Finally Getting to Build A Garage

[Jeepster04]

Building My 30x64' Garage!

I've watched people post threads of their garage builds for years and didnt think the day would come that I would be making a thread of my own. Finally getting the chance to build a garage of my own. While I wouldnt call it my 'dream garage,' it will be nice to have a nice garage at last.

Garage wont be anything special. 30x64' with a cantilevered 8' overhang along the back 64' side. Cost isnt much more and it'll be nice to store implements, lawn mowers, tractor, etc under. Half of the garage will be a 'barn' for whatever will need to go in there someday. The garage side will be 30x34'. Typical pole barn design with truss.

Guy came and dozed a level spot yesterday. Was hoping it would look more 'natural' but that far away corner looks pretty high.. o well... Gonna be a slow build, hoping to have it under roof and some concrete down by winter but we'll see... Sides will have to wait. Will be doing all the work myself with help from family, etc. Hopefully the only thing Ill have to pay for labor wise is the dozer work.



Bought a post hole digger







Guy was in and out in 8 hours, not bad. Put me a 20' pipe in also, which wasnt long enough at all. Ill have to get another 20' at some point.. Big mistake not having another there for him to put in while he was there, probably wont have another dozer on site for years.

 

[JRodsGarage]

Congrats man! Cant wait to see it go up

 

[s123]

Will eagerly follow your build. Seems like you have a lot of space to use for your project!

 

[Blackhawks63]

So where are you located, or are we to guess? Good luck with the build.

Sent from my QTAQZ3 using Tapatalk

 

[Jeepster04]

Gotta guess! Im in Eastern Ky

Got some work done. Local lumber yard dropped off the posts and lumber last week. Driver was pretty cool, sent me a picture asking if where he was about to dump the lumber was a good spot. I like service like that. Even sent a picture showing that he locked my gate.





First day we only got the batten boards up and the corner posts in. Takes awhile to get things good and square. After getting the corner posts in it seems to all measure out perfect.













We put 18 posts in the ground with bagged concrete. Im pretty sore this morning! Gotta order the truss and get those up. Pondering getting someone in to lift the truss up, that would make life A LOT easier. Just dont want to pay anyone to do anything, we'll have to see...

Got 4 posts left to go in but I think Ill wait till the truss are on. They are posts for the garage door and the sliding door on the ends of the building. It would make things tighter getting the truss up with those in place.

 

[Jeepster04]

Ordered the truss, metal for the roof, and screws/trim a couple days ago. Got them to make the truss so that I would have some storage going down the center of the truss. Should be a decent amount of storage since its ~7' high and 12' wide. He priced me truss with a 2x4 lower cord at first but I had him go ahead and make it a 2x6 since I want to store things up there.

Those will be in sometime the week of 26-30th. Hoping Ill get a chance to put the boards around the top of the posts by then and I may check on someone to pick the truss up with some sort of a boom truck. That way Ill be able to get all the truss up in a day and Im really not wanting to man handle those things.

 

[Jeepster04]

Does anyone have any input on closures for the ridge cap? Ive discovered that they are $5 a piece for the vented closures and they come in 3' lengths. So I would need 44 pieces which comes to $220. Most people Ive talked to/read about say they eventually blow out and then rain/snow blows up in there. Really dont want to spend $220 for it to blow away and cause issues.

The closed closure is only $0.95 a piece....

 

[Jeepster04]

Ended up trying to look away and just went with the vented closures. They seem rather useless now that I've seen them and probably wont allow much air flow... O well, most likely $250 wasted on little foam piece.

Set the truss this past saturday. Local contractor just happened to be building a house near by and was able to bring his telehandler and pick the truss up and set them. Worked out pretty good, charged $300 to pick them up and we anchor them. About a month ago I was dead set on being able to set the truss by hand but after seeing them in person theres no way we couldve done it. Maybe if we had a crew of 10 people. 17 40' truss in all.

Put the band boards/beams/whatever you want to call them on Friday by myself. Wasnt too horribly bad. Was able to put blocks on the two end posts then carried the 16' 2x8's up the center post and anchor them. Think Ill put all thread through the band boards. Im putting 2x6 boards between the band boards to anchor the truss to thats at midspan between the posts. Should be pretty stout....

