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finally getting a bridgeport.. what should we get for accessories?

Cryptic1911

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We put a deposit on a bridgeport series 1 yesterday.. I posted it in our build thread, but figured I would post it here and ask a few questions.

I ordered some stuff for it last night, but what do you guys think is a good set of accessories? We are starting from scratch, so we'll have to make a list of things to get.

The stuff I ordered was a 25pc r8 collet set, a 20 piece 4 flute hss end mill set, a 58 piece hold down kit for the table, a 2hp vfd since it has a 3phase motor, and a set of like 8 parallels just to get us started

I know we will probably want more than just straight end mills, so what do you guys typically use? and what types of hold downs / clamps, and parallels do you guys have?


IMG_3071.JPG


IMG_3072.JPG


IMG_3073.JPG
 
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Kevin C

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My favorites:

1: A DRO.
2: Edge finder.
3: 3M double sided tape for machining thin stock.
4: Acetone to get the tape off the bed.
5: A hook on the head to hang a wrench from is nice for tool changes.
6: A jaw stop to locate parts in the same location in the vice.


Nice buy!
 

justanengineer

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Well to start off you will want a mill to go along with that drill press....jk, I own one too so am allowed to joke.

I say start off simple. Buy what you need as you need it. A good drill chuck (old US Jacobs or Rohm on a 3/4" straight shank), a good vise (Kurt), a handful of end mills (sets ****, you wont use half the sizes and tend to be cheaply made. Buy good tools and they last longer), and the obligatory measuring/layout tools. Strap clamps/holddowns, parallels, and many other things can be easily made or bought as necessary.
 

LutzTD

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first thing you need is a 14" length of 1/4 round bent at 70-80 degrees and a last word indicator, tram that head
 
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Cryptic1911

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My favorites:

1: A DRO.
2: Edge finder.

Nice buy!

a DRO is definately on the list, and I was just watching some vids on youtube, and learned about edge finders.. cool stuff!

I say start off simple. Buy what you need as you need it. A good drill chuck (old US Jacobs or Rohm on a 3/4" straight shank), a good vise (Kurt), a handful of end mills (sets ****, you wont use half the sizes and tend to be cheaply made. Buy good tools and they last longer), and the obligatory measuring/layout tools. Strap clamps/holddowns, parallels, and many other things can be easily made or bought as necessary.

I would buy what I need as I need it, but there isn't really anywhere nearby that I can just go pick something up, and I'm impatient.. so I'd like to have a decent spread of stuff so we don't have to wait for things to come in the mail. The stuff I picked up is cheap, but that was just to have something in hand to play around with when we pick it up. I'll replace what I need with better stuff.

first thing you need is a 14" length of 1/4 round bent at 70-80 degrees and a last word indicator, tram that head

I was actually just learning about that online as well.. saw a video with a spindle square, which was pretty nifty, but like $150. I'll do some research on how to do it the old fashioned way
 

Kevin C

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It's been a few years since I had a mill.... The other thing that goes along with tramming the head is squaring the vice. Basically you mount an indicator on the head and run it along the fixed jaw of the vice. You should be able to square it to under .001. .0007 end to end is decent.
 

waggie

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You're gonna want to dial that mill in before you cut anything. So I recommend getting some measurement tools such as this:
$%28KGrHqN,!lUFEF4J6rB9BRI7KLHzqw~~60_12.JPG


one of these to dial in your vise:
a-dial-indicator.jpg


you'll definitely be needing a good drill chuck. I prefer keyless chuck with R8 body. No need to spend a boat load of money on an albrech unless you're making $100 an hour.

After that, there's millions accessories, you can buy them as you need them depend on what you're cutting.
 

brownfoot

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having all those collets, 22 piece set?
1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4 are mostly what you will use
a boring head with tools and either an R-8 or 3/4 shank will get those odd size holes easily
 

dawgee

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Later on get a good boring head (for bearing holes ) a rotary table. Center drills so drills wont "walk" when you start drilling. Enco is a good place to buy things like this or craigslist or ebay.
 

