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Finally got A/C in the shop.

bubinga

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Jul 26, 2014
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12,744
Location
Bridgeport Ohio. (Across River From Wheeling WV)
Finally got A/C in the shop.
was waiting for help for 2 years,
when "friends" need help, They want it yesterday.
I usually help right away.
when I need help, I get ********,
So I said F it, and did it my self.
I have some heath issues, and bad knees, is why I wanted help,
But I got it all done, Had the unit up on the bench, just had to get the neighbor to help me lift it up on to the tool box on the bench,
Now I just have to close it in, and run an a/c power line over.
I have a temporary power for now (12awg romax)
the Job turned out pretty clean so far.
Got a Pretty large lot of desk tops at a school auction, (lol, $2.00, no one wanted them, there gold) perfect size.
 

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bubinga

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Bridgeport Ohio. (Across River From Wheeling WV)
Oh yeah, Those desk tops are Sweet, I made lots of jigs, and fixtures, a case for the little PA when I was in the band, nice for pry par racks, screw driver racks and the like.
They are nice as can be.
Lots of thin plys, like Baltic birch or something, with a heavy laminate on top.
has Walnut in it too......LOL, you can smell it.
Oh, It's just way too too hot right now. I have to finish sealing it up,
got it 3/4 done. had to quit for the night.
Have to let it run, once it's all sealed off,
Brought it from 90, to 80 while I was down there, Maybe 45 minuets.
I think it's 10,000 BTU IIRC.
here it is 3/4 sealed up.
 

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EarlyBroncoGuy

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I finally got tired of sweating my *** off in my shop and bought the largest wall/window A/C unit Home Depot had in stock (25,000 BTU), cut a hole in the wall, stuck that sucker in there, wired it up (220v), and it brought the temp down 10 degrees over a couple of hours.

It's a 2400 sq ft insulated metal building, so the A/C unit it probably not quite big enough, but it's already a hell of a lot more comfortable in there. We'll see how it does over the long haul.
 

DCarr2

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Dec 12, 2015
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Akron NY
I finally got tired of sweating my *** off in my shop and bought the largest wall/window A/C unit Home Depot had in stock (25,000 BTU), cut a hole in the wall, stuck that sucker in there, wired it up (220v), and it brought the temp down 10 degrees over a couple of hours.

It's a 2400 sq ft insulated metal building, so the A/C unit it probably not quite big enough, but it's already a hell of a lot more comfortable in there. We'll see how it does over the long haul.

pics or it didnt happen

:lol_hitti
 

Fixin'Stuff

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Jun 14, 2016
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HotterNHellHouston
Green with envy! ;) I'm getting very close to pulling the trigger on a mini split. I can't stand to do anything in the garage, even at daybreak. It's just too hot and muggy. Right now at 11 PM it's 79, but the 92% humidity means a "feels like" temp of 90. Makes me rain sweat on whatever I'm trying to work on. :(
 

chruler

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Oct 31, 2014
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1,508
Location
Vermont
AC in the shop is essential! I couldn't do my work without it.

****! After 27 years I finally got central AC in the house and then got divorced the following year! It just ain't fair I tells ya!
 
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bubinga

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Bridgeport Ohio. (Across River From Wheeling WV)
It's in the mid, hi 90's here, You can see it came down to 80 pretty quick.
I mean It's not super cool, but you can work down there now.
Before it was like down there a half hour, and "F$($ this happy ****. "
Its all boarded up now.
Do I need to worry about the little gaps,
I think you can see them, There 1/16" to ~ 1/8" wide I'd say.
If I can get some other **** moved around and my scrap metal outside, (where they won't steal it) and the Baby craftsman Table Saw, on a File cabinet with no motor on it yet, moved out of there.
(it was supposed to go to The X girlfriends garage, now it's in the damn way)
The motor cycle will come inside to finish putting the belt on, and fix the exhaust leak.
 

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PoorOwner

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Curious why it needed to sit on a platform. You had enough wood across the opening to mount it.
 
