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Fascis and gutter questions

383 240z

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Dec 4, 2006
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Findley Twp. Allegheny Co.
The time has come, the money is saved, days off have been scheduled.

New roof for the shop!!! My shop has needed a new roof since we bought this place 5 years ago. I'm sure th PO never cleaned the gutters on the place, and always let the sticks and leaves build up on the roof. The bottom 12" of the OSB is rotten, the soffit and fascia were in pretty bad shape. I've stripped the soffit, fascia and gutters off. Replaced the rotted 2x4's. I've installed the grid of 1x4's over the asphalt roofing.
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My question is, What are your thoughts on finishing this? The structure is trusses with a 2x6" top chord with 2x4" stringers, covered with an OSB deck and asphalt shingles. The fascia boards were 1x10's I was thinking about using LP Smart Trim for the fascia, but it is only 4" wide. I was also thinking about ripping PT plywood for it. The new roof will be metal 5 rib.

I was also thinking about ditching the rain gutters and downspouts as the run off will be falling on a gravel driveway. I've also been cutting back the trees that overhang the roof. That particular job was about 10 years overdue. Keith
 
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383 240z

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Findley Twp. Allegheny Co.
What your seeing in the top pic, the cracked 2x6, that was fixed by glueing and screwing another 2x6. The 2x4 stringer you can see, was also doubled up, the new one was secured to the trusses as well as nailed to the original one. The 1x4's are secured to the stringers with 16d rosin coated framing nails, driven by hand, spaced about 10" Also, I've ran a saw along the edge, removing the drip edge. Keith
 
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Gary S

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Bismarck, ND
If you get significant snowfall, it will likely rip off any gutters you put up there the first time the snow slides off the roof. Metal roof and gutters don't play well together in snow country.
 

jameswood

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Feb 8, 2011
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Nebraska
Rip some 3/4 osb and screw on, then nail on a finish of smart trim, siding or alum coil stock. Gives ya something to keep the 2x6 from twisting and something for gutters to screw into.

Could also cut some 2x and use as blocking at ends, then cover.
 
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jameswood

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Nebraska
If you get significant snowfall, it will likely rip off any gutters you put up there the first time the snow slides off the roof. Metal roof and gutters don't play well together in snow country.

Good point. Could extend metal roof 2-3" past facia so impacts gutters less yet water still goes into gutter (save a gushing rain :headscrat).
 

Blk88GT

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Manitoba
There are a ton of different ways to stop snow from sliding off your roof. I have never used any of them, but google has a ton of results!
 

Ray Kelly

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If you put the gutters on properly, you should not have any problem with snow tearing them off. I would screw a 1" fascia on and mount the gutters to it. You can always get gutter supports that go underneath and support the gutters if you are worried about the weight.
 
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jameswood

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Seen allot of issues tearing gutter off because shop building being heated using non vented heaters (too much moisture) and hot roofs not insulated well enough or ventilated properly and causing ice dams.
 
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383 240z

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Findley Twp. Allegheny Co.
Never thought about the snow slamming into the gutters. Thanks for that one!!! Talked to my buddy today, he has a metal roof, said the first time he heard the snow come off in a sheet, it sounded like a truck hitting a pole!!

I'm still considering a ground gutter along the front wall. I really don't like gutters, as I never remember to clean them.

I priced a few options for fascia here is the break down:

1x8x12 cedar $26.72
1x10x12 white pine $18.77
1x8x16 Armor Wood $40.97
1x9.25x12 PVC board $49.97
1x4x12 LP Smart Trim $7.33 (only width they had, could not find anybody who could quote me larger sizes)

I'm thinking 2x6's cut for blockers nail them in, rip some 3/4" PT plywood to cover.

jameswood I like your idea of pushing the edge of the metal past the edge of the wood deck, I could install the drip edge, on the edge. Then let the metal run long. Only question is, if I do that, can I still run gutters if I decide I need them? I dont know how far the roof edge should overhang the gutter.

I guess I could always trim the metal back if I decide to install them. The guy I bought the metal from told me to install a plywood blade on my circular backwards and it will make a clean cut in the metal.

