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Finally after 10 years i have a real compressor

DirtRoad

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Oct 24, 2012
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607
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Lowell, Mi
Had a 33 gallon craftsman oiless for 10 years. It worked great for what it was, never skipped a beat. It did most everything i needed it to do, just couldnt run die grinders, cutoff wheels, sanders or paint. Always had to go to my buddies place to do those things, not very convenient.

Got the chance to go get a 60 gallon single stage, i know its not much to some people but for me its amazing. 11.5cfms at 90psi is a thing of beauty, especially when your used to 5.9cfms at 90psi.

Decided on the Husky at Home depot, it was the cheapest 60 gallon single stage i could find. TSC had a CH for the same price but i just couldnt get past the ugly grey painted tank they use now.

They loaded it for me with a fork lift. Then i just slid it where i wanted it. I used deck screws and screwed the pallet right to the deck of my trailer. I bear hugged it and pushed and pulled it HARD, it wasnt going anywhere. Just for good measure though i used two ratchet straps over the pallet.

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I didnt have much money left after buying it so i had to use what i had for the most part just to get it up and running. Already had the wire, breaker, 25ft hose, ball valve and hose real.

So i went to harbor freight and picked up their reg/filter combo. Little nervous at first but it works perfectly, no problem at all.

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Just have to redo the drain valve like i did on my craftsman and im good to go i think, for now.

Anyone have any ideas on what i can do to plump it better?
The problem i have is that im going to be doing the walls this fall and i dont want to spend a ton of time and money plumbing it over to my hose reel and then have to take it all back down and then redo all of it.

Every wall will have a drop after i get the walls up, but in the meantime, what options do i have?

Im also nervous about water. The filter is collecting it great from what i can tell. You can watch water spit into the bowl when your running a tool. There is so much in fact that im nervous the filter isnt getting it all. I cant feel any water when i use my blow gun, but that dont mean anything.
Any suggestions?
 
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sberry

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Forget drops unless they are fixxed in place whips, that looks great. When you get ready pipe to that reel and over to one on the other wall and call it a day, use the cobbled setup for a while to get a feel and dont be scared to move it to make things work a little better.

That looks really good, very practical, you dont need lots of air drops.
 

TAMPAGT07

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Hey dirtroad, quick question? The electric wire connected to the compressor, that is rated for 240V correct? If not, you will burn out the motor....(I'm used to seeing orange, so I had to ask???
 

sberry

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You need to bend some rings out of rod or tubing for that hose reel though. I like a swivel mount and actually the least amount of equipment needed to do the work, duty cycle is considered here as only really one user at a time. Here you wouldnt need to add valve but t after your regulator and over to another reel on other side of building and you got it dicked.

I do not like hydrants with removable hoses, either fix a whip or come off a reel. If I had to start over would make a couple minor changes to all of this, it was just added as we went and it works, no need to fix it. Parts of this may have been revised since.

In the OP s case he has a convenient service valve, with hoses which are cheap plumb and relocate till it all works, then pipe. I would plumb a single circuit exact like he has with a couple additions to the secondary, all 1/2 pipe.
 

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DirtRoad

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Lowell, Mi
Its 12-2, rated for 20 amps, im feeding it with a 20 amp two pole breaker (however you say it). I marked the white wire for safety.

As far as drops go, im doing that when the walls are done. One drop on each wall, 1 50ft retractable on the big wall in the middle and a 25ft retractable on each side wall.
 
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DirtRoad

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The hose reel is going away someday anyways. Its been a great hose reel, HF of course, does not leak, been using it for 10 years. I always wanted to do what you did because thats the only complaint i have is it does not move side to side, you have to pull it straight out.
 

sberry

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All this reminds me,, I just walked out and found a new connector. I got one on a hoist tool whip that is hard to connect, it doesnt leak just difficult and everyone else accepts if for a matter of fact but when I used it the other day noticed it. Another great thing about simple is you dont get invested in lots of connectors, males or plugs are cheap, a female 10$ and another chance to leak or as likely installed and not used. With a handy main can simply add the most simple of parts, a t a hose barb and a clamp.
 

sberry

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In my case projects could be larger with multiple men on occasion, we can feed air from each side but its nice as that its all at the same potential, kind of like a tuned set of headers, when I put a gun on any given one its the same performance,,, especially since I am air gun maniac. I love my CP gun and the 4 speed.

The reason for that is pure laziness but there is no better way to pm cars on rough roads than make it easy to r & r wheels like a pit crew. Oil change, tire rotate, brake problems, wheels on and off. You got to do all that by hand and its too tedious, it plain doesnt get done.
 
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IHI

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So long s you dont do much with the husky- continuous duty, your fine. Friend bought the 5hp 60gallon unit yrs ago when we first built his garage. It held up long enough to sand his 78 malibu down and the reeds under the head took a ****. HD took it back/exchanged it. That one lasted 1 week and o ring tore.

it's the typical pitch i give my customers, the only people that can afford to be cheap are rich people, they can afford to do it twice. Tiz why it took me an extra month of saving pennies to get a IR 60 gallon. I wanted the big two stage but where I wanted to put it the motor housing plate was too big for the space so had to get the small one.:(
 
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DirtRoad

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Lowell, Mi
So long s you dont do much with the husky- continuous duty, your fine. Friend bought the 5hp 60gallon unit yrs ago when we first built his garage. It held up long enough to sand his 78 malibu down and the reeds under the head took a ****. HD took it back/exchanged it. That one lasted 1 week and o ring tore.

it's the typical pitch i give my customers, the only people that can afford to be cheap are rich people, they can afford to do it twice. Tiz why it took me an extra month of saving pennies to get a IR 60 gallon. I wanted the big two stage but where I wanted to put it the motor housing plate was too big for the space so had to get the small one.:(

I was told the same exact thing when i bought the 33 gallon craftsman oiless. 10 years later after very hard use it still works like the day it was new.

Besides this compressor is really a CH, i dont consider their compressors cheap junk. I guess some might.
 

aka Larry

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I have the same unit, except mine is red. Get yourself a Solberg silencer from Amazon and you'll hear the difference.
 
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DirtRoad

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I have the same unit, except mine is red. Get yourself a Solberg silencer from Amazon and you'll hear the difference.

Can you post a link for me?

Do you have any pics of your setup?

I really wanted the red one but i didnt want to pay extra for it since i didnt see much difference in the specs.
 

jackfork

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Springfield, MO
Is it common for folks to leave their compressor on the shipping skid? I have a 60 gallon Porter Cable compressor that after 15 years or so and one move still is, but didn't know if that was a common practice.
 
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DirtRoad

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Lowell, Mi
Is it common for folks to leave their compressor on the shipping skid? I have a 60 gallon Porter Cable compressor that after 15 years or so and one move still is, but didn't know if that was a common practice.

Im leaving mine on the pallet until i get the walls finished. Once that is done and i know for sure where i want it to be i will remove it from the pallet. Its easier to move around when its on the pallet too.
 
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DirtRoad

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I have another question, feel kinda silly for asking it.

How do you know what psi your getting at the end of your hose?
If i set my regulator to 100psi how do i know thats what im actually getting at the end of the hose?
 

gsmornot

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Hose end regulator. It will attach just before the tool and typically works as a step down on a higher pressure system or as a regulator in lieu of the one on the tank. Early on, I attached my tools and while watching the output regulator dial pulled the trigger and compensated for the drop. I have what you just left behind basically and with my system to get @100 I have the regulator set to about 120. Works good enough for the tools I use which do not currently include any grinders or paint gun, just impacts, ratchets and air up/off tools. Basic stuff.
 
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DirtRoad

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Where do i find a "hose end regulator"?
Could i just take a pressure gauge and put a quick connect male plug on it and use that to check the pressure at the end of the hose?
 

LG63

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Then i just slid it where i wanted it. I used deck screws and screwed the pallet right to the deck of my trailer.

Great idea. I never run out of uses for deck screws.....just added another to my list.
 
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DirtRoad

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Great idea. I never run out of uses for deck screws.....just added another to my list.

It just came to me a few days before going to get it. I grabbed a handful of 2.5 inch deck screws and my impact driver and brought them with me.

I only put one screw in each corner of the pallet. It was enough to secure it to the point when i tried to pull and push it the whole trailer moved with it. 4 deck screws made it part of the trailer lol.

I didn't even need the ratchet straps.

Drove 35 miles home with it.
 
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DirtRoad

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Do you guys think it would be a good idea to put in another filter right next to the one i have? Harbor freight has another one that is the same as the one i have except it has no regulator and they also have a bracket to join them together. Im still concerned about water getting to my tools.
 

CNGsaves

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Do you guys think it would be a good idea to put in another filter right next to the one i have? Harbor freight has another one that is the same as the one i have except it has no regulator and they also have a bracket to join them together. Im still concerned about water getting to my tools.

With your temporary setup, you're bound to get moisture all the way through since you immediately have rubber line right out of the compressor, and only rubber line thereafter. Really depends what all you're planning to do with the compressor . . . little stuff will be fine, but anything that constantly runs the compressor will generate moisture (ie sand blasting, air grinding, etc).

I'd recommend planning your long-term air line system by studying the prior GJ posts where black pipe steel has been used, along with Franzinators. Couple hundred dollars would get you a top notch solution, plus cool off the air before it ever got to the dryer and hose reel.
 
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DirtRoad

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Lowell, Mi
With your temporary setup, you're bound to get moisture all the way through since you immediately have rubber line right out of the compressor, and only rubber line thereafter. Really depends what all you're planning to do with the compressor . . . little stuff will be fine, but anything that constantly runs the compressor will generate moisture (ie sand blasting, air grinding, etc).

I'd recommend planning your long-term air line system by studying the prior GJ posts where black pipe steel has been used, along with Franzinators. Couple hundred dollars would get you a top notch solution, plus cool off the air before it ever got to the dryer and hose reel.

I already know what im going to do when i plumb it in, my plan will definetaly remove the moisture.

The problem is i cant do anything that will be expensive or labor intensive because once i put up the walls i will have to remove it all making the time and money i put into it a total waist.


I have to find a cheap temporary solution until i can get my walls up.
 
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