Finally busted my HF breaker bar

[cherrybomb]

I have 1/2 Proto and a 1/2 S.K.I rely and trust either to get the job done.I prefer the U.S brands.I also think if a guy had a 3/4 bar,if he used a reducer,it seems to be the weak point,but the 3/4 sockets get pricey,so you really have to decide how much use the bigger stuff will be used.My self,and this is just me.No way in hell,I would travel back and forth to HF to replace a bar to get a project completed,good price or warrenty either.My closet HF has a ice cream across the street,and that wouldn't even do it.

 

[jgromada]

I have that same breaker bar , I used mine with a 10' length of cheater pipe over top the handle to loosen up a harmonic balancer. I even used a HF wrench wedged into frame to keep the engine from turning. Worked great. My DeWalt impact couldn't get it off.

So i consider this quite an achievement. But i suppose you apply enough forces anything will break.

 

[Dakkyz]

Bahco made in the USA ones, basically snap on @ 1/4 no warranty (that I know of) come in all the normal sizes and 600mm and 900mm variants.

8169-1/2 - 600mm
8170-1/2 - 900mm

if anyone's interested.

 

[DFB]

Ya that's probably the main thing about using a reducer it will usually break before anything else does

 

[nh_yota]

I've had a 24" 1/2" drive Tekton breaker bar for a few years now and it's held up pretty well.

 

[Mr_John]

I love Snapon stuff, but it's hard to argue in favor of a $200 breaker bar when there really isn't all that much to a breaker bar -- and the HF one lasted the OP for years, and has a lifetime warranty. In addition, the ICON breaker LOOKS a little nicer, but the differences are hardly worth the price increase... same goes for fancy breakers from any of the other "premium" names, as well.

 

[DSLTRK]

As a machine design engineer I once did a stress analysis of the two designs for a different purpose. It turns out there is absolutely no difference in the stress and strain between the two. The difference in strength will come from materials and dimensions.

Of course, but more often then not the reversed joint has more mass around the pivot, hence the strength increase. Real world use shows this to be the case also.

Unless access is a concern when using a two foot long breaker bar, the extra 1/8" head size is negligible.

 

[Tul]

OP, is the HF 1/2" x 25" breaker bar?

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-67933.html

Here's a link to a YouTube video that found HF breaker bar is as strong as Snap-on, Matco, and Mac:

Sears has a $20 sale for 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" breaker bars, though they don't specify maximum torque:'

https://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-p...SellerId=Sears&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

I've got two sets, but don't use them much. I will start to test their limits.

As someone else suggested, Tekton lists maximum torque for their ratchets and breaker bars. The 1/2" works up to 560 ft-lbs:

https://www.tekton.com/breaker-bars?quantity=1&drive-size=3-8-in&length=18-in

Does HF give those specs anywhere?

 

[Mr_B]

^
wouldn't go as far to say that video finds pitts pro bar equal to the truck ones.
Would need push them further than did and multiple time for fatigue handling, the way the pitts pro bends shows the lower alloy quality and fact it will be fatiguing in heavy continuous use ...
It great value for money but the alloy grade and quality control what lets them down and that why some last well and others bust first time lean on them .
With the warranty HF offer currently it no big deal but from safety point of you and if intending work it hard I would spend little more for better even if go used route .

 

[Tul]

^
wouldn't go as far to say that video finds pitts pro bar equal to the truck ones.
Would need push them further than did and multiple time for fatigue handling, the way the pitts pro bends shows the lower alloy quality and fact it will be fatiguing in heavy continuous use ...
It great value for money but the alloy grade and quality control what lets them down and that why some last well and others bust first time lean on them .
With the warranty HF offer currently it no big deal but from safety point of you and if intending work it hard I would spend little more for better even if go used route .

Thanks. Snap-on won't warranty used tools.

I totally hear you about HF quality control - or lack thereof. I had a 3/8" fixed head chrome ratchet that had an anvil too thick to fit two of my US Craftsman sockets that I've had for years. Tried out two other HFs and they fit like a glove.

