Feedback/comments on panel replacement

[Mike1903]

Did extensive reading and asked few questions here….finally it is done.
wanted to share some pics and get some thoughts on if anything looks off that I should address before wrapping up the project.
Bottom left is for future interlock.
Top right is for future ev hookup (spare connection in the garage after water heater was switch over to natural gas).

i replaced breakers like for like and will be switching over to AFCI/GFCI one circuit at a time as needed.

thx!

 

[Mike1903]

More

 

[Innovate1]

I see that this is a 200A main and the green grounding screw is in place so is this the main panel or a subpanel? I am guessing the main and those look right for the main panel. The only thing I see is some individual conductors below the panel that don't look like they are in an enclosure - if that's the case it's an issue.

 

[Mike1903]

I see that this is a 200A main and the green grounding screw is in place so is this the main panel or a subpanel? I am guessing the main and those look right for the main panel. The only thing I see is some individual conductors below the panel that don't look like they are in an enclosure - if that's the case it's an issue.

Thank you.
yes, it’s the main panel. Neutral is connected to the lug on the bottom right and the grounding screw (green) is on the bottom left. It is a design flaw in Eaton panels where the right side lug cannot be grounded and service entrance cable wasn’t long enough to reach to the bottom left lug. Had Eaton tech support involved as well. (Recall that the panel is turned 180 degrees).

the individual conductors towards the bottom is a spare circuit as the 220v cooktop got replaced with a gas stove. I was planning to pull those cables down to the crawlspace and leave for any future needs.

 

[sparky 1971]

the individual conductors towards the bottom is a spare circuit as the 220v cooktop got replaced with a gas stove. I was planning to pull those cables down to the crawlspace and leave for any future needs.

You can put the wires in the panel and not hook them up to anything. They just have to be labeled as to what they are and where they go. It might be a pita to try to get them from the crawlspace into the panel in the future if you patch up the wall.

 

[sparky 1971]

i replaced breakers like for like and will be switching over to AFCI/GFCI one circuit at a time as needed.

thx!

I wouldn't bother wasting the time, money, or effort with AFCI breakers unless you like going to the panel to reset them for what appears to be no reason.

 

[Norcal]

AFCI's are not required for panel swaps unless you extend the circuits or add outlets.

 

[Terry D]

I don't want to be nit picky here, but I personally would have took the grounding electrode conductor to the open lug on the bottom left of the neutral buss and not the ground bar. I know, electrically its all the same thing, but I got called out on it once and just got in the habit of doing it that way.

Great job!

 

[Mike1903]

I don't want to be nit picky here, but I personally would have took the grounding electrode conductor to the open lug on the bottom left of the neutral buss and not the ground bar. I know, electrically its all the same thing, but I got called out on it once and just got in the habit of doing it that way.

Great job!

Thanks!
I had thought about that; one limiting factor was the length of existing wires: that’s why you see some gaps in the breakers as i wanted to minimize splices.

 

[Bert_]

I don't want to be nit picky here, but I personally would have took the grounding electrode conductor to the open lug on the bottom left of the neutral buss and not the ground bar. I know, electrically its all the same thing, but I got called out on it once and just got in the habit of doing it that way.

Great job!

I'm not a fan of doing that. Grounding electrode conductor doesn't need a lug that big so no reason to use it. Nice to leave it for future use.

 

[Terry D]

I'm not a fan of doing that. Grounding electrode conductor doesn't need a lug that big so no reason to use it. Nice to leave it for future use.

I agree. But I never, or never see anyone hardly run copper for the GEC. So that #2 aluminum for 200 amp isn't going to fit on that ground bar without a crows foot or something similar.

 

[Mike1903]

Thanks all.
The new panel is a lot roomier than the 40 year old split bus Square D panel and was also able to fix many of the hacks that previous owners had done to add circuits.

Good points regarding how much pain AFCIs breakers are. It is hard to find GFCI only version at big boxes and prices are a lot higher at supply stores. I am selectively adding where needed (eg circuit to the washer in the garage had no protection and that’s where you see the only AFCI/GFCI that I have).

Right now, the panel is grounded via copper cable to the cold water pipe which AFAIK is code compliant. Should I leave it as is or replace with grounding rods?
Thx

 

[mcbane]

I agree. But I never, or never see anyone hardly run copper for the GEC. So that #2 aluminum for 200 amp isn't going to fit on that ground bar without a crows foot or something similar.

I have never seen a GEC that isn't copper. How do you connect an aluminum GEC to the grounding electrode, without letting the aluminum GEC come within 18" of the dirt or concrete foundation?

 

[Terry D]

I have never seen a GEC that isn't copper. How do you connect an aluminum GEC to the grounding electrode, without letting the aluminum GEC come within 18" of the dirt or concrete foundation?

Its pretty common here. Our GEC goes to the water pipe where it comes in through the foundation. It doesn't even see the outside. It is connected with a water pipe clamp. I use XHHW because it has a jacket. We also install a ground rod out side off the meter base. for that we use a #6 solid copper. It is there for lightning strikes

 

[sparky 1971]

Thanks all.
The new panel is a lot roomier than the 40 year old split bus Square D panel and was also able to fix many of the hacks that previous owners had done to add circuits.

Good points regarding how much pain AFCIs breakers are. It is hard to find GFCI only version at big boxes and prices are a lot higher at supply stores. I am selectively adding where needed (eg circuit to the washer in the garage had no protection and that’s where you see the only AFCI/GFCI that I have).

Just install a gfci receptacle at the point of use.

Right now, the panel is grounded via copper cable to the cold water pipe which AFAIK is code compliant. Should I leave it as is or replace with grounding rods?
Thx

Leave it, but you should also have two ground rods spaced at least 6' apart with a minimum of a #6 copper wire tying them together and to the panel. We have an ordnance requiring a #4 for the rods due to those damned weed eaters

 

[Bert_]

Its pretty common here. Our GEC goes to the water pipe where it comes in through the foundation. It doesn't even see the outside. It is connected with a water pipe clamp. I use XHHW because it has a jacket. We also install a ground rod out side off the meter base. for that we use a #6 solid copper. It is there for lightning strikes

Must still install a lot of copper water lines? Nobody here has ran a metal water line in the last 30 years, lots of 3/4 or 1" poly.

 

[Terry D]

Must still install a lot of copper water lines? Nobody here has ran a metal water line in the last 30 years, lots of 3/4 or 1" poly.

Yep. All the new ones are still copper. Amazing how stuff is done differently across the country