Friday Morning before I started. It was the perfect day for working. Cloudy and 50's pretty much all day







Friday evening










Wont be much more happening before winter. I bought 1/2" styrofoam sheets to put under the roof metal and 1-1/4" styrofoam for the walls. Local guy sells the stuff pretty cheap and I liked that better than the bubble wrap. Put the roof on, some trim, maybe gutters, and call it quits till spring/summer. Maybe piddle around some on warm days in the winter but Im out of money for the season.

 

[Jeepster04]

Got some more work done this past week. Took off work Thursday and Friday to put the purlins on.... By myself... Always thought it would be fun building a garage but this thing is getting the best of me. All 132 purlins were nailed down. Taking off every Friday in October so I can work on it some more. Next is putting down some 1/2" strofoam and hopefully some metal on the roof. Not sure if Im going to be able to get the girts and metal on the sides by winter or not...

Even after nailing the fascia board all the way across the ends of the truss, the truss were still curved. Ran a string along the exterior truss and used a ratchet strap till the truss touched the string...



First row of purlins done..



A lot to go...



Done for the first day...



Funny tid bit.. Weve got an 89 FSJ Jeep that isnt driven much.. Went to start it one day and it didnt want to run. Would idle but hardly and no sound was coming out of the exhaust.....



Packed full of dog food....

 

[Jeepster04]

Feel like Im making a thread and talking to myself....

Anyway... Got a little more work done this friday/sat. Friday was anchor day for me. Ive been thinking how I want to anchor the truss to the band boards (as I call them) since, well, I wanted to build a pole barn.

Decided on 1/2" all thread rod through the band boards and a 3/8" lag through the truss into the posts. After I put the first all thread rod in I remembered the exterior metal will go over the band boards... And the all thread rod would be sticking out of the band board. Luckily I got a 1' over hang on the truss so I THINK the overhang will drop down enough to cover up the all thread. With this, I had to put the all thread higher in the band boards than I wouldve liked. I feel like the all thread will hold most of the down force (weve gotten 2' snows before) and it will be stronger the lower it is in the band board.. O well, what do you do? Ive got those 6" blocks under the band boards since I was working alone when I put the band boards up. I may leave them and add some more bigger screws to help with downforce.... idk... Ill worry about that when its giving a 2' snow...

The 3"x3/8" lag bolts 'should' help with upforce from wind. I put them in just the truss at the posts on the 1' overhang and in all of the truss on the 8' overhang. A 2x6 was cut and placed vertically to anchor the truss to at midspan between the posts... Someday I may put 'hurricane clips' at the truss.. Ill worry about that during high wind events.

On to the photos... Normally I dont even read what people type, I just look at pictures... Unless its Bob Heine, then I read it all. Man is amazing..















You may have noticed that the places where the band boards overlapped on a post I was all over the place with my all thread..... At first it made the most sense to put the all thread in the band board that would be taking the load from the truss at the post.. So I was rolling with that. Then in one place I hit a daggum nail. Absolutely no idea WHY a nail wouldve been at that location but it ruined my spade bit and I refused to go buy another. Had 7 posts left to drill after that and it was BRUTAL getting that spade bit through those posts. So in that post I put the all thread right between the two band boards. Not very strong but the situation made me...


Believe I spoke of the situation earlier thats shown in the photo below.. Before I starting putting the band boards up I thought long and hard about what to do here. If I wouldve mounted the band boards down on this corner post then I woulved had to cut ALL of the tops of the posts off along the 64' side that has the 1' overhang... Also, the ceiling height in the garage wouldve most likely dropped to 11', which I didnt want at all. Ive been shooting for 12' for a 2 post lift I want someday... Given that, I put the bottom of the band boards right at the top of the post. I then cut some of another post off and placed it between the band boards and put the all thread through that. Ive got a 2x6 that splices the two posts, which is weak for uplift. Not sure what to do about this yet but Ill have to figure something out.



I went with the 1/2" galvanized all thread b/c of its cost. A 3' stick was only $4, the nuts and washers weren't much either.

Saturday we only had 4-5 hours to work on it. We got 6 pieces of metal up with the insulation under it. It would go a good bit quicker if I wasnt using the 1/2" insulation but I think its a good idea... We got a good routine down so I think the roofing will go quick now. Hoping two days will finish the roof. We put the screws next to every ridge but spaced them 4' vertically. At the top and bottom we put them every 2 feet to help with strength along the edge. Putting the screws every 2' seemed a little over board. Some quick searching showed 2-5' vertically is normal... So we with with 4' which is every other purlin. Plan is to go ahead and buy everything for the sides and work on it as I can through the winter...

