Fastening trailer decking

[blacknblue]

I picked up a 16ft dove trailer that I am refurbishing and part of that being replacing the deck. It was fastened originally with self tapping screws on the ends and the middle of the deck. The middle screws almost all broke off removing from corrosion. The dove tail the wood was secured with angle iron. Does anyone have any experience using angle iron to secure the main deck planks with out fasteners? It would be much easier just to weld a piece of angle that I could cut out later if I ever needed to replace the deck again. Trying to save my self from drilling 70+ holes through wood and steel then driving new fasteners in.

Fasteners:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Redline/TFX250ACQ.html

 

[zmotorsports]

On my last flatbed car-hauler trailer I used angle iron at the rear of the trailer in which the 2x8's slipped underneath. I then secured them with deck screws at the front and a few spread across the middle but nowhere else. Held up well and boards didn't move or warp. I liked having them under the angle iron at the rear where the tires were more prone to come in contact with the end of the wood planks.

 

[blacknblue]

I'm just wondering if I can get away with no fasteners, or at worst just a row of them in one of the middle cross members. I just don't know if the wood would warp like crazy. Plan on using 2x8 PT yellow pine.

 

[zmotorsports]

I'm just wondering if I can get away with no fasteners, or at worst just a row of them in one of the middle cross members. I just don't know if the wood would warp like crazy. Plan on using 2x8 PT yellow pine.

It can be done successfully. My buddies trailer had angle iron front AND rear. I'm not gonna lie, it was a PITA to install but once we got it installed it never gave him any issues. Again, the hardest part was installation because we wanted to have enough engagement of the planks under each of the two angle irons so we had to slide one under first, then chain/strap the other end to stay down and put a floor jack under the middle to bow the plank up enough to get the front end under the angle. Once the floor jack was lowered the ends protruded under both angles but a major PITA it was. I can't remember 100% but I don't believe he used any fasteners in the middle, or anywhere for that matter.

 

[blacknblue]

It can be done successfully. My buddies trailer had angle iron front AND rear. I'm not gonna lie, it was a PITA to install but once we got it installed it never gave him any issues. Again, the hardest part was installation because we wanted to have enough engagement of the planks under each of the two angle irons so we had to slide one under first, then chain/strap the other end to stay down and put a floor jack under the middle to bow the plank up enough to get the front end under the angle. Once the floor jack was lowered the ends protruded under both angles but a major PITA it was. I can't remember 100% but I don't believe he used any fasteners in the middle, or anywhere for that matter.

That's good to know. If I went the angle rout I just planned on putting a couple of stitch welds down to hold the angle in place after the boards were laid down and just cut them out to remove. Seems so much easier and less time consuming than fasteners.

 

[gungatim]

I built a 5x10 trailer and did not want to use self tappers. 2x6 boards are attached with 1x 4 boards underneath horizontally screwed to each deck board. was easy to do, cheap, and works well. if you just used angle on the ends, no doubt they boards would buckle in the middle as they get wet and dry out/shrink, etc.

 

[sberry]

Price wood before hand too. I found some treated foot material at Menards on sale way cheaper than narrow stuff. I like some screws or usually use carriage bolts as it keeps the planks from a warp and from rattling so bad. Drilling isn't bad as its so easy to lean on the drill in that position. I have a guy top and bottom for bolt up then tighten with air ratchet and have top guy tell when to stop to set bolts.

 

[blacknblue]

Cheapest route I have so far is (11) 2x8x16's cutting 2 ft off then using that for the dove tail. I had a buddy that lives in another state quote me on some lumber. I'm hoping Lowe's or HD will match.

 

[cvairwerks]

When I redecked one of my flat beds, I ran the self tappers in with my big impact. Ran all them in, in less than 20 minutes.

 

[NUTTSGT]

When I did mine years ago, I used regular bolts. My thinking was they would be stronger than carriage bolts. Well none have broke off but every time I scoop something out like stone, I cuss myself when the shovel hits those bolt heads.

Never again would I use regular bolts. Live and learn.

 

[joe49]

Have one welded and one screwed. Welded I used 2 by 2 by 1/4 angle and 1/8 angle on the screwed one.

 

[morrillm06]

95% of the trailers I have seen around here have carriage bolts but not through the metal (usually angle) underneath. They are right next to it with a fender washer so it pinches it down, easier than drilling the metal and also one less place for rust to start

 

[Thumper68]

I didn't read all the responses.

My 18 footer has the 2x6 decking held down front and rear with angle, but I didn't weld it in place I used bolts, only have had to replace the decking once since 95, took the 8 bolts out and dropped the new decking in, re drilled the holes and put in new SS bolts, took all of 30 minutes.

