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Finally got started laying my Wolverine floor!

Dave88LX

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Finally finished laying my Wolverine epoxy floor!

I think I must hold the record here for "longest time spent doing prep work for an epoxy floor", ever. :lol: I have had my epoxy sitting here since May I believe. I started prepping in the fall of LAST year. Just been busy with rotations to Iraq, and life in general. Finally getting it down though.

Here are a few pictures from last night. I'd love to type more, but I'm lucky I can even sit upright at this point. I'll type some more later, I am BEAT! In the meanwhile, feel free to ask any questions you have and I'll answer them to the best of my ability.

I'll go over what my process was later on today.

wolverine_delivery.jpg


garge_floor_pre_epoxy.jpg


1st_layer_1st_section_1.jpg



Buddy Alex from work helping me out, doing the mixing/pouring. Giving it a taste test?
alex_with_epoxy.jpg


1st_layer_epoxy_1.jpg


1st_layer_epoxy_2.jpg


One of the few cracks I will be filling in today.
1st_layer_crack.jpg
 
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Dave88LX

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We finished around 12:30 am. It's 2pm now. I checked it a couple hours ago, still pretty tacky, leaving fingerprints on it etc. At what point should I start putting down the LiquaTile? I know it specifies within 24 hours.

This stuff went a LOT further than I expected it to. Need to have decent lighting, so that the big unspread globs can be thinned/distributed evenly; I hope I did OK with that.

This leads me to the point of the Liquatile going on twice as thick as this stuff. Are you guys doing one thick coat, or splitting it up into 2 thinner coats? I guess I'll just do 1 coat and hope for the best! Tough to evenly distribute though! Not tough as in manual labor, but the squeegee of course wants to push everything, so you've got to finesse it a bit. Then I'm rolling it out after I get it even the best I can with the squeegee, hoping not to leave any in thick clumps/globs.

tatra: I don't know, did they?
 

AlphaGarage

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didn't someone mention shelf life for these kinds of products?..............:headscrat

The spec'd shelf life for these Wolverine epoxies is 12 months. Store containers upright in cool environment.

Before combining them it's a good idea to mix each component separately.
 
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Dave88LX

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It's been ~16 hours since I laid the first coat coat of BondTite, but it's still a little tacky. It should be OK to walk on and do my IntegraFlex eh? I guess I'll give it a shot. I hate to walk on it if I shouldn't yet. It leaves footprints on the tacky surface, but it's not digging in or anything.
 

AlphaGarage

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For the prime coat you have a bit of leeway, since cosmetically it will be completely covered by a 12 mil coat of LiquaTile1184, DecoFlakes, and a clear coat of 5 mils of more BondTite 1101. So as long as your shoes are just leaving slight visible imprints, but aren't displacing any material, you'll be fine.


With the IntegraFlex really push it down into the cracks, and if you want to have a real smooth finished look let a little go over the top and outside the crack, feather it out about 1/2" to 3/4" beyond the crack edges. After it's applied it will set up and cure, you can apply the LiquaTile 1184 as soon as the IntegraFlex sets up enough that it holds its form, if you can roll out the 1184 without stepping on the IntegraFlex, and it's set enough that the recoat roller doesn't deform it, recoat away.

About spreading the epoxies: Are you using a notched squeegee or a normal blade? Notched squeegees have small evenly spaced "V"s cut on the blade, they're calibrated to allow a set amount of epoxy through the notches. They do have a bit of a learning curve, although like any physical task some folks seem to have a knack for it the first time out. If you're using one you need to be certain to find one that's calibrated to allow through the amount specified by manufacturer. We spec 5 mils for the prime and clear coat, and 12 mils for the body coat, so the project requires 2 different squeegee blades. Also, after a lot of sq ft of use the blades wear down, decreasing the size of the openings, reducing the thickness of the coating.

I find it just as easy to divide the floor into smaller areas, figure out how much epoxy should cover one area, pour the correct amounts out, and then backroll it out evenly.

Example... A 390 sq ft floor. For that we would ship a 3 gallon kit of LiquaTile 11184. Before mixing the epoxy I would carve up the floor into three 130 sqft sections. I'd use existing control joints, or wall studs, or even bits of tape applied to the walls, anything that I could use to visualize 3 equal sized areas. Then after carefully and thoroughly mixing the resin and hardener I'd pour our 1 gallon of mix in a ribbon onto each 130 sq ft segment. Then backroll to fill each segment. Done right I can relax knowing that I have enough mix, and that each area will have the proper depth of epoxy.


Love the picture! Keep 'em coming!
 