OTOH, I've returned or warrantied a few HF since I started buying them, and never had a hassle. The only problem is that it's 36 miles out of my way plus bridge toll, so I wait to go when I have other errands in the area

 

[Stevenn1]

I like the SK breaker bars.

 

[Fluelikesymptoms]

No way in hell,I would travel back and forth to HF to replace a bar to get a project completed,good price or warrenty either.My closet HF has a ice cream across the street,and that wouldn't even do it.

When I broke my hf breaker bars I was young and broke. Now that I am older, I might not know it all, but I've learned a bit. One of those things is I am still too poor to buy cheap.

Your arguement is the same approach I have, expecially when I hear someone mention how "convenient" it is to buy the cheap stuff from harbor freight.

 

[Aroberson77]

I have a craftsman taiwan breaker bar and it does well. I broke a HF bar at the square drive point, suspect it was a bad casting, my replacement hasnt broken

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[ToolCrazyDude]

I personally would get 2-3 of the harbor freight pro breaker bars and as they break, move to my backup until I warranty it. You can buy multiple quality harbor freight bars cheaper than any name brand and replace them quickly and easily. I'm all for **** tools, but if budget is really driving you, it's hard to beat harbor freight even when buying multiple of the same tool...

 

[Mechanical Noise]

^
, the way the pitts pro bends shows the lower alloy quality and fact it will be fatiguing in heavy continuous use ...

The fact that the bar can bend quite a bit without breaking indicates that the alloy, itself, is adequate for the job. A soft alloy would get bent permanently.

There is very little difference in the stiffness (Young's modulus) of various steel alloys. There is great deal of difference in the hardness of the steel alloys.

The HF bar is too thin to be stiff.

 

[Mr_B]

The fact that the bar can bend quite a bit without breaking indicates that the alloy, itself, is adequate for the job. A soft alloy would get bent permanently.

There is very little difference in the stiffness (Young's modulus) of various steel alloys. There is great deal of difference in the hardness of the steel alloys.

The HF bar is too thin to be stiff.

I see a lot of stiffness variation in the alloy on others of same diameter, one being my britool . pitts pro is less dense, far more flexible and that leads to fatigue cracks over time .

 

[Mechanical Noise]

I see a lot of stiffness variation in the alloy on others of same diameter, one being my britool . pitts pro is less dense, far more flexible and that leads to fatigue cracks over time .

"For all practical purposes, modulus of elasticity of all tool steels in all conditions is about 210 GPa (30 × 106 psi) at room temperature"

https://www.amesweb.info/Materials/Youngs-Modulus-of-Steel.aspx

Consider the tool as working like a very stiff spring. Springs, operated within their limits, don't break with continual flexing.

There isn't much difference in the density of various steels, either.

 

[Mr_B]

Consider the tool as working like a very stiff spring. Springs, operated within their limits, don't break with continual flexing.

There isn't much difference in the density of various steels, either.

poor quality springs sag or break in short life time much like the bar if poor alloy/ manufacture treatment .
You can feel the weight difference in lot of cheaper tools and when it breaks you can visually see the alloy difference in some cases .

 

[cherrybomb]

i personally would get 2-3 of the harbor freight pro breaker bars and as they break, move to my backup until i warranty it. You can buy multiple quality harbor freight bars cheaper than any name brand and replace them quickly and easily. I'm all for **** tools, but if budget is really driving you, it's hard to beat harbor freight even when buying multiple of the same tool...

what?????????

 

[Stevenn1]

My biggest concern is that whenever I brake a tool it usually causes an injury to me as well.

 

[Tul]

The fact that the bar can bend quite a bit without breaking indicates that the alloy, itself, is adequate for the job. A soft alloy would get bent permanently.

There is very little difference in the stiffness (Young's modulus) of various steel alloys. There is great deal of difference in the hardness of the steel alloys.

The HF bar is too thin to be stiff.

At what thickness do breaker bars become stiff?

 

[ToolCrazyDude]

what?????????

Tools can break, so when it makes sense, I think it's a good idea to have a spare. When you can get harbor freight breaker bars for $15/piece why not get 2?

