Finally building a shop! Post frame, advice needed!

[HIVOLTJ]

I finally have a piece of land where I can. Covenants allow up to a 2400 square ft. Detached shop and a 3 car attached garage. Shop can be 25 ft. Tall at the peak.

My side hustle is hobby car builder. I do mostly old ford truck things with a bit of mustang sprinkled in.

I do the whole YouTube thing on https://youtube.com/channel/UCxpI-Aqlzc0q8XmYvyKy2Tw

if you are interested in that.

I want to build in this configuration with the project cars off to the side and room to pull drivers, campers, trailer etc. Along the front.

I know that I want at least 14' ceiling for a future lift and two overhead doors this layout. Post frame 8' on center with some kind of permanent columns and concrete poured after. Insulation and heat later.

 

[HIVOLTJ]

My main question is bang for the buck and usability on size. 40'wide x 56' deep is my number one pick but that may be out of budget which is 50k-60k.

Would 38x56, 40x48 or something like that be a better deal?

Also custom 2000 Sq ft post frame house to follow bit I feel that deserves its own thread

 

[78SC4X4]

I think you'll want 40' wide for that configuration. A supercab will take 21' of that depth.

 

[nadogail]

The only guaranty is your project will cost more than your estimates.

 

[RPH]

Going to be tight inside. Are you sure the cars parked in a row can make that corner? 40 foot wide would be a much better choice.
Longer too, inside space seems to evaporate once enclosed.

 

[dcg9381]

Would 38x56, 40x48 or something like that be a better deal?

Generally bigger is slightly less expensive per sqft until you do something out of span.. 40x60 can be done clear span in red iron no problem... But even 4 years ago, a 40x60 clear span weld-up kit, basic foundation, and erection was around $72k and I'm in a "low labor cost" state. This was pretty much "turn key" costs - if you could do the foundation and erection, you *might* be within your budget.. I never choose to put one up myself when a few guys can have it done in 3-5 days.

You can get some pretty good bang for the buck in steel buildings by going "up" (within limits). A 16' eve will get you a decent mezzanine (later) as long as you're willing to live with 8' of ceiling height under it. I'd really recommend 18' eve.

My other "big" recommendations are a 48" man-door and shop doors that are at least 12' high/wide, 14' high is better. I like "drive through" designs, if the lot supports it.. Makes getting things in/out a lot easier.

 

[firebirdparts]

40 by 60.

 

[dv8customs]

I have a 30x40 and anything more than two vehicles actually being worked on at once is going to be crowded. Floor space fills up quickly with work benches, tool boxes, storage shelving etc.

You're looking at basically double that space so if you have more than 4 in there at once it will likely be more full than you expect.

 

[My Old Tools]

You can get roof height by using a steeper pitch instead of taller walls.

 

[scofo]

Dude! You have a limo with a hot tub in the back? Nice.

 

[HIVOLTJ]

it represents my camper which identifies as a limo. Won't be stored in there Long term. Would live in it while house being built

 

[HIVOLTJ]

Not impressed with my local cleary salesman at all unfortunately. Here is what I sketched up for a local private guy who said roughly $20 square foot.

He advised to go ahead and do 40x60 for a few more bucks

 

[inphx]

For the cars parked sideways i use the harborfreight rollers on the wheels to get them tight.

Keep an eye out for supermarket "gondola" shelves on craigslist or facebook marketplace, i was able to score a bunch that had risers tall enough to put floor to ceiling wall shelves and the cars tuck under them.