To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Finally got an anvil!

Jr5

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 24, 2022
Messages
147
My buddy was cleaning out his shop and gifted me with this fantastic anvil! It’s one thing I always figured I’d get at some point. I believe it’s 100lbs
 

Attachments

  • FEB53676-7494-40B9-B9E3-A2DFC12637A2.jpeg
    FEB53676-7494-40B9-B9E3-A2DFC12637A2.jpeg
    576 KB · Views: 96
  • 424B00D1-DBAA-4EF3-A98A-EBD1E7EE3FAF.jpeg
    424B00D1-DBAA-4EF3-A98A-EBD1E7EE3FAF.jpeg
    639.4 KB · Views: 96
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Shiftless

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
14,474
Location
East Bay SFO
Free anvil?

You really scored on that! 🍻

You owe your buddy big time for that one. I can’t see any big chips or signs of abuse…just rust.

Is electrolysis, or wire wheel, or Evaporust in its future?

After it’s bare, I suggest boiled linseed oil to retard future rusting.
 
OP
J

Jr5

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 24, 2022
Messages
147
I sure did and I owe him one! I literally picked it up about an hour ago and couldn’t wait to show and tell lol.

I’ll probably evoporust it, I’ve never used that stuff before so this will be a first go-around for me.
You answered my next question; boiled linseed oil. Thanks 👍
 
OP
J

Jr5

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 24, 2022
Messages
147
An anvil that old will be marked in hundredweight.
If it's stamped 100 it will be 112 lbs.
It’s a bit rusty, but it looks like it’s probably marked as such. It sure feels like it’s that weight Lol
 
OP
J

Jr5

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 24, 2022
Messages
147
It’s a cast Vulcan anvil. They were produced in the United States from about 1875 to 1969. So it didn’t use the British hundredweight system.
Thanks for the info, I’ve no idea what I’ve got here 👍
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Shiftless

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
14,474
Location
East Bay SFO
Here is a trick I learned here on GJ.

Put the object in a heavy duty plastic bag and pour in Evaporust. Then tie the bag tightly closed. Then immerse the bag in a bucket of water. That lets you get by with MUCH less Evaporust. With the right amount of Evaporust, the object will be completely covered in it and and water acts as support for the bag. With this method you’ll only need about a gallon.

What you don’t want to do is put the anvil into a shallow tray of Evaporust figuring you can flip it over later and do the other half. That will leave a line that is difficult or impossible to remove.

Another option of course is to grab your angle grinder with a wire brush cup wheel and just go at it. That will mostly ruin the patina that is under the rust, but maybe you don’t care about that. IMHO, Wire wheel is still preferable to media blasting, unless you plan to paint the anvil.

Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress.
 
OP
J

Jr5

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 24, 2022
Messages
147
Here is a trick I learned here on GJ.

Put the object in a heavy duty plastic bag and pour in Evaporust. Then tie the bag tightly closed. Then immerse the bag in a bucket of water. That lets you get by with MUCH less Evaporust. With the right amount of Evaporust, the object will be completely covered in it and and water acts as support for the bag. With this method you’ll only need about a gallon.

What you don’t want to do is put the anvil into a shallow tray of Evaporust figuring you can flip it over later and do the other half. That will leave a line that is difficult or impossible to remove.

Another option of course is to grab your angle grinder with a wire brush cup wheel and just go at it. That will mostly ruin the patina that is under the rust, but maybe you don’t care about that. IMHO, Wire wheel is still preferable to media blasting, unless you plan to paint the anvil.

Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress.
Thanks for the advice! I will definitely do that. I’ve never used that stuff before
 

Shiftless

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
14,474
Location
East Bay SFO
You’re welcome. I’ve been using it for years. I hope nobody reading this thinks they can just paint it on. You have to immerse the object and let it sit for hours. I usually do it overnight. The rust removing chemical action stops when the rust is fully converted so it doesn’t matter if you leave it in too long, unlike using acid where the acid eats away good metal if you leave it in too long.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jr5
OP
J

Jr5

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 24, 2022
Messages
147
You’re welcome. I’ve been using it for years. I hope nobody reading this thinks they can just paint it on. You have to immerse the object and let it sit for hours. I usually do it overnight. The rust removing chemical action stops when the rust is fully converted so it doesn’t matter if you leave it in too long, unlike using acid where the acid eats away good metal if you leave it in too long.
Thanks! I appreciate the advice and will use it that way. I’ll post back after I use it. Might take a little while lol
 

Firebrick43

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
13,989
Location
West central Indiana
Those vulcan anvils are pretty bottom of the barrel stuff. Cast iron makes for a lousy anvils, no bounce and its steel face that is untempered tends to chip the edges. The were sold to farmers that needed and an anvil but didn't use it much.

That being said they are better than a all cast iron anvil like horror fright. And maybe you don't plan on using it much either.

If you really get into blacksmith however I would recommend upgrading sooner than later so it has some value before the edges chip.

I have not keep up on anvil prices since my wife got me a nearly perfect Peter Wright for our first anniversary(20 years ago in july), 1.2.5 hundred weight to boot. They were crazy back then, and I am sure insane now. I would probably just bite the bullet and buy a 50 kg peddinghaus (not a clone)now days. They are really a better anvil anyways than a peter wright and I would possibly argue than a hay budden.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jr5
OP
J

Jr5

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 24, 2022
Messages
147
Those vulcan anvils are pretty bottom of the barrel stuff. Cast iron makes for a lousy anvils, no bounce and its steel face that is untempered tends to chip the edges. The were sold to farmers that needed and an anvil but didn't use it much.

That being said they are better than a all cast iron anvil like horror fright. And maybe you don't plan on using it much either.

If you really get into blacksmith however I would recommend upgrading sooner than later so it has some value before the edges chip.

I have not keep up on anvil prices since my wife got me a nearly perfect Peter Wright for our first anniversary(20 years ago in july), 1.2.5 hundred weight to boot. They were crazy back then, and I am sure insane now. I would probably just bite the bullet and buy a 50 kg peddinghaus (not a clone)now days. They are really a better anvil anyways than a peter wright and I would possibly argue than a hay budden.
I’m just an amateur, I don’t do blacksmithing - just an occasional need to pound something into shape lol. It’s better than the nothing I had previously 👍
 
OP
J

Jr5

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 24, 2022
Messages
147
Thanks- I know nothing about it. Learning curve for me lol
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom