Finally building garage and have roofing/siding questions

[frankd]

So we're finally building a storage building/garage at our cabin. We're doing it all ourselves and trying to keep the build as cost effective as possible.

The building is 20 x 32. I think we're going with 2x6x12 rafters which would give us a pitch just under 6/12 but only provide about 8 inches of overhang.

For the roof it seems as though the cheapest option would either be regular 3 tab shingles or metal panels. I know that I need to use an underlayment for the 3 tab shingles but I was wondering if that's necessary with the metal panels? Can I just put the panels directly over the roof decking (19/32 OSB over 16" on center rafters)?


The other place that we're looking to save money is on the siding. The plan is to either use plywood siding panels over OSB or Vinyl siding over osb. The plywood siding seems like it would be the cheapest option but also requires painting and maintenance. Vinyl is more expensive unless we dont install foam board underneath- at which point the price will be about the same.
Does anyone know if it's ok to install the vinyl siding without foam underlayment?

Any other suggestions on how we could save a few bucks on this build?
The building will not be heated/cooled. Will probably add electric at some point. Right now we just need the space to store equipment as well as have covered space to do some woodworking.

 

[spudley]

Local codes will answer your questions, but you can save a few bucks by going with 1/2" OSB on a 16" centered, 6/12 pitched roof.

I'd spring for longer 2x6 rafters to increase pitch and overhang. You'll keep more water away from your building which is always a good idea. Or sister some extensions on the tails, if your inspector is amenable.

My neighbor used plywood siding 20 yrs ago, no OSB. Stained it twice, still looks great.

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, before you make an expensive mistake, request an informational interview with your local building inspection office and see if your schemes will have any hope of meeting their requirements.

 

[frankd]

Local codes will answer your questions, but you can save a few bucks by going with 1/2" OSB on a 16" centered, 6/12 pitched roof.

- I was actually going to use 1/2 but home depot only seemed to have 19/32 and it was pretty cheap to so I figured I'd use that. but if I can find 1/2 for a better price I'll surely use that.

I'd spring for longer 2x6 rafters to increase pitch and overhang. You'll keep more water away from your building which is always a good idea. Or sister some extensions on the tails, if your inspector is amenable.

- Good advice. I think we'll go with the longer overhang.

My neighbor used plywood siding 20 yrs ago, no OSB. Stained it twice, still looks great.

- Good to know. I assumed I would need to have something beneath the plywood siding.

 

[frankd]

IMHO, before you make an expensive mistake, request an informational interview with your local building inspection office and see if your schemes will have any hope of meeting their requirements.

I know I'm going to catch a lot of heat for this but we weren't planning on getting a permit. The cabin is located in a very rural area at the end of a dead end dirt road. We've got 50 acres and we're probably on one of the smaller lots on the road. When we built the cabin (probably almost 30 years ago now) my father went to the town to inquire about the proper permits. They had him draw out a sketch of the footprint of the house right then and there, he paid a permit fee, and that was it. Of course I'm sure the process is more detailed now. And you're right, We should get a permit. I'm fine with it but my old man will never go for it. Several of the neighbors have recently built garages (even one house) without any permits.

 

[bdbecker]

It's one thing to be thrifty, its another to be cheap. Get a permit. Build it to code.

 

[matt_i]

My 0.02...use architectural shingles. For a 20x32 its minimal savings and large gain in the DIY factor...its all random pattern (or looks this way) so any DIY mistakes will easily blend & hide. Its a thicker longer lasting shingle.

Imo you are correct that plywood is cheaper but the paint factor is there forevermore. Vinyl as soon as you're done its done forevermore (unless catastrophe strikes). There are some nuances with vinyl but easy to DIY.

All the stuff that I did to save a buck "right now" has come back to require more spending in 10-20 years later. So I would push you to think long term despite the slight extra cost. The biggest gain in savings will be to DIY those parts of the build.

 

[frankd]

My 0.02...use architectural shingles. For a 20x32 its minimal savings and large gain in the DIY factor...its all random pattern (or looks this way) so any DIY mistakes will easily blend & hide. Its a thicker longer lasting shingle.

Imo you are correct that plywood is cheaper but the paint factor is there forevermore. Vinyl as soon as you're done its done forevermore (unless catastrophe strikes). There are some nuances with vinyl but easy to DIY.

