the 4" as well and the magnets hold the two jaws very well. I line the piece up on the scribed line and put a little pressure on the sheet metal with whatever part of me is handy (stump, nose, chin, etc.) and turn the screw handle. I sometimes hold the piece with my hand and turn the handle with my knee. It's one of those 'hire the handicapped, we're fun to watch' moments. Do not attempt to put a bend in a machine screw using the brake -- it will dent the edge (trust me, I know).

 

[Monza Harry]

Thanx guys! I am aware of the stacking pieces to narrow the gap, but as I just finished assembly about a month ago I just haven't amassed my build up stock yet, but after seeing what you [the GJ collective] used yours for I'm thinking that they may be handier than I first imagined especially for smaller bracketry and such, I easily can see the shortcomings of the SWAG unit in that capacity these vise units are less than 1/2 of the SWAG fix, and with steel prices as they are, buying stock [and free isn't happening right now either] is even more/same $ than/as these little brakes. Just considering right now I still need to actually get the big one in the press. [Slacker yes I know!] and try it out. Thanx Again Harry

 

[lilscorpion]

Swapping in the new 37’s, did a little math and found that the rear sway bar links were 1” too short. What this causes is for them to invert at full suspension droop. So I took the opportunity to make the right length set which requires I do a little power tapping on the lathe. Tried out this new cutting “fluid” called Anchorlube.



It’s water soluble so really had no idea how well it would work. Very interesting results tho.



When tapping with oil, it tends to settle in on the tap threads and then the heat causes it to wick away from the tap and part. This stuff seems to stay put. Look at how it stayed on the tap even after extracting the tap. Crazy.



And threads look great. Anchorlube, +1.

 

[zanyad]

...
And threads look great. Anchorlube, +1.

Anchorlube is a great product for hand and power tapping. I've used it at work with good results, mostly in steel.

 

[zmotorsports]

Nice job Matt. Glad you found Anchorlube. I bought some several years ago and use it on various projects and have really liked it as well.

 

[slodat]

Came home to a bottle of Anchorlube. Awesome stuff. Thanks for helping me spend my money.. because I obviously need help with that!

 

[lilscorpion]

Got some hours in oN the LJ but didn’t take a lot of pics. We have a non-trivial exhaust leak on the drivers side…the 4.0l’s header, y-pipe, and pre-cats are all on the drivers side. We removed the Y-pipe because it was easy and found a seized bolt. We also found the adapter at the bottom of the turbo had a few gaps hidden by a pinch clamp which we welded up. Hopeful that was our issue we put it back together and gave it a go. No joy. We are getting almost 2 lbs more boost where the converter flashes but the leak is still there. That means we have a cracked header. Since Andrew did such a nice job wrapping it, the only way we’re going to know for sure is to take it out and inspect it on the bench.

Moved on to tacking the electrical. Andrews did the typical thing for a teenager who wires accessories - wires everywhere, hundreds of zip ties, dozens of solderless crimp connectors, and miles of wire rolled up to take up the significantly excessive slack manufacturers build into their generic kits. Took me about 3 hours to decompose it all.



The fuse box had never been mounted and was zip tied to the AC tubing. I did a little design on paper and then traced some bracket parts out of some 1/8” aluminum sheet.



Didn’t get a great pick of the oart new side I was on a roll.



Then modified the fuse box mounting bracket to take some height out of it. Managed to metal finish it to look almost perfect. You’d never be able to tell i took 2” out of the prongs and removed the original mounting bracket. The factory paint came off too easily in rge blast cabinet. Hopefully the black fine texture powder coat will last longer.



Need to do a little work before I can install it. Now to tackle the wiring. Andrews jeep has the same issue as my Jk did. All accessory wires go through the firewall on the drivers side but then have to go all the way back to the passengers side to connect to the battery. So I’m going to install a secondary fuse box on the drivers inner fender. Again i designed the part on a sheet of 6061 plate and got to cutting on the bandsaw.



The mount will be spaced above the the inner fender by 3/4” intentionally so that the space below can be used as a “raceway” of sorts for the various wires which will both hide and protect them. Got started on the relay mounting bracket but ran out of time. Freakin dinner time.