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04 Navi

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For the prime coat you have a bit of leeway, since cosmetically it will be completely covered by a 12 mil coat of LiquaTile1184, DecoFlakes, and a clear coat of 5 mils of more BondTite 1101. So as long as your shoes are just leaving slight visible imprints, but aren't displacing any material, you'll be fine.


With the IntegraFlex really push it down into the cracks, and if you want to have a real smooth finished look let a little go over the top and outside the crack, feather it out about 1/2" to 3/4" beyond the crack edges. After it's applied it will set up and cure, you can apply the LiquaTile 1184 as soon as the IntegraFlex sets up enough that it holds its form, if you can roll out the 1184 without stepping on the IntegraFlex, and it's set enough that the recoat roller doesn't deform it, recoat away.

About spreading the epoxies: Are you using a notched squeegee or a normal blade? Notched squeegees have small evenly spaced "V"s cut on the blade, they're calibrated to allow a set amount of epoxy through the notches. They do have a bit of a learning curve, although like any physical task some folks seem to have a knack for it the first time out. If you're using one you need to be certain to find one that's calibrated to allow through the amount specified by manufacturer. We spec 5 mils for the prime and clear coat, and 12 mils for the body coat, so the project requires 2 different squeegee blades. Also, after a lot of sq ft of use the blades wear down, decreasing the size of the openings, reducing the thickness of the coating.

I find it just as easy to divide the floor into smaller areas, figure out how much epoxy should cover one area, pour the correct amounts out, and then backroll it out evenly.

Example... A 350 sq ft floor. For that we would ship a 3 gallon kit of LiquaTile 11184. Before mixing the epoxy I would carve up the floor into three 150 sqft sections. I'd use existing control joints, or wall studs, or even bits of tape applied to the walls, anything that I could use to visualize 3 equal sized areas. Then after carefully and thoroughly mixing the resin and hardener I'd pour our 1 gallon of mix in a ribbon onto each 150 sq ft segment. Then backroll to fill each segment. Done right I can relax knowing that I have enough mix, and that each area will have the proper depth of epoxy.


Love the picture! Keep 'em coming!

Good ideas, and maybe check your math. :lol_hitti
 

FFPL

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You started ! Fantastic ! The liquitile is the most fun of the whole project. Divide the garage up into the number of kits you have and pour it out. Just before I throw the flakes in I spend a couple of minutes looking at it and all the high gloss wondering why I would do such a thing as put flake into it. It really is a beautiful thing to look at.
 
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Dave88LX

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It's 5:45 A.M., finally we're done for the night. I'm BEAT. And I somehow have Integraflex in my hair. This will not be fun.
 

Jaguar Fan

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Question for Fred/Wolverine:

...With the IntegraFlex really push it down into the cracks, and if you want to have a real smooth finished look let a little go over the top and outside the crack, feather it out about 1/2" to 3/4" beyond the crack edges. After it's applied it will set up and cure, you can apply the LiquaTile 1184 as soon as the IntegraFlex sets up enough that it holds its form, if you can roll out the 1184 without stepping on the IntegraFlex, and it's set enough that the recoat roller doesn't deform it, recoat away...

Hey Fred,

Is it OK to put the IntegraFlex into cracks BEFORE the Bondtite 1st coat? Or is the recommended procedure to do BondTite before the Integraflex?

Also, in the original poster's pictures, it appears BondTite was not put into the crack itself. Is that the recommended way?
 

AlphaGarage

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Re: Question for Fred/Wolverine:

Hey Fred,

Is it OK to put the IntegraFlex into cracks BEFORE the Bondtite 1st coat? Or is the recommended procedure to do BondTite before the Integraflex?

Also, in the original poster's pictures, it appears BondTite was not put into the crack itself. Is that the recommended way?

Yes, since IntegraFlex is self-priming it can go down on a clean substrate as a first step. It's often used as a expansions crack filler for highways and roads, and usually just by itself.

But if you're a belt AND suspenders type of DIYer, well we haven't come across any epoxy that adheres as well as BondTite, so consider it the suspenders of a foolproof system.
 
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Dave88LX

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Re: Question for Fred/Wolverine:

Hey Fred,

Is it OK to put the IntegraFlex into cracks BEFORE the Bondtite 1st coat? Or is the recommended procedure to do BondTite before the Integraflex?

Also, in the original poster's pictures, it appears BondTite was not put into the crack itself. Is that the recommended way?
I put the IntegraFlex on top of the coat of BondTite, and then it was covered with LiquaTile. Not sure why it looks like that but the crack is filled with Bondtite.
 
