Felt, Roll roofing, install questions

[FIRE UP]

Gents,
Been a while since I been here. First off, not sure if this would be the right place to ask these questions but, for lack of finding a better source, I thought I'd try this board. I've got a simple roof to re-roof. It's a patio that's 12' x 28'. It has a really slight slant but, at least it's there. I put the roof on it 16 years ago and it's been slowly deteriorating over time. Obviously, it was not done correctly.

Well, that leads me to the present time. I've removed and replaced all the bad sheeting and, installed new drip edge. According to all the youtube "install videos" of felt, they don't show the detail in the corners where one would start. And, do you overhang the edge of the roof a tad or, simply have it back from the edge of the drip edge a tad. And, since my roof is almost level, should I put any kind of mastick "Under" the edge of the paper, as it sits on the top of the drip edge?

I would have created more slope but, it was like that when I moved in and all I did was re-sheet it and install paper and roll roofing. It had 1" x 6" pine an inch apart, sort of a shade patio. I tore all that off an installed "T-111", 5/8" thick w/ 8" on center grooves, upside down. It looks way cool. Well, it lasted 17 years, sort of. What ever anyone can help here with any kind of info, I surely would appreciate it. I bought enough roll roofing and paper (30# felt) for the whole thing and, a gallon or two of an adhesive for the overlapping seams of the roll roofing and, some mastic or I should say "Asphalt Emulsion" for sealing other parts. Should I use that asphalt emulsion as a thin layer, just under the bottom of the felt, all along the felt, on top of the drip edge so the water can't creep up and under the felt?

I can get pictures if needed, if that would help. Thanks and, oh by the way, if this does not belong on this forum, please inform me and tell me where to go with it.
Scott

 

[Falcon67]

The best thing for a semi-flat roof - and I've had several - is hot tar mop with roll roofing over it. If you try to stick with paper, then you should spring for the synthetic self-stick underlayment. It's about $220 a roll, which covers around 200~250' depending. For your Q about the flashing, the eve flashing goes under the underlayment and the rake flashing goes over the underlayment. You can let it fly about 1/4" at the eve and it should be under the flashing on the rake, so a little wrap around the sheathing is fine. Shingles on a standard roof overshoot the edges 1/4~1/2". If you go with underlayment+roll roofing, then yes - you probably should mastic the edges back at least 6" all around. That's my gut feel without doing further research.

 

[58Yeoman]

My last house had an attached carport that was a bit larger than yours. The roll roofing had fallen apart, so I pulled it all up, repaired the sheeting and put down metal roofing. I remember the width being 17', and I had to special order the roofing at Menard's so I wouldn't have any seams. It should last forever.

 

[6768rogues]

The felt should go on top of the drip edge at the bottom of the roof and under the rake edge along the sides. It should be flush. Roll roofing should overhang about a quarter of an inch. Roll roofing only lasts about ten years. There are base sheet-cap sheet installations that are longer lasting. Metal would work and last a long time.

 

[FIRE UP]

Thanks guys,
Thanks for taking the time to read this and respond. While I've done some roofing in my life, and some things are obvious in terms of how it's done, some things I just don't know about. Yes, I'd like to have done a "Hot mop" job on the whole thing but, for a company, even a small one, to set up and get everything in place for such a small roof, I think that most of them would shine it on. Don't know for sure though.

I've seen that "self sticking" stuff too, that stuff looks like it would do the job but, I looked it up and yes, it's over $200 a roll and that's a bit out of my price range so, I'll have to go with the 30# I already bought. So, some gluing down around the edges is in order huh? Well, I can handle that. Hey, it lasted for 16-17 years before, if it goes for the same amount of time with this fix, I'll be happy. Thanks again guys. Very much appreciated.
Scott

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Shingle manufacturers will not warranty any install on a roof with less than a 3/12 pitch unless there is a membrane or a torch-down subroofing (torch-down can be a stand alone roofing- but usually doesn't look well on a shed roof when the main body roof is shingles). Anything else is just spit in the wind or luck.