Attached is a photo of the drive that broke off a made in USA craftsman breaker bar. A backup harbor freight got the job done. To each his own...

I totally get the comment that it's optimal to avoid breaking tools as it normally corresponds to an injury. My personal opinion is that you don't get much more performance for the $ until you get in the tool truck brands which are big $$$. Just my 2 cents...

 

[Tul]

Tools can break, so when it makes sense, I think it's a good idea to have a spare. When you can get harbor freight breaker bars for $15/piece why not get 2?

Attached is a photo of the drive that broke off a made in USA craftsman breaker bar. A backup harbor freight got the job done. To each his own...

I totally get the comment that it's optimal to avoid breaking tools as it normally corresponds to an injury. My personal opinion is that you don't get much more performance for the $ until you get in the tool truck brands which are big $$$. Just my 2 cents...

What were the circumstances surrounding the anvil breakage of that breaker bar? Were you using a cheater bar?

 

[xin]

I love Snapon stuff, but it's hard to argue in favor of a $200 breaker bar when there really isn't all that much to a breaker bar -- and the HF one lasted the OP for years, and has a lifetime warranty. In addition, the ICON breaker LOOKS a little nicer, but the differences are hardly worth the price increase... same goes for fancy breakers from any of the other "premium" names, as well.

Medical bills from the cheap breaker bar snapping can add up to thousands to tens of thousands.

Kinda like car insurance one pays and pays, home insurance same deal one can find it cheaper just wait till you need it. With a 1/2 or so one is putting a LOT of power/torque on it and it can break doing other damage. Buy it once and have it for years, got Snapon and MAC breakbars never been disappointed.

 

[Mechanical Noise]

At what thickness do breaker bars become stiff?

They get stiffer with increasing thickness. As I recall, it's a square law relationship but it's been a while. A given increase in thickness will give a disproportionate increase in stiffness.

It's impossible to make a bar completely inflexible but stiff enough is good enough.

I have a HF bar, the one with the split head rather than the split yolk. I've put alot of torque through it and it bends but hasn't broken. If it breaks, I'm sure it would break somewhere at the drive end where there's maximum stress.

The HF bar economizes on the thin-ish tool steel shaft were it isn't going to break but only bend.

And it's a little too flexible at high torques for my taste.

 

[Tul]

They get stiffer with increasing thickness. As I recall, it's a square law relationship but it's been a while. A given increase in thickness will give a disproportionate increase in stiffness.

It's impossible to make a bar completely inflexible but stiff enough is good enough.

I have a HF bar, the one with the split head rather than the split yolk. I've put alot of torque through it and it bends but hasn't broken. If it breaks, I'm sure it would break somewhere at the drive end where there's maximum stress.

The HF bar economizes on the thin-ish tool steel shaft were it isn't going to break but only bend.

And it's a little too flexible at high torques for my taste.

Thanks. I don't understand the difference between split head and split yoke. Can you post photos of each?

 

[Mechanical Noise]

Thanks. I don't understand the difference between split head and split yoke. Can you post photos of each?

Split head/split yoke are my terms. Manufacturers might use something else. Anyway, here are pics of the HF split head breaker bar and the HF split yoke bar:

 

[Tul]

Split head/split yoke are my terms. Manufacturers might use something else. Anyway, here are pics of the HF split head breaker bar and the HF split yoke bar:

thanks

 

[ChrisLS8]

Medical bills from the cheap breaker bar snapping can add up to thousands to tens of thousands.

Kinda like car insurance one pays and pays, home insurance same deal one can find it cheaper just wait till you need it. With a 1/2 or so one is putting a LOT of power/torque on it and it can break doing other damage. Buy it once and have it for years, got Snapon and MAC breakbars never been disappointed.

Any brand can make a decent breaker. Its literally one of the simplest tools you can produce so it's not surprising that the Pittsburgh Pro is similar in performance to SO

 

[L.Cheapo]

I personally would get 2-3 of the harbor freight pro breaker bars and as they break, move to my backup until I warranty it. You can buy multiple quality harbor freight bars cheaper than any name brand and replace them quickly and easily. I'm all for **** tools, but if budget is really driving you, it's hard to beat harbor freight even when buying multiple of the same tool...

