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Finally pulled the trigger on a lift

ncfireman1918

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Jan 19, 2010
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235
Location
Triad, NC
I've been building/finishing my shop for about 7 months now. The plan always included a 2 post lift at some point. The CFO(my wife) gave the go ahead to purchase last week, so I placed my order today. I went with a Derek Weaver W-Pro10 (10k lb), and I'm scheduled to pick it up at their Charlotte, NC warehouse on Friday. No pics to show right now (except for the beating my wallet just took), but I'll be updating this and my build thread as I make progress.

There are quite a few good lifts out there, but after all the research that I did over the last year, I settled on the W-Pro10 because it seems to do a good job of balancing cost with being ALI certified. It fits my ceiling height perfectly at its tallest position, and Rotary is the actual manufacturer as listed on the ALI web lookup. I've used a few Rotary lifts over the years, and they were all pretty high quality, so I feel like it was less of a risk than some other brands out there. It was worth a couple hundred dollars more to me to get a certified lift (but not a couple thousand). Hopefully it serves me well, and I'm certain that I can justify the cost over a short period in repair work that I can more easily do. This post is a bit premature, but I know this group can understand how excited I am right now!
 
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ncfireman1918

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Jan 19, 2010
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Triad, NC
The first view of the bottom of your car, from your own lift, is one you'll never forget.

Especially when the bottom of that car is my Mercedes E Class diesel, ‘cause it needs a new DPF, and I’ve been putting it off until the lift is in. I’m about done with German cars (especially diesels)! I’m sure I’ll say some choice words during that freakin repair.
 

jabelding

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Feb 16, 2019
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Maine
Thanks for the update that looks like a great lift, might have to pull the trigger on one myself, unfortunately, I will have to go the shipping route since I am way north of NC!
 

Bdflies

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Apr 15, 2018
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Looking back at MANY years of collecting a lot of tools, the lift has been the best value for my $$ ever!
Enjoy!

Bill
 

CraigStu

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May 22, 2014
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Blacksburg, Va
Before retiring I worked over 30 yrs or so in 4 dealers in the DC area. Every one of them had Rotary lifts. So yeah, I think they are good one for sure.
 

Quik434

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Apr 19, 2018
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I'm considering this lift as well so I'm looking forward to seeing your install
 
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ncfireman1918

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Jan 19, 2010
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Triad, NC
You know how you are off loading it and getting upright? Drill all the way through if using sleeve anchors. And use an sds with new bit. Worth it to get perfect holes


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I will have to figure out exactly how I’m getting it off, based on how it’s packaged. I have access to a Bobcat with forks, so that is my most likely candidate. Either as a bundle, or broken down into individual pieces. As far as getting upright, not completely sure there either. Likely me and 1-2 others to just walk the posts upright. I have a Bosch rotary hammer drill that hasn’t let me down yet. I think I have a new bit, but I’ll double check. Not using sleeve anchors, using drop in wedge anchors. I don’t drill all the way through for those, right?
 

Kaizen

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I will have to figure out exactly how I’m getting it off, based on how it’s packaged. I have access to a Bobcat with forks, so that is my most likely candidate. Either as a bundle, or broken down into individual pieces. As far as getting upright, not completely sure there either. Likely me and 1-2 others to just walk the posts upright. I have a Bosch rotary hammer drill that hasn’t let me down yet. I think I have a new bit, but I’ll double check. Not using sleeve anchors, using drop in wedge anchors. I don’t drill all the way through for those, right?



Sorry meant wedge. Yes drill all the way though. If one does not set you can just pound it through and drop in another. I did not do that and took ten hours to get mine out without wrecking the concrete.
I took mine off my truck piece at a time with engine hoist. Got it all in the floor then stood up the towers alone using the hoist. Basically found a center of gravity that I could lift and then stand. I do not recommend that. Scariest thing I’ve done in this build. I could not budge it myself.
I have a hammer drill and all I saw was use an sds. Not sure if yours fits that category. Makes sides of holes nice and smooth.
Spend some time reading on others installs. Lots of tips and what to do if it goes bad.


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ncfireman1918

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Jan 19, 2010
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Triad, NC
Kaizen, good call on drilling all the way through. I'll keep that in mind. My rotary hammer is a Bosch Bulldog SDS. I should be good. I'll have to make sure that I have a bit long enough to get through the slab. I had 4ft x 4ft sections poured at 6" deep and rebar tied to the rest of the 4" slab, based on the installation dimensions of this lift. Pretty sure most of the bits are at least 12" long, so I should be good.
 