 

[Nick M]

You can also install EPDM membrane with glue directly to the sheathing, it's like contact cement, and a different lap cement for the overlaps, then cualk seams. You can get it cut to size too. You need 2 people at least to lay down. However, if you do not want to do this I would suggest using Grace Ice and Water or similar product on the entire roof, directly adhered to the sheathing, overlapping seams as recommended on the box. Then install your shingles over that. overlap the drip edge 3/8 to 1/2, 3/4 if no drip edge. I would suggest an architectural shingle rather than the roll roof anyway, I don't like the one-ply stuff.

As a side note, for underlayment paper, 15lb and half dollars do just fine.

 

[Falcon67]

> I would suggest an architectural shingle rather than the roll roof anyway, I don't like the one-ply stuff.

Just a note - our almost flat patio roof at the ex-house was hot mopped and roll roofed in 1999 after a big hail storm. All roofing on the house was replaced at that time. The roof on the house was replaced again in 2006 after yet another mondo hail storm but the roll roof deck had no damage and was deemed good to go. It is still working well.

 

[SmokeyDP]

I'm actually in the same boat as you, as I just built a 14x19 roof over a 12x17 porch. The roof has a 1/12 pitch and is about 7" off the top of the deck at it's lowest part. After looking at all the roofing options, the roofer I went with is going with a roller rubber roof. It's a cold application that is going on top of a 1/2" foam board. They have been installing it on all the buildings and schools around here that have flat roofs. I was told that my roof isn't steep enough for metal roofing. It's supposed to go on next week and the roof is the only part that is not DIY by me.

I've also been trying to figure out my options for the fascia around the sides. In the end I am going to use the 6" aluminum fascia that Home Depot sells, then attach the drip edge to the front for the gutter.

Do you have any pictures of the inside ceiling with the T-111? I'm trying to figure out what I'm going to put on the inside ceiling.

I debated doing a build thread in the Gallery, but I'm not sure if this is the right place. I still might after I'm done. Here's where I am at:

 

[chickenhauler]

> I would suggest an architectural shingle rather than the roll roof anyway, I don't like the one-ply stuff.

Just a note - our almost flat patio roof at the ex-house was hot mopped and roll roofed in 1999 after a big hail storm. All roofing on the house was replaced at that time. The roof on the house was replaced again in 2006 after yet another mondo hail storm but the roll roof deck had no damage and was deemed good to go. It is still working well.

I would never have thought roll roofing would hold up that well in the SW heat. Maybe it's the winters here that does it in so quick?

 

[chickenhauler]

I've also been trying to figure out my options for the fascia around the sides. In the end I am going to use the 6" aluminum fascia that Home Depot sells, then attach the drip edge to the front for the gutter.

Doesn't the rubber roof usually just wrap down and serve as fascia too? Gutters would hide most of it, and you'd save a good bit without having to buy aluminum drip edge and fascia.

 

[SmokeyDP]

Doesn't the rubber roof usually just wrap down and serve as fascia too? Gutters would hide most of it, and you'd save a good bit without having to buy aluminum drip edge and fascia.

It's supposed to lay flat but sticking over the edges like any other roofing. The gutter will be on the front, but I still need something for the two sides. I'm looking at about $50 in fascia.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...talogId=10053&productId=100062038&R=100062038

 

[Falcon67]

I would never have thought roll roofing would hold up that well in the SW heat. Maybe it's the winters here that does it in so quick?

I dunno - surprised me too. Roofing company looked at it and insurance would have covered it, but roofers said looks just fine, lets leave it as is. It's dark gray and that house roof is near white but you can't see the flat from the street anyway. It's also exposed fully to the sun all day, never much in shade. Nothing special about the structure - it was about 18' x 25, made from 2x4s with what looked like 1/2" ply on the top and bottom. Someone tried to paper and mud the joints like drywall - that was a fail. I did not build it, it was there when we bought the house and was tied into it so we kept it. I did have to cut 2' off the end to fix a bunch of dry rot and build a good size beam to support the free end, but it was OK other than that. Not the way I'd have done it but it hasn't fallen down yet.