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Filling the expansion joints in garage

trainman1385

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Dec 13, 2012
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215
Location
Utah
What material should I use to fill the expansion joints in my concrete floor of my garage?
 
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dcs Inc

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Dec 13, 2010
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Indianapolis, Indiana
If the garage is not heated then I wouldn't suggest filling with a solid, non flexible filler. Your concrete expands and contracts with the temp changes and it will crack. In this case you should use a flexible joint filler. There's several available over the shelf. Sika Flex and Sonnoborne's NP-1 and SL-1 are a couple that come to mind. The SL-1 is self leveling.

If going with a solid type filler, you can use a good epoxy and mix a thickener to make a paste and then fill them. Silica sand works and the easiest to find.
 

Shea

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Sep 19, 2012
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If the joints are real deep you may want to use a backer rod so that the epoxy doesn't settle as it cures. As long as the epoxy product you use has an elongation factor of close to 50% you should be OK. I know that the HD-821 works from experience. Here is more info on filling contraction joints if it helps. The silica sand is a good tip as well.
 

Prepman

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Dec 16, 2012
Messages
24
Location
Raleigh NC
We membrane these type of joints with a flexible epoxy membrane or a urethane hybrid joint filler. We fill the joint flush and allow it to get a little rigid and then we bandaid it approx. 3" on each side. We bevel it to zero and keep it thick (about 3/32 in the middle over the joint. The concept is to allow flexible to move on the underside and to dissipate the movement on the top. Typically, this works which just a ghost line of a lighter color, but no crack. You may use masking tape to help make a straight line with the membrane. I think I've only had one floor that cracked using this method.
 
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enrare

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Oct 17, 2011
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425

Can this product be used to fill the control joints in in my basement bathroom tile project? I'm probably going to use Ditra over the concrete but still have not figured out how to address the control joints before the Ditra is layed down. Any advise is helpful, this will be my first stab at tiling, if all goes well then it's on to the upstairs kitcken and dining room.
 
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trainman1385

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Dec 13, 2012
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215
Location
Utah
I am looking to fill the expansion joints to make cleaning my garage easier they are about a 1/2" wide and 4"+ deep
 

Mulder1231

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Dec 28, 2012
Messages
7
I'm looking to do the same, but in my garage the expansion joints are made out of 2x4's redwood. The wood is original (must be 60 years old) and mostly intact, but must have shrunk a bit--there is at least a 1/2" gap from the concrete surface.

I want to install racedeck tiles but don't want to leave these large gaps.

Should I first remove the wood? It's not easy to remove, as there are large nails going across that hold the wood in place.

If I remove the wood, what filler material is recommended for this job that is cost effective?
 

Shea

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Sep 19, 2012
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2,868
Location
California
I'm looking to do the same, but in my garage the expansion joints are made out of 2x4's redwood. The wood is original (must be 60 years old) and mostly intact, but must have shrunk a bit--there is at least a 1/2" gap from the concrete surface.

I want to install racedeck tiles but don't want to leave these large gaps.

Should I first remove the wood? It's not easy to remove, as there are large nails going across that hold the wood in place.

If I remove the wood, what filler material is recommended for this job that is cost effective?

You shouldn't have a problem leaving your joints as they are. Just make sure when you install that you don't line up the tile joints inline and above your contraction joints. That's one of the advantages of interlocking polypropylene tile. They are more rigid and can span imperfections in your concrete.
 

bernialisha

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Joined
Dec 29, 2012
Messages
9
Location
india
You may want to read this from Alpha Garage about filling expansion joints.

http://www.alphagarage.com/media/v-notch tech note.pdf

It explains the use of backer rod and a V-notch in the cut. I employed both principles and my floor turned out pretty good.

Well, nice sharing. I have visited your link, which you have shared in this thread. That is looking very nice and it will become more useful for everyone. Thanks for sharing such an useful link with us.
 

Mulder1231

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Joined
Dec 28, 2012
Messages
7
Thanks for the advice, I will give that a try.

I also have to deal with one of the slabs that is about 3/8 of an inch higher along the center joint. I'm going to have to remove quite a bit of concrete to make it level. I am planning on renting an EDCO TG-10 for $200 a day, it can remove 1/16" per pass.
 
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