Famco 612 issues help

[Ststephen7]

Hey guys,

I got a Famco 612, and it looks and works great.

However... the only part missing is the part that would push on a handle to turn it off when done cutting.

Is anyone who has one willing to reply with a picture of that part so I make a replacement?

I did try to make my own, and as you can (might) see from the pictures, the rod has lots of play in it, and in all of my attempts it wants to kick to the inside or outside, and wedges itself so it won't turn off the saw.

I guess I could redo the whole switch set up, and I'd rather do the simplest thing.

I also have an issue with the cylinder that controls the downfeed. I'm guessing it's low on fluid... Here is what it does: When I lift the saw all the way and allow it to start dropping the cylinder does not do anything until the saw drops quite a ways... about where a 4" piece of stock would be in the vise.

Then, the control knob only works at the far end of the range, either stopping the fall, or allowing it to lower either pretty fast or way too fast...

Do I need more fluid? And... since I don't know what's currently in it should I empty it and refill with... what?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[Ststephen7]

Hey guys,



I got a Famco 612, and it looks and works great.



However... the only part missing is the part that would push on a handle to turn it off when done cutting.



Is anyone who has one willing to reply with a picture of that part so I make a replacement?



I did try to make my own, and as you can (might) see from the pictures, the rod has lots of play in it, and in all of my attempts it wants to kick to the inside or outside, and wedges itself so it won't turn off the saw.



I guess I could redo the whole switch set up, and I'd rather do the simplest thing.



I also have an issue with the cylinder that controls the downfeed. I'm guessing it's low on fluid... Here is what it does: When I lift the saw all the way and allow it to start dropping the cylinder does not do anything until the saw drops quite a ways... about where a 4" piece of stock would be in the vise.



Then, the control knob only works at the far end of the range, either stopping the fall, or allowing it to lower either pretty fast or way too fast...



Do I need more fluid? And... since I don't know what's currently in it should I empty it and refill with... what?



Thanks,

Steve

No one?


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[matt_i]

I don't know your saw specifically, but have spent a lot of time monkeying with horizontal saws over ~26 years.... it would appear that you need 2 parts, 1) a guide similar to the one below the switch, I would just bend a piece of 16ga or so and drill the same sized hole in it, mount to the top 2 screws of the switch box. Then you may need another "L" shaped bracket to give a larger surface area to strike the top of the bent rod more reliably. I'd look at the saw frame and see if there are any tapped holes indicating the potential for a missing part.

As far as the dashpot/flowcontrol, there can be leather washers inside of it which can decay over time and lose their effectiveness. Depending on capabilitites or lack of OEM parts support you may have to make your own. In general the saw will work without the dashpot if you have the correct downfeed weight balance. A person would just gently set the moving blade on the workpiece instead of being able to just drop it from a foot above. The weight balance does change due to the geometry of the saw head if you are cutting 1/2" x 2 flat bar VS a 10" I-beam.....so if you get into big sections you may need a "helper" weight at the start of the cut, but it will have to come off at some point, too much downpressure in any saw will result in a banana shaped cut.

 

[Monza Harry]

Here is a Drawing of what my Wells saw uses, a similar set-up as you have tried to do. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2214/3646.pdf this is not a great view but will give some idea how this works. When I look at your "Home Brew" solution the only two things I see is that the bend I think should be rotated 90* across the saw instead of along it and the hole for the cotter pin/cotter pin should be of minimal clearance as that is all that I see on mine used for anti rotation. Harry

 

[Ststephen7]

Thank you so much! I’ll make an upper guide and see if I can find any worn part/washers

 

[Ststephen7]

Here is a Drawing of what my Wells saw uses, a similar set-up as you have tried to do. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2214/3646.pdf this is not a great view but will give some idea how this works. When I look at your "Home Brew" solution the only two things I see is that the bend I think should be rotated 90* across the saw instead of along it and the hole for the cotter pin/cotter pin should be of minimal clearance as that is all that I see on mine used for anti rotation. Harry

Thank you!

My “home brew” solution is , I believe original to the saw.

I did think there was a bit too much play with the cotter pin, and then I did nothing about it. I’m hoping the upper guide, also pictured in your link, along with a new cotter pin will be the fix.


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