OccupantRJ

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My favorites:

1: A DRO.
2: Edge finder.
3: 3M double sided tape for machining thin stock.
4: Acetone to get the tape off the bed.
5: A hook on the head to hang a wrench from is nice for tool changes.
6: A jaw stop to locate parts in the same location in the vice.


Nice buy!

On my work Bridgeport, I keep a combination wrench that has a 3/4 box, with an 11/16 open end, right on the jackbolt for the head tilt. Built in holder. The 3/4 fits the drawbar, and the 11/16 fits the table stops.
 

brianpgriset

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Pneumatic drawbar kits are awesome if you're changing tools a lot. If you don't want to spend the dough you'll need a drawbar hammer.
 

larry_g

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Your going to need a Machinerys Handbook. Get an older version that was printed when manual mills were the best. The latest ones are directed a lot more toward cnc stuff. A mill needs a set of measuring tools that you can use to prove that what you have made is to print and on size. That tramming guage what Waggie listed not necessary. A DTI will do the same thing and a lot more for a lot less money. I've never seen one in a professional shop.

lg
no neat sig line
 

Kevin C

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On my work Bridgeport, I keep a combination wrench that has a 3/4 box, with an 11/16 open end, right on the jackbolt for the head tilt. Built in holder. The 3/4 fits the drawbar, and the 11/16 fits the table stops.

I forgot about that... Its been six years since I turned any handles. As I'm getting my new shop / garage finished I'm hoping to get a similar setup.
 

Milton Shaw

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A insert bit face mill is something I use a lot for surfacing larger flat surfaces. Edge and center finders and a circular center finder for finding center of round stock will help you in locating holes in round stock. A "T" slot cleaner to get the cuttings out of the table slots helps. I have an import drill/mill wish I had a true Bridgeport. Story about the clone Bridgeports. Under the vertical scale on the feed is a number punched in the housing. That number is the diameter of the quill that is fitted to the bored and honed housing. If you ever damaged the quill you would give Bridgeport that number and they would grind and finish a quill that was an exact factory fit for your machine. The imports mfg saw that number and punched the same number in each machine they made as they didn't know that that number was specific to each mill. So much for re-engineering the clone mills. Extra set of belts in case you ever burn one out and need it for the weekend to finish something.
 

Kevin54

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I've ran Bridgeports all my life. You are limited with the four flute end mills. Next time you order any endmills, order 2 flutes. A two flute won't load up like a four flute will. Also chances are that the four flutes that you ordered aren't center cuts. That means you will have to drill a hole before plunging down into a piece. With a two flute you can plunge cut.

You need to have a set of angle plates, 45 degrees, and a 30-60 degree. They will come in a set.

You will need a Sine Bar, normally a 5" along with some gage blocks. This will let you set up at any angle you need.

If your Bridgeport isn't a CNC, then you need a Rotary Table, preferably a 12" rotary table. This will let you cut a radius on parts.

Table bolts, clamps, nuts, and serrated blocks. These normally come in a sett and you can get them for around $50.

Drill chucks with a 1/2" shank. Get two sizes of drill chucks with the arbors that have a Jacobs Taper that fit the chuck and not screw in arbors. You want one chuck that goes from 0-1/4" and another that goes from 1/4"-3/8" or 1/2". By having a 1/2" shank, you will be using collets quite a bit. The 1/2" is the most common collet you will use, so with the drill chucks on a 1/2" collet it saves from backing things clear out then putting them in. Just a couple of turns of the arbor and a tap and you can swap from a chuck to an endmill.

When you get some extra coin pick up a few carbide endmills. They will get you through steel that has hard spots. But you have to remember that carbide is very brittle and can be broke easier than a standard endmill. But having some various sizes have taken out many broken taps for me.

You need an indicator. This will be to tram in the head of your mill. If you get one, get one that has a 0-.030-0 sweep to it.

You will need a set of parallel bars. They come in a set and normally go from 3/8" in height to 1 1/2" in height. You need these to set parts on in a vise.