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Dave88LX

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You may want to do your whole head so it matches. dont forget the flakes!
:bounce: I should go into work like that on Tuesday.:lol_hitti

FFPL said:
You started ! Fantastic ! The liquitile is the most fun of the whole project. Divide the garage up into the number of kits you have and pour it out. Just before I throw the flakes in I spend a couple of minutes looking at it and all the high gloss wondering why I would do such a thing as put flake into it. It really is a beautiful thing to look at.
Yeah finally man! I divided the garage into 3 sections for the 3 kits, 27' wide, 15'8" deep. No problem getting the 3 gallons spread out and it setting up on me before I could get it rolled out. Unfortunately, mine looked much better with the flakes, due to the fiber-reinforced concrete. I will hit up on that shortly.

AlphaGarage said:
About spreading the epoxies: Are you using a notched squeegee or a normal blade? Notched squeegees have small evenly spaced "V"s cut on the blade, they're calibrated to allow a set amount of epoxy through the notches. They do have a bit of a learning curve, although like any physical task some folks seem to have a knack for it the first time out.
Thanks for the info! I was using a regular squeegee, no notch.

More to follow.
 
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Dave88LX

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ALRIGHT! Finally done with this project, now just have to wait for the top coat of BondTite to dry. What a weekend.

I apologize in advance if this post is all over, I'm doing my best to keep my thoughts grouped fairly close together. I'll go re-read and edit it after.


I have to say, this floor looks incredible. I was a bit nervous about how it would stick to the problem areas that I was having (oil soaked spots), but even with just the primer layer of BondTite down, walking on it with spiked shoes, it "seemed" like it will be sticking pretty well. Time will tell with that, but, I'm pretty confident at this point that it will be fine.


I think that the floor section came out GREAT, however, my 2-4" vertical cinder block area left a bit to be desired, however, this is more my fault than the product's fault. The cinder block was the most time consuming part of the whole process. The floor itself went down FAST.


Here are the mistakes that I made, and the problems that I had. I do not bring this up as a knock against Wolverine, epoxy flooring, or anything like that. I'm simply putting this out there to help along the next person, to not make the same mistakes that I made, and help their project go smoother.


I did the math to figure out how much BondTite I would need for my first coat on the cinder block. It did not seem like very much, and it went on very thin, I mean, barely glazed the surface of the blocks. I was nervous that I would not have enough to do the floor, so I did not want to mix up another batch. In hindsight, I should have made a bigger batch to begin with, and reall slathered it on there, to help fill in the porous blocks. You will have PLENTY of BondTite to push around on the floor, even though it doesn't seem like it when you first pour it out. I had quite a bit to push around and distribute with the squeegee, even after I had completely coated the section I was working on. So, if you've got porous cinder block, make some extra, and fill it good.


Because I put down a crappy base of BondTite (still talking about the cinder block edge), it soaked up the LiquaTile (grey epoxy) like a sponge. For this step, Fred sent me this white powdery weird snowy substance to mix into the LiquaTile to help thicken it up, and stick to vertical surfaces without running. I only used this on the vertical surface, when I really should have just mixed a larger batch, and used it on both the vertical AND top 2" surface, because of how much the top soaked in. Perhaps with a more liberal base of BondTite, the LiquaTile would not have soaked in so much, and it would have been a non-issue. So, one or the other, maybe both. It's pretty apparent in the finished product, where LiquaTile got smushed up against the wall when I was working it around the floor, the solid 1" high line going around the outside edge. I did my best to throw more flake at that to make it blend in.


My least favorite part about this was applying a bead of IntegraFlex around the edge, where the floor meets the vertical block. Forget about trying to use a spatula, spoon, contoured plastic, putty knife, or anything with this stuff. We tried a few different methods before just accepting the fact that our hands were going to be covered in the stuff. It starts out with the consistency of about peanut butter, and lasts for quite a bit that way. When the pot life is near it's end, it's got more the consistency of Silly Putty. At that point it was difficult to manage, and I decided to make a new batch instead. For this corner bead, I was scooping it with my forefinger, smearing it into the corner tight, then using various fingers to smooth it out on the horizontal/vertical surface, then running my thumb in the corner to give it a nice contour. Not fun stuff to play with, and hell getting out of my hair (don't ask me how it got in there), and off my hands. Be sure to have MEK and Goo Gone on hand before playing with this stuff!!!