 

[p_mori7]

95% of the trailers I have seen around here have carriage bolts but not through the metal (usually angle) underneath. They are right next to it with a fender washer so it pinches it down, easier than drilling the metal and also one less place for rust to start

^^^
This

 

[p_mori7]

When I did mine years ago, I used regular bolts. My thinking was they would be stronger than carriage bolts. Well none have broke off but every time I scoop something out like stone, I cuss myself when the shovel hits those bolt heads.

Never again would I use regular bolts. Live and learn.

Counter-sink the heads next time ?

Check outer diameter of your socket, and use a spade that is same diameter or slightly larger. The center point of the spade makes a nice pilot hole for the drill bit afterwards.

 

[blacknblue]

I didn't read all the responses.

My 18 footer has the 2x6 decking held down front and rear with angle, but I didn't weld it in place I used bolts, only have had to replace the decking once since 95, took the 8 bolts out and dropped the new decking in, re drilled the holes and put in new SS bolts, took all of 30 minutes.

Awesome! That's what I want to hear! Any reason you re-drilled the holes?

 

[Thumper68]

Awesome! That's what I want to hear! Any reason you re-drilled the holes?

Sorry, to clarify, I drilled new holes in the new wood, using the already drilled angle as a template.

 

[blacknblue]

10-4

 

[CJM8515]

I bolted (was to lazy to weld) 3 pcs of angle iron to my trailer. Front, middle and rear, my trailer is made of 2x2 tubing so it was easy. Then I drilled up into the boards in some pre drilled holes for the boards and used carriage bolts. Easy peasy.

Another cool trick to prevent rust from forming between the boards and metal is to stick some roofing singles between them before you bolt the boards down. Previous owner of my trailer did it-no rust.

 

[matt_i]

I have a gooseneck built with the self tappers, I think the best thing to do (was!) to run them all out with an impact driver, coat threads in anti-seize paste, and then screw back in. They seem to be decent fasteners but I'm fairly certain they are rusty now.

 

[Notgrownup]

I just re painted my 15 year old Hurst 5x8 with new deck boards, used self tapping screws. Just like it came from the factory...

 

[NUTTSGT]

Counter-sink the heads next time ?

Check outer diameter of your socket, and use a spade that is same diameter or slightly larger. The center point of the spade makes a nice pilot hole for the drill bit afterwards.

No, that's too much work. Next time will be either carriage bolts or self tappers.

 

[MagKarl]

I re-decked my 20' using the floor jack in the middle method. Worked great to bow the boards enough to slip under the steel on the ends.

I then used 2 Torx drive flat head self tapping trailer decking screws per board to keep the spacing even after shrinkage.

 

[blacknblue]

I picked up some angle. I'm going to angle each end and fasten them through the wood with some of the self tappers I linked before. If I start to see warping in the middle I will screw a board across from the bottom. Thanks for the input everyone!

 

[racer-john]

Very timely, as I am about to re-deck my trailer after some slight re-alignment
of the frame. I am using some of the undamaged 3/4" plywood to make a 5'X 3'
Sandblasting box.

 

[JerryC]

Based on past experience trying to get rusted carriage bolts out and just having them spin in the wood I recently tried anti-spin washers under the heads of the bolts.

http://wedo.hillmangroup.com/item/specialty-washers/anti-turn-washers-hot-dipped-galvanized/290302

 

[KenS]

One tip: If you're using treated wood for the deck, be sure your fasteners are designed to to be compatible with the wood treatment. Plain steel fasteners -- self-tappers, bolts, etc. -- will quickly corrode when in contact with treated wood, especially if they're
exposed to the weather.

Proper fasteners can be a little pricey, put they are worth it.

 

[blacknblue]

Ken, the fasteners I linked at the beginning of the thread are the ones I'm using. The are designed to work with acm.

 

[allenb12]

i have built a half dozen trailers. 5x8 to 8x16. used 2x6 treated for all the decks. All but one were hls in place by welded angles. The last one I built I bolted the angles on with 3 1/2" bolts each.

 

[brewchief]

My trailer had the welded angle, it worked ok but the boards rattled.

I redid the deck a couple years ago and cut the angle off and made it bolt on at the back. I also screwed into every other crossmember with these screws, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-12-...-Self-Drilling-Screws-40-Pack-21384/100145370

So far so good, deck is flat and doesn't rattle.

 

[4EyedTurd]

Do you think it adds strength or rigidity if you screwed down each board at every brace? Would it be worth the time?

 

[bugnut]

I skipped the angle and used 1/4 x 4 flat stock, tack welded at both front and rear of trailer . Been about 10 years boards are okay and thought is to grind off weld on rear plate when time comes to replace boards. Leave a gap between the boards, so when they swell as pt lumber does there is a little room.

 

[mrolds88]

Redid my trailer a few years ago. 2x6 PT and used 1/4 flathead trailer deck screws on every crossmember. Should last for another 15-20 years.

 

[blacknblue]

Finally got it done. Just used angle with ACQ rated self tapping screws.

 

[cweidert03]

Trailer looks really good!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[blacknblue]

Trailer looks really good!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you!