Files

[kwhitelaw]

Did a search, way too many random threads not pertaining to files...

So what's the cat's meow with files? Im a SO guy so I could go on the truck, but for once im contemplating if ill get my money's worth with their files... I need them for rough body filler breakdown mostly, prolly need to update my smaller needle type files also.. hoping to find a "set", or atleast 1 place to pick up the bulk.

thank you

kevin

 

[wilbilt]

SO files are probably outsourced, someone here will know.

A friend of mine gave me a horseshoe rasp. The thing will take metal down right now. It is so sharp, I store it in a piece of motorcycle innertube to avoid accidentally cutting myself when reaching in the drawer.

 

[liliysdad]

Nicholson. Period.

 

[kwhitelaw]

googling nicholson now. looks like that will fit the bill. I appreciate it.

Might pick up one of those horseshoe rasps just to try it out. thanks for the lead.

kevin

 

[nissan_crawler]

I have a set of el-cheapo ITT needle files that look identical to these: http://cgi.ebay.com/10pc-3-x-140mm-FINE-Needle-File-Set-SAC4-341P_W0QQitemZ110288953127QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item110288953127&_trkparms=72%3A1163|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

They've been used for years to dress titanium turbine blades, and still work great. I think I paid $1.99 for the set of 10 when I got them. I was quite shocked to have them last so long.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Here's a set of them: http://cgi.ebay.com/10pc-PRECISION-NEEDLE-FILE-RASP-*******-SET-NEW_W0QQitemZ280265008527QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item280265008527&_trkparms=72%3A1163|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

 

[kwhitelaw]

I have a set of el-cheapo ITT needle files that look identical to these: http://cgi.ebay.com/10pc-3-x-140mm-FINE-Needle-File-Set-SAC4-341P_W0QQitemZ110288953127QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item110288953127&_trkparms=72%3A1163|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

They've been used for years to dress titanium turbine blades, and still work great. I think I paid $1.99 for the set of 10 when I got them. I was quite shocked to have them last so long.

hehe no titanium turbine blades around here, moreso fiberglass dashes or molded speaker pods. i imagine they'd hold up fine for me then. question though, can you remove the handles? they look cheap and I dont know if I could stomach them everytime I reached for them.. shallow I know

 

[chad s]

You want a file to rough out body filler? Sorry, but bad idea. All of my bodywork skills come from knowledge handed down to me and taught, each with over 30 years experience.

Some people try to use a vixen file to rough body filler. Interestingly, it dulls the files much faster than when using them on metal.

A standard ******* file will not remove body filler very well, it will clog after the first pass.

Air tools can be used (DA, air file), but your absolute best bet is to hit the filler with 40 grit on the longest block you can use on the panel while the filler is still soft. You will know when its ready, as the filler will knock down quickly, but just a bit harder than able to be peeled off by the sand paper. Keep a wire brush next to you to unclog the paper. With this method, you can very quickly rough out filler, and get things very straight.

Your spreading method has a lot to do with how much has to be removed also. There are a lot of small things that make the process work better.

The worst you can do is spread on too much filler on the first coat, and let it fully harden before sanding.

 

[kwhitelaw]

You want a file to rough out body filler? Sorry, but bad idea. All of my bodywork skills come from knowledge handed down to me and taught, each with over 30 years experience.

sorry, I should have elaborated.. I dont do bodywork. I do fiberglass speaker boxes/amp racks/dash panels etc. finish work isnt as important as typical body work.. I may set up a panel with some duraglass and knock it down real quick when it starts to flash. the panel would typically get covered in carpet/vinyl/suede so minor imperfections arent as important.

in cases where the piece would get painted, the file would still be just to knock down an initial layer of duraglass, then followed up with some rage gold etc... I have multiple DA's that take over from there before some high build primer. at that point, its off to the bodyshop to seal then paint.

other than that, I may need to precision file an abs plastic dash kit that I molded. the files that nissan posted should handle that. ( I already have needle files but am always looking to purchase more tools. can never have too many, especiallya consumable item like these).

 

[kwhitelaw]

Here's a set of them: http://cgi.ebay.com/10pc-PRECISION-NEEDLE-FILE-RASP-*******-SET-NEW_W0QQitemZ280265008527QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item280265008527&_trkparms=72%3A1163|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

never even thought to check widget supply who is selling those. on their website they have this set with an add't 22 other files for $10 bucks.. not bad.

 

[chad s]

You want a file to rough out body filler? Sorry, but bad idea. All of my bodywork skills come from knowledge handed down to me and taught, each with over 30 years experience.

sorry, I should have elaborated.. I dont do bodywork. I do fiberglass speaker boxes/amp racks/dash panels etc. finish work isnt as important as typical body work.. I may set up a panel with some duraglass and knock it down real quick when it starts to flash. the panel would typically get covered in carpet/vinyl/suede so minor imperfections arent as important.

in cases where the piece would get painted, the file would still be just to knock down an initial layer of duraglass, then followed up with some rage gold etc... I have multiple DA's that take over from there before some high build primer. at that point, its off to the bodyshop to seal then paint.

other than that, I may need to precision file an abs plastic dash kit that I molded. the files that nissan posted should handle that. ( I already have needle files but am always looking to purchase more tools. can never have too many, especiallya consumable item like these).

I would get a fairly coarse file (but definitely not a vixen) half round for the duraglass, and I wouldnt sand the duraglass with a file until it is fully hard, or the file will clog very quickly.

The above instructions I posted is for body panels, but I understand what you are doing.

Have you looked into the little 3" blue point DA? I havnt tried a file on duraglass, I use duraglass rarely for some areas, and rough it out with a DA once hard, and then follow with rage gold, or the new evercoat quantum filler. I think Duraglass will clog most any file very quickly.

