Filler for a gap on a wall

[mikester]

Trying to finish up the upstairs of my house. This is a continuation of the AC air handler thread. I have the unit installed behind a knee wall. The HVAC company told me they need full access to the unit for servicing. The old handler was behind drywall with a 24x24 flush metal door. This is the only thing I could come up with. We used 1/2" birch plywood and poplar for the trim. A section of this wall from the outlet on the left to about a foot from the duct on the right is totally removable. It slides behind the base trim and is held in place by two large door magnets. The two outer vertical pieces of poplar hide most of the seems. Its not perfect but its going to be good enough after its painted.
The one issue I have is right over the return grill theres a little problem with the wall/ceiling being a little off. The poplar was cut on an angle to follow the line but since its a 124 year old house its not exactly perfect.
Anyone have a suggestion of what I can use to fill that gap ? Didnt think caulk would be a good idea since the gaps around 3/8" and I'd like to get it smooth enough to paint. Bondo was a thought but I dont want to make a mess on the drywall.

 

[Sinatra]

I might try cutting a shim and planing it to fit. A long cedar shim might work too.

 

[mikester]

I might try cutting a shim and planing it to fit. A long cedar shim might work too.

I thought about doing that but with the top being cut on an angle to match the pitch of the ceiling and the trim for the skylight being so close Im not sure its going to work.

 

[Kaizen]

good caulk is the way to go. Paint it wall color and it will disappear. Anything else will draw attention to it imo. Use painters tape on the wood so you don't get that wood covered. might even think leaving the caulk an 8th lower then the wood might help with the wall to wood line.

 

[The Cobbler]

I'd probably use a thin flat molding, like burlap mold , cut back to fit the angle of the roof and tacked in to place . it will flex so you can follow the contour of the roof line

 

[Shiftless]

I vote caulk. Use the small size foam backer rod and push it in so that you’ll have about 1/8 inch depth to caulk. I like to smooth with a wet sponge, you might need 2 applications. I use Alex plus which tools nicely with a wet finger or sponge and holds paint well.

good luck

 

[carlaisle]

Caulk with the foam backer rod behind it is the quick and easy way out but I would probably do multiple layers of drywall mud. Build them up and feather them out to make the gap disappear and blend in. Might use hot mud for the first layer if it's thick enough.

 

[PCustoms]

Was the trim scribed to fit or just beveled to the ceiling?

If I walked into that to paint, I'd use caulk or maybe a small 1/4 round.

There's a few gaps that stand out that could be cut again to get a tighter fit,but I'm a little OCD and try for "stain grade" fitment.

 

[larry4406]

Can you float out the ceiling with drywall mud to lessen the gap? Backer rod and caulk as suggested or a trim piece. Trim piece would need to go the whole way so it looks right.

 

[Hank11]

Can you float out the ceiling with drywall mud to lessen the gap? Backer rod and caulk as suggested or a trim piece. Trim piece would need to go the whole way so it looks right.

Yes, float out with the good hot mud which is plaster and very durable. With care you can make it look perfect.

 

[Shiftless]

The above suggestions of using multiple applications of mud and then careful sanding with a little sanding block would result in a very nice, perfectly square corner. Until it cracked after a tiny movement in the building due to humidity changes or other forces in place.

Quarter round trim to me wouldn’t look professional. Cove molding up high is good.

If it was my house, I’d go with backer rod and caulk. Use a putty knife to form it if you want.

 

[mikester]

Lots of good suggestions guys !!! Thanks !!!

Was the trim scribed to fit or just beveled to the ceiling?

If I walked into that to paint, I'd use caulk or maybe a small 1/4 round.

There's a few gaps that stand out that could be cut again to get a tighter fit,but I'm a little OCD and try for "stain grade" fitment.

The trim was just beveled to the ceiling.
If youre referring to the gaps at the bottom of the three vertical pieces and the gap at the **** joint along the top trim, those were cut that way so there was some space to remove that whole section without it binding as its tilted out and up.

 

[mikester]

Yes, float out with the good hot mud which is plaster and very durable. With care you can make it look perfect.

I have both. 5 minute and 20. I would probably use the 20 since Im not exactly good with a knife. Might take me a bit of time. LOL

 

[mikester]

I'd probably use a thin flat molding, like burlap mold , cut back to fit the angle of the roof and tacked in to place . it will flex so you can follow the contour of the roof line

I was considering going to the local building supply to see if they had something but I'll have to run it the whole length of the wall with two **** joints due to the removable section.

 

[PCustoms]

Lots of good suggestions guys !!! Thanks !!!

The trim was just beveled to the ceiling.

Can you make a new top trim, scribed to the ceiling?

 

[mikester]

Can you make a new top trim, scribed to the ceiling?

I guess that could be done but at this point Im looking for an easier alternative.

 

[wssix99]

The textbook solution is to scribe your trim. At this point, you can add a piece of molding and use the same technique.