Fence sections leaning into each other

[stickshift]

The short section of vinyl fence on the left butts up against neighbors wood fence but is not connected to it. This section and the gate lean toward the section with the gate latch. The section with gate latch is about 3x as long as the section on the left, and butts up against the house, and leans toward the gate. Neither lean is large, but since they lean toward each other, the top of the gate makes contact with the top of the latch section of fence (circled in red).

I've been adjusting the nut on the upper hinge (circled in orange) over the years. It's hard to see in pic, but the nut on upper hinge is in quite a bit further than nut on bottom hinge, and now I've run out of room - any tighter and the fastener heads on the brackets run into each other as the gate is being closed. So I need a more long-term fix. The posts are set in concrete.

Maybe remove the gate, then rig something up such that I can use a farm jack to push apart the posts on either side of the gate opening until they are plumb, and then use something like Quickrete to fill the gap opened up between the dirt and the concrete the posts are set in?

 

[Shiftless]

If those posts are hollow plastic, it seems to me that any attempt to spread the tops apart with a jack is not going to be translated into a gap at dirt level into which you can pour concrete or mortar and achieve a fix. But it’s probably worth a few minutes of your time to try anyway.

How many years did it take for this to happen?

 

[stickshift]

If those posts are hollow plastic, it seems to me that any attempt to spread the tops apart with a jack is not going to be translated into a gap at dirt level into which you can pour concrete or mortar and achieve a fix.

The fence predates me, and I don't anything about fences, but there must be a 4x4 post inside the pvc post? So I'd be pushing the 4x4 posts apart, no?
I'll remove the top cap and see how far up the 4x4 post sits inside the vinyl post.

How many years did it take for this to happen?

Maybe 7 years. I've just been tightening the nut on top hinge a bit more each year.

 

[Shiftless]

but there must be a 4x4 post inside the pvc post? So I'd be pushing the 4x4 posts apart, no?

I suppose there would be.
Depending on what kind of wood they used and how it was protected or not protected when it was sunk in the dirt, that 4x4 might be rotten by now. Watch out for project creep… you might end up replacing the gate and the entire section of fencing.

 

[jack stand]

What does a 4' level tell you on the 2 left (hinge side posts)?
With what little we know about this leads me towards a light cable and a turnbuckle diagonally from the top of the hinge post to the bottom of the post against the wood fence.
Now you'll need to find the "structure" of the post to attach the eye bolts to weather it's wood or an aluminum extrusion.
Pick the side with the least visual importance. A farm jack is a little aggressive IMHO. They move in 1/2-3/4" increments, too much in this situation.
A small trunbuckle will give you precise adjustments and could be done slowly over a few days time.

 

[CraigStu]

How about agate wheel?

https://i5.walmartimages.com/seo/FLROHA-6-Heavy-Duty-Gate-Caster-Spring-Loaded-Gate-Wheel-Swivel-Gate-Caster-Wheel-for-Wooden-Gate-and-Fence-1543LBS-Capacity_12e49c22-8a72-4f64-beae-0cb77f1e3bbf.3304b1dc8dd8696c1b568ad4124dffca.jpeg

I am not sure I see the point of it being a caster but that was the type I came upon first. You would need to spend a little time on creating a smooth surface for it to run on but w/ it being spring loaded it doesn't need to be perfect. In fact it might be best for it to be in contact only when the gate is closed.

 

[signcrafter]

What does a 4' level tell you on the 2 left (hinge side posts)?
With what little we know about this leads me towards a light cable and a turnbuckle diagonally from the top of the hinge post to the bottom of the post against the wood fence.
Now you'll need to find the "structure" of the post to attach the eye bolts to weather it's wood or an aluminum extrusion.
Pick the side with the least visual importance. A farm jack is a little aggressive IMHO. They move in 1/2-3/4" increments, too much in this situation.
A small trunbuckle will give you precise adjustments and could be done slowly over a few days time.

This is what I would do. That short section of plastic fence isn't giving any support to the gate post which bears all the weight of the gate. Need to transfer that weight to the bottom of the other post like mentioned above.