 

[Karl's Garage]

Keep up the good work!

 

[Woody610nb]

I guess the dogs been going hungry with mice stealing all his food. Nice work on the building.

 

[Cypherian]

Nice work so far ,

I feel your pain on the hitting the nail with the spade bit lol been there done that.

Cypher

 

[Jeepster04]

Speaking of hitting a nail, I hit a nail putting a screw in for the metal... I shouldve stopped and drilled the nail out but I hit that thing right in the middle of the nail. I moved the screw over the width of the nail and put it in. Absolutely hate having a hole in my brand new roof but idk how to get around that... Guess Ill have to go and back the screw out and put some sealant under it. The rubber washer on the screw covered half of the other hole...

I tried to put all of the nails on the edge of the purlins so I can put the screws for the metal in the center of the purlins.

 

[Pluribus]

...and yet another place that rodents find to hoard food and nest. Welcome to rural living! I am always finding evidence of those little critters around my place. I'd get some feral cats if the coyotes wouldn't wipe them out almost immediately.

Congrats on the progress!

 

[Jeepster04]

Guess slow progress is still progress.. Got 8 more sheets put up by myself. Made a small ramp out of 2x4's to slide the sheets up. Able to pull them on up from the top after that. The panels really did not want to stay square with the building. When we put the first sheet up we aligned it with the edge of the truss then measured at the top and bottom of the metal measuring across the entire length of the building. The sheet was 1/4" off which I figured would be ok. We should be able to make up a 1/4".... Evidently not... After putting down the first 6 sheets the metal had worked its way down 3/4"... I started putting each panel 1/8" higher than the previous panel and was only maintaining the extra 3/4" overhang at the bottom. So I started moving each panel up 1/4" and trying to push the bottom of the metal over and pull the top back towards the metal that was already on the roof. This got the metal back in square and brought the overhang back where we originally started... Ill have to keep a close eye on the remaining 8 sheets when we put them down since I really want that edge to be aligned perfectly and NOT have to cut it. 22 sheets is 66', which is what the building is with the 1' overhangs...



Gonna take a couple days off work with my father and hopefully get the roof knocked out sometime in the near future... Originally planned on stopping after the roof was on and waiting till spring but I think Im going to push on and start putting the walls on...

Ive debated about what to do about the ground being unlevel. Its right at 1.5' from the diagonal corners. Think Ill just put the treated 2x6 board level along the bottom and add boards under it to close the gap. Then someday Ill backfill with dirt to hide the boards. Possibly putting some sort of membrane on the boards so they are not in direct contact with the dirt.. idk..

 

[Jeepster04]

Ive started pondering how Im going to run water to/in the building. Ultimately Im wanting hot water inside the building and one hydrant outside of the building.

The building will have a fisher wood stove in it but Im not going to be heating the building all winter. Only when Im using it or think Ill be using it. That brings up the issue of how do you keep water from freezing in the pipes.

What I think Ill do is build a box incorporated into a work bench that I'm planning on building but the location is still up for debate. May just put the box in the front corner on the hill side so I can mount my water hose reel to the wall and easily pull the water hose outside. Ill put the water heater in the insulated box and keep all of the water lines in said box. May mount a sink either right on top of the box or near the box and run the water lines from the box to the sink. The water heater 'should' put off enough heat to keep the lines coming out of the ground into the box from freezing. Ill also have frost free valves sticking out of the box for water in the garage.

Anyone ever done something similar to this?

 

[seanc_mt]

Not wanting to criticize or anything just wondering... did you have those trusses engineered to have the load point at where you built that wall? or are you planning on putting some sonotubes in with posts at the end of the overhang.

As for the water dilemma i would put a drain on the outside of the building i have them and it takes a 7 foot rod down into the ground and the valve is surrounded by gravel so the building can drain. the last thing you want is to come in to a flooded and frozen garage in the dead of winter...

 

[davidhansen]

This is HUGE! It looks good and I bet you're getting excited to see the finished product.

For the water problem, could you just turn the water on at the main water supply line to the garage when you want to use it, and then turn it off when you're done? This would require installing the valve in an easy to reach place though so you aren't digging through snow or mud for it. The only thing I don't know is if that would require blowing out the line every time to prevent the pipes from freezing and bursting.

