Fastening 2x4 to cinderblock

[solo machinist]

we used these on a block home with no issues. After a lot of tear outs with tapcons.

 

[That Guy Scott]

I use the Simpson Titens for concrete screw anchors and the hammer drive pin anchors that Solo Machinist posted above. I avoid Tapcons all together now.

Titen HD®

For use in cracked and uncracked concrete, as well as uncracked masonry. THD can be installed in dry, interior, non-corrosive environments or temporary outdoor applications.

www.strongtie.com

 

[rayra]

If your tapcons are stripping out, you are either overdriving them or using the wrong size masonry drill bit. And some brands come with the right drill bit in the package.

I drove a lot in my grill island project, into concrete-filled CMUs, but they were temporary for form work for casting the concrete counter in place. They worked great for me. I screwed the innermost layer of OSB strips to the walls, then screwed the other layers into the 1st until I built up a 3" overhang. Lot of weight of concrete went into that counter pour, all the strain in the forms screws was in shear. Everything stayed solid for weeks until I pulled the forms off.

I was using mostly the 3" screws with the torx heads.

 

[rayra]

Not to hijack, but what kind of adhesive do you recommend? I may be putting up some foam board in a detached block building this spring. The ceiling and wood framed walls are insulated, but the exterior block walls need something.

I'd use just 100% silicone caulk. It will hold securely to a clean wall and not be irreversible later if something needs to be changed. Unlike most hardier adhesives / poly / epoxies.
But whatever you are putting over the foam should be attached to the wall THRU the foam.

 

[TomC750]

I spent part of the day experimenting. I found I could pull some of the 2x's fastened with the 3/16 Tapcons (no foam on this part of the wall )off the wall with some effort, so I tried something different. I used my nail gun with 3" nails to attach a 2x flat to the wall.
The gun with 120PSI pressure consistently drove the nail in with about 1/8" protruding which I drove home with a hand drilling hammer. I repeated this on Several pieces. I could not pull them off the wall by driving a thin wrecking bar behind it no matter how hard I tried.

Next I tried a different procedure on the other wall with foam behind the 2x's. I drilled the block with the 5/32 drill, used a 4" 20d nail on two different pieces about 2' long. Drove the nails with a framing hammer, they drove in hard, about like the 3 1/2" masonry nails. The masonry nails did not hold well, but the 20d's held like the 3" framing nails did as explained above. I could not pull the board off with a barn door handle screwed to it. I feel confident that I have it made now.

 

[TomC750]

If your tapcons are stripping out, you are either overdriving them or using the wrong size masonry drill bit. And some brands come with the right drill bit in the package.

I drove a lot in my grill island project, into concrete-filled CMUs, but they were temporary for form work for casting the concrete counter in place. They worked great for me. I screwed the innermost layer of OSB strips to the walls, then screwed the other layers into the 1st until I built up a 3" overhang. Lot of weight of concrete went into that counter pour, all the strain in the forms screws was in shear. Everything stayed solid for weeks until I pulled the forms off.

I was using mostly the 3" screws with the torx heads.

I am using the drill that came with the Tapcons. I checked and it is the right size, 3/16 for a 1/4" Tapcon. Half the time they would strip out and still not flush with the board. They would strip just as the head was starting to dimple the board or sooner. If I tried the 5/32 drill they would stall out or snap off. I do suspect all CMU's are not the same.

 

[The Cobbler]

....... also don't over tighten the screws. snug is good

If your tapcons are stripping out, you are either overdriving .............

ahh. trying to countersink the head without drilling the wood for it ...
there lies your issue.

 

[rayra]

as said, not all CMUs are equal and they are pretty fragile in general. I was setting tapcons in concrete-filled block. And I was countersinking my board holes. I was predrilling the boards, using that hole to guide the masonry bit, and using a ryobi driver to set the screws. And going easy on the driver as they got close to flush.
/I needed them flush as I was setting more boards over top of them.

 

[Renegade1LI]

If you want to use regular nails here is a little trick we do in concrete work. Drill the hole slightly larger than the nail, insert a piece of tie wire into the hole & drive the nail in.

 

[nadogail]

RAMSET, Just pull the trigger and your boards are nailed.

 

[TomC750]

ahh. trying to countersink the head without drilling the wood for it ...
there lies your issue.

And what about the ones that snapped or stalled before they got to that point? The 2x's are a bit soft, saw no need to countersink. And then, I did discover that the 3/16 Tapcons were not holding that well either. I can't resist doing a test. I could pull a board off fairly easily with the Tapcons, but try to get one off with the two methods described earlier? I had to cut the heads off the nails with an abrasive cut off wheel. Not only does my method work, but it is cheaper and faster. And I already had Thousands of the power nails and only short a few of the 20d's. Got a lot done today.

More can be learned from failures than successes

 

[TomC750]

If you want to use regular nails here is a little trick we do in concrete work. Drill the hole slightly larger than the nail, insert a piece of tie wire into the hole & drive the nail in.

Yep!

 

[TomC750]

Yep! done it with concrete, did not think about it with block. Thanks.

 

[TomC750]

And what about the ones that snapped or stalled before they got to that point? The 2x's are a bit soft, saw no need to countersink. And then, I did discover that the 3/16 Tapcons were not holding that well either. I can't resist doing a test. I could pull a board off fairly easily with the Tapcons, but try to get one off with the two methods described earlier? I had to cut the heads off the nails with an abrasive cut off wheel. Not only does my method work, but it is cheaper and faster. And I already had Thousands of the power nails and only short a few of the 20d's. Got a lot done today.

More can be learned from failures than successes

Grandson came to help me today He was working on installing the 2x's on top of the foam. He inadvertently installed one of the2x's on the wrong mark. I got my nail puller, grabbed ahold of the nail(20d), extended the handle and hung on it lifting my weight off the floor. Trying further I lifted myself and dropped my weight hard.I did this several times. I weigh less than 180 and grandson comes in at 195. but I declined his offer to try the same thing. I guess the 2x4 stays, I'll install another next to it. We did finish all the exterior studs. I will use the 3/16 Tapcons to secure bottom plates. Thats all folks!

Man fares best in the face of adversity

 

[Farmall450]

I had very good success with tapcons, hammer drill, and impact drill this summer. I don't recall sizes but got drill size as called out on tap on box.

Just get the hex ones and counterbore if you need it flush. Hate the phillips.

 

[The Cobbler]

I find that 3/16 tapcons don't hold all the well in many cases . 1/4" are much more robust

 

[bb29510]

what about those drive pins with the nail to set

secret with tap con, use a screw gun, go in steady and fast, just a couple second, dont try to retighten, dont go slow. once it set, leave it alone

 

[TomC750]

what about those drive pins with the nail to set

secret with tap con, use a screw gun, go in steady and fast, just a couple second, dont try to retighten, dont go slow. once it set, leave it alone

Never tried screw gun, but I do wonder about enough stuff to do the job when an impact driver stalls out somtimes.

I find that 3/16 tapcons don't hold all the well in many cases . 1/4" are much more robust

3/16 Tapcons are fine laterally I believe in concrete such as securing 2x's to floor, but for tall walls in my barn I used Redheads.

 

[bb29510]

you can also drill a hole, and put two nails in it. drill a hole just slight bigger than a 16 penny nail. insert one nail and then drive the other in the same hole

 

[bluedog225]

I’m late. But have had good luck with 1/4 tapcons and a piece of wire or cedar in the 1/4 hole to snug it up. With the ”proper” size hole, I’ve snapped dozens. It gets old.