Now, this IntegraFlex is supposed to be self-leveling, but it did not really work that way for me in the cracks I had in my floor. Per Fred's suggestion, I built it up very slightly above the surface of the crack and feathered it off a little towards the edges. It did not flatten down though, it stayed kind of bumpy as I had applied it. It was also a fresh batch, not the old "Silly Putty" like stuff. My guess is that it was perhaps too cold for it to properly self-level? I'm not sure what the working temperature is of this stuff.


To apply the flake to the horizontal surface of the block, I found it easiest to get a ~18" x 1' piece of cardboard, hold it against the top corner of the block at a steep angle, and then drop the flake on the cardboard from about a foot or so up, and let it bounce off and randomly land on the surface. For the vertical surface, since it was only 2-4" tall, it was a pain in the ***. Best solution I found was to just lay a trail of flake along the floor, about 8-10" away from the wall, get down on my hands and knees, and just blow them against the wall, to get them to randomly stick. Too hard to control any other way (at least for me).


Another big mistake that I made, was NOT burning off the exposed surface hairs protruding from the fiber-reinforced concrete. I didn't really notice them but in a couple spots that I had really worked over, but once I poured that first batch of BondTite, they started appearing EVERYWHERE, and of course hardened sticking up. This made it difficult to get a smooth mirrored beautiful finish of LiquaTile, because of all the little bumps. Once I threw down the flakes, and sealed it up with the final coat of BondTite, I don't think they're too noticeable. But, I still would go back and burn them off if I could. On the bright side, think of them as a "free anti-slip coating". :)


The last thing I would have done is dealt with my cracks much, much sooner. Originally, I did not plan to fill the cracks in, because I didn't think they were too big. Then I said if I'm spending this much money on a floor, I should do it right. I have a couple narrow cracks that still showed up through everything, perhaps I did not pour enough LiquaTile into them? I did my best to cover them in flake, and soak them with the final coat of BondTite though. Hindsight: Would have gone back in advance, ground out my cracks, primed them with LiquaTile, and filled them with IntegraFlex, as a whole separate project from the actual coating. Like I said, this was my fault, since it was a last-minute decision on my part. I really don't think they will even be visible, unless you are looking for them.

Post too long...cont'd next post.
 
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Dave88LX

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OK, enough about my mistakes and the negative parts of the project. The ONLY part about the project I did not like was the very time-consuming cinder block border. Doing the actual FLOOR went FAST. Very fast. If your garage is just drywall down to the floor, you'll have no issues. Everything went smoothly with the floor, just as planned.


I broke up my flakes into equal batches as suggested, marked the walls, and used one full batch per section. If you have a helper, do not let them help you throw flake, as they will stand in one spot, throw the flake as hard out as they can, and the majority falls in one spot (it only can be thrown so far), then you have 5 piles of flake going across the floor. After that section, I told them I would just do the flake myself, while walking around with the spiked shoes. So, the flakes look pretty funny on one section of the floor. :) Throwing them up and out, as my buddy said "Like a little Peter Pan", seemed to work well.


I did both my layers of BondTite in 3 quart batches (2 quart resin, 1 quart hardener), figured out how many batches it would make, and divided my floor up into that many equal sections. I used tape on the walls to mark everything off. I ended up doing these in 27' x 7'10" sections, since it's going on thinner than the LiquaTile.


With the LiquaTile, I just mixed the entire gallon of hardener into the 2-gallon tub of resin, and did 3 large sections (they were 27' wide x 15'8"). No issues with it hardening up or getting sticky on me too fast.


Let's talk about mixers. You will have no problems mixing the BondTite and LiquaTile with a normal 3/8" drive drill, and I used the "Squirrel Mixers" from home depot. They did a fantastic job for me. HOWEVER, don't even bother trying to mix up the IntegraFlex if you don't have a powerful 1/2" drive drill. I think I killed my 3/8" drive drill trying to mix it. Also, do not use the "Squirrel Mixers" with this stuff, it is way too thick. You want to use the type of mixer that's a circle at the bottom, with the 2 curved blades coming up to the shaft. But, just use a SMALL one, that's about 1.5" across the bottom. The 3-4" one is just too big, don't use it.


For the rollers, I couldn't find the "Candy Stripe" rollers, but I did find Wooster 1/4" nap, Mohair Blend, "All Enamels, Urethanes and Epoxies" rollers at Lowes for ~$4 each. They are item number 041873 if that helps. They are only 9", but even for this large surface area, I didn't feel that they were too small. You can get the whole floor done with one roller per layer. I had no problems with them drying up or getting sticky on me. I wasted a few at the beginning, changing them out with every section. Woops, wasted some money there.