 

[BurtEggley]

What does a 4' level tell you on the 2 left (hinge side posts)?
With what little we know about this leads me towards a light cable and a turnbuckle diagonally from the top of the hinge post to the bottom of the post against the wood fence.
Now you'll need to find the "structure" of the post to attach the eye bolts to weather it's wood or an aluminum extrusion.
Pick the side with the least visual importance. A farm jack is a little aggressive IMHO. They move in 1/2-3/4" increments, too much in this situation.
A small trunbuckle will give you precise adjustments and could be done slowly over a few days time.

This ^^^^^

Use the level to verify that the difference is the gate sagging, and not the post rotting or bending etc.. Then add a L or U bracket to the lower right and a cable w/ turnbuckle to the top left. Add a bracket there to anchor the top end of the cable unless the hinge will handle the additional strain.

IT IS ALSO POSSIBLE that the section on the right of the gate is sagging to the left. Be sure to use a level first to see where the actual change is. You might need to shorten the top rail etc., on the section to the right if that is it. Analyze the problem before you go after the final solution.

 

[stickshift]

This ^^^^^

Use the level to verify that the difference is the gate sagging, and not the post rotting or bending etc.. Then add a L or U bracket to the lower right and a cable w/ turnbuckle to the top left. Add a bracket there to anchor the top end of the cable unless the hinge will handle the additional strain.

IT IS ALSO POSSIBLE that the section on the right of the gate is sagging to the left. Be sure to use a level first to see where the actual change is. You might need to shorten the top rail etc., on the section to the right if that is it. Analyze the problem before you go after the final solution.

It's not the gate that is sagging. The hinge side posts lean toward the gate opening and the latch side posts lean toward the gate opening. I checked this with a 1ft level before writing the OP, but I will verify with a 4ft level later today.

 

[BurtEggley]

may have to dig the posts up and reset them or replace them.

 

[stickshift]

What does a 4' level tell you on the 2 left (hinge side posts)?

Checked using 4' level and it agrees with what I saw using 1ft level. Both hinge side posts are leaning toward the gate opening. Both latch side posts are leaning toward the gate opening. Gate opening (distance between the hinge and latch posts) is 48" at the bottom and 46-3/4" at the top. So I don't think gate sagging is the issue.

All posts except the hinge post are hollow nearly all the way down. The hinge post has some kind of masonry material up to ~12-16" below top of vinyl post, maybe quickrete (pic below)? I guess that makes sense since it has to hold the gate up.

Given all this, I guess there is no easy fix that avoids digging? Dig around all 4 posts (starting with 2 posts on hinge side since they are leaning a bit more than latch side), get them plumb and pour in quickrete?

 

[The Cobbler]

add a L or U bracket to the lower right and a cable w/ turnbuckle to the top left. Add a bracket there to anchor the top end of the cable unless the hinge will handle the additional strain.

the gate is not sagging ( much) the issue i think id the post is canting over due to the weight of the gate

 

[BurtEggley]

It could be either the post is warping with time, or it could be the post is slowly moving in the soil. I am betting the latter. Since you did not set the post, you don't know how deep it is set. Normally one wants about 1/3 to 1/2 the height of the fence in the ground as to post depth - gates take slightly more because of the weight on them. I normally set my posts to 26 - 28 inches and gate posts 6 - 10 inches deeper, with concrete around them. When I have had to dig out a post and don't want to use a lot of concrete to fill the larger hole, I put a cardboard tube in, and pack dirt and gravel around it. Then set the post in the tube and fill the tube. Sonotube, Quiktube, etc.. If you are careful, you can bust the old concrete off the tube if you hit it on the thinner spots. With PVC tubes I don't know if that works.

My suggestion is to take a lot of measurements, run a string between the next posts out across it etc., and write them down before you take it out, to make it easier to set it when you are done. Sounds like as the hinge post moved, it caused the hinge side to droop. The hinge then carried weight to that post to make it move and droop, pulling the posts together. PVC can fool you in that it doesn't give much warning before it shatters, so I would not be jacking it apart or pounding on it. Good Luck.