Feeder Wire options

[77bbod]

Hi,

My detached garage currently has two different UF feeders that are 10/2 and the other is 10/3. I want to eliminate that and just run 6/3 so I can feed it off a 60A breaker from the house into a new panel in the garage. I can't route it the same as the old so I need to route it a new way.

My question is what wire type can I use that will be allowed behind the walls in the house/garage, through a crawlspace, and buried. Along with that what would I need to run this wire in at the minimum at the various locations to make it code worthy

 

[walrus]

My question is what wire type can I use that will be allowed behind the walls in the house/garage, through a crawlspace, and buried. Along with that what would I need to run this wire in at the minimum at the various locations to make it code worthy

Type UF, might need to protect it if exposed

 

[rhandwor]

Go to Home Depot or Lowe's explain the amps and what its used for. They will cut to length for you. Normally 18 inch burial and in conduit if exposed along side a wall. Don't drive nails in the wire when paneling. Use metal straps over it if going close to a wall. You can buy copper or aluminum use nolox paste if using aluminum. You either need to drive an 8 foot ground rod for the garage panel or run a ground from the house panel.

 

[77bbod]

So if its behind the wall no conduit is needed? I was under the impression from reading posts that it needed conduit inside a house for some reason. Does it need conduit in the crawlspace? Is that considered exposed? So basically you're saying I only need conduit going in and out of the ground but once inside the house or garage it can hang by itself?

Another question is about bringing in the ground. I realize I need to drive a couple rods and run #6 from those to the subpanel. Look at my diagram and see if this would be correct because the 2 different ground busses confuse me. One seems unnecessary. My question is where does the wire from the grounding rod attach to? I put it on the big allen screw in the diagram and then the ground (labeled G-wire brought in from house) from the main panel I put it on the bar itself. I guess I would tie the 2 ground bars together even though they are connected by the bond screw. I am leaving the neutral bus unbonded as shown. Thoughts?

http://www.box.net/shared/odjkx4pyzz[\img]

[url]http://www.box.net/shared/odjkx4pyzz[/url]

Thanks!

 

[mrb]

at the garage you will have the neutral bar in the panel, where the neutrals go. Do not install the bonding screw, this bus bar needs to be isolated from the panel.

The ground bar thats connected directly to the can gets the wire from the ground rod, the ground going back to the house, and the grounds for your circuits you run out of the panel.

 

[77bbod]

I have 2 ground bars not including the neutral. I understand it is to be isolated. I just don't know why I have 2 separate ground bars. See the picture and see what I mean. I guess what I am asking is does it really matter where/what bar the both the house ground and ground rod attaches to. If I understood why there are 2 ground bars I guess I wouldn't ask this question! lol

 

[walrus]

It looks like the bar you indicate the ground rod is attached to is insulated from the can? It shouldn't be, maybe there is a screw thru the bar into the can? if thats the case don't worry about it. You'll be bringing a ground from your main panel, land it there also.

 

[mrb]

not familiar with that panel so im not sure why it has the extra ground bar. On first look, i thought it was a split neutral, then i saw the equipment ground only label for the left side.

 

[77bbod]

It looks like the bar you indicate the ground rod is attached to is insulated from the can? It shouldn't be, maybe there is a screw thru the bar into the can? if thats the case don't worry about it. You'll be bringing a ground from your main panel, land it there also.

Correct, the one ground bar that is on the plastic does have a screw through bonding it to the can. I bought this new from Lowes and it came with 2 ground bars. It just throws me off and I wasn't sure if I was supposed to do something with it.

 

[mrb]

It looks like the bar you indicate the ground rod is attached to is insulated from the can? It shouldn't be, maybe there is a screw thru the bar into the can? if thats the case don't worry about it. You'll be bringing a ground from your main panel, land it there also.

you can see the green bonding screw by the lug. You can also see the holes for one by the neutral lugs.

use your ohmmeter to make sure the neutral bar isnt connected to the can. Something seems wierd to me on this one.

 

[77bbod]

you can see the green bonding screw by the lug. You can also see the holes for one by the neutral lugs.

use your ohmmeter to make sure the neutral bar isnt connected to the can. Something seems wierd to me on this one.

I just checked it. It's isolated. I bought this from lowes for 57 bones and it came with a main and 4 20A breakers. Sounded like a decent deal so I took it. What is up with the 2 lugs on the neutra also?

Again, from a previous question...does UF cable need conduit in the crawlspace under the house? Thanks for all the comments

 

[walrus]

Correct, the one ground bar that is on the plastic does have a screw through bonding it to the can. I bought this new from Lowes and it came with 2 ground bars. It just throws me off and I wasn't sure if I was supposed to do something with it.

I didn't know you could buy a panel set up to be a subpanel like that?? The GE panels I've used have 2 bars like that but they are connected together. Take the connector piece out, put a screw thru one bar into the can and away you go, one grd bar, one neutral bar. No gnd bar off to the side like that.

 

[77bbod]

Anyone know if UF cable needs conduit in the crawlspace?

 

[walrus]

Anyone know if UF cable needs conduit in the crawlspace?

It doesn't assuming no physical damage issues.