Feed for new garage

[CanuckGT]

I have a underground feed going to my well pump ,then it continues to a small, 8 stall campground that feeds 8 , 30 amp services.The feed is fed from a panel at the power source ( 200 amp) ,one line to my home and one to the well,campground.

My question is , I want to feed the main service into my new garage then continue on to the campground, as well ,supply a curciut to the well shack .

I am just about ready to pour the pad and was wondering if I should put in a electrical conduit ( a 90 deg) up into the garage before concrete or , what I was planning, is a outside connection on the exterior wall, that feeds the new breaker panel in the garage and also carries on to the campground....like a junction panel of sorts..

What is the proper way to do this?

Thanks!

 

[jeff000]

I'm not sure I get what you are actually saying.

So the line to well/campground will come from your new garage. And the old line to the well/campground to your new garage.

You'll need to do a new feed both way from the new garage as you will come up short.

I like stubbing up with pvc, if you do this have an in and an out. But using an LB on the exterior to get inside is fine too.

Or are you wanting to T tap into your existing line?

 

[Falcon67]

I'd put in a 2" sweep with a stub up through the slab where the box will go. Also be sure to stub up rebar for a UFER ground and/or put 20' of #4 copper in the slab and stub that up for the box. Put the end of the sweep at least 18" down if it's not crossing a drive or some such. Easier to hit a breaker box from a straight shot under it with 100A, 200A, whatever cable than to try and bend it through an LB. If you do conduit, use the heavy gray plastic for electrical. The concrete won't attack the plastic.

 

[jeff000]

I'd put in a 2" sweep with a stub up through the slab where the box will go. Also be sure to stub up rebar for a UFER ground and/or put 20' of #4 copper in the slab and stub that up for the box. Put the end of the sweep at least 18" down if it's not crossing a drive or some such. Easier to hit a breaker box from a straight shot under it with 100A, 200A, whatever cable than to try and bend it through an LB. If you do conduit, use the heavy gray plastic for electrical. The concrete won't attack the plastic.

CEC in general you only ground the main unless it's for livestock.
NEC ***** to look anything up so I am not sure, but something to look into.

 

[Gooch]

CEC in general you only ground the main unless it's for livestock.
NEC ***** to look anything up so I am not sure, but something to look into.

NEC:

Main panel: Ground and Neutral bonded UFER ground(rebar) and you're done(no rebar, there are other methods for grounding electrodes)

Sub-Panel:

In same building as Main: 4 wire feed from main keeping the neutral and ground seperate, you're done

Detached building: same as above but requires a grounding electrode

 

[CanuckGT]

I'm not sure I get what you are actually saying.

So the line to well/campground will come from your new garage. And the old line to the well/campground to your new garage.

You'll need to do a new feed both way from the new garage as you will come up short.

I like stubbing up with pvc, if you do this have an in and an out. But using an LB on the exterior to get inside is fine too.

Or are you wanting to T tap into your existing line?

From my transformer it goes to a panel,on the power pole,one feed goes to my home(underground) and one goes to my well shack (well in no longer used) ,also underground,from the well shack it continues on to our 8 stall campground breaker panel.

So I plan on disconnecting the well shack all together and bringing the feed from the transformer to my new garage,feeding a new breaker panel for the garage as well as a 120v feed back to the well shack . The main power cable then continues on to the campground feed.