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FINALLY designing my electrical in the garage...HELP!!

Captain America

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It has been two years since we moved into a foreclosed house with a detached 23 X 30 and 9' ceiling garage, and now it is time to fix up my hideout.

The garage has never been finished (blank slate). When I moved in there was one outlet and no light. I'm still using the one outlet but HAD to install a light. The electrical panel is 200amp and located in the garage, which is NICE.

The walls and ceiling will be finished with OSB with a rusted tin wainscoting and cedar moulding. I like the rustic look.

My thoughts....

1 - 20 amp circuit for lights and ceiling fans
2 - 20 amp circuits for outlets (10 per circuit at 16" and 50") and garage door openers Liftmaster 8500
2 - 30 amp circuits
1 - 50 amp circuit outside for RV

As for lights I'm thinking 6...http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia...-Light-C-2-32-120-GESB/100543144?N=5yc1vZc9h7
Or should I use the lights with the reflectors? I'm also going to connect them to turn on with the liftmaster switch. Which way should I mount them, BLUE or GREEN??
I used the visual 3D design http://www.visual-3d.com/tools/interior/default.aspx?id=14782

WIFI...http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H4CDF4/?tag=atomicindus08-20 Connect to my router.


Here is a simple diagram....had to borrow my kids colored pencils!

What am I forgetting?!

Any suggestions be greatly appreciated..Thanks Garage Journal!!
 

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gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
50 amp for welder

30 amp for air compressor

30 amp for plasma

30 amp for dust collection.

50 amp for stove to do your own powder coating

20 amp for fridge for beer or??

Just run the wire for extra's before you sheet the walls.

You didn't mention what type of work you plan on doing so I covered a few extra bases for you.

Have fun with you new hideout.
 
OP
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Captain America

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Garage is going to be used for parking vehicles at night, basic vehicle maintenance and odd and end projects. I will have a long workbench with cabinets on the right wall (looking at diagram).

After reading generator thread, might go ahead and connect an interlock.

I'm not installing insulation so adding outlets and running wire in the future will be easy.
 

sberry

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This is unfinished with a convenient panel with garage interior. You don't even have to do it all at once. My neighbor has aprox the same as the op, similar circuits. 2 generals do all the work even with lots of machine tools.
 

3-D

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Apr 8, 2015
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Vermont
It has been two years since we moved into a foreclosed house with a detached 23 X 30 and 9' ceiling garage, and now it is time to fix up my hideout.

The garage has never been finished (blank slate). When I moved in there was one outlet and no light. I'm still using the one outlet but HAD to install a light. The electrical panel is 200amp and located in the garage, which is NICE.

The walls and ceiling will be finished with OSB with a rusted tin wainscoting and cedar moulding. I like the rustic look.

My thoughts....

1 - 20 amp circuit for lights and ceiling fans
2 - 20 amp circuits for outlets (10 per circuit at 16" and 50") and garage door openers Liftmaster 8500
2 - 30 amp circuits
1 - 50 amp circuit outside for RV

As for lights I'm thinking 6...http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia...-Light-C-2-32-120-GESB/100543144?N=5yc1vZc9h7
Or should I use the lights with the reflectors? I'm also going to connect them to turn on with the liftmaster switch. Which way should I mount them, BLUE or GREEN??
I used the visual 3D design http://www.visual-3d.com/tools/interior/default.aspx?id=14782

WIFI...http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H4CDF4/?tag=atomicindus08-20 Connect to my router.


Here is a simple diagram....had to borrow my kids colored pencils!

What am I forgetting?!

Any suggestions be greatly appreciated..Thanks Garage Journal!!

Hi Captain,
I would add just a few things,
Place an outlet between the bays on the ceiling. That way at some point you could get a retractable cord reel down the road for easy access to power between the cars. As for the lights, I would switch to 8ft long, Super T-8, 4 lamp, duel ballast fixtures. You could do bi level lighting (2 switches control 1/2 of all lights) it will save you $$ when lower light level will do yet still give you the option of more when needed at a flick of a switch! As for the reflectors a MUST. 2/3 +/- more light output from each fixture then units without them. I install them in all the schools. I'm not sure if you have glass in your garage doors. If you do, place the lights above the doors (when open) so you still get some light from the fixtures when doors are open. (run lights in line with garage door windows) I would also locate your workbench area. Place a row of lights above that 30" out from the wall. When you get old and your assembling your kids projects for school at 11:30pm your not working in your shadow. LOL. I installed an occupancy control for the lights in my shop (40x50). My kids never remember to turn off the lights. It will also kick them on (or 1/2 bi level) when you drive in and auto off when no activity is in the shop.
All just food for thought!
Enjoy your hideout!
3-D
Vermont
 
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Captain America

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I would love to do the setup platonic solid suggested; however, my wife would be SHOCKED if I spent $500 on lighting! I'm thinking either 9 - 4' fixtures or 6 - 8' fixtures with reflectors.

Good call on the garage door glass, but my doors are solid so there will be a bank blocked by the door in the up position.

Since I'm using the Liftmaster switch and decide to use duel ballast fixture I can use the Liftmaster to switch on half the lights with the door and a wall switch to turn on the remaining.

Ummmmm, decisions, decisions
 

Platonic Solid

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Regardless of what you chose, 9ft ceilings are too low for reflectors. $500 for 15 fixtures is a bargain. A garage isn't much of a workshop without decent lighting IMO.
 

