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Filling expansion cuts?
- Thread starter chip54
- Start date
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If you want to hide them under the coating, use a gel epoxy crack filler.
If you will fill post coating, use a Self-leveling filler, like Sonneborn or Sika SL.
If you will fill post coating, use a Self-leveling filler, like Sonneborn or Sika SL.
Sovereign-1
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2014
- Messages
- 55
Are there any long term concequesnces to filling these cuts? I have about 90 linear feet of which to fill. I imagine that will take quite a while.
SunsetsAndFriends
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2012
- Messages
- 753
What about using a polyurea expansion joint filler, such as this product by Versatile:
https://www.garagecoatings.com/stor...lyurea-concrete-expansion-joint-filler-detail
The data sheet says that elongation is 60%. I have seen other sorts of 2 part products preloaded in dual cartridges with mixing nozzles.
https://www.garagecoatings.com/stor...lyurea-concrete-expansion-joint-filler-detail
The data sheet says that elongation is 60%. I have seen other sorts of 2 part products preloaded in dual cartridges with mixing nozzles.
Shea
Well-known member
What about using a polyurea expansion joint filler, such as this product by Versatile
Yes, that will work just fine.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Are there any long term concequesnces to filling these cuts? I have about 90 linear feet of which to fill. I imagine that will take quite a while.
Your concrete is not changed by filling a cut. If it wants to move or crack it will do it, filler or not. If the slab has settled you should be ok.
You would be surprised how fast it goes.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yes, that will work just fine.
Polyurea is nice and we offer this as well.
However, it dries VERY fast and if you opt to purchase in the tube cartridge, you will have to purchase an application gun which has little use, post project.
http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/xtreme-set-100-crackjoint-filler-p-308.html
SunsetsAndFriends
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2012
- Messages
- 753
Polyurea is nice and we offer this as well.
However, it dries VERY fast and if you opt to purchase in the tube cartridge, you will have to purchase an application gun which has little use, post project.
http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/xtreme-set-100-crackjoint-filler-p-308.html
Scotty - with the Legacy product, since it's not in a cartridge, one would mix 1:1 in a small batches and pour in the cracks? What about applying the dry sand as a filler? What is the coverage of the Legacy 1 gallon kit?
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Our installers use clear ketchup-like bottles.
They buy them at Target in the kitchenware area! lol.
Our polyurea is thin like urethane.
Therefore, you clean the crack/cut out. Fill to the top with dry play sand. Saturate with the mixed polyurea, add a little more sand raising it above the floor and then saturate again.
Sometimes it takes two applications as the material cures SOOOO fast.
When done, 30 mins later. Grind flush with your hand-grinder and start coating.
(1) gallon unit will easily cover 60-70' of saw-cuts using this method.
THe product is used in this video:
They buy them at Target in the kitchenware area! lol.
Our polyurea is thin like urethane.
Therefore, you clean the crack/cut out. Fill to the top with dry play sand. Saturate with the mixed polyurea, add a little more sand raising it above the floor and then saturate again.
Sometimes it takes two applications as the material cures SOOOO fast.
When done, 30 mins later. Grind flush with your hand-grinder and start coating.
(1) gallon unit will easily cover 60-70' of saw-cuts using this method.
THe product is used in this video:
Last edited:
SunsetsAndFriends
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2012
- Messages
- 753
Our installers use clear ketchup-like bottles.
They buy them at Target in the kitchenware area! lol.
Our polyurea is thin like urethane.
Therefore, you clean the crack/cut out. Fill to the top with dry play sand. Saturate with the mixed polyurea, add a little more sand raising it above the floor and then saturate again.
Sometimes it takes two applications as the material cures SOOOO fast.
When done, 30 mins later. Grind flush with your hand-grinder and start coating.
(1) gallon unit will easily cover 60-70' of saw-cuts using this method.
THe product is used in this video:
Nice video. I like how it shows the mixing as well as the application.
BabaGanoosh
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 28, 2014
- Messages
- 67
Great video, Scotty! I notice you didn't use primer coat. Is primer coat not always needed? Thanks!Our installers use clear ketchup-like bottles.
They buy them at Target in the kitchenware area! lol.
Our polyurea is thin like urethane.
Therefore, you clean the crack/cut out. Fill to the top with dry play sand. Saturate with the mixed polyurea, add a little more sand raising it above the floor and then saturate again.
Sometimes it takes two applications as the material cures SOOOO fast.
When done, 30 mins later. Grind flush with your hand-grinder and start coating.
(1) gallon unit will easily cover 60-70' of saw-cuts using this method.
THe product is used in this video:
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Good catch Baba!! If we did not immediately place the chip over the first coat you would see a patchy coat. Because of the flake going in to rejection, it covers this and it's not an issue.
The PolyAspartic product is thin like a urethane and therefore out-gassing causing surface issues has not been a problem. Frankly, the chip would mask it regardless.
Now, if were producing a color coat system with no chip or limited chip, the first coat would be the primer, the second coat would be the color coat (chip coat) and then a 3rd coat would be placed over-top. maybe even a 4th coat too.
When customers want that look we point them back to the epoxy/urethane systems. The only real advantage is time and DIY usually have plenty of that.
The PolyAspartic product is thin like a urethane and therefore out-gassing causing surface issues has not been a problem. Frankly, the chip would mask it regardless.
Now, if were producing a color coat system with no chip or limited chip, the first coat would be the primer, the second coat would be the color coat (chip coat) and then a 3rd coat would be placed over-top. maybe even a 4th coat too.
When customers want that look we point them back to the epoxy/urethane systems. The only real advantage is time and DIY usually have plenty of that.
Trey T
Well-known member
You want to use something that's quite ridgid when it's cured bc if you apply epoxy, a brittle material, you want to minimize the flexing.
BTW, they are not "expansion" cuts, they're there to control the cracking in certain direction WHEN it occurs. Expansion joints are what's in your drive way.
BTW, they are not "expansion" cuts, they're there to control the cracking in certain direction WHEN it occurs. Expansion joints are what's in your drive way.
Scotty, thanks a TON for your input on this... I have a 68x42 shop that's almost complete... I had the builder do clean, thin saw cuts so that I could fill them prior to coating the floor.
Hate getting jacks and casters stuck in the troweled expansion joints in my current garage floor, so I'm really glad there is a process to avoid all that.
I'll be using a professionally-applied solid color (light grey) epoxy coating (no flake) with a non-slip additive - Any pitfalls I should look out for, or "tricks" I can use to make my new floor more light-reflective?
Thanks again - I can't wait to get started!
-Greg
Hate getting jacks and casters stuck in the troweled expansion joints in my current garage floor, so I'm really glad there is a process to avoid all that.
I'll be using a professionally-applied solid color (light grey) epoxy coating (no flake) with a non-slip additive - Any pitfalls I should look out for, or "tricks" I can use to make my new floor more light-reflective?
Thanks again - I can't wait to get started!
-Greg
tlmartin84
Well-known member
Here is a simple question:
How do you keep the self levelling type epoxies intitially spread with a squeegee from filling the sawcuts if you wish to leave the joint open?
I was planning on coating and then sealing the joints with DOW 888.
How do you keep the self levelling type epoxies intitially spread with a squeegee from filling the sawcuts if you wish to leave the joint open?
I was planning on coating and then sealing the joints with DOW 888.
benwah
Well-known member
Cut in joints in your work area first with brush. Squeegee close to joint but don't allow material to go into it. Use roller and roll over those areas