 

[Whitey1]

Looking good.

 

[Jeepster04]

Not wanting to criticize or anything just wondering... did you have those trusses engineered to have the load point at where you built that wall? or are you planning on putting some sonotubes in with posts at the end of the overhang.

As for the water dilemma i would put a drain on the outside of the building i have them and it takes a 7 foot rod down into the ground and the valve is surrounded by gravel so the building can drain. the last thing you want is to come in to a flooded and frozen garage in the dead of winter...

Yes sir, I specifically said I wanted the supports at 30' with an 8' cantilevered overhang. If you check out the diagonals you'll see that two come together right over the post. The top and lower cord is also 2x6's, if it didnt have the cantilever they wouldve been 2x4's.

This is HUGE! It looks good and I bet you're getting excited to see the finished product.

For the water problem, could you just turn the water on at the main water supply line to the garage when you want to use it, and then turn it off when you're done? This would require installing the valve in an easy to reach place though so you aren't digging through snow or mud for it. The only thing I don't know is if that would require blowing out the line every time to prevent the pipes from freezing and bursting.

Yeah, the draining would be an issue and I wouldnt want to drain the water heater that often. Ill probably be using the garage fairly often too.

It is a huge building. Ive never taken on something like this and honestly didnt know was I was getting into. Its even harder when you live ~30min away and work an hour away from where Im building...

 

[oldironfarmer]

Just saw your thread. Congratulations on a great project!

I have some comments, don't take them as criticism, just my viewpoint.

1 My metal vendor recommends screws in every purlin, three per sheet on intermediate purlins and six per sheet on top and bottom purlins. A lot of screws but I do it.

2 Since the dozer guy did not get the pad level you likely will have to bring in fill. Your bottom purlin should be set level. Plan on filling inside and outside the wall up to the bottom of your bottom purlin. You can then use that purlin as a form for concrete if you like.

3 As you found out it is really hard to adjust the sheets as you install them. If the building is square, rattle the sheet to get it seated on the previous sheet then only adjust up or down to account for errors. Not seating the sheets leaves gaps you really don't want for blowing rain.

4 Typically we only nail banding to posts and trusses to posts using large ring shank nails. I'm not too sure the all thread is doing a lot for you. A few large nails at each joint would make me feel better. (I feel pretty good anyway)

5 Water - I suggest you consider building your insulated box 8'x8' with a door and sink inside and maybe set up for a future toilet and plan on keeping it heated to 40 degrees. Really nice to have a place to store items you don't like to have freeze, including you when you can't get the building warm for short work periods.

6 Good idea to put wall sheeting on. They provide lot's of shear support during periods of high winds. Otherwise you need some diagonal support to avoid winds wiggling and loosening your posts, both top and bottom.

Keep going and I'm going to keep watching! Please don't be offended by my comments.

 

[Jeepster04]

No offense taken! Criticism is good, Ive never built a pole barn.

1) When I was deciding whether or not to put screws in every purlin I figured I can always go back and put the screws in the purlins I skipped before. My purlins are spaced every 2' so it would be easy to measure where the purlin is. If I have screws left over Ill use whats left.

2) I've been pondering just having fill dirt brought in. I've also just thought about having a step down in the metal on the exterior. The part with the gravel is level since it was mostly cut. The dirt section is where it starts going downhill since it was mostly fill and the dozer guy was running out of dirt to cut. That section will be a barn for horses, so it doesnt need to be level. Im still undecided what to do there. Personally I dont want to pay someone to place the dirt and my tractor doesnt have a front end loader. Thats the hold up with having fill dirt brought in.

3) That metal... It seems to be seating well so Im not too worried about that. The laps also lap from west to east, which is good. Hopefully rain rarely blows from east to west... We shall see..

4) I've got several nails and screws in the banding (is that the proper term?). The all-thread is there just to help with shear and to hold the boards against the posts so they dont 'peel' off allowing the nails and screws to pull out. Ive talked to several people and most say all they do is nail. Just makes me feel better having the all thread and lag bolts in addition to the nails/screws. I did not use large ring shank nails though. Just 3" framing nails and 3" torx head screws.