The drip edge I bought hangs down about 3-4" I'm hoping that I can source some color matching steel, to slip under the drip, on the vertical, that has a return that will run under the blocking, so far I havent been able to find a similar green in coil stock. Keith
 

jerryd68

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Idaho
I have been involved in a similar project for the last couple of months, I have found that the metal roofing supplier that I used will bend any pieces that you need, for instance I had them bend end wall flashing that has a 10" rise onto a 4/12 pitch roof, I also had them custom make D style drip edge that came down the facia 5" to a 1/2" kick out. You may ask the metal suppliers in your area if they can bend you a custom fascia in the color of metal roofing that you choose.
 

CNGsaves

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KS and OK
With the 1x4 grid on roof on top of asphalt roof, I'm assuming that you feel that ashpalt won't leak if you indeed get a leak in steel roof over the top. In any event, that roof will be MUCH quieter than normal steel roof as it will have sound buffer from the sheeting and old asphalt.

+1 to get custom metal drip edge, and fascia trim metal / aluminum so that you'll have a maintenance-free finish when done. No use spending extra money on cedar or pressure-treated unless you plan to have it exposed and plan on painting every few years.

Keep pics coming as that garage will look nice once roof is complete.
 

jameswood

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Nebraska
Never thought about the snow slamming into the gutters. Thanks for that one!!! Talked to my buddy today, he has a metal roof, said the first time he heard the snow come off in a sheet, it sounded like a truck hitting a pole!!

I'm still considering a ground gutter along the front wall. I really don't like gutters, as I never remember to clean them.

I priced a few options for fascia here is the break down:

1x8x12 cedar $26.72
1x10x12 white pine $18.77
1x8x16 Armor Wood $40.97
1x9.25x12 PVC board $49.97
1x4x12 LP Smart Trim $7.33 (only width they had, could not find anybody who could quote me larger sizes)

I'm thinking 2x6's cut for blockers nail them in, rip some 3/4" PT plywood to cover.

jameswood I like your idea of pushing the edge of the metal past the edge of the wood deck, I could install the drip edge, on the edge. Then let the metal run long. Only question is, if I do that, can I still run gutters if I decide I need them? I dont know how far the roof edge should overhang the gutter.

I guess I could always trim the metal back if I decide to install them. The guy I bought the metal from told me to install a plywood blade on my circular backwards and it will make a clean cut in the metal.

The drip edge I bought hangs down about 3-4" I'm hoping that I can source some color matching steel, to slip under the drip, on the vertical, that has a return that will run under the blocking, so far I havent been able to find a similar green in coil stock. Keith

Personally I would only run metal roof to 1/3 the gutter width past facia, but opinions prob vary on that. Too much and can't get your hand in to clean out...Get some cheap gutter guards or some foam that cover's just the drop holes and then not such a worry as often. Even those cheapo screened plastic gutter guards at Menards are not too bad. I match the type used to what will likely blow in em.

Did you inquire about just lap siding? Most everyone around here carries 12"?

Anyway, if not then blocking and rip some OSB or ply and cover with Alum coil stock. Any remodel or siding/roofing should have a siding brake. Coil stock comes in 50ft rolls 2ft wide and cost around 90.00 so easy to figure what it will take. Most people/places that do any coil stock bending typ have some white on hand or leftover from another job.

Also if it were me I would not cut ends of metal roof off that are to be exposed for rust from the cutting/heat. Better to hide the cuts if possible.

Hell, while you are at it might as well do the soffit in ventillated alum as well if your needing ventilation. Or maybe see whats avail from your sources for vinyl soffit and maybe they stock some prefab facia(?)

I don't keep up on whats avail because I fabricate anything needed myself (nice thing about being in business for decads ya have every tool imaginable :)

Like if they had a pre made vinyl "J" facia 6" tall then put it up first, then take another cut it down to finish the rest and it be covered up by gutter anyway....you know. being resourceful. lol
 
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383 240z

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Dec 4, 2006
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Location
Findley Twp. Allegheny Co.
I cut and installed a bunch of blocking today. I'll be checking with my metal supplier tomorrow on my lunch break. I have to return to the 9-5 tomorrow :sad:

Also got some new exterior lighting up, and the cableing run.

I'm still toying with the idea of using the ground gutter. Anybody here have any first hand knowledge of them? I'm thinking about digging down about 2' running 4" perforated PVC pipe, not that black corrigated stuff. I dont think I'll be worrying about erosion as the front has gravel the full length. The back side is similar. Keith
 
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