JimD1

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Sep 8, 2011
Messages
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My shop garage is 14x24 - smaller. I used 6 inexpensive two bulb light fixtures and put 60W equivalent CFLs in them. These are the fixtures sold 2 for $20 at home depot and Lowes. I think I have enough light but, if not, I'll put in 100W equivalent CFLs.

I don't use any 220V tools so I have just one 20A 120V circuit for tools and one 15A circuit for lights and a few outlets.

I'm still working on it. It is wired and I have 6 sheets of OSB up on the walls. I skim coat the OSB with drywall compound and paint it white with ceiling paint. It brightens the shop up significantly for very little money. Ceiling is 5/8 fire rated since there is a bedroom above it.

This weekend I made the basic carcase for a 8 foot base cabinet and a support of PT 2x4s to get it off the concrete. It is screwed and glued together but not fastened to the walls or PT base. I'm letting the glue set and will probably fasten it down tomorrow after work. It will have all drawers for storage of tools. On top will go my CMS and RAS. I'm slowly making progress.

Good luck on your garage. It sounds like you have some good ideas.
 
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Captain America

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Well Hell, I shouldn't of read the entire "the best light fixture ever" thread, because now I would like to do the Cooper strip light with the Samsung LED bulb. I think I am putting too much thought into lighting, but I want it done right the first time on a budget.

I will propable go with 9 - 4' fixtures from HD, but what bulb do y"all recommend with OSB colored walls? After veiwing Platonic Solid spreadsheet (very informational), I am thinking https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/85719/PHILIPS-280859.html since it has the highest lumen output.

Garage Journal is like a bottomless pit with great ideas and information, my garage todo list keeps growing!

I will start a build thread when I start the work.
 

3-D

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Well Hell, I shouldn't of read the entire "the best light fixture ever" thread, because now I would like to do the Cooper strip light with the Samsung LED bulb. I think I am putting too much thought into lighting, but I want it done right the first time on a budget.

I will propable go with 9 - 4' fixtures from HD, but what bulb do y"all recommend with OSB colored walls? After veiwing Platonic Solid spreadsheet (very informational), I am thinking https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/85719/PHILIPS-280859.html since it has the highest lumen output.

Garage Journal is like a bottomless pit with great ideas and information, my garage todo list keeps growing!

I will start a build thread when I start the work.

Yike! no glass in garage doors..... Then next best thing is use an extra fixture in the first row nearest the garage doors and place one between the trac (parallel) of the two doors and near each outside trac, lower them using jack chain so lamps are just below trac height and fixture housing is above. Then regardless if your doors are open or closed you will always get good lighting for that area.
Just more food!
3-D
Vermont
 
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barnjunkie

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Hold on, let me figure this out....
 

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Captain America

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I decide to go with 12 fixtures, 3 rows of 4 fixtures on 2 circuits. I'm going to alternate lights on 2 circuits, one circuit will be operated by liftmaster switch and will come on when opening the garage and the other circuit with a regular wall switch.

Thanks platonic solid for the light diagram! You have been very helpful
 
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Captain America

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Right now I have a 1.5 HP 26 gallon compressor. But, one day I am sure I'm going to up grade. I plan on running 10 gauge wire to the panel ( not hooked to a breaker) and coiling the rest in the attic.
So one day if I need a 30amp somewhere in the garage, I just throw a breaker in, hook up the wire and drop wire to a old work box where I need an outlet.
 

Bib Overalls

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It gets hot in Texas. I suggest you talk with a HVAC service to size your load assuming the building has been insulated. Then prewire for A/C or heat pump unit.
 

Colotow

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Tooele, Ut
Maybe put a 125 amp sub panel with 12 or more positions on the far side of the garage, easier to run that side, no need to run romex all the way across for each circuit, and can run more separate circuits.

Next, run a couple 1 1/2" conduits up into the attic, anything you want to add later can then be fished up with no need to tear out a wall
 

outsider347

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Orchard Park NY
Here's a generic footcandle isoplot comparison of standard reflectance walls-ceilings vs bare OSB:


Platonic
For My soon built 20x34x12 pole barn
I plan to insulate, & dry wall, ceiling an walls, Ceiling will be painted white, as well as the walls from about 4 ft from the floor
Would you suggest the same lighting layout?

Tks
ed
 
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Captain America

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After garage sale, kid sports, and life in general, I'm finally able to start wiring my garage! Got all my supplies (minus light fixtures), but I'm sure I will make a Home Depot run because I forgot something.

Let the WORK begin!!
 

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Platonic Solid

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OT

Platonic
For My soon built 20x34x12 pole barn
I plan to insulate, & dry wall, ceiling an walls, Ceiling will be painted white, as well as the walls from about 4 ft from the floor
Would you suggest the same lighting layout?

Tks
ed
No, I would mount the fixtures similar to the 30x30x14 Steel Pole Barn (12' Walls, 15'9" peak, 3/12 Pitch) see posts #24 & #25 of the Light Fixture Layout Collection thread. Hmm, but you say you're drywalling the ceiling - so I assume you have complete mounting location flexibility. Put a post with spec drawing in the Light Fixture Collection thread and I'll take a closer look at it.
 
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cybrdyke

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Captain America,
A couple of thoughts.....
I'd go with the name brand lamp for a few pennies more. The Philips, Sylvania, GE are easier to deal with than Ushio if there's ever a problem.
Change the lumens on your visual3D to 2725 if you use a 3100 lumen lamp. You have an .88 ballast factor you're dealing with.
Consider changing the wall reflectance to a lower level since you're using rusted metal and wood. 25% might be closer.
Good luck.
CD
 
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