You will need a book of Sine tables. You can either download it, purchase one, or it will be in a Machinery's Handbook. You need this to set up a Sine Bar for setting different angles.

Then of course, drill bits and taps along with a chart showing what drill you need for what size of tap you are going to use.

There is more but that is basically some necessities to get you going. When it comes to purchasing some items, keep an eye out for deals. You can pick up a lot on CL, but need to watch whether ones are trying to gouge or not. A good place to get things are Enco and MSC. End mills can be bought for a few bucks vs. spending big dollars. The same with taps. Don't invest in any four flute taps. When you buy a tap, get two flute gun taps or two flute plug taps. These will give you the most chip clearance. Four flute taps have gotten people in a bind because they will break and bind up, especially the smaller taps.

Try NOT to buy taps and endmills online through a private party. Chances are that they are dull and will just get you into trouble. They can be bought new through different companies cheap. If you watch how you use them a cheap $5 endmill will last just as long as a higher brand $50 endmill.

You also will need an edge finder. A General edge finder will suffice. But when you get one buy two. One is a 3/8" diameter shank with a .200 tip. The other is a 1/2" shank with a 1/2" tip. These are needed to find the exact edge of your part.

As you become more and more advanced on using the mill, you'll find out what else you will need. If you want, I can send you some photos of what I have in my box and it will give you some kind of idea. Or send me a PM and I can walk you through anything you need to know, either by PM or by Cell.

OccupantRJ is a machinist that will keep your hands from getting wrapped up in the spindle. I have a lot of respect for his word.

One thing you may want to know though.....Once you start machining, it is VERY addictive. I know that you have a ride in the garage, so you are going to be buying some aluminum to dress it up. Search out your local scrap yard and start picking up some square or rectangle stock. There are a lot of places that you can get materials online. Shop wisely. Either the prices are high with great shipping, or the prices are great and you'll get raped on shipping. So do some searches, or post on here what you are looking for. Someone will be sure to let you know where they get their material from.

And be sure you check the Fabrication Forum down below as there are quite a few great machinist, toolmakers, or general garage machinist that will be more than willing to help.
 
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Cryptic1911

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having all those collets, 22 piece set?
1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4 are mostly what you will use
a boring head with tools and either an R-8 or 3/4 shank will get those odd size holes easily

Yeah I know, it was one of those things where the price wasn't much more from 7 to a 13 piece to a 25 piece, so I said screw it. I don't know what we'll end up with so might as well have them all. I couldn't beat the price :lol:

Pneumatic drawbar kits are awesome if you're changing tools a lot. If you don't want to spend the dough you'll need a drawbar hammer.

I was looking at those online, I saw a cheap direct bolt on air operated one for like $130 and it looked pretty interesting

Your going to need a Machinerys Handbook. Get an older version that was printed when manual mills were the best. The latest ones are directed a lot more toward cnc stuff. A mill needs a set of measuring tools that you can use to prove that what you have made is to print and on size. That tramming guage what Waggie listed not necessary. A DTI will do the same thing and a lot more for a lot less money. I've never seen one in a professional shop.

I'll find a copy of that book online and print it out. thanks. The tramming gauge is a cheater way to do it, and makes it quicker I'd say, but I'll still have to get a dti or last word indicator to find the centers of holes anyways, so I should probably just learn how to do it the old fashioned way

A insert bit face mill is something I use a lot for surfacing larger flat surfaces. Edge and center finders and a circular center finder for finding center of round stock will help you in locating holes in round stock. A "T" slot cleaner to get the cuttings out of the table slots helps.

edge finders are one thing that I forgot to grab on my order


You're gonna want to dial that mill in before you cut anything. So I recommend getting some measurement tools such as this: (snipped)

you'll definitely be needing a good drill chuck. I prefer keyless chuck with R8 body. No need to spend a boat load of money on an albrech unless you're making $100 an hour.

still up in the air about the spindle square or to do it the old way, but I did look at those that you posted already. As for a chuck, he said he'd leave the nice keyless chuck that was in it. I forgot to ask what the brand was, but I'm sure it was something decent seeing how nice everything in the shop was
 

Kevin C

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As long as your the only one on the machine, IMHO the simple tools for tramming are probably OK. The last Bridgeport I used was shared by all the engineers in the department.

