Fasteners and Pre-Drilling

[Nineeightyone]

I've been busy building shelving and storage in my garage for a few weeks now (off and on, as weather/work permits) and I've noticed an annoying trend.

I'm building with 2x3s and 3/4" plywood, and I've noticed that if I don't pre-drill the holes in the 2x3s, they tend to split. I'm using 1-1/4" deck screws from Grip Rite to fasten my plywood to the 2x3, and where a pair of 2x3s meet, I've been using 3" deck screws.

Am I dumb (yes)? Is there a different brand of fastener that doesn't require pre-drilling? or is this just the nature of building with 2x3s, where the screw is somewhat large relative to the work material?

I'm not trying to spend a small fortune on fasteners, but as it is I've had to buy a couple more drill bits than I would've expected, given that I'm probably several hundred holes in at the moment (I did my best to overbuild).

Because no thread is worthwhile without pictures (and I'm a little proud of myself):

 

[Bretny]

Shelves look good. 2x3s dont really have alot of meat for anything that could have many pounds of weight over your head. I consider 2x3s just a furring strip.

Take a pic of the screws your useing?

 

[cmandp]

The only thing more I think you can try is some Spax or GRK screws which are pricey but nice.

But it is probably your 2x3s that are the problem, the 2x3s I see around are usually SPF and from what I can tell are actually spruce and they are not very high quality and splinter easily.

 

[matt_i]

GRK would be my choice due to the self-drilling tip, which is also a thread-sawing tip in my estimation. Rather than just being a cone that is driven between the wood fibers, the point with the relief is pre-drilling the hole and the wavy/toothed first threads are sawing a relief for the following threads.

 

[Nineeightyone]

Shelves look good. 2x3s dont really have alot of meat for anything that could have many pounds of weight over your head. I consider 2x3s just a furring strip.

Take a pic of the screws your useing?

Thanks, I'll have to take some pictures when I get home. The middle and upper level shelves are medium-duty at best, with Tapcons holding them to the block walls. I can hang my ~250lbs off of them at any point and they don't move, so I think they'll be alright for general storage.

The only thing more I think you can try is some Spax or GRK screws which are pricey but nice.

But it is probably your 2x3s that are the problem, the 2x3s I see around are usually SPF and from what I can tell are actually spruce and they are not very high quality and splinter easily.

I didn't look extraordinarily closely at the type of wood, so that may be where my issue lies. I'll grab a small box of GRK's next time I'm at the hardware store to try them out, and I'll have to also pay closer attention to the type of wood.

The bottom "shelves" for holding larger/heavier components are pressure treated 2x10s, with a 2x3 in the back for locating. I'll likely finish up what I can with the remaining wood, and since there's a few more things that need built, will look at other materials for those. I'm not all that well educated in lumber choice, what type of wood should I be after for a non-climate controlled garage for storage? Thanks!

 

[CraigStu]

I don't know much about different types of wood either but I am pretty sure yours is the problem. I use a lot of deck screws whenever I build shelves, benches, additional interior walls. I have never had a problem w/ 2x4s splitting from a deck screw. Any pre-drilling I do is usually in the top piece. If there is one reasonably close, it might be worth it to go to a real lumber yard and ask questions vs HD or Lowes.

 

[Bretny]

I woudnt bother with the GRK screws. There way overkill for this project. If you want to spend some money get at least 2x4s.

 

[itsDROCK]

I just built 3 shelves in my basement to hold spray paint cans and other similar sized cans. I used 2x3's bc thats what I had in the scrap pile. I used GRK fasteners. I didn't pre drill and did not have a problem with splitting. I love GRK fasteners and they are worth the money IMO.

 

[vavet]

I believe in pre-drilling. I love the tapered drill bits with the countersink. It makes for a very nice hole.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000225OU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Would a simple washer work? I realize that the head would not be recessed, but does that matter in your application? Predrilling like Vavet mentioned would be best and really wouldn’t add that much time to the project.

 

[theoldwizard1]

First, 2x3s are not likely the "best" quality wood ! They were probably 2x4s that had too much wane so were cut down to 2x3.

There are some screws out there that do have a different shaped tip to better "cut" the wood fiber, but they cost more. Pre-drilling goes faster if you have a drill AND an impact driver so that you are not switching bits.

 

[Nineeightyone]

Would a simple washer work? I realize that the head would not be recessed, but does that matter in your application? Predrilling like Vavet mentioned would be best and really wouldn’t add that much time to the project.

I have no problems with using a washer, my issue is primarily the wood splitting -- maybe I'm just driving them in too hard/too far, and the wider head is causing the split. I've got plenty more to build, so I'll try not being so aggressive on what I have left and go from there.

First, 2x3s are not likely the "best" quality wood ! They were probably 2x4s that had too much wane so were cut down to 2x3.

There are some screws out there that do have a different shaped tip to better "cut" the wood fiber, but they cost more. Pre-drilling goes faster if you have a drill AND an impact driver so that you are not switching bits.

My life changed when I first had a regular drill, a hammerdrill, and the impact driver. I'd predrill my holes in the wood, stick the masonry bit through said hole and drill my hole in concrete, and then drive a Tapcon in with the impact driver. All without ever changing a bit.

I'll have to compare pricing between switching fasteners (I still have two boxes unopened of the Grip Rite screws) and buying a couple more drill bits -- I don't have a sharpener yet, but I would consider one if it were dead easy to do (and didn't cost me an arm and a leg).

 

[67carl]

I'm in the midst of our bedroom remodel. In the past I'd pre-drill but got tired of it, so I decided to try the GRK or Spax screws. Holy cow are they worth the money (Spax from Home Depot). I haven't had a single split yet.

In the pic I'm building frames in a "loft" area of the bedroom that just collects dusk. We're going to put doors on for storage. Can't recommend them enough.

 

[ItsNemo]

It's probably just your 2x3's...depending on how dry they are and the grain and wood species, they will sometimes split really easily.

When I run into wood like that, I just use countersink bits on a second drill to quickly give them a chance. Usually don't need to do more than an inch or so in and a little relief for the head.