5) I've thought about just building a room like you mentioned. Hate to give up that floor space! But maybe I can put that room in the barn side so it can be used for storage of... whatever the fiance wants to store for her horses...... She wants storage rooms in there anyway so I suppose I could just insulate one of them. Then I could have frost free valves sticking out into the garage. Ill be putting a partition wall right down the middle of the building to separate the garage from the barn.

6) $$$$ :/. Think Ill try to incorporate diagonals within the girts... Cant afford sheeting but I agree it would be the best.

 

[krcoomer]

Just reading your thread. Saw several things I may be able to comment on. Where you have to cover up a pecker track from a misplaced screw, don't use silicone. Get a urethane sealant like Quad or Geocel. I really like Sonolastic. It costs more, but it is a clean it, put it up there and forget about it kind of sealant. You can order in colors to match your siding and it is well worth it. Silicone will leave it's mark and you will never be able to get anything else to stick when the sun bakes it off.

Early on you mentioned blocking at the ridge. I worked on a building at my local hardware store a few years ago where the insulation had dropped into a box gutter on the back. It was wicking moisture into the building and dropping on the part of the hardware store with the post office. We priced the plugs to fit into the bottoms and were about to order when I saw a hex shaped pool noodle on the floor. Cut about a 3" plug of that, split it in half and had two of them. Whole noodle cost about $2. Set a bed of Geocel, pushed it in and then buttered the outside edge with Geocel. If you are ever over this way, I can take you and show you how it looks now.

 

[Jeepster04]

Looks like youre from louisville? Cool to see someone thats somewhat local. Im about 2.5hrs east of you. Ill look into the geocel, never heard of it. Amazingly I didnt hit another nail when screwing down the metal. Figured since I hit one on like the 3rd piece of metal we put down it would happen more frequently. The metal on the other half of the roof went very well. Everything stayed square and both ends are perfect. Not sure what happened the first go around..

Got a little more work done on the building. All of the metal and trim is ordered to finish the metal work.. That one hurt the wallet..... I decided to order the metal 6" longer to make up for the unlevel pad and also bought another round of treated 2x6's.. If I could only go back to the day the dozer guy was leveling it off.... I knew it was going to be off a few inches but not this much.. Makes me sick and I try not to think about it.. Anyway, not sure how its going to look but the wainscoting will be 6" long for the last 30' of the building and 1' longer along the far end of the building where the sliding door is. If it looks like **** I can always take it off and cut it off. We will be back filling when we dig a basement for a house someday. That way it will be free dirt, kinda....

ANYWAY. Most of the girts are on and I only used uncoated nails when nailing the girts into the treated posts. While doing it I was thinking that the wood will always be dry, and it 'shoud', but now Im back peddling so Im going to go back and put screws in all of the girts.... She should be stout.. I THINK the posts are not treated using the new method (ACQ?) but they are treated using arsenic (CCA). They are called agricultural posts and had warnings on them stating that they contained arsenic... I always made sure to eat lunch after handling them....

Ordered a 12'x12' frame for the sliding door along with the track that goes along the bottom and two of the latches for the bottom. Got the posts set for the sliding door and the garage door. I realize that I could just building a 12x12 sliding door but I like having the frame.. I think...

 

[fergus]

Looking good man. I hate rodents for exactly that kind of thing with the muffler. Of all the nasty places to make a nest...a sooty muffler! I like the overhang on the building - I'm thinking of adding a lean-to on my shop for firewood and tractor parking.

 

[-Brent-]

Coming along nicely. I like the overhang on the left side. That will be nice to have but, man, I'd be second guessing myself before I put those poles in since a larger shop space is always preferred.

It looks like a great location. I always miss that lush green landscape when fellas post up pics.

 

[Jeepster04]

When I was figuring out what size building to build cost decided most things for me. After deciding on the size we could easily afford I looked into the cost difference in building a lean-to after the building was done and just doing what I've done. The cost difference between the two was negligible and I figured this would work out best since it doesnt have posts. It will be a good place to store implements for the tractor, firewood, lawn mower, etc. It seems like the cost is already there for moving the posts out and having a 40' span but that would mean more metal, more gravel, and more concrete. And even then I would still want to have the overhang... Just cant have it all. Ill be able to easily park 3 wide and have plenty of room to spare.

 

[Jeepster04]

Making some more headway on the garage. Most of the metal is done but its going to take alittle longer to finish the metal on the far end. Since Ive never done a sliding door, Im unsure where to place the roller track that goes along the top. Im going to go ahead and build the sliding door and hang it before trying to put the metal up.

