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final results after hours of work

bczygan

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Nov 4, 2009
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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
I'm not saying it is valueless.
I'm saying it needs considered with great consideration.

I would never use epoxy.

Besides the difficulties and costs, I especially don't like the look of a floor with all those different colored little sprinkles. I have a hard enough time finding things dropped onto the floor.

Bill
 
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Trey T

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Aug 3, 2011
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Houston, TX
I didn't like the "sprinkles" or flakes in my work area of the garage, I applied the epoxy w/o it. I think the flakes in teh "work area" of the garage would makes me dizzy.

Epoxy may not be for everybody; however, you're not gonna find any other product that will be on the same level as epoxy regards to durability and continuously sealed across the floor (easy to clean).

my floor (old photos) below with two-tone color.
 

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Kevin54

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Jan 12, 2005
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Urbana, Ohio
I'm going to move my stuff in and try to leave middle open. Stuff on sides will have equipment and stuff on it

I usually don't pop in on the flooring section as I'm waiting to see what I want to do yet. But...I have been reading through the thread, and all that you have went through, I wouldn't move anything in just yet. Go to Lowes, HD, or any rental place, and rent a floor sander/polisher like others have stated. I believe the pads/screens that goes on them are like 24" in diameter. If I'm not mistaken, this is what everyone has in their mind

american-sanders-sander-1600-250px.jpg


They have various grits of the drywall sanding type of pads for them. I'd hate to see anyone spend that kind of money and end up no being satisfied. I'd do what I could to salvage it. good Luck :thumbup:



`
 
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Dave Maxwell

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Sep 21, 2011
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865
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Kickapoo illinois

This is the roller issues I had. What do I use next time. 3/8 nap. Rolled on wet. Then back rolled with 50% overlap on one way pass. Did one section at a time
 
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Dave Maxwell

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Sep 21, 2011
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865
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Kickapoo illinois
I dipped every pass. Which was 9 foot long. I was pushing puddles is what I started back rolling. I couldn't see anything didn't help. Could not get a light at the right angle.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Jun 7, 2010
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deerfield, IL
Ahhh. Yes need to be able to see it.

You should do "m" passes dry after every row without lifting the roller. It will even it out even if you cant see.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Dave Maxwell

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Sep 21, 2011
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Kickapoo illinois
I did 9x9 sections at a time working across. I can picture an m , but after each row. So if I have the numbers 1234 going across. The first pass starts on bottom and goes to top. How wide. Also when I start the next pass. Do I step over one roller width?
 
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Dave Maxwell

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Sep 21, 2011
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865
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Kickapoo illinois
I think I'm picturing to wide of an m. If bottom left is at 1, then the right bottom is 6 foot away. That's where I'm getting confused I think. Lol. Narrow M is more like it
 

retfr8flyr

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Mar 7, 2013
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756
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Providence Forge, VA
I don't know about your clear but with the product I used, I was instructed to use a 1/4 inch nap roller, to put it on fairly thin, just like painting a wall and to back roll as little as possible. I was told that if I put it on too thickly it would bubble up, I had the same problem you have, of it being very hard to see where you have rolled, so I tried to do it in small 6ft squares and still keep a wet edge.
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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Jun 7, 2010
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7,995
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deerfield, IL
Yes, really looking to knock off the sheen and of course any surface imperfection (if any).
Make sure you wipe with denatured alcohol to pull out the micro dust in the scratches.
 
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