Favorite Alloy For Auto Body Work.

[Offcenter12]

I have a project that isn't anywhere near a build thread so I won't go into that, but definitely will be doing panel repair. The little I've found usually lists 1018 or 1020 CRS and for some reason I'm drawn to the 1020 though not sure I can even get it from local suppliers here in Seattle. Is there a favorite from all the excellent sheet metal work I've seen on here? I'll be doing mostly floor boards, toe boards, and maybe wheel arches if I get adventurous.
Thanks, John.

 

[metlmunchr]

Typical commercial cold rolled sheet is 1008 which is a very low carbon steel. 1018 and 1020 are bar stock designations for the most part with a higher carbon content. The higher carbon content is not a desirable characteristic in sheet steel where one of the primary characteristics users are looking for is formability.

The ideal sheet for body work is 1008 AKDQ (aluminum killed drawing quality) which has tightly controlled chemistry to produce the best formabilityand weldability. The second choice would be 1008 commercial quality, sometimes called 1008 type B.

The drawing quality sheet is sometimes difficult to find in small quantities. Auto makers use AKDQ for body panels and other manufacturers of similar stamped and drawn products use it as well. About the only thing you can do is inquire of your local steel suppliers to see if anyone in your area stocks it. If not, its no big deal as you wouldn't be doing any deep drawing in normal body repairs. Most any supplier should have the 1008 type B. If metal supermarkets has a store in your area, they would be a good source for the type B material.

I would avoid resellers for the most part who sell anything from nuts and bolts to light bulbs as I've seen more than a few who advertise sheet metal in grades that would only be available in mill run quantities, likely because they don't have anyone knowledgable enough on staff to know the difference.

 

[Offcenter12]

Thank you Metlmunchr, that clears up a few things. There are two suppliers fairly close and a Metal Supermarket a little farther out that carry A366/1008, though not the AKDQ. Should be fine for what I'm doing.

Thanks, John

 

[toplessHO]

I save older flat body panels to cut pieces out of,hoods,decklids ,door etc.
Avoid anything foreign or after the 70s.

 

[HMCFab9]

AK sheetmetal is hard to find in small quantities, but it sure is nice if you can get it.
Regular sheet is fine for most applications though.

 

[lilredex]

I use the sides and backs off of washers,dryers, stoves, etc, for a lot of projects.....free.

 

[Bopbop]

If you are only needing a small amount of metal search online for the AK sheet metal. If is worth it.

 

[matt_i]

I was looking at some 14ga which is beefy for auto body...but Alro metals has the AKDQ material in their catalog. The 14ga in CR 1011 P&O is around .50/lb while the AKDQ is $1.28/lb.

 

[dr_clyde]

Only on GJ do we have in the same thread some guys recommending AKDQ sheet and others the backs of old appliances for the same job haha.

 

[MP&C]

You’ll find most automotive sheetmetal is 19 gauge. I have about half dozen sheets of AKDQ, if you were only closer. I do have some contacts in PNW that could likely find some for you. But first things first, grab a set of calipers and see what thickness is on your project car. But I would try and get as close as you can to the same thickness as possible. It will give you better consistency in fitment, welding, planishing, etc.

 

[Offcenter12]

Thanks to everyone who replied!

Robert - Went out to the vehicle after work with my 0-1 mic and can confirm it's pretty much 19 gauge. Hard to tell between the old paint and the rust, but was .042 in a couple spots where it was actually flat.

Thanks, John

 

[MP&C]

Let me know if you want me to make some calls.

 

[metlmunchr]

18 gauge is only about .006" thicker than 19 gauge, assuming both are rolled to theoretical thickness. But, because the stiffness of the sheet is a cubic (3rd power) function of thickness, 18 is right at 50% stiffer than 19.

Stiffer is good if you're building a wheelbarrow, but not so much for shaping body panels and patches.

 

[sberry]

I like a gauge heavier, makes it easier to weld and holds bends and fits a little better. A little bit is the intent,,, is it a perfect restore or a repair? I like appliance sheet too if it will work, its already finished so well.

 

[Offcenter12]

Apologize for overthinking this, but analysis paralysis is my specialty. Considering Metlmunchr's last comment, would 18 gauge be better for the floorboards and toe boards? Those areas are basically a wheelbarrow.Then use 19 for the external body pieces? Appreciate all responses.

Robert - Appreciate your offer and will take you up on it once I figure out what I'm looking for.

Thanks,
John

 

[astroracer]

I am using 16ga. for everything (mostly) in my '56 wagon rust repairs. Of course most everything I am replacing, panel wise, is available aftermarket. The 16ga. worked well for inner cowl, lower A & B pillar patches and fender lip repairs.
A few pics for inspiration.

Totally rebuilt the inner cowl area with the 16ga.

Mark

 

[MP&C]

Check your car and you'll likely see that floor pans aren't typically any thicker than the rest of the car. They just have ribs put in them to add the strength and support. If you do need to add these features, 19 is a bit easier to work than 18. And AKDQ is easier over cold rolled.

 

[Bears Fan]

Awesome information here guys

 

[Offcenter12]

Let me know if you want me to make some calls.

Hi Robert,
Don't want this offer to slip by, but with all the craziness going on thought I'd better respond that I'm definitely interested once things calm down. Hope you're weathering the storm safely.

Thanks,
John