I also stopped and checked out a sliding door at someones building. Personally I had never really paid attention to a sliding door and while theyre simple, I need to see it in person...



Took me most of a cold winters day to get this far with the metal..... ***** working alone and never doing this before sorta slows you down...



Had help the next day and we easily finished a side. Takes a bit to measure and cut around those windows





I didnt get a chance to add the metal on the end of the overhang. It looks pretty odd right now when the garage door being off centered with the peak. Im hoping that once all of the end metal and trim is on it will look ok... If not... Well, Ill have an odd looking building...





Something I had been wondering about, and it answered my question on its own, wont the ridge cap sweat since it doesnt have an insulation under it? Well, it does.. Not sure if this will be an issue or not. The photo doesnt show it very well but there is water on the underside of the ridge cap. Maybe once the building is enclosed it will stop.



Fiance got me a nifty gate holder to keep the gate in place when its open. It take some of the weight off the post when the gate is open also. Think Im going to put a pipe in the ground so the rod goes down in the pipe. Fill it up with concrete leaving a nice lip so it holds water and freezes.... Guess Ill drill some drain holes in it. Either way, the pipe would need a firm base so the rod has something to push down on to hold the weight...



The latch and holder is made by Co-Line. Were pretty happy with them.

 

[Jeepster04]

Makes me a little sick looking back from when we first started. Lots of work has been done!

Made some more progress over the weekend. Weve had unseasonably wild weather lately. A week ago my father and I were up in the end truss cutting the 2x4's that go within the truss that the metal screws. Cant remember if I mentioned it or not, but the very small town truss manufacturer forgot to mention they will quickly add the horizontal 2x4's that the metal screws to IF I ask them to. Anyway.... It was like 30F with heavy winds. We were up on the ladders and I recall saying 'this is crazy, the whole building is shaking!

Fast forward to this past Saturday, it was 60F with some sun, very nice day for working.

While it may seem very simple to most people that have hung a sliding door, I didnt know where to start. Surprisingly I couldnt find much online about hanging one... I suppose b/c its so easy..... If you search for 'sliding door installation' you will get all sorts of nice looking sliding doors that go in a house..

After checking out a sliding door at a local pole barn, the basics were understood. I used a 2x6 header which shouldve been a 2x8. I didnt take into account that you need some board sticking out along the top to screw the metal to. Ill take pictures later so that will make sense. I had bought the 'quick frame' rails that the 2x6' slide in. We took a 2x4 and screwed it across the opening that was at the same height as the bottom of the wainscoting. Set the door on that and screwed it to the posts. I was able to put the rollers in the holes that we drilled in the top 2x6 then slid the track over the rollers. I used a ratchet strap (I was by myself) to pull the track up. Thats when I discovered that the 2x6 that we screwed to the header 2x6 needed to be moved down. That allows you to have something to screw the bottom of the metal to and gives something for the track cover to screw to. So the outer 2x6 hangs down 2" below the header 2x6, if that makes sense. The opening is only 10' so sagging isnt a concern for two 2x6's. I may also tie it all into that truss like Im going to for the 2x6 that spans the 16' opening for the garage door....

You can see how the outer 2x6 hangs down below the header in this photo. The brackets for the track go at the very top of the outer 2x6 and 3" screws goes through the track bracket along with both 2x6's. The track cover is deep enough that it screws to the header and extends all the way out to the end of the brackets. Another reason for needing to move that 2x6 down (or just use a 2x8).



Finished the wainscoting up along the back side. Someday Ill back fill to cover up the step downs. I must admit having all of those step downs looks horrible, but its pretty common if you pay attention to other pole barns when driving around.





And got the 4th window put in. Hoping to finish up the exterior metal this weekend. Its giving 64F!



Here is a picture from the local pole barn I checked out. They used a 2x4 for the board that the track screws to but the track hangs below the 2x4. I dont really like that which is why I went with a 2x6. You can see how you need something to screw the bottom of the metal to and also something to screw the trim for thats over the track...

 

[rusty1]

...just my lousy opinion, but a leanto like that with the roof being so high is virtually useless,...nothing's gonna stop the bad weather from covering anything you put in there. I would've moved that wall out as far as the roof and had a much larger building,...the only added materials would be 2 short end walls to close in that leanto area.

 

[lakeroadster]

Nice barn!

