Filling in cracks in driveway

[DmC86]

Looking for some recommendations in filling in multiple cracks and a control joint that is opening up for my driveway. I know this would not be a permanent fix but needing to fill these cracks in in hopes to slow the deterioration down. This is located in Georgia so should not be exposed to crazy negative temperatures. I am looking at the below product from HD but any recommendations would be helpful.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-10-fl-oz-Crack-Sealant-427706/203249445

Pictures below...

 

[NUTTSGT]

I used that product or a similar one from Sika to do my control joints inside my garage. Clean out what you have by power washing and let it dry. It should stick and slow any water intrusion.

 

[DmC86]

Thank you sir. Just pressure washer in November will probably go back over quickly to clean out the cracks again.

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[NUTTSGT]

I have 4 tubes at home I was going to use on my new (Spring "17) trailer pad. However, I have found that the control joints and **** joints make a nice gutter for the rain water.

 

[welder4956]

I have the same issue with cracks in my driveway, but about 10 times as many. The Sikaflex product looks like the right way to go for yours, just be sure to chisel out along the crack and clean per their instructions.

 

[Lee Celtic]

We use a kit that comes in a bucket at work in the warehouse.. it looks like sand and cement but you mix it with epoxy resin..

It requires the join to be wetted down before applying so you don't need to wait for a dry day, can be troweled flat and you can drive a 3 ton forklift over it after an hour..

Just don't get it on your hands they will turn black and it's hard to get it off..lol

 

[AMCguy]

Because you have a combination of joints and both small and deep wide cracks, there isn't any single tube product that's going to do the entire job for you.

With cracks that vary in width, the problem with almost anything out of a tube is once you cut the tip, the opening will either be too big or too small. With a small tip it's really hard to squeeze out the product and your hands will be dead tired in no time. Too big an opening and you have a hard time controlling the flow into the tiny cracks. It piles up and you make a mess. If you try to move fast, the product skips.

I think a Sika product that is more forgiving is their self levelling sealant. It flows very well so you can get it out of a very small opening. The problem with it is you need to use a backer or it will flow out the bottom of the crack before it cures. Take a look anyway. Heres a link from the same site.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-29-fl-oz-Grey-Self-Leveling-Sealant-106711/202523824

I did all the control cuts in my shop and the carports and walkways around it with this product. But you won't be able to get backer rod into most of those cracks you have. You'll loose a fortunes worth of product into them. For your joint I'd use it.

For your cracks, I'd use a high performance grout that you mix and smooth into the cracks in a traditional way.

Glenn

 

[AMCguy]

Here's what the self levelling pro sealant looks like in place.

 

[Mustang1167]

The self leveling product shown above is what I used in my garage. It’s easy to work with. I’d powerwash the junk out of the cracks and apply it on a warm day. One tube doesn’t provide much coverage so I’d plan on buying a case or two.

 

[lakeroadster]

But you won't be able to get backer rod into most of those cracks you have. You'll loose a fortunes worth of product into them.
Glenn

I too used the Sika Flex self leveling joint sealant on the control joints in my barn slab. What I found is that sand works well to prefill the joint before applying the sealant. Fill the crack, broom or brush it out to the desired depth, then apply the sealant.

Also, the warmer the tube of sealant is, the runnier it will be. I found that keeping the tube out of direct sunlight is preferred.

 

[ambenz]

Yup, did all my 150'X12' exterior concrete driveway with the self leveling stuff two years ago and it is holding up great, here in the 4 season Chicago metro area!
The reason you should seal the cracks is to avoid water washing out the foundation under the slab and creating voids or water pooling and freezing causing heaving and cracking. The stuff is flexable enough to expand and contract with the joint during hot summer and cold winters. Do it NOW to keep your driveway as good as it can be.

You can get the 29oz size at Menards, bought the gun too.
Went thru 10 tubes so when they recommend to sweep in sand in the cracks, I agree!
Still have to do the garage but I do not see a lot of water in there.

 

[crguy]

I used the Sika Flex in big tubes to fill some wide ( up to 1 1/2") joints and cracks in concrete. I used a flat heavy wire wheel on an angle grinder to clean the sides of the openings, then put backer rod in. This stuff is not recommended for any type of incline. It will self level right out of the low end of the crack. It seems like there were a couple of different self leveling options available. Has been in nearly a year, good so far.

 

[AMCguy]

I too used the Sika Flex self leveling joint sealant on the control joints in my barn slab. What I found is that sand works well to prefill the joint before applying the sealant. Fill the crack, broom or brush it out to the desired depth, then apply the sealant.

Also, the warmer the tube of sealant is, the runnier it will be. I found that keeping the tube out of direct sunlight is preferred.

This is a great idea and would work well in this case.

Glenn

 

[engineer2]

Good info! I've tried many things to fill concrete cracks and not have been successful. Will try Sika Flex or similar.
My experiments:
Good: concrete crack epoxy, 3 winters (good on pock marks though)
Fair: Tile grout, 2 winters
Poor: regular epoxy, JB Weld, 1 winter

 

[DmC86]

Thank you all for the good insight! Will more than likely go with the sand route to help fill the cracks in. My drive is on a good slope and will more than likely lose quite a bit of product trying to fill the cracks in.

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[machsnell]

Thank you all for the good insight! Will more than likely go with the sand route to help fill the cracks in. My drive is on a good slope and will more than likely lose quite a bit of product trying to fill the cracks in.

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Don't use self leveling (SL) sika flex. Use the regular. It's harder to work with but sl will run down your driveway and be a mess. Has to be flat. The pros don t use the sl.

Get a crack chaser diamond wheel for your 4.5 inch grinder. It has a blade that is in a v
This will clean up the edges of your crack and allow you to use tape. Also it will look much nicer when filled. The tape allows the non pro to have a clean crisp joint. Apply caulk and screed off smooth and flat and remove tape before it sets up.

You can use a regular diamond wheel and hold at an angle but it is harder.

Just make sure if you use sand to leave at least a 1/4 inch of material or more. Use a small brush.

If you do now at the change of seasons it's best. The concrete is in the middle of most expansive and contactive cycle.

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[AMCguy]

Crack Chaser blades. I love it. I get smarter every day.

Glenn