 

[lilscorpion]

The machine learning capabilities on Facebook caught my interest when I noticed an NIB AFE
Header for a Jeep 4.0L on my feed. How in the world could they know I just learned I needed one. Picked it up for $400. New they’re about $800.



Online it dates they’re TIG welded.



BS they are. Nice welds but 100% not Tig.





Weld splatter + MIG stop/starts.



Look at the damage to the threads in the bungs.



A little clean up tho, they’ll do just fine.

 

[4 FN 27]

Online it dates they’re TIG welded.



BS they are. Nice welds but 100% not Tig.



A little clean up tho, they’ll do just fine.

Professionally welded by the Gobfather himself.

 

[lilscorpion]

Got back on the LJ wiring cleanup. Started on the relay box.



This is an extension to the last piece I made which is where the aux fuse box will mount in the inner fender.



I cut two plates each of which will hold 3 relays each.



Each of the plates is drilled for rivnuts where the relays will attach.



The relay box will attach at the same angle so it will hug the inner fender.



The back side is drilled for grommets where the pigtails of the relays will exit.



I was so close, then I tried to install a stainless rivnut which proved to be more than the import rivnut tool could handle…



so now this will be on hold until I can get a new mandrel next week.

 

[Bob Heine]

I was so close, then I tried to install a stainless rivnut which proved to be more than the import rivnut tool could handle…so now this will be on hold until I can get a new mandrel next week.

Matt, I suspect stainless rivnuts are like stainless pop rivets and take quite a bit more oomph to set. I ended up with a pneumatic rivet gun after trying the giant Astro 1426 (it works but is awkward for me to use). With some grinding on an appropriate size Grade 8 bolt I believe either tool can be used to set rivnuts.

 

[no704]

Get the Astro drill adapter rivnut tool and thank me later.

 

[lilscorpion]

Matt, I suspect stainless rivnuts are like stainless pop rivets and take quite a bit more oomph to set. I ended up with a pneumatic rivet gun after trying the giant Astro 1426 (it works but is awkward for me to use). With some grinding on an appropriate size Grade 8 bolt I believe either tool can be used to set rivnuts.

Yes, it barely crushed at all before the mandrel gave out. I’ll try a grade 8 bolt. That’s a good idea.

Get the Astro drill adapter rivnut tool and thank me later.

Looks like it uses the same mandrel/collet set as the one I broke. You’ve used it for stainless?

 

[no704]

Not SS, not sure on that one, they do have 2 sizes. use some antisize on the stud? Lots of 5/16 steel nuts installed with mine, I would think SS will probably be softer, unless it is work hardining.

 

[lilscorpion]

Worked on the LJ’s electrical system this weekend. With the aux fuse box mounting plate done, I shifted focus to the relay box. The goal of this relay box is to consolidate all relays to one area instead have them scattered around under the hood on each accessories wire harness. This will supplement the switch pod we installed when we first built the jeep.



It’s fairly simple. Someday maybe I’ll try something like it, it not this go-round.



I got the rivnuts installed and then welded up the box.




Machined some retainers for the relays. They’ll help keep the relays in place and make it impossible form them to fall out.



They work something like this…



Fully loaded relay box. The entire unit will be removable so it’s easily serviceable on the trail.



The relays will lay just in the fender-well.



One step closer…

 

[lilscorpion]

Terminal block arrived. Looks snappy. Have an idea for how to protect the lugs and wire ends from stuff inadvertently brushing them while hot.

 

[lilscorpion]

Huge progress tonight!! Made the stand-offs to elevate the base plates.



Super ******** machining. 7/8” long 6061.



Starting to come together. Now it’s just a bunch of wiring.



I also Stripped the powder coat off of the fuse box mounting bracket I made last weekend. Turned out I had to trim 1/2” off the top or the battery couldn’t be removed. After stripping I added the rivnuts and test fit it in place.



I did get the Cllena 300 amp bus bars were delivered today. Same ones as I used in the JK.



I’m hoping I’ll be able to fit them under the fuse box and In front of the battery tray.

 

[zmotorsports]

Lookin' good Matt. Very clean and tidy.