I wouldn't worry about condensation on the ridge cap. It's the nature of the beast.

 

[C_F]

Just found your thread today, your big building is looking really great!

At the start of the thread, I assumed your house was near your garage project, like maybe the white trailer? But a few posts later, you said you live a ways away. So now I'm curious, how many acres are yours? Did you buy a few acres including the older small buildings, with plans of building a home there some day soon?

Anyway, I think you've done a great job so far, looking forward to more progress posts.

 

[cbattles]

Re: Building My 30x64' Garage!

Awesome job so far. As an actual do it YOURSELFer, I totally respect the massive amount of energy that you've invested. Enjoy the result.

Sent from my XT1064 using Tapatalk

 

[James-W]

Looks like you are doing a super good job. Keep the pictures coming.

 

[ddawg16]

I remember when I started my garage......

Wish I had your space......

It's the devil in the details.....you will find out.

 

[Jeepster04]

...just my lousy opinion, but a leanto like that with the roof being so high is virtually useless,...nothing's gonna stop the bad weather from covering anything you put in there. I would've moved that wall out as far as the roof and had a much larger building,...the only added materials would be 2 short end walls to close in that leanto area.

Yeah... Its been in the back of my head now that I have everything in place. I still wouldve wanted an overhang and I just simply couldnt have afforded both. If I wouldve brought the walls out to the edge of the truss it wouldve also meant more concrete on an already tight budget... It wouldve been more than you think... So far the rain has stayed out but we havent gotten any strong storms. The way the building is situated the rain comes in from either end, not along the side. Either way, the metal is going to hang down on the sides a foot or so, so that will take some of the height away. I may drop it on down... Idk yet...

And I wanted the cantilever with no posts.

Just found your thread today, your big building is looking really great!

At the start of the thread, I assumed your house was near your garage project, like maybe the white trailer? But a few posts later, you said you live a ways away. So now I'm curious, how many acres are yours? Did you buy a few acres including the older small buildings, with plans of building a home there some day soon?

Anyway, I think you've done a great job so far, looking forward to more progress posts.

I live 30min from the property and work an hour away. In the winter it would be dark by the time I got there, so no working on it in the evenings. :/... And yes, the plan is to build a house someday.... Its 23 acres, freshly surveyed.

Edit: Just sold that trailer actually. The realtor that had the property listed bought it to use for a rental. My intentions, for maybe a day or so, were to sell my house and live in the trailer. Every time I went in the trailer that dream drifted further away... The trailer just wasn't in good enough shape... Now Im pondering rolling in a smaller yet nicer trailer to live in. It hurts not being able to stay on the property. My parents have a popup camper that Ill certainly be using this summer! It doesn't have a shower but I've always wanted to use an outdoor shower....

And yes, the older barn, small 'chicken house,' and the building full of junk is all ours. Only thing worth anything in the medium sized building was a craftsman ratchet. Ill be taking down the two smaller buildings and saving the wood at some point. My intentions are to bring the barn back to life when I dont have anything else to do... So idk when that will be happening. Im worried its going to fall. Its built with trees and several are not touching the ground anymore... Someday Ill put one of those neat painted quilts on it, always wanted to do that..

Awesome job so far. As an actual do it YOURSELFer, I totally respect the massive amount of energy that you've invested. Enjoy the result.

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It gets a bit overwhelming at times. Sometimes I dread going out there but once I'm there normally I'm feeling good. It'll eventually be done... Maybe...

I remember when I started my garage......

Wish I had your space......

It's the devil in the details.....you will find out.

Yeah, its wild having this much space. My current house sits on less than 1 acre. My parents house where I grew up was 5-6 acres but it was all on a hill, so it still seemed small. When that guy brought that telehandler down there I thought dang, he could drive that thing anywhere, we have all kinds of room!

 

[Fast914]

Jeepster, I just wanted to chime in and congratulate you on what has become a really great building....and to think you have 23 acres as well....just a beautiful setting. Don't worry about how long its taking...when done you will have an incredible sense of accomplishment! Grant

 

[sublime68charger]

Looks good to me you have been making great progress.

though Im not quite sold on the lean as was mentioned but if you have plans for it and that's what you wanted then that is the only opinion that matters.

its your Money spend it how you want!

 

[Homebody]

Nice building and location!
Good thing on the cantilever is you can always enclose it in the future if time and money permit.