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Finally picked up a milling machine...
- Thread starter Jason280
- Start date
Aaron_W
Well-known member
I tried ordering that book before, ended up with some kind of extra addition.....the actual book isn't exactly cheap!
You don't need the latest edition unless you are doing industrial CNC work, and even then for many it is more than is needed.
Find yourself a used copy. The information contained within changes over time, I have a 1954 edition which includes a lot of older information purged for space from more recent editions. I also have a 1980s edition.
Most of us hobbyists are doing manual work with basic materials so we generally don't need info on the latest high tech alloys, and cutting edge machine techniques so an older (and cheaper) edition is quite adequate.
I would recommend you get the matching guide to the handbook. The handbook assumes you know this stuff, the guide goes into more detail to help one understand the info in the handbook.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'd love to find a deal like that. In my area, that'd be listed for $3k.
Here you go...$1495 new
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-Mill-Drill-with-Stand/G0704
The trick is getting your mill table that level and it is not easy.
That's what I am working on now. I've been looking for a couple matched block sets to tram the head, but not sure if I should do that before or after I level the table.
That's what I am working on now. I've been looking for a couple matched block sets to tram the head, but not sure if I should do that before or after I level the table.
A level table is irrelevant to a machine tram. No need for special blocks or fixtures either. Indicate off the table top, or the vise bed if necessary. Tram is to make sure that the spindle is perpendicular to the table top. This also assumes that the column ( or knee) way is perpendicular to the X&Y ways. and that the spindle travel is also parallel to the vertical ways.
There are a lot of items that have to be square, parallel, and straight in a mill and if you really want to do precision work you have to check them. For now assume that all is correct and make some cuts and then measure what you cut. If it measures what you dialed in then your good for now. Once you get better then parts you make may not be to your satisfaction and you start to chase the issues that cause problems and either fix them or graduate to a machine that does what you ask of it.
lg
no neat sig line
Last edited:
TheLoamRanger
Active member
Awesome find! I started out with a G0704 back in 2012. I did the HOSS CNC conversion and belt drive conversion after a couple years. Man, that was fun. I actually just sold the machine back in August to make room for a larger CNC.
Let me know if you want any specific advise relating to a machine that size: tooling, workholding, upgrades, etc and I can give you my perspective.
My main recommendation to start would be to ditch the stock stand. I built a heavy duty wood stand w/ adjustable vibration damping feet to replace it, and it made a BIG difference for me. I was able to get the machine to sit at a more comfortable height, it was more stable overall, and the wood helped damp vibrations - more important with CNC than manual machining, but still worth while.
Also, a small variety of 2 flute and 4 flute endmills in the common sizes up to 3/4" (center cutting, regular length, cheapo HSS), some spot drills/center drills, and a chamfer mill is a great starting point.
The drill chuck that came with mine had horrible runout, so I upgraded to a Jacobs chuck with a cheap arbor for about $80 on sale.
I felt like a 4" vise was just about perfect for that machine. I wouldn't go any larger. I used that for 98% of the work I did. The other 2% was held with a cheapo clamp kit.
Enjoy!
-DK
View media item 91457
Let me know if you want any specific advise relating to a machine that size: tooling, workholding, upgrades, etc and I can give you my perspective.
My main recommendation to start would be to ditch the stock stand. I built a heavy duty wood stand w/ adjustable vibration damping feet to replace it, and it made a BIG difference for me. I was able to get the machine to sit at a more comfortable height, it was more stable overall, and the wood helped damp vibrations - more important with CNC than manual machining, but still worth while.
Also, a small variety of 2 flute and 4 flute endmills in the common sizes up to 3/4" (center cutting, regular length, cheapo HSS), some spot drills/center drills, and a chamfer mill is a great starting point.
The drill chuck that came with mine had horrible runout, so I upgraded to a Jacobs chuck with a cheap arbor for about $80 on sale.
I felt like a 4" vise was just about perfect for that machine. I wouldn't go any larger. I used that for 98% of the work I did. The other 2% was held with a cheapo clamp kit.
Enjoy!
-DK
View media item 91457
My main recommendation to start would be to ditch the stock stand. I built a heavy duty wood stand w/ adjustable vibration damping feet to replace it, and it made a BIG difference for me. I was able to get the machine to sit at a more comfortable height, it was more stable overall, and the wood helped damp vibrations - more important with CNC than manual machining, but still worth while.
I haven't been overly impressed with my stand, either, but it has grown on me. At the very least, I am going to weld up a wider base to bolt to the floor...that way it will have a little larger footprint. I also didn't like the height at first, but its perfect with a roll around stool.
I haven't checked the runout on my chuck yet, but oddly enough, I picked up a spare Jacobs some time back that will fit. Of course, it was used, so who knows if its any better than the included Chinese model.
I definitely have to get some center drills, that's one of the things I am missing. I ordered a few different cutters the other night, should be able to pick them up Monday.
Just to be curious, how much was the CNC set up?
nelstomlinson
Well-known member
Find yourself a used copy. The information contained within changes over time, I have a 1954 edition which includes a lot of older information purged for space from more recent editions. I also have a 1980s edition.
Most of us hobbyists are doing manual work with basic materials so we generally don't need info on the latest high tech alloys, and cutting edge machine techniques so an older (and cheaper) edition is quite adequate.
What edition was the last that was chock full of old timey stuff from grandad's workshop?
What edition was the last that was pre-CNC?
I'm thinking that one for old-timey tricks, and one for ``modern'' pre-computer stuff, might be optimal for dinking around with stuff from the scrap pile.
TheLoamRanger
Active member
I haven't been overly impressed with my stand, either, but it has grown on me. At the very least, I am going to weld up a wider base to bolt to the floor...that way it will have a little larger footprint. I also didn't like the height at first, but its perfect with a roll around stool.
I haven't checked the runout on my chuck yet, but oddly enough, I picked up a spare Jacobs some time back that will fit. Of course, it was used, so who knows if its any better than the included Chinese model.
I definitely have to get some center drills, that's one of the things I am missing. I ordered a few different cutters the other night, should be able to pick them up Monday.
Just to be curious, how much was the CNC set up?
I could have gone cheaper, but I wanted to make sure the stepper motors weren't undersized and I upgraded from the ACME lead screws to ball screws (which I would recommend).
-Mechanical: Ball screws, couplers, bearings (including spindle bearings because I knew I was going to increase spindle speed), shims, high speed spindle bearing grease, and a whole bunch of hardware came out to about $500.
- Electronics: Stepper motors, stepper drivers, NEMA enclosure power supplies, variety of limit and e-stop switches, fuses, cable & wire, etc came to about $1100. I built a cheapo computer for about $400 with SSD, serial port, monitor, and all peripherals.
- Metal stock to make mounts and such was probably $100.
- Tools: Of course I had to upgrade some of the machining and electronics tools to do the work!! A real soldering station was definitely worth the $80 I spent on it.
All in, I was around $4000 for the mill thu the CNC conversion process. And lots of hours...
-DK