As a bonus, once your insurance deductible is met for the year, subsequent ER visits are much cheaper too.

 

[ToolCrazyDude]

As a bonus, once your insurance deductible is met for the year, subsequent ER visits are much cheaper too.

Haha! If safety is the primary concern, then I say spend a few more bucks over the high end breaker bars and get a milwaukee high torque impact..

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Wrenches/2767-20

I only pick up a breaker bar if there isn't enough clearance to get the high torque or mid torque in there.

 

[Shadowdog500]

Buy a good 1/2” impact wrench and get on with your life. I use pneumatic but also use a Dewalt 20v when not in the shop.

A couple months ago a friend was wrestling with pipes a breaker bars doing the front end on his 3500 truck. He said the first side took him over a day just to break everything loose. I told him to get the Dewalt high torque impact and get on with his life. He called me that night and said the second side only took 15-20 minutes to get apart with no fuss at all using the Dewalt.

Chris

 

[Tul]

Buy a good 1/2” impact wrench and get on with your life. I use pneumatic but also use a Dewalt 20v when not in the shop.

A couple months ago a friend was wrestling with pipes a breaker bars doing the front end on his 3500 truck. He said the first side took him over a day just to break everything loose. I told him to get the Dewalt high torque impact and get on with his life. He called me that night and said the second side only took 15-20 minutes to get apart with no fuss at all.

Chris

Thanks. The problem is that there are times when space is tight and I can't fit a power tool in.

 

[DSLTRK]

Attached is a photo of the drive that broke off a made in USA craftsman breaker bar. A backup harbor freight got the job done. To each his own...

That doesn't look like a USA forged Craftsman breaker bar anvil.

I've never seen a chromed and polished anvil on a Craftsman breaker bar, unless it was the Taiwanese Canadian Craftsman.

Do you have the handle?

 

[Steiger9]

OP, is the HF 1/2" x 25" breaker bar?

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-67933.html

Here's a link to a YouTube video that found HF breaker bar is as strong as Snap-on, Matco, and Mac:

Yes it's the HF 25" but with the plastic handle.

And that's the video that prompted me to buy it in the first place. But like I said, I wasn't yanking like a gorilla when it broke, just what I would consider a "normal" amount, so it had to have had some stress fractures weakening it over time. I really wish that Real Tool Reviews fella would have tested the breaker bars to failure. I think the numbers would have told a different story.

 

[Coach James]

That doesn't look like a USA forged Craftsman breaker bar anvil.

I've never seen a chromed and polished anvil on a Craftsman breaker bar, unless it was the Taiwanese Canadian Craftsman.

Do you have the handle?

I have a C-man V series breaker bar that appears to be chromed on the anvil. Not shiny polish finish though.

Coach

 

[DSLTRK]

I have a C-man V series breaker bar that appears to be chromed on the anvil. Not shiny polish finish though.

Coach

Oh I know what you're talking about.

Now I'm tool geeking here, but it also looks machined. As you know the early chromed V series had hand ground anvils.

 

[Wamsutta]

Some of you guys are saying it's OK for a breaker bar to break; just replace it with another cheap one. But sometimes that can be a safety issue if you have your body all bowed up and the thing lets go....

 

[ekimneirbo]

Just get you a piece of strong pipe or solid round stock . Drill a hole in one end and slip the square head of the broken breaker bar in place and weld it. Then you can make it whatever length you want. Make it twice as long and see how much that helps. Eventually you will reach the limit of strength of the square lug if you have a long enough lever.

If you only need this leverage for one size nut, just weld an impact socket to the steel pipe or bar. Then buy another HF bar for the more normal jobs.

 

[Hytekrednek]

I want the 24'' long 1/2'' drive Koken breaker bar, but cant find a seller that will ship to usa. I love the koken ratchets with the knurled handles, so I think the breaker bar would be very nice too