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Finally finished....

kunkernator

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My new compressor rig!!!!
yra8y5up.jpg


HF 29 gal, and a 2008 Husky USA made 60 gal. Plumbed together, working together, providing a massive 89 gallons of air!!! I spent the last week plumbing it, as well as wiring the 240 for the big one. I also made a few modifications, including custom air filters, custom breather, ball valve drain offs. There is three outlets; one unregulated, one regulated, and one oiled/regulated. I am running it at a system pressure of 145psi, and it works GREAT

uha5udes.jpg


sa5a9apa.jpg


More pics to come.....
 
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ddawg16

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Did you use PVC for the airlines?

Just kidding.....

How did you set up the power for them? Do they both come on based on the pressure sw or do you have separate switches so you can turn on one for general use and if you plan to break out the sand blaster...turn on the second for more sustained volumn?
 

zkling

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Sweet setup :thumbup:

One thing you may want to consider is to isolate that transfer line. Somehow make it so it is not rigid and free hanging. The vibrations between the two compressors could be bad for the structure overtime. Weakened structure under pressure --> No fun situation. Especially the one on the smaller black compressore leading to the pressure valve. Just a slight movement in the compressor could put one heck of a moment on the line and thus tiny pressure switch threads. Just a thought :beer:
 

TwoInch

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i know you spent a week plumbing it, but just as has been mentioned above, you MUST get rid of the rigid piping connecting the two together. just like when large shops are plumbed, there is a small section of air hose connecting the compressor to the hard line plumbing to isolate the vibrations.

that will fail, probably fairly quickly too.
 

Outlawmws

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There is another way to provide "strain relief" using har pipe:

Decouple the diagonal, move the lower section so it is vertical or near it. add 2 90 degree elbows, one to turn it 90 deg perpendicular to the current "direction"; the other to point it back. Then reconnect to the double elbow. the "flex" joint will keep the vibrations from directly affecting the pipes where the straight shot has no where to go.
 
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kunkernator

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I have it set up so one pump is running, unless I need sustained air for sand blasting, where both pumps can be turned on. As for the harmonic vibrations stuff; I did think of this in the first place, my solution was to mount both compressors on rubber pads (I made little rubber feet out of some old tires). Is this sufficient? I do like the idea one guy suggested about the braided hose. I may go and look at Lowes tomorrow. Thanks for the replies.
 

zkling

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As for the harmonic vibrations stuff; I did think of this in the first place, my solution was to mount both compressors on rubber pads (I made little rubber feet out of some old tires). Is this sufficient?

No, you need to isolate that hard line from the tanks in some fashion. Actually, by putting it on soft rubber pads you could have made the current setup even worse. That is alot of stress put on the tank fitting of the red compressor, but more importantly the pressure switch of the black compressor.
 

TwoInch

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No, you need to isolate that hard line from the tanks in some fashion. Actually, by putting it on soft rubber pads you could have made the current setup even worse. That is alot of stress put on the tank fitting of the red compressor, but more importantly the pressure switch of the black compressor.

agreed. there needs to be some sort of flexible hose in-between the two compressors. you dont have to have flexible hose all the way.

my advice, and how i will be doing the same thing is just adding a tee'd pipe between the regulator and the pressure switch box, and adding a regular old 3/8" high flow female coupler. then i will use 1/2" or larger air hose with two 3/8" male coupler ends, one on each end. this will connect the two compressors so that i can work off the regular regulator on the one compressor as i normally do. that pre-regulator coupler will also allow the use of unregulated air to be used with large high flow couplers, giving the highest flow possible, if thats ever needed.

with your set up, it would actually be easier to just do this... take the added pipe off the black compressor. replace the brass coupler that came with it, and use a 3/8" high flow coupler, or a milton V coupler in its place. then add another coupler(same high flow) to the spot that you have the black pipe coming out of the red compressor. now buy a 4ft or 6ft piece of 1/2" air hose, and put the two 3/8"male ends on it like i mentioned above. hook the two compressors together that way. then put your manifold/couplers on the red compressors regulator like normal, and use that to run airline to your tools. that would be the easiest way to do it with your current set up IMO
 
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CNGsaves

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+1 to use the hardline airline (ie black pipe steel) for an actual airline system attached to wall up and around perimeter of shop. Besides with a proper black pipe airline system that immediately goes up and then around perimeter until you need to add a drop, it will allow the compressed air to cool and drop out any moisture. It's NOT a good idea to have rubber hose immediately off of the compressor.

The compressors themselves should have a flexible connection to the airline system by way of an affordable high pressure hydraulic line (ie 3/4" would be appropriate for your setup). Tractor supply has what you will need. See link below for solution that's only $25 for 3 ft hose.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/hydraulic-hose-assembly-3-4-in-x-36-in
 
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sk farmer

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why did you put two air compressors in front of the water heater? i see that as not being real helpful to the eventual replacement of the water heater. i can almost guarantee the compressors will outlive the water heater.

oops tool fool beat me....
 

Outlawmws

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No, you need to isolate that hard line from the tanks in some fashion. Actually, by putting it on soft rubber pads you could have made the current setup even worse. That is alot of stress put on the tank fitting of the red compressor, but more importantly the pressure switch of the black compressor.

:+1: on this ^^^

And forget about replacing the water heater, how will you access it ro re-light the pilot light when needed... :p
 

allinon72

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Air compressors can be moved guys, it's not like they are secured to bedrock. Moving 2 medium sized air compressors every 10 years is not a big deal.
 

2mJps

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I have 2 compressers that i am going to hook together. I wonder how they will run? Will the smaller 1 work harder than ever? Would it be good to have the small 1 come on at a diffrent presser than the other?
 
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kunkernator

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:+1: on this ^^^

And forget about replacing the water heater, how will you access it ro re-light the pilot light when needed... :p

I can move the compressors easily, and it is electric; no pilot light.

I am definitely going to isolate the vibrations. I am most likely going to just buy that braided hose. I will go to lowes tomorrow.

And for whomever was asking how it works out; i love the setup, more stress is on the black pump, but only because of the cutoffs i have set.
 

Outlawmws

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zkling

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theknurl, you need to do some home work before you get someone injured or killed. NEVER use PVC for compressed air/gas lines.

I'm glad you got to this before I did. This guy is becoming a RCStocker in the making. Nothing he hasn't done or doesn't know :rolleyes: yet usually provides incorrect and in this case dangerous information. :headshake
 

zkling

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Yardsticks work terrible for removing and replacing the stupid little door over the pilot access... :p

Well you do need the entire tool kit. It also contains a stretched out coat hanger. With a proprietary bend, specific to each model of water heater for removing the door. :lol_hitti
 
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