Filling Void in Metal Door Frames

[dtep]

I used two steel man doors and frames when I built my garage last year. The original plan was to fill the void in the frames with concrete for security purposes, but the builder left a 1/2" gap between the stud and the edge of the frame so I can slide drywall behind the frame which I do plan to do. The problem is that I don't see a good way to get concrete through that small of a gap and I'm beginning to think that may be overkill anyway. For insulation purposes, I'm now leaning toward using spray foam to fill the void unless my fellow GJ'ers have a better idea. The other options I can think of are to stuff fiberglass or cellulose through the gap. Thoughts??

 

[cburnscrx]

I would vote spray foam...but make sure you get it for doors and windows. Brick, steel door frame and spray foam, guess which one loses? Hint: It's not the spray foam.

 

[spotco2]

I would just stuff it with insulation and caulk it after you install the sheetrock.

That frame is not made for grouting in. We only grout in frames that are installed in block walls.

 

[BlindViper]

Door and window foam in a can. Do not seal it in until it drys the damn stuff will move the door frame if you do.

 

[CNGsaves]

If it were mine, I'd go for a fab'd steel boxframe attached to the studs that would serve as your security backplate for deadbolt (ie cut hole in the box steel frame). This would go entire vertical space up down and could be filled with spray foam for some insulating benefit.

I'd leave 3/4" of stud space so you have something to nail sheetrock (ie to the left side of box steel frame on those double studs). My .02 idea.

 

[Jek11688]

In commercial construction HM frames are grouted with structolite its like a gypsum/plaster product. However it is poured in before they are set.

In your case spray in foam or insulation may be the best.

 

[Greg the Door Guy]

Your contractor likely used a product called structolite, which is applied prior to installing the door jamb. Although your door looks residential, it almost looks like your frame is hollow metal.
Using Structolite or similar product will not really contribute to added security.
In order to use mortar, you would have had to have the inside throat of your frame coated with a bituminous coating to prevent rust.
You then would have to install backer rod, and a good polyurethane caulk around the perimeter of the frame once your wall material is installed. Let it dry for at least 24 hours before the next step. After that, drill a 3/4" diameter hole in the HM head. Fill a 5 gallon bucket with mortar after you install a 5/8" diameter plastic hose in the bottom of your bucket. Get up on a sturdy ladder and place the hose in the hole in your HM frame. Use a vibrating sander applied to the side of the bucket. As long as your slump is rite, it will pump the mortar into the HM frame no problem.
Looks like it is too late to do this process, as most GC's use structolite because it is easier, however because of the way structolite is applied, it does nothing for security.

 

[inphx]

If it were mine, I'd go for a fab'd steel boxframe attached to the studs that would serve as your security backplate for deadbolt (ie cut hole in the box steel frame). This would go entire vertical space up down and could be filled with spray foam for some insulating benefit.

me too, but probably a smaller 6" focussed bracket with slot for the deadbolt and mounted to the stud. Cordless cutoff tools have made a lot of these measure mute.