Filling Control Joints

[spanky99l]

I just had delivered The epoxycoat kits (Premium kits with UV 1.5kits) and was planning on filling my control joints (sikaflex sl and backer rod)

The slab is brand new (it's 5 months old) but has not had a single vehicle, etc on it. It is lightly raked.

My question is do i fill the control joints THEN acid etch or acid etch THEN fill?

I've searched to no avail (my searching abilities are lacking)

Thanks

Will

 

[pauls340]

IMO, if you use a cheap polyurethane like sekaflex you do not want to acid etch after you fill those joints. Also, if there is any moisture coming out of that concrete or in that joint, good luck putting any polyurethane in there without it bubbling.

 

[spanky99l]

I am going to test the moisture content of the concrete before putting down the coat

Will

 

[shaun oriold1]

I would coat the floor first, avoid the joints, then if you want to fill them use latex caulking to fill them. Clear would work. Just be prepared to wipe them with xylene once a year to keep the gunk out....

 

[Cobra6]

I just had delivered The epoxycoat kits (Premium kits with UV 1.5kits) and was planning on filling my control joints (sikaflex sl and backer rod)
The slab is brand new (it's 5 months old) but has not had a single vehicle, etc on it. It is lightly raked.

My question is do i fill the control joints THEN acid etch or acid etch THEN fill?

I've searched to no avail (my searching abilities are lacking)

Thanks

Will

Will,
I talked to the folks at Epoxy-Coat about this - definitely acid etch - then fill with backer rod and caulk.
When I washed my floor after I etched it, the control joints soaked up a lot of water along the edges and took 4 or 5 days to dry out - I ended up using a heat gun along the surface to get rid of all the moisture. (concrete stayed darker along the cuts until I dried it out)

I would also read these tech notes from alpha garage -
http://www.alphagarage.com/filling-joints-and-cracks.php

I took my grinder and formed a "V" notch and it seems to work.

 

[spanky99l]

Mine already have a V notch (they were NOT saw cut)

ALSO FWIW slab is post-tension

Will

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

We have a gel crack filler that has received some good reviews.

Link: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/hd821-crack-sealant-gel-style-p-94.html

 

[AWoodwell]

We have a gel crack filler that has received some good reviews.

Link: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/hd821-crack-sealant-gel-style-p-94.html

Holy **** that is some expensive joint filler!

 

[pima67]

I have a post-tensioned slab that includes the garage. A small (1/8 ") crack appeared before tensioning where the two 3 & 4 ft back and side "steps" intersected . After we moved in, I filled the crack with thinset and watched it for at lease 6 mo. I didn't think it would open up any more because of the tensioning and it didn't. I then put epoxy on the steps two years ago. The crack has not appeared.

When I do the rest of the floor I think I'll use thinset again on the tooled joints. I really can't figure out why they tooled joints in the garage since the slab was post tensioned. Maybe for looks (all garage floors have tooled or cut joints?) I've examined the joints and seen no cracking (6 years now).