For buckets and measuring, both Lowes and Home Depot sell 1 Quart and 2.5 Quart containers with many quart & ounce graduations on it, these were perfect for a lot of what I was doing. For the 3 Quart batches, they have red pails that are about 5 quarts, with individual quart graduations on the inside, so we just used them for measuring the large batches.


A 4-8' extension on the roller is a must! I bought a cheapie extension, and with all the pushing, it was starting to get pretty loose where the end of the tube is just crimped. Maybe spend a couple extra dollars and get the $8 one instead of the $3 one.


I've got to give Fred a huge thanks here for helping me out with this all along from the beginning. Very easy to work with, didn't make me feel like an idiot at any point in the process, even though I'm sure I asked some pretty off-the-wall questions. :) I would not hesitate one bit recommending someone to talk with Fred about getting set up with a new floor! THANK YOU!!!



Well, I think this covers most of what I have to say! I'm sure I left out tons! Feel free to post up any questions you've got and I'll answer them to the best of my ability. Now, let's get on to some pictures!!!
 
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Dave88LX

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I used 27 pounds of flakes total, 9 pounds of each. The flakes come in large buckets, unmixed. I found it easiest to take one equal measure (I just used a plastic cup) of each color, dump it into Tupperware, mix it up, then pour it into a clean 5-gallon bucket. I did this enough times to where I could just pour what was left of the other 2 buckets into the 3rd bucket, and mix that. Then I poured the contents of the 5-gallon bucket back into the other 3, divided evenly. I then divided each bucket's worth into 5 equal ZipLoc bags. The garage was divided into 15 equal areas to spread the flakes.
flakes_in_buckets.jpg


flakes_mixed.jpg



Here is what I was talking about the border of IntegraFlex. Pressed into the corner, tapered along the floor/wall, and contoured the curve with my thumb. It's not the prettiest job, but it gets the job done. It's covered by a thick coating of LiquaTile, flakes, and another coat of BondTite, so the imperfections shouldn't show through.
integraflex_border_closeup_1.jpg



Here's the IntegraFlex around the whole garage.
integraflex_border_1.jpg



This is what sucked. Blowing the flakes to stick to the vertical surface. Nothing was easy about getting these evenly distributed (which I failed at) vertically.
line_flakes_to_vertical.jpg



2nd_layer_vertical_1.jpg



MOST people complain about moths and bugs falling or crawling into the surface of their epoxy. Well, I had this ******* decide he wanted to get into mine. Thankfully it was mostly dry at this point. Also in this picture you can see hairline cracks that filled in no problem. It's the larger cracks that I was having problem with.
spider.jpg



Portion of the mess. I highly recommend getting a tarp to set everything on.
cleanup_mess.jpg



First section, with LiquaTile, and flaked. You can see the tape marks on the wall where I divided it up evenly for the flakes.
2nd_layer_section_1.jpg



Squeegeing out the LiquaTile on the 2nd section. See spiked shoes. Tried to get the excess pushed around as evenly as possible. It will flatten down once it's all rolled out afterwards.
me_squeegee_liquatile.jpg



These next few pictures are with the LiquaTile and flake, but BEFORE the final coat of BondTite is applied, so this is *not* the final product.

You can kind of see that 1" line going up the vertical block that I was talking about, this spot I missed on the re-flake. Ah well. I will just put a tool box in front of this spot. ;)
2nd_layer_done_4.jpg



Still just LiquaTile & flake, looks a million times better than concrete! Hard to get a decent picture in there.
2nd_layer_done_3.jpg



LiquaTile & Flake, dries to a dull grey. I thought that this looked good. That was UNTIL I put the final coat of BondTite down. Then I thought "ew, that looks ugly compared to it!"
2nd_layer_closeup_2.jpg



Don't even bother wearing your nice shoes on this job.
normal_shoes_flakes.jpg



I have a few more pictures to upload, I'll have them up shortly.
 
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Dave88LX

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Here's the rest. It's still tacky, so I can't walk in there and get better pictures yet. I will later though. I'm annoyed, I already see about 7-8 moths sitting on top of the floor. :mad:


Me and Alex, finally done with this project. That is the 1/2" drill I needed to mix up the IntegraFlex. Also, those are the "Squirrel Mixers" that worked great. I have no idea who Ted Bumpus is, but hey, it was a free shirt. I'm still honoring the guy with my what, 12 year old shirt? Heh.
me_alex_done.jpg



This is how you define "Irony". Two nights ago, after we laid the LiquaTile and the flakes, I saw a moth hovering in near the door opening, against the wall. I stepped in to grab the moth, and I slipped when I lunged to grab the stupid thing. It was too late to do anything at this point. All I could do was laugh. :lol:
spike_scrapes.jpg