One guy would put the vice back on and not square it back up. It was considered bad shop etiquette to bolt it down out of square. Esp if I had just trued up to .0004 the day before...

The one thing that really killed me was he would use the mill as a press! Every freaking time he would knock the head out. I could have used either a new coworker or a faster tool to get the head back into alignment.

I cant wait to get my own mill. :)
 
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fatboy99

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This guy has a ton of videos on all kinds of machining processes and tooling well worth watching.

 

Kevin54

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Yeah I know, it was one of those things where the price wasn't much more from 7 to a 13 piece to a 25 piece, so I said screw it. I don't know what we'll end up with so might as well have them all. I couldn't beat the price :lol:



I was looking at those online, I saw a cheap direct bolt on air operated one for like $130 and it looked pretty interesting



I'll find a copy of that book online and print it out. thanks. The tramming gauge is a cheater way to do it, and makes it quicker I'd say, but I'll still have to get a dti or last word indicator to find the centers of holes anyways, so I should probably just learn how to do it the old fashioned way



edge finders are one thing that I forgot to grab on my order




still up in the air about the spindle square or to do it the old way, but I did look at those that you posted already. As for a chuck, he said he'd leave the nice keyless chuck that was in it. I forgot to ask what the brand was, but I'm sure it was something decent seeing how nice everything in the shop was

You won't find a copy of the Machinery's handbook online unless you buy it. And if you are going to have to do that, you may as well find a used book from someone cheaper, or buy the book new. The Machinery's Handbook I have is the 22nd Edition and I bought it in 1985. The newest one is the 29th Edition. In the MSC catalog, the 29th Edition is $77.99 for the Toolbox Edition or $92.99 for the Large Print Edition. With a CD-Rom it kicks the price up to $134.99 for the Toolbox Edition and $144.99 for the large Print Edition.. A CD-Rom alone is $77.99.

Best bet is to look on CL and find one around the 27th Edition and get it for about half price of the new one. One thing to remember though is that the newer it is, the more Metric stuff you will find in there. But for basic machining stuff, you can find almost everything you need from the 20th Edition on up.

One other thing I forgot to mention when it comes to machining and you may already have them in your toolbox is a good set of 0-1 mic's and a set of 6" or 12" dial calipers. Almost a necessity when machining.
 
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Cryptic1911

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I've ran Bridgeports all my life. You are limited with the four flute end mills. Next time you order any endmills, order 2 flutes. A two flute won't load up like a four flute will. Also chances are that the four flutes that you ordered aren't center cuts. That means you will have to drill a hole before plunging down into a piece. With a two flute you can plunge cut.

As you become more and more advanced on using the mill, you'll find out what else you will need. If you want, I can send you some photos of what I have in my box and it will give you some kind of idea. Or send me a PM and I can walk you through anything you need to know, either by PM or by Cell. (snipped most out so it didn't take up a whole page)

thanks a bunch for the info and the offer.. If we get stuck, I may have to pick your brain for some! I see that I have a few more things that I'll have to add to the list of things to get. The stuff about the 2 vs 4 flute endmills is interesting, wouldn't have even given that any thought since I had no clue about the plunge cuts and loading up

This guy has a ton of videos on all kinds of machining processes and tooling well worth watching.


Ah, yes! tubalcain.. I watched a bunch of his videos last night!

You won't find a copy of the Machinery's handbook online unless you buy it.

One other thing I forgot to mention when it comes to machining and you may already have them in your toolbox is a good set of 0-1 mic's and a set of 6" or 12" dial calipers. Almost a necessity when machining.

gotta pick those up too! we're starting from scratch for the most part

never underestimate the power of google :beer: 26th edition pdf files
http://www.brightonk12.com/webpages/mjourden/general.cfm?subpage=1305723

Cryptic, if you print out the Machinerys Handbook, you better have a lot of paper, a lot of ink, and a lot of time.......

