Mikaman
Member
A couple tips on this:
1) Half the people at big box stores have no idea what "backer rod" is, they will say they don't carry it, or just give you a blank look. Ask for "caulk saver" instead. It is usually found with insulation sundries, comes coiled up in a small bag, one brand is "Frost King". I think the word "rod" can mislead people, that makes it sound like something more rigid. It's really just very soft, limp, compressible foam.
2) I decided to use screen spline instead! I measured my saw cuts, they're about .160" wide. I tried some backer rod but the thinnest I could find was 3/8", and I pretty much destroyed it trying to jam it down in a .160" groove. Maybe 1/4" backer would have worked, but I couldn't find any (if in fact they even make it that size). So I used .175" screen spline and it worked great! Very easy to install and get it to the depth you want.
I don't know if there's a standard thickness for concrete saw blades, or maybe various thicknesses, so your saw cuts may be a different width. But screen spline comes in about 4 different widths, ranging from roughly .150" to .190" (at least that's what I found in HD) -- so you can match the spline to your saw cut. .175" spline in a .160" cut worked well.
3) I used a screen spline tool to insert it in the sawcuts -- worked great, fast & easy. The spline tool also worked pretty well with the foam backer rod, too.
My plan is to epoxy the floor (with the screen spline/backer rod in place, to avoid losing lots of valuable epoxy down in the joints), and then caulk the joints after the epoxy has cured. I realize I'll see the caulked joints but that's OK with me. I didn't want to risk having the epoxy crack if it was applied over top of caulked joints, and since I don't mind the appearance of caulked joints, why take the risk -- but that's just my opinion.
Maybe someone else will find these tips useful.
1) Half the people at big box stores have no idea what "backer rod" is, they will say they don't carry it, or just give you a blank look. Ask for "caulk saver" instead. It is usually found with insulation sundries, comes coiled up in a small bag, one brand is "Frost King". I think the word "rod" can mislead people, that makes it sound like something more rigid. It's really just very soft, limp, compressible foam.
2) I decided to use screen spline instead! I measured my saw cuts, they're about .160" wide. I tried some backer rod but the thinnest I could find was 3/8", and I pretty much destroyed it trying to jam it down in a .160" groove. Maybe 1/4" backer would have worked, but I couldn't find any (if in fact they even make it that size). So I used .175" screen spline and it worked great! Very easy to install and get it to the depth you want.
I don't know if there's a standard thickness for concrete saw blades, or maybe various thicknesses, so your saw cuts may be a different width. But screen spline comes in about 4 different widths, ranging from roughly .150" to .190" (at least that's what I found in HD) -- so you can match the spline to your saw cut. .175" spline in a .160" cut worked well.
3) I used a screen spline tool to insert it in the sawcuts -- worked great, fast & easy. The spline tool also worked pretty well with the foam backer rod, too.
My plan is to epoxy the floor (with the screen spline/backer rod in place, to avoid losing lots of valuable epoxy down in the joints), and then caulk the joints after the epoxy has cured. I realize I'll see the caulked joints but that's OK with me. I didn't want to risk having the epoxy crack if it was applied over top of caulked joints, and since I don't mind the appearance of caulked joints, why take the risk -- but that's just my opinion.
Maybe someone else will find these tips useful.