Here, you can see the difference between LiquaTile, and after it's been coated with BondTite. I split the light evenly, can't hardly see the reflection off the regular LiquaTile.
3rd_layer_comparison_1.jpg


Another shot:
3rd_layer_comparison_2.jpg


Laying down the final coat of LiquaTile, can see the difference between with and without towards the middle.
3rd_layer_done_1.jpg



FINALLY DONE! I need to get a better pic in better light. Looks SO much better in person!
3rd_layer_done_2.jpg



This is a better representation of what it looks like now. I'm hoping it dries just as glossy. It's still glossy as of now, and it's mostly dry, still tacky.
3rd_layer_closeup.jpg
 
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AlphaGarage

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Nice write up, and great looking floor!

The vertical surfaces usually take up most of the time. One method of applying the DecoFlakes to the verts is to use a strong side arm toss and throw hand fulls against the still wet LiquaTile.

The joint where the vertical wall meets the horizontal floor is called the "chime." Depending on how the garage was constructed, the materials used etc. there will often be movement along the chime. That displacement results in a crack, and the crack will run up through any coating, that's why we recommend a bead of IntegraFlex along the chime. It will flex (within reason) and no cracks will show on the epoxy. If you feel that there won't be any displacement along the chime, or you can live with a possible crack showing, then there's no reason to use IntegraFlex along the chime.

You do a good job of describing how IntegraFlex works - it does have a longer pot life, but be careful not to mix too much because it will eventually get too hard to easily apply.

I haven't used "GooGone" with it yet, if that does work it's a far, far, nicer cleaner to work with than MEK. A similar citrus based product that might also work is "De-Solv-It," which I actually prefer to GooGone, next time I'm working with IntegraFlex I'll try some. (Quick question - has Alex been around the MEK in an enclosed environment w/o proper ventilation?)

You did receive the DecoFlakes colors separated. Usually we ship them already blended. We will ship them separate, and the price for separate colors is less than if we mix them, so you'll save about 60 cents per pound if you don't mind doing the blending yourself. BTW I like the color combo you have! Especially nice for the Ford fanatics. BTW Our most popular blend of DecoFlakes is "Moody Granite," but if it's okay with you we might offer your blend also, call it "Moody Bumpus."

Tape marks on the wall is an excellent way to divide up the space for easier portion control. That way you end up with the correct amount of material depth, plus you won't run out!

Yup - no reason to swap out a roller cover until the one you're working with starts to set up too much and makes it difficult to smoothly spread the epoxy. But I still advocate getting a few extra, hate to need one and not have it, just hang onto those receipts and return the unused ones.

A long roller extension pole is the way to go!

That mixer does looks like it would do fine with the LiquaTile and Bondtite, but might have a problem with the thicker IntegraFlex. This style seems to work well with all three:

45748.jpg


Some people have asked why we don't provide a complete kit with roller covers, gloves etc. From a marketing standpoint it's a good idea, I know I'd sell more product. But the truth is that I don't think it's the best way to go for the buyer. Looking at the competition the extra stuff, roller cover, gloves etc., is sold almost at cost plus a couple of bucks. But many DIYers already have a lot of stuff in the kit, so why make 'em pay extra? Plus, we pride ourselves on selling the best coatings, and if we do sell a kit I'd hate to send out anything less, even the quality of the extension pole or gloves can have a big impact on the quality of the finished product and one's enjoyment of the project.

When I look at the tools I use, they're pretty much top drawer. On occasion I'll buy an expendable or one-time use tool from Harbor Freight, but generally I want tools that will do the job without fail. There is nothing worse than being in the middle of a project and a tool, even a simple one, fails; I hate that! This is especially true for tasks that are time critical - like putting down epoxy!

So for us to include quality tools etc it would probably need to be priced higher than most folks would want to pay, especially if they're not likely to ever need the tools again. Better to go to the local store and just get only what you need, and of the quality you want.
 
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FFPL

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Massachusetts
that looks really nice. I know what you're saying about the walls. I've spent more time prepping/coating walls than I would like to admit.

Sit back, relax, (drink) and enjoy your new floor.

And don't forget that now that Alex helped you do your floor you're now going to have to help him do his !
 

FFPL

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Oct 12, 2007
Messages
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Massachusetts
This is what sucked. Blowing the flakes to stick to the vertical surface. Nothing was easy about getting these evenly distributed (which I failed at) vertically.
line_flakes_to_vertical.jpg



2nd_layer_vertical_1.jpg
That blue looks fantastic. I reckon that blue and some silver flake on a red base would look amazing.