Also look into evercoat slick-n-sand or sikkens Poly Surfacer. Both are polyester "sprayable body filler" products. They are polyester based, and spray on very thick, and then sand better than just about anything. The slick n sand doesnt build as much or sand as nicely as the polysurfacer, but the slick n sand is $70 a gallon, Poly Surfacer is $60 a quart. Both of these would be a great topcoat for rage gold, as they have great fill, and sand very easily. They take a lot of the final blocking work out of sanding filler.

 

[kwhitelaw]

ive been eyeing the 3" da on the truck ,but I already have a nice little right angle with the 2" and 3" hook and loop pad. hasnt let me down. for bigger stuff I have the SO 6". do you have the 3" SO? I wonder if my wrist would tire with the positioning you have to do to use it... works well on the 6" though I guess so maybe..

the companies I work with offer a rebadged slick sand that works well, but you are right, it's kinda expensive. definitely helps cut down on the pinholes and minor sanding scratches so its worth it. dont like the shelf life on it too much though so I try to make sure that whatever job im using it on has enough money in it to cover the gallon so I can just buy a new one each time.

 

[nissan_crawler]

You can take the handles off the needle files, but I wouldn't. They're very handy. They've been used on kevlar and carbon fiber also, so they shouldn't have a problem with 'glass.

 

[Theo]

Have a look at the BAHCO Files.

There made in the SO Factory in Portugal. They've been making files there for years now.

http://www.jhwilliamstoolgroup.com/Cat-24-1-96/Files.htm

 

[Lz_69]

My dad used to use this style of file on body filler.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Used-Body-Filler-File-Blades-Handles_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1019Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a3Q7c65Q3a12Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem220280026094QQitemZ220280026094

 

[MXtras]

Sandvik blows Nicholson out of the water.

Scott

 

[MAD]

My dad used to use this style of file on body filler.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Used-Body-Filler-File-Blades-Handles_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1019Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a3Q7c65Q3a12Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem220280026094QQitemZ220280026094

Those are Surform tools.
http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?TYPE=CATEGORY&CATEGORY=SURFORM+TOOLS+AND+BLADES

They work great for body filler but you have to work fast while the filler is still a little soft. If you let the filler cure completely it is too late. You have to hit it while it is like a block of Parmesan.

 

[KraftwerkMk1Jetta]

I scored these Nicholson files last month at a garage sale for around 7 bucks. Haven't used them yet but they're quality.

 

[chad s]

ive been eyeing the 3" da on the truck ,but I already have a nice little right angle with the 2" and 3" hook and loop pad. hasnt let me down. for bigger stuff I have the SO 6". do you have the 3" SO? I wonder if my wrist would tire with the positioning you have to do to use it... works well on the 6" though I guess so maybe..

the companies I work with offer a rebadged slick sand that works well, but you are right, it's kinda expensive. definitely helps cut down on the pinholes and minor sanding scratches so its worth it. dont like the shelf life on it too much though so I try to make sure that whatever job im using it on has enough money in it to cover the gallon so I can just buy a new one each time.

I do not have the BP 3" DA. I actually had my dealer put one aside for me, but I have decided Im going to get a hutchins 3501. Its a USA made sander, and I think its probably a superior product. The BP probably compares to the asian made ones from IR, CP, AP, etc, all of which cost around $100-150.

As for 6" DA's, I have a national detroit, and a dynabrade, both of which I like a lot.

Slick-n-sand is cheap, at $60 a gallon. I have found it to have a great shelf life. Most paints have a fine shelf life, its the hardeners that dont. With Slick n sand, the hardener for 1 gallon comes in 4 seperate tubes, and the MEK based hardener it uses actually shouldnt have any shelf life (its the urethane hardeners that do have a shelf life). I think you can get slick n sand in quarts as well.

I have used slick-n-sand that sat on the shelf for 6-8 months after using half of it. The only thing is it HAS to be shaken well before using. All of the solids settle to the bottom, and stirring with a paint stick wont get you very far.

 

[kwhitelaw]

I do not have the BP 3" DA. I actually had my dealer put one aside for me, but I have decided Im going to get a hutchins 3501. Its a USA made sander, and I think its probably a superior product. The BP probably compares to the asian made ones from IR, CP, AP, etc, all of which cost around $100-150.

As for 6" DA's, I have a national detroit, and a dynabrade, both of which I like a lot.

Slick-n-sand is cheap, at $60 a gallon. I have found it to have a great shelf life. Most paints have a fine shelf life, its the hardeners that dont. With Slick n sand, the hardener for 1 gallon comes in 4 seperate tubes, and the MEK based hardener it uses actually shouldnt have any shelf life (its the urethane hardeners that do have a shelf life). I think you can get slick n sand in quarts as well.

I have used slick-n-sand that sat on the shelf for 6-8 months after using half of it. The only thing is it HAS to be shaken well before using. All of the solids settle to the bottom, and stirring with a paint stick wont get you very far.

yah, I usually flip the can over once a day to minimize any settling. ive been using the typical 3" da from toolwarehouse and its held up fine. damn h&l pads arent the cheapest but what are ya gonna do.

 

[rodm1]

Sandvik blows Nicholson out of the water.

Scott

Sandvik is know Bahco, they are the very best but they don't last as long.

 

[liliysdad]

Sandvik blows Nicholson out of the water.

Scott

I have a few Sandvik files, and while they are nice, I still prefer Nicholsons, at least the older ones. The newer ones are ****. i have a set of 4, 6, and 8" mill ******* Nicholsons my grandfather gave me, and they are still going strong.

 

[MXtras]

I haven't bought files in probably 15+ years. The last were Sandvik/Coromat and they are still kicking.

Scott