Fence nails question

[b7labelle]

Hi everyone...I plan on building a picket fence this spring and am trying to determine what type of nail/screw I should use. If I end up using a nail, it should be a galvanized ring shank, which leads to another question: is there a recommended style of galvanized/ring shank nail? All I can find are roofing nails.

Also...I've read some complaints about galvanized nails staining the wood? Any thoughts on this? I also plan on applying a stain when I am complete.

If I end up using screws, I probably should head down to the local Home Depot and see if they have any of those Ryobi 1+ batteries BOGO left.

Thanks in advance.

 

[KEH]

Oak lunber has an acid in it which stains the wood and rusts the nail. Galvanized nails will not do this. Red Cedar, for example, will not do this. Short answer: I reccommend galvanized nails or screws or lag bolts. Not familiar with all the types of screws presently availiable. Oh, pressure treated lumber has salts in it that will rust plain nails or screws quickly.

KEH

 

[srmofo]

I used those torx coated screws.

Nails are quicker with a gun, but generally dont hold as well over time.

A screw gun with the auto feed/screws on a ribbon would have made the whole process a lot quicker, but Im happy with my results and I dont think those screws are rated for pressure treated lumber.

2 screw guns helped speed up the process with one set up for pre drilling the stringers.

I pull a string from each corner for each row of stringers. This keeps them straight down the run. Then I start by installing 1 picket at each corner then pulling a string tight over the top of them. This allowed me to go down the line and just **** the picket up to the string. I kept them vertical by quickly checking with a level every couple of pickets. you'll find that the pickets were cut by a 4th grader in some third world country and as such are not very square/straight so some adjustment is needed as you go down the line.

I also like to work in from both directions so your small/last board is hidden in the middle of the run somewhere.

 

[b7labelle]

Great, thanks guys. I think I'll take the screw approach, they'll probably be better in the long run.

Ended up getting lucky and found a pair of the Ryobi batteries for $99 bucks at the 2nd nearest HD. Now to shop screws...

 

[theoldwizard1]

In general, when hanging pickets, you want "box" nail (a.k.a. siding nails). They have a thinner shank than a stamdard nail, like a finish nail, but a "standard" size head. Hot dip galvanized is a must as is ring or "twisted" shank.

IIRC, I bought a 5 lb box of Maze box/siding nails from HD.

Screws will cost a LOT MORE !

EDIT : Screws are larger in diameter and more likely to split the thin pickets.

 

[Andybull]

I use my Passlode with galvanized ring shank nails. When I'm doing fence repairs I will use SS nails with either square drive, or torx.

 

[AZ Pete]

In each run, set the end pickets temporarily, then the center picket. Then work toward each end, making the final end pickets the narrow ones. When looking at a fence, your eye is drawn to the center, don't want a skinny picket there where everyone will notice it. Also make as simple jig to space your pickets, it will speed your job along. Check plumb every 3 to 5 pickets, or as you feel comfortable with.

 

[jkwilson]

Consider how you will repaint the fence. If you use box nails or screws, you can pull the pickets and paint them much more easily. Just mark them as you pull them.

 

[scottydosnntkno]

Look online for a picket spacer calculator. You put in your stringer length, picket width, and desired spacing and it'll layout the measurements to the edge of each picket. Say you want a 3" spacing, it'll calculate it to 2-7/8 based on your stringer length. Your eye will not not is the variation of 1/8" spacing between fence sections, and you won't end up with any skinny pickets

Oh, and on mind I used full head ring shanked framing nails. hd had them in 2" length