Anyway, you can still put more flake on your wall if you're not happy with it. Put some bondtite on the wall and broadcast more flake into it (or just on the areas that you are not happy with). The flake sticks to the bondtite much better than liquitile. Then put another coat of bondtite on the top.
 
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Dave88LX

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York, PA
You guys look like you had a ton of fun. Love the expression on your faces !!!!
He wasn't having too much fun the night we were doing the IntegraFlex. :bounce: Especially not when we didn't get done with the LiquaTile until 5:30 a.m.:wtf:


If you liked those facial expressions you might like these too.:shocking:

I'm in blue, Alex is in green.


me_alex_done_2.jpg


me_alex_done_3.jpg
 
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Dave88LX

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that looks really nice. I know what you're saying about the walls. I've spent more time prepping/coating walls than I would like to admit.

Sit back, relax, (drink) and enjoy your new floor.

And don't forget that now that Alex helped you do your floor you're now going to have to help him do his !
Yeah your walls look incredible! Especially your buddy's there, with everything cut at a 45* angle, looks sharp! I was telling myself "Damn, I'm glad I don't have that much vertical concrete to mess with!" when I was reading your posts. I think that 45* cut looks awesome though. Yes, lots of beer to be drank now! I'm just going to let it sit for a week before I do anything with it. It's been this long, I can wait a week or so to let it fully cure. :D I'm annoyed, I already count about 7-8 moths sitting in the top coat. Figures. :lol_hitti

Fortunately for me, Alex doesn't have a house or garage, he's renting an apartment. I told him look at the bright side though, now he's "earned his stake" in my garage, so if he needs to do some work he's got precedence over anyone else that needs a spot. :D

Good tip about adding more flake. I think at this point I will probably just leave it be, and hope the next person learns from my mistakes and follows my advice with it. I still have to finish laying the hardwood in my house, finish off the spare bedroom so we can empty out the other room which will be the baby's room, and get the house ready for January when our daughter is born. If I was out there adding more flake to the wall, I'd end up paying child support. :lol_hitti
 
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Dave88LX

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Woohoo! Finally got to walk on the floor! It's so darn smooth, it's awesome, EXCEPT where all the reinforcement fibers are coming up.:mad: It really is a beautiful floor. I'm going to just pretend that these fibers are just an anti-slip additive, otherwise it's going to eat at me. I don't think it'd be worth sanding them down, and adding another 4 gallons of BondTite. Hopefully they will naturally get knocked down over time?

Let me reiterate this point for everyone:

IF YOU HAVE FIBER REINFORCED CONCRETE, EVEN IF YOU DON'T SEE FIBERS, BURN OFF THE ENTIRE SURFACE OF YOUR CONCRETE!!!

Or, at least be aware of the possibility, and make certain you don't have exposed fibers.
 
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WolverineCoatings

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Spartanburg, SC
This leads me to the point of the Liquatile going on twice as thick as this stuff. Are you guys doing one thick coat, or splitting it up into 2 thinner coats?

1 Thick Coat...

The spec'd shelf life for these Wolverine epoxies is 12 months. Store containers upright in cool environment.
We're usually worried more about the pail wearing out than the material inside going bad... The LiquaTile 1184 can settle over time but will typically mix right back in.

It's been ~16 hours since I laid the first coat coat of BondTite, but it's still a little tacky.
16 hours is a long time... it's either cold, you have alot of moisture in your concrete, or mix ratio was off...

It should be OK to walk on and do my IntegraFlex eh? I guess I'll give it a shot. I hate to walk on it if I shouldn't yet. It leaves footprints on the tacky surface, but it's not digging in or anything.
One Word... Spiked Shoes!!! Okay, well... that was 2 words... BUT... it's a good time to remind everyone... BUY SPIKED SHOES when you do this!

And I somehow have Integraflex in my hair. This will not be fun.
DOH... I hate that... but... the worst thing to get in your hair is BondTite 1101... I got some in mine last Monday... Haircut on Tuesday... lol...

