I am finishing up my shed, I had premade trusses made, the drawing of the trus is attached. I'm putting fascia pine in the same angle as the truss but can't seem to get the cut angle to be perfect. The one rafter is coming up at a 10/12 slope and it needs to be joined to the next piece which is at a 4/12 slope. I have it marked on the drawing. Seems like an easy calculation but I'm not finding it. Thank you for your help.
Fascia cuts
- Thread starter joeyb1180
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Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Take a sample piece and cut each end at 10 1/2 degrees. I laid it out on top of the existing pic of your rafter. The total angle is 201 degrees. half of that is 100.5 degrees. Subtract 90 degrees from that and you end up with 10.5 or 10 1/2 degrees per piece. But not, that is for two pieces butting together end to end. You may want to cut a scrap piece of flashing to put underneath of the two but ends so you don't see any wood showing through. We all know that lumber is not perfect.
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I am guessing you mean your rake boards on the gable overhang not the fascia right?
If you want to split the difference for the visual look, then do it the way Kevin54 has shown you. If you don't care about that then the angles don't matter. You can square off the lower board at 90 degrees and then use the truss as a template to mark the angle on the upper board. If you look at the drawing you will note that they didn't split the angle on the truss. Even if you do it by measuring the angle at 10.5 degrees, I would only measure the angle on the first board. After cutting it, I would use the truss as a template and mark the second board. That way if you are off a bit, the boards will meet all along the joint and you won't notice if its not exactly symmetrical.
Two other things.
If you are using a 4/4 rake board, IE 3/4 inch thick, I recommend you put in a 2x subrake and then attach the 4/4 board as trim. It will make the overhang structure stronger and make any repairs to the trim board easier. Also it will give you a chance to practice cutting the angle when you cut the subrake.
Of course your lookouts, the braces that go from the wall out to the rake board, will need to be 1 1/2 inches shorter.
About those lookouts, make sure you use a lookout on each board just before the joint, not just one behind the joint. This will give you a nailing surface for the edge of the roof sheathing. Also you can trim each lookout the exact length to make sure the rake board is flush on the face. Sometimes if you use one board behind a joint like that, the two face boards will not be flush. As Kevin said, lumber ain't perfect.
Are you using a soffit or will the underside of the overhang be exposed?
Hi Mudbone,I am guessing you mean your rake boards on the gable overhang not the fascia right?
If you want to split the difference for the visual look, then do it the way Kevin54 has shown you. If you don't care about that then the angles don't matter. You can square off the lower board at 90 degrees and then use the truss as a template to mark the angle on the upper board. If you look at the drawing you will note that they didn't split the angle on the truss. Even if you do it by measuring the angle at 10.5 degrees, I would only measure the angle on the first board. After cutting it, I would use the truss as a template and mark the second board. That way if you are off a bit, the boards will meet all along the joint and you won't notice if its not exactly symmetrical.
Two other things.
If you are using a 4/4 rake board, IE 3/4 inch thick, I recommend you put in a 2x subrake and then attach the 4/4 board as trim. It will make the overhang structure stronger and make any repairs to the trim board easier. Also it will give you a chance to practice cutting the angle when you cut the subrake.
Of course your lookouts, the braces that go from the wall out to the rake board, will need to be 1 1/2 inches shorter.
About those lookouts, make sure you use a lookout on each board just before the joint, not just one behind the joint. This will give you a nailing surface for the edge of the roof sheathing. Also you can trim each lookout the exact length to make sure the rake board is flush on the face. Sometimes if you use one board behind a joint like that, the two face boards will not be flush. As Kevin said, lumber ain't perfect.
Are you using a soffit or will the underside of the overhang be exposed?
Thanks for your input, I will probably use soffit, and suggestions that you had?
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Not a problem. Thats what the members on this site are here for. Glad it worked out for you
Depending on what material you are going to use for the soffit, you need to make sure and leave enough depth for the rake and fascia boards to cover the material. If it is thin like sheet metal then it doesn't take much, but 3/16 or 1/4 material needs to be accounted for. Also I always like to have the fascia and rake hang past the soffit about 1/8 inch. It makes a nice shadow line and also makes any water drip off there instead of running back along the soffit.
The other thing to think about, if this is just a small shed and you want to cut down on the amount of framing, do you want to do a flat eave on the non-gable walls with an eave return? Or you could have your eaves sloped to match the rake on the gable end which would mean less framing work for you. (Although it looks like you already have your trusses plumb cut.)
I can't read the size of the lumber in the truss diagram. Let me know what that is (2x4, 2x6??) and I will give you an example of what I am talking about.
That's all done already, the cosmetic trim was where I was having the issue, all the framing is done, I now have to roof and put the soffit on. I was planning on using the very small soffit. The whole project is a 10x14 shed. Do you find it necessary to put in any ventilation. I was going to put gambrel vents but didn't and I didn't shingle yet so I have an opportunity to put a small attic type vent but wasn't going to deal with it. I installed 2 14x21 windows.
Sorry I didn't respond sooner. Been off line for a few days. I wouldn't worry about not having any other vents if you used vented soffit and have the windows you should be fine.
dawgee
Well-known member
Kevin54