Filter/regulators: Where/what to buy?

[bmwpower]

The question is, what should I look for in a filter/regulator (F/R)?

I saw this one on Northern Tool's site:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...?storeId=6970&productId=200311687&R=200311687

I also looked at byrdman's F/R from this thread:

http://www.garagejunkies.net/showthread.php?t=1681


- Is it a good idea to have another pressure gauge at each F/R (like byrdman's built-in gauge)? If so, why?

- I would guess a bigger filter cartridge is better (more surface area, less filter changes)?

- Any recommendations?

- Any online sources?


Gearing up for getting air in my shop...

 

[byrdman]

Number of outputs, CFM/PSI maximums, type of filter (replaceable/reusable), etc are some things to look at. If you read my other thread, you saw the source I obtained my F/R's from. I like having a main line pressure gauge at each drop:
-So I can see what the main pressure is no matter which drop I'm near.
-So I can see what the pressure loss is as compared to pressure at the tank.

You wouldn't have to have it really, but it's nice feedback to have. I didn't see that many choices out there that had both gauges. Sharpe makes the 606a which lacks the main gauge, it has only the guage for the regulator. It's not that much cheaper so I opted for the 606B.

I'm not sure what advantage the larger filter size might offer, but I'm guessing it's just capacity, meaning less frequent draining.

 

[bmwpower]

I just checked and the autobodystore is close to my house. Small world.

 

[kartracer55]

Ive got all Speedaire from grainger, no complaints so far. IF you have copper you only need to run one filter right before the very first drop, and put a reg right at each hose... it will probably be cheaper than funning a bunch of over unders like your looking at. Also, run a filter with ports the size of your line, but you can step down the regs at the hose... I ran 3.4 line wth 1/2 drops and used 1/2 filters and reduced to 3/8 for big 3/8 thread/body couplers at one end of the hose so i can store the hose out of the way... works out very well because hoses get to be in the way

Oh yeah, and you might have to change the filter element once in a blue moon for the kind of thing we do... We dont use it all day long 5 days a week. Id still say 5 micron filter element (one of th smallest your gunna find) so it will get almost everything. The main filters at the compressor get most of the dust and **** in the air... if your getting that kind of stuff in your main line filter than your compressor proabbly has serious problems

Jim

 

[stinky]

tptools

Check out this site TPTOOLS.COM they have cool lay out for setting air (dry air) for
your shop.

 

[motorheadjohn]

I have been happy with every TP Tools filter/reg in my garage. Their stuff is usually MP. I have a couple from other sources, some have been good, a couple have not.

Number one, look for size. SIZE MATTERS. If you need air at several places around the shop, those little 1/4" NPT filters and regulators are cheap and might look like a good solution. But, they will not flow enough air to run high-end tools like a DA sander, big impact gun, cut-off or die-grinder, etc. I know because I tried it. Step up to 3/8". If you're going to run multiple outlets after the unit, get 1/2" units.

Second, avoid polycarbonate bowls. The clear bowl seems like a good idea but oils weaken the plastic over time. BOOM. Nuff said. There are plenty of options that have metal bowls and sight glass if you really need to moniter the water level.

Last, this is my opinion, but I do not like automatic drains. I picked up a Milton at Northern Tool last month. I like Milton stuff in general, but the automatic drain on this is a POS. It works only when you shut off the air in the system and the pressure bleeds off. That's not really automatic. What's more, when you use the manual option to drain it, it cuts the O-ring into shreds EVERY TIME, INFINITELY REPEATABLE.

As mentioned above, 5 micron is a typical filter rating you will see. Get a coalescing filter or dessicant if you need to paint, and set that up on one drop only.

 

[krooser]

I bought a rebuilt Bendix AD-9 air drier that's used on big trucks. It has 1/2" NPT threads in and out. It also has an ejector valve and a heater which makes it suitable for use in cold weather installations.

I'll either buy a bracket kit or make my own.

The regular service interval for trucks is every 300,000 miles which means I should get, say, ten years out of a replaceable cartridge.

Expect to pay around $130.00 to $150.00 for a rebuilt unit.

These are available at any class 8 truck dealer or parts supplier. Other brands include Haldex and Meritor/Wabco (which has a nifty spin-on filter).

 

[kartracer55]

Motorhead john is very right...

1/4 NPT units will not flow enough air for more than 1 tool at a time. If you use copper, you can run one main filter before your first drop, if black pipe, its got to be right before a regulator which needsto be right before the hose.

John is also VERY VERY right about polycarbonate. I heard one explode, and it scared the you know what out of all of us. Luckily the compressor was up in a loft kind of place, a 7.5hp 2 stage Le Roi... 175 psi and the thing blew up... its like popping a baloon times 10. If you do get polycarbonate bowls, make sure they have a damn good metal cage around them. Grainger sells both polycarbonate and cast aluminum filters. Get the cast aluminum.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

www.surpluscenter.com