My least favorite part about this was applying a bead of IntegraFlex around the edge, where the floor meets the vertical block. Forget about trying to use a spatula, spoon, contoured plastic, putty knife, or anything with this stuff. We tried a few different methods before just accepting the fact that our hands were going to be covered in the stuff. It starts out with the consistency of about peanut butter, and lasts for quite a bit that way. When the pot life is near it's end, it's got more the consistency of Silly Putty. At that point it was difficult to manage, and I decided to make a new batch instead. For this corner bead, I was scooping it with my forefinger, smearing it into the corner tight, then using various fingers to smooth it out on the horizontal/vertical surface, then running my thumb in the corner to give it a nice contour. Not fun stuff to play with, and hell getting out of my hair (don't ask me how it got in there), and off my hands. Be sure to have MEK and Goo Gone on hand before playing with this stuff!!!
Yeah... I agree... the cracks are the hardest part... I notice that you were using IntegraFlex 1922 (not self leveling) which is more difficult than IntegraFlex 1921. The IntegraFlex 1921 is self-leveling. I like to use Bondo blades to spread it... Some of our customers cove it over cracks (kind of like a speedbump) and then shave it flat with a razorblade when it starts setting up...

think of them as a "free anti-slip coating".
lol...

HOWEVER, don't even bother trying to mix up the IntegraFlex if you don't have a powerful 1/2" drive drill. I think I killed my 3/8" drive drill trying to mix it.
DOH!

The flakes come in large buckets, unmixed.
Psst... we'll blend them for you...

Well, it looks like you did a great job! Congratulations!
Eric
 
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Dave88LX

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16 hours is a long time... it's either cold, you have alot of moisture in your concrete, or mix ratio was off...
I'm hoping it was just because it was cold, I believe it was high 50s low 60s at night.

One Word... Spiked Shoes!!! Okay, well... that was 2 words... BUT... it's a good time to remind everyone... BUY SPIKED SHOES when you do this!
Amen to that. I couldn't imagine doing this project without them. BUY THE SPIKED SHOES.

Yeah... I agree... the cracks are the hardest part... I notice that you were using IntegraFlex 1922 (not self leveling) which is more difficult than IntegraFlex 1921. The IntegraFlex 1921 is self-leveling. I like to use Bondo blades to spread it... Some of our customers cove it over cracks (kind of like a speedbump) and then shave it flat with a razorblade when it starts setting up...
Now that is not a bad idea at all, and I feel like slapping myself for not even thinking about shaving them smooth with a razor blade. Lesson learned.

Psst... we'll blend them for you...
Oh see now you tell me. :lol_hitti

Well, it looks like you did a great job! Congratulations!
Eric
Thank you!!!! I *LOVE* it!!!



The only thing that is still really bugging me is the damn fibers sticking up. I had thought that I had seen somewhere that they would most likely lay down or be covered with everything, but that just didn't happen in my case.

I'm debating on if I want to try and figure out a way to get them knocked down flush and do another coat of LiquaTile or not. I have one area with no fibers, and it's gorgeous. The rest is gorgeous too, just, a bumpy prickly gorgeous. :bounce:
 

romelle

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Oct 11, 2008
Messages
5
Would those fibers sticking up come off with a razor? Or are they too thick for that approach?

Romelle
 

WolverineCoatings

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Oct 22, 2007
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833
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Spartanburg, SC
The only thing that is still really bugging me is the damn fibers sticking up. I had thought that I had seen somewhere that they would most likely lay down or be covered with everything, but that just didn't happen in my case.

I'm debating on if I want to try and figure out a way to get them knocked down flush and do another coat of LiquaTile or not. I have one area with no fibers, and it's gorgeous. The rest is gorgeous too, just, a bumpy prickly gorgeous.

I understand... You could try the razor approach or... sanding... Then, put a light coat of clear back over it. You may want to get some good knee pads and just get down on your hands and knees and see what you can do with those...
 
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Dave88LX

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I don't think they're too thick with a razor; I just cant imagine trying to trim 1260 sqft of flooring with a 1.25" wide razor blade. :lol: I think I will just leave it be for now and see how it works out. If I decided I really hate the fibers, I'll just deal with it in the future.



I took a few pics today now that I've been walking on it. This pic represents the "average" spread of flake around the floor:
floor_18oct_4.jpg


floor_18oct_1.jpg


And this is one of the built-up areas where I had to say "OK you can quit throwing flakes in that spot!" and decided to just do it myself. I think this actually does look good too, but, too colorful for a floor that will be a work floor. If it was a wood shop or parking garage, it'd be different.
floor_18oct_3.jpg






Old habits are hard to break. :lol: I'm scared to get it dirty! Actually, It hasn't been a full week yet, I've gone this long, want to give it plenty of time to cure. I figure next week I'll start moving stuff in there.

normal_civic_jacked_up.jpg


civic_outside_garage_2.jpg
 

drivinhard

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Braselton, GA
What's the best way to burn fibers off the floor?

I should be doing my Wolverine floor this weekend

thanks for the tips, I'm sure I'll find a way to screw it up though :thumbup:
 
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