I didn't realize how many pages it was, but I could spit out a copy at work in 30-40 mins
 

laser3kw

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a 2hp vfd since it has a 3phase motor
I think the series 1 had a 1-1/2hp motor. If you run the VFD on single phase, the VFD has to create the third phase, which means you lose 1/3 of the VFD rated capacity.The 2 hp VFD will work but you may not be able to do heavy work. You should have a 3 hp VFD to be on the "safe" side (power wise).
 
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Cryptic1911

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Its actually a 1hp motor. I was figuring they were more, but the guy had a dozen bridgeports in the shop with the same 3 phase motors
 

LJZ

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1911"
Couple things I would want in your shoes.
- First off I would give that old B port Vice to some homeless person for scrap. Get a Kurt or at the very least a knockoff. trust me.
- You must have one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006J3XKO/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Great thing about these is lots of reach and can be used without having to remove what is in the spindle. Also all you need to true up the head.
- Also to go along is a good indicator. Don't cheap out on this. Recommend an Interapid. A big dial .0005 resolution Horizontal type. It has a good range to witch is great on rough - automotive work.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006J3XKO/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Almost threw up when I saw how much these cost now.:eyecrazy:

Might I recommend the all mighty Craigslist. Save a ton to find tooling and accessories. Tons that can be talked about but lets stop there for now.
The mill looks to be in decent shape. Best thing ever to have in the shop.
Congrats and if I can be of some help just give a shout.
Luke
 

justanengineer

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I think the series 1 had a 1-1/2hp motor. If you run the VFD on single phase, the VFD has to create the third phase, which means you lose 1/3 of the VFD rated capacity.The 2 hp VFD will work but you may not be able to do heavy work. You should have a 3 hp VFD to be on the "safe" side (power wise).

You need to be more specific in your caution as its not correct for all VFDs. The factory power rating should be correct if the VFD is wired according to the factory diagram. Meaning, if the VFD is designed for single phase input, 3 phase out, there is no derate necessary. The OP could use a 1 hp VFD as myself and many (most?) others do and get the full 1 hp. OTOH, if the VFD is 3 phase in, 3 out, and you feed it single phase in...you probably will need to derate.
 

ny1

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Congratulations on the BP. Some Barnes&Noble stores stock the large print addition of the Machinery's Handbook.
 
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Cryptic1911

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You are limited with the four flute end mills. Next time you order any endmills, order 2 flutes. A two flute won't load up like a four flute will. Also chances are that the four flutes that you ordered aren't center cuts. That means you will have to drill a hole before plunging down into a piece. With a two flute you can plunge cut

I went and re-checked the order that I had for the endmills, and it's actually a 2 and 4 flute set, so I have one of each of the sizes in 2 and 4 flute :rocker:

1911"
Couple things I would want in your shoes.
- First off I would give that old B port Vice to some homeless person for scrap. Get a Kurt or at the very least a knockoff. trust me.
- You must have one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006J3XKO/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Great thing about these is lots of reach and can be used without having to remove what is in the spindle. Also all you need to true up the head.
- Also to go along is a good indicator. Don't cheap out on this. Recommend an Interapid. A big dial .0005 resolution Horizontal type. It has a good range to witch is great on rough - automotive work.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006J3XKO/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Almost threw up when I saw how much these cost now.:eyecrazy:

Might I recommend the all mighty Craigslist. Save a ton to find tooling and accessories. Tons that can be talked about but lets stop there for now.
The mill looks to be in decent shape. Best thing ever to have in the shop.
Congrats and if I can be of some help just give a shout.
Luke

I think we'll keep the vise that's there for now, and pick up something nicer later once we get used to how everything operates
 

Falcon67

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I think the series 1 had a 1-1/2hp motor. If you run the VFD on single phase, the VFD has to create the third phase, which means you lose 1/3 of the VFD rated capacity.The 2 hp VFD will work but you may not be able to do heavy work. You should have a 3 hp VFD to be on the "safe" side (power wise).