All the stuff that I did to save a buck "right now" has come back to require more spending in 10-20 years later. So I would push you to think long term despite the slight extra cost. The biggest gain in savings will be to DIY those parts of the build.

Good point on the roofing and plywood. I'm definitely leaning towards vinyl but my father had a deep hatred for the product. He had a painting business for 40+ years so that might explain it. I think I'm winning him over though.


With the vinyl, does anyone know if the foam board is necessary? i've read that it's for insulation purposes and a smooth surface to nail to. The building wont be insulated so I'm not worried about that. And with new construction I think the suface will be plenty smooth/straight.

 

[matt_i]

Good point on the roofing and plywood. I'm definitely leaning towards vinyl but my father had a deep hatred for the product. He had a painting business for 40+ years so that might explain it. I think I'm winning him over though.


With the vinyl, does anyone know if the foam board is necessary? i've read that it's for insulation purposes and a smooth surface to nail to. The building wont be insulated so I'm not worried about that. And with new construction I think the suface will be plenty smooth/straight.

I put vinyl directly over the housewrap which was on top of the plywood sheating. No foam necessary.

There is low budget vinyl and mid-grade vinyl and then high-end vinyl like the cedar shake lookalike material. I would recommend the mid grade stuff.

 

[spudley]

When we built the cabin (probably almost 30 years ago now) my father went to the town to inquire about the proper permits. They had him draw out a sketch of the footprint of the house right then and there, he paid a permit fee, and that was it. Of course I'm sure the process is more detailed now.

Yeh, I built a lake house 23 yrs ago and the permitting was similar. Went to the "zoning" lady's house on a Sunday afternoon, drew out the plan on her kitchen table. $50 later I had my permit. No inspections.

Not so easy anymore.

Three years ago I started on my garage build permitting process which took well over a year with the "new" streamlined system. Because the county determined my design required a variance (even though 40 other properties on the lake have the same situation without variances), they sent me to the town plan commission, then the town board, then the county board of adjustment. Finally after all that was approved back to the town for a local building permit. Of course these mtgs are all calendared dates which are spread out over several months and each mtg required a day off work as I live 200 miles from the build site, so I spent close to $2000 acquiring the permit, with travel and lost wages figured in.

The "penalty" around here for building (to code) without a permit is double fees. I would've been time and money ahead. Time being more important as I'm now an old guy. But I was a good boy scout and lost that year to paperwork. All that for a garage...

BTW, no matter how far back in the woods you are, the eyes in the skies are watching.

 

[nmk_61802]

Either roof I would install underlayment on...Cheap insurance. Myself, not a fan of metal, and one mistake is costly. With shingles, a mistake is easily repairable.

Vinyl siding only needs foam if the underlayment needs correction (wavy sheating or existing lap siding). Vinyl does need housewrap though, as the vinyl itself is not water tight. Again some may disagree, but I prefer vinyl... low maintenance and easy to repair.

 

[rburke65]

Going cheap never saves you money.

 

[CraigStu]

You might also look at T1-11 for siding. Use it as the sheathing and siding. 30 yrs ago I built a playhouse this way. I carefully painted both sides and all edges w/ solid color stain prior to install. Rolled on one more coat after install. I think somewhere around 15 yrs ago I rolled on another coat and it still looks good today.

 

[yeldogt]

Using the cheapest products when building always bites if you keep the place. OSB that's too thin or rafters spaced too far apart will get you a wavy roof in time. Spend the extra 1k on better products and it will pay you back many times in 20 years

Vinyl siding leaks like crazy ... you need a proper house wrap under it. The foam is not needed ..

Be careful with metal roofing with exposed fasteners ... you must have a full underlayment of the proper type if you want it to be water proof.

Base sheets for asphalt products are not expensive.

 

[frankd]

Thanks everyone for the great tips and feedback. I'll talk it over with the old man and see how he wants to proceed. I've always been one to over-build something and pay now for higher quality, longer lasting materials but my father is the exact opposite. I even offered to pay for the whole structure but he wouldn't allow it.

Based on the recommendations above we'll probably use plywood on the roof and OSB on the walls. Will likely use longer rafters for more overhang. 3 tab or architectural shingles. The siding will probably end up being plywood siding (over osb) T1-11 or similar.