ukiltmybrutha
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2016
- Messages
- 684
a crack is a crack & always will be a crack in my opinion. not to be smart ***, but a crack is a weak spot and I doubt there's anything that will be permanent
Use a heat gun, a torch wants to catch it on fire. Ask me how I know.I have had good luck with this from Home Depot, online only. Latex ite Pli sticx
![]()
Latex-ite Pli-Stix 60 ft. Small Black Permanent Blacktop Joint and Crack Filler 36099 - The Home Depot
Use this Latex-ite Pli-Stix Small Black Driveway Crack and Joint Filler for filling asphalt and concrete cracks or expansion-joint cracks.www.homedepot.com
Not really. The companies here have more work than they can shake a stick at or charge so much that you will just go away and still not show up if you pay extra. The asphalt is only 11 years old. I don't know much about asphalt so that doesn't seem ancient to me.That asphalt looks pretty old. Is getting a company out with their truck to put a new topcoat on not a viable option? Might not be the cheapest but should 'fix' it for a decade.
Two year drought?I gave up trying to "fix" the cracks on mine. With the two year drought still ongoing that just the way it is.
I have one. Most of you are having success with it. I was watching a youtube video and some comments saying that the cracks came back with it. I think I will try it out in a test area instead of going apesh!t with all of the cracks I filled last time.Agree, the Pli-Stix worked well for me. It helps to have a wand for your propane torch.
Asphalt cracks are always due to something underneath it, unlike concrete. You can’t really repair those, but a good sealant should last a while. I’d recommend calling a pro to get cracks sealed and seal cost the rest. Asphalt will last longer if you do.
I'm not an asphalt expert but I have fixed many cracks in many substances. Seems like bridging is the best method if it will work. Like tape under drywall mud or backer rod in a deep crack. On flat roofs I use mesh tape and mastic.
The v-groove idea sounds viable but cutting a wandering crack will be tedious. If you do maybe get some fiberglass strand called roving and push it into the crack with a dull screwdriver or chisel. Asphalt repair compound in a tube would seem to me to be the best way to backfill. I think I would prefill a little as well. Once done, seal coat the whole drive for appearance.
Random thoughts, that's all. I've never done this exactly as described.
Yeah, POR-15 is very good at holding back/out rust. Not UV tolerant at all, so no good outside. Pretty shiny as well so it would leave traces. I'd still go with something like Henry's in a tube. I'm not promoting a brand, just the general idea w/o having to look it up.I have used fiberglass mat and por 15 like substance to fill body rust in vehicles previously and that stuff sets up ridiculously hard. Hmmmm....
This is correct. There are fabrics that can be placed and an overlay installed. That said, that’s a fair amount of cost. I assumed the OP was on a budget.I'm not an asphalt expert but I have fixed many cracks in many substances. Seems like bridging is the best method if it will work. Like tape under drywall mud or backer rod in a deep crack. On flat roofs I use mesh tape and mastic.
Yes, call in the pros…. I had some done by “pros”, the top rated in my area. They cracked faster than my repairs. They also shrunk by like 70%, whatever they used was as bad as the Home Depot stuff that comes in a bottle.Asphalt cracks are always due to something underneath it, unlike concrete. You can’t really repair those, but a good sealant should last a while. I’d recommend calling a pro to get cracks sealed and seal cost the rest. Asphalt will last longer if you do.
Yeah I forgot about the UV part. I have read good things about Henry's actually in auto enthusiast forums.Yeah, POR-15 is very good at holding back/out rust. Not UV tolerant at all, so no good outside. Pretty shiny as well so it would leave traces. I'd still go with something like Henry's in a tube. I'm not promoting a brand, just the general idea w/o having to look it up.
Someone here knows more than I if anyone wants to add to the 'bridging' idea.
Budget yes...but fixing it the best that I can (or at least hoping it stays fixed for a few years) on my own is important to me too.This is correct. There are fabrics that can be placed and an overlay installed. That said, that’s a fair amount of cost. I assumed the OP was on a budget.
Sounds like a Pli-stix vote to me. Sounds like you got hosed and had to DIY and are happier with the results.Yes, call in the pros…. I had some done by “pros”, the top rated in my area. They cracked faster than my repairs. They also shrunk by like 70%, whatever they used was as bad as the Home Depot stuff that comes in a bottle.
You accidentally just answered why they sell that stuff by the way. It has been bugging me for years that before I knew how to patch a wall I accidentally purchased that stuff...lol.There is a theory that to fix a crack you need to wedge it open a little so it can't move. When patching plaster I try to use an expanding patch compound rather than one that shrinks. Getting hard to find.

Tons of videos for this stuff. Looks like it might work well for alligator crack areas.I've used this stuff to repair pot holes in the neighborhood as well as on my driveway. Over 3 years now and it's still holding up well. Even with large construction vehicles on these area's as well as snow plows. Not sure if this is ideal for cracks but it holds up well. The binder is chemically activated with water. You can drive on it in less than 10 minutes. Just clean the area of any loose material and add the Aquaphalt and add water then tamp it. Done. Some DOT's are using this for one off pot holes. It's about $50 per 2 gallon bucket so it's not cheap but works. My Ace hardware stocks it. Just fyi.![]()
How is it holding up and what is your climate like?
Our driveway is about 30 years old and the "cracks" turned out to be shrinkage cracks and continue to grow to this day. The worst is a couple inches across now.Hey,
I have about 10 of these in my driveway that I tried to repair myself. These tubes of red devil asphalt repair lasted for about 6 months and then cracked in the same spot. What can I do from here without calling the "pros" in?
Thanks.
Can't you seal over it to make it match better?Our driveway is about 30 years old and the "cracks" turned out to be shrinkage cracks and continue to grow to this day. The worst is a couple inches across now.
I can't see dealing with them because they just keep moving (opening) through time and the soil supports wheel loads.
I do chisel out and fill depressions where rodent tunnels undermined the support. I use AquaPhalt. It's simple and stays put through winter weather and abuse. If only it came in a "faded" color because it sure stands out on an old driveway.
I don't believe in sealing the pavement. Pavements need to breath. Civil Engineering 101.Can't you seal over it to make it match better?
Alright. Fair enough. I definitely didn't take that class.I don't believe in sealing the pavement. Pavements need to breath. Civil engineering 101.
The AquaPhalt does not seem to be for that kind of minor repair. It's for filling voids, wider openings and depressions.All, what about removing the failed red devil? How are any of these products going to stick to it
Minneapolis, I just put it on in the fall so the jury is still out.How is it holding up and what is your climate like?
Thanks.