This is not so. Single phase-3 phase VFDs will supply full rated output. The VFD must control the motor directly and does not feed the machine like an outlet. Machine controls are then wired to the VFD and the VFD programmed as required to respond to the contact closures. Reading the programming manual sometimes is enough to scare people into a rotary. :lol: It's not that big a deal, really. My mill control box had a gallon zip lock bag full of wires and contactors. Now it has a terminal strip and a cable coming out to the VFD.

Where you might need an add-on for a VFD would be maybe a braking resistor. Depends on how much mass you might be trying to stop in .5 seconds when you hit the E-stop. I really like my VFD and if I ever get to upgrade to a larger lathe, I'd put a VFD and a 3 phase motor on it as quick as I could afford to.

Hahaha on printing out the Machinery Handbook. Just by a copy 3-4 editions back. They are cheap and easier to use than a PDF, really.
 
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Kevin54

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Cryptic......Sometime you are online without too much to do, order some Wish Books. (catalogs)

www.mscdirect.com
www.reidsupply.com
www.kittstools.com
www.travers.com
www.use-enco.com
www.grizzly.com
www.penntoolco.com

These are the catalogs where you can find some good deals on tooling supplies. I have some others that I will post up later. Don't plan on a catalog from McMaster-Carr though. They are getting harder and harder to get, so most of those go to industries that order from them. The same with Grainger. That's why I didn't list those two.

Once you get a catalog or two and start going through them, a lot of the things you see to buy is way cheaper to make. And like mentioned before, keep an eye out on CL for machinist tools or supplies. Hook up with a local scrapyard for some materials you may need. Steel bars, aluminum bars, and so on. Once you get a big catalog or two in front of you, you'll see some things that you will need later on. The catalogs I posted will get anyone almost anything they need or give you an idea to make.

When you pick the mill up, ask the guy that you bought it from if he has a set of shorter jaws for the vise. You really don't want to start out machining with that tall set of jaws the picture shows. A lot of times, a set of tall jaws will not hold a part firmly. It depends on how they are ground, the type of material, how good the vise is. A shorter set will be a necessity. Don't buy a set of shorter jaws. That would be one thing that you could make from material you buy, and have material left over. But they are a necessity to have. If there is anything that you would need as far as tooling, ask on here or in the Fabrication Forum before you buy it. There are quite a few machinist on this site and someone may have what you need way cheaper or free because of extra stuff in their toolbox.
 

LutzTD

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heres another cheap tool for setup, get two 2" long 5/8 or 3/4 dowels, I forget which size. these fit tight in the t-slot and will automatically square a piece bolted to the table. Put in the dowels as far apart as you can then just push your peice up against. You can indicate it in as well, Im partial to the last word indicators but indicals are OK too.
 

Kevin54

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Urbana, Ohio
heres another cheap tool for setup, get two 2" long 5/8 or 3/4 dowels, I forget which size. these fit tight in the t-slot and will automatically square a piece bolted to the table. Put in the dowels as far apart as you can then just push your peice up against. You can indicate it in as well, Im partial to the last word indicators but indicals are OK too.

Those would be 5/8" dowels
 

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
heres another cheap tool for setup, get two 2" long 5/8 or 3/4 dowels, I forget which size. these fit tight in the t-slot and will automatically square a piece bolted to the table. Put in the dowels as far apart as you can then just push your peice up against. You can indicate it in as well, Im partial to the last word indicators but indicals are OK too.

Those would be 5/8" dowels
 
OP
C

Cryptic1911

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2008
Messages
2,884
Location
Willimantic, CT
it was $1500, but the price varies on your location, and obviously the condition. This one is in excellent shape, minus a cut on one side of the table. The ways were nice, not a lot of slop like most we looked at, it was clean, and the motor / spindle sounded nice. We looked at a few roaches, that's for sure. The worst one was in a transmission shop, and the floor was so greasy that your feet would slide apart when you were standing still. That mill didn't look much better than the floor
 
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