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bubinga

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Bridgeport Ohio. (Across River From Wheeling WV)
you mean to mount it to the face frame type wood I closed it in with, or the 2X4 across the bottom?
I don't think the "face frame" part alone would be strong enough to support it.
That had one of those tilt in windows, I took the window out.
The bottom 2X4 "sill" was slotted on the ends to set into the vertical part of the frame.
and the Bottom 2X4 "sill" was slotted across the bottom, about an inch forward on the bottom to wedge/ sit on to onto the horizontal part of the frame.
Then I screwed the desk top to the 2X4, and measured my 2X4 for the rear brace.
It too is screwed to the desk top. There is about a foot long base on the 2X4 support not shown, (down in front of the bush)
I could not really see any other way to do it.
 

EarlyBroncoGuy

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Joined
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Messages
931
pics or it didnt happen

:lol_hitti

IMG_00941_zpsmdtrb4om.jpg


IMG_00951_zpsmkjgruuc.jpg


IMG_00971_zpsokk0mggd.jpg
 

pgilmore7

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Feb 12, 2015
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141
Location
Riverview Florida
I have the same roll up door like you have in the pic. Did you do anything to seal it up better or is there even a way to do that? Mine looks like it will be an issue when I try to put A/C in my shop.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

firworks

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Jun 29, 2015
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IL
I've been considering adding a window air conditioner to my garage as well. It's terribad out there lately. Humidity of a million % or more. The second I'm done with what I'm doing out there I don't linger, I flee.

I was thinking there might be some cheapo units at Salvation Army or Goodwill but I haven't checked yet.
 

Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
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18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
you mean to mount it to the face frame type wood I closed it in with, or the 2X4 across the bottom?
I don't think the "face frame" part alone would be strong enough to support it.
That had one of those tilt in windows, I took the window out.
The bottom 2X4 "sill" was slotted on the ends to set into the vertical part of the frame.
and the Bottom 2X4 "sill" was slotted across the bottom, about an inch forward on the bottom to wedge/ sit on to onto the horizontal part of the frame.
Then I screwed the desk top to the 2X4, and measured my 2X4 for the rear brace.
It too is screwed to the desk top. There is about a foot long base on the 2X4 support not shown, (down in front of the bush)
I could not really see any other way to do it.

Easy with a bit of aluminum angle - remove the side curtain channels:

SmallAC1.jpg


SmallAC2.jpg


The other one had removable channels top and bottom, again with a little scrap:

AC_unit.jpg
 

EarlyBroncoGuy

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Aug 15, 2013
Messages
931
I have the same roll up door like you have in the pic. Did you do anything to seal it up better or is there even a way to do that? Mine looks like it will be an issue when I try to put A/C in my shop.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For the gap at the top of the roll and the upper door frame, I'm going to use these:

https://www.menards.com/main/doors-...erstrip-for-roll-up-doors/p-1444433955713.htm

They attach to the door itself and roll up inside it, but extend outward to seal against the header when the door is down. That's the idea, anyway.

The bottom is easy, they already have threshold rubber bulb strips all the way across to seal against the floor.

The sides, where the corrugated shape of the door is in the U shaped side channels, is going to be the most work. There are nylon brush strips that screw to the channels and "seal" against the door, but they are kind of pricey and I don't know how well nylon bristles will seal. I had thought of using those foam rubber panel closure strips that are made for sealing the ends of metal and plastic roofing panels, but haven't been able to find any with the right spacing of the sawtooth shape. I may buy some that are a little larger than what I need and cut, trim, and glue them in place - just not sure how well they will stay in place sliding against the channel and being rolled up in the door.
 
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bubinga

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Jul 26, 2014
Messages
12,744
Location
Bridgeport Ohio. (Across River From Wheeling WV)
Easy with a bit of aluminum angle - remove the side curtain channels:
Yeah, that looks good. This didn't have side curtain's.
I think it's in there good.
If you could see the window, and the wall I have here, I think you would agree This is best as it is.
also I am renting, and it will be easy to return the tilt in window to the opening.
Take me about 10 minuets to take it out and put the window back it.
Good job on yours though.
The way I slotted the 2X4 on the ends, and the bottom for the window frame, gave ne a nice tight fit to the 2X4,
Well anyways, it seemed the best when I was doing it.
and it's in there. Pretty clean job I thought.
Yours is surely cleaner looking.

SmallAC1.jpg


SmallAC2.jpg


The other one had removable channels top and bottom, again with a little scrap:

AC_unit.jpg
 
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