Fascia Boards

[DMurray]

Hey folks - the garage I'm planning has a 5/12 pitch roof with 2x4 top chords on the trusses. A few questions come to mind about creating the sub-fascia structure:

I was thinking I'd use long 2x4s to cover the truss ends, but should the fascia boards drop down a bit below the bottom of the chord or should they be even with it?

Do you bevel cut the top of the fascia boards at the same angle as the trusses to make a smooth transition for the roof sheathing, or just leave them square?

Do you install the fascia boards before sheathing the roof so the sheathing goes over top of the fascia board?

Thanks!

 

[ducatithunder]

Your sub fascia or fascia header can be even with the rafter ends. I like 2x material for sub fascia as it allows plenty of meat to support and attach what ever facsia board you use. Your soffit will nail to this. If you extend it to far then you will have to use wider fascia board. 2x4-2x6 should work nicely. Plastic fascia will require more nailing or screw as it is not as rigid as wood. 1x pine does want to droop as much since it alot more rigid. Your fascia will hang lower then that and should end below your soffit to create a drip edge. If you want to bevel then go for it. I left my just below the line on my last build. Was not worth the time to cut 150 plus feet of board as youll never see it when its covered with your nice fascia board. I extend the roof sheathing just past the sub fascia to the width of facia you intend to use. 3/4 to and 1 inch is good for 1x fascia board. This allows the drip edge for the roof to hang over the fascia board you install.

Here is a very simple drawing to show the elements of your fascia.

My old man told me a long time ago that trim would have a little reveal. Never put it flush. If you leave it alittle proud or with a reveal then it will hind many imperfections. 3/16 - 1/4 inch or less is all you need. If there is no reveal then any waves will be seen by the naked eye.

 

[Dagny]

I like to use a 2x6.

 

[The Cobbler]

2x6 gives rigidity, room to hang trough , and aesthetically pleasing look.
line it up so the sheathing lays on the outer edge and not high or low . no need to bevel it to the same angle as the roof sheathing

 

[DMurray]

Ok, looks like 2x6s are the way to go.

Do you put them up after the roof sheathing is on? That would make sense because there will be some urgency to get the roof sheathing on right after the trusses go up in order to stabilize them.

So do you just overhang the first course of OSB sheathing by 1.5", then tuck the 2x6 under it later on?

 

[Kaizen]

Ok, looks like 2x6s are the way to go.



Do you put them up after the roof sheathing is on? That would make sense because there will be some urgency to get the roof sheathing on right after the trusses go up in order to stabilize them.



So do you just overhang the first course of OSB sheathing by 1.5", then tuck the 2x6 under it later on?

No. The trusses should be all braced as they are put up. Brace like there is a storm coming that night.
True up the ends of the trusses by trimming any that stick out. Use a string line and mark each one. Then put the 2x6 on. No need to bevel it but keep it down so the plane of the trusses kisses the corner of the 2x. Then the roof sheathing.
Highly suggest making a full size mock up before you start with sizes and such of trim you will use.
I have crown molding and various details on mine so I overhung the roof sheathing enough to make it work. You will have at least 3/4 trim and don’t want the rain falling in fascia so overhang at least enough for that


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