Kaizen

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Kaizen, good call on drilling all the way through. I'll keep that in mind. My rotary hammer is a Bosch Bulldog SDS. I should be good. I'll have to make sure that I have a bit long enough to get through the slab. I had 4ft x 4ft sections poured at 6" deep and rebar tied to the rest of the 4" slab, based on the installation dimensions of this lift. Pretty sure most of the bits are at least 12" long, so I should be good.



Yea most are. See what torque they are supposed to get to as well. Mine were 150ft pounds and I had to go buy a bigger wrench to get that high.


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ncfireman1918

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Jan 19, 2010
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Triad, NC
I ran down to Charlotte this morning to pick up the lift. It’s a bit odd, as you pull into a big warehouse building, with few markings on the doors. It was a logistics company, that I assume is contracted to handle the warehousing for Derek Weaver. I signed for the lift, and they loaded it onto my car hauler. The drive back was uneventful, and I managed to unload it with a skid steer with forks pretty easily. I separated it and moved each piece individually, so it wasn’t too difficult. It’s laying in the bay where it will go, I just have to find some time over the weekend to start assembly. I’m beyond excited about this purchase!

A couple of pics of it lying on the floor...

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SeanH

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Feb 22, 2012
Messages
26
Here for install pics as well! I just bought myself a Bendpak XPR-10XLS...needed the vertical lift height to clear my giant head. lol
 
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ncfireman1918

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Jan 19, 2010
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Triad, NC
Here for install pics as well! I just bought myself a Bendpak XPR-10XLS...needed the vertical lift height to clear my giant head. lol

I hear that! I’m 6’ 4” and this is one of few that lift high enough for me to pretty much stand up under it. Good luck with the XPR!
 
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ncfireman1918

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Jan 19, 2010
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Triad, NC
Anybody have any good ideas on how I can easily roll that power column (in the back in the first pic, on the right in the second) 180 degrees? I need the carriage facing up to install hoses and cable, etc. I just realized that I set it upside down. I’m wondering if I can sling it with my engine hoist to take some of the weight, and roll it over while it’s partially off the ground...
 
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JeepJohn62

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Feb 25, 2019
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Alaska
Anybody have any good ideas on how I can easily roll that power column (in the back in the first pic, on the right in the second) 180 degrees? I need the carriage facing up to install hoses and cable, etc. I just realized that I set it upside down. I’m wondering if I can sling it with my engine hoist to take some of the weight, and roll it over while it’s partially off the ground...
Looks good. I used my engine hoist and a nylon strap to lift and manage the heavy pieces into place. It's a bit of a goat rope with the legs and all. But it worked for me. Lift carefully and slowly. Be wary of shifting loads.

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Kaizen

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Jan 9, 2015
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New England
Anybody have any good ideas on how I can easily roll that power column (in the back in the first pic, on the right in the second) 180 degrees? I need the carriage facing up to install hoses and cable, etc. I just realized that I set it upside down. I’m wondering if I can sling it with my engine hoist to take some of the weight, and roll it over while it’s partially off the ground...
you should be able to turn it by hand. grab the base and balls out.

but can't you install after standing? guess it depends if its a baseplate or top plate. once up they walk remarkably easy
 

346ci

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Jan 1, 2010
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I used a come along tied to the rigid frame rafter to stand my posts up, some cardboard under the post base will help protect the paint and slide easy.

Buy the correct diameter rebar cutter for your hammer drill, you will need it.

Congrats, nothing like having a lift.
 
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ncfireman1918

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Triad, NC
you should be able to turn it by hand. grab the base and balls out.

but can't you install after standing? guess it depends if its a baseplate or top plate. once up they walk remarkably easy

I absolutely can install after standing, but after doing a ton of Internet digging for information about this lift, it looks like it is way easier to run hoses and cables while the column is horizontal. I didn’t try rolling it yesterday, I’ll give that a shot.
 
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ncfireman1918

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Triad, NC
I used a come along tied to the rigid frame rafter to stand my posts up, some cardboard under the post base will help protect the paint and slide easy.

Buy the correct diameter rebar cutter for your hammer drill, you will need it.

Congrats, nothing like having a lift.

I’ll have to look into rebar cutters. Is it a combination bit, where it will drill the concrete, but will also cut rebar if you hit it?
 
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ncfireman1918

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Triad, NC
Scratch that last question. I Googled after I posted. I see that it is an additional bit. Drill with the normal concrete bit until I hit rebar, switch to the rebar cutter and rotary drill mode, the switch back to concrete bit and hammer drill after I’m through the rebar. These are gonna be the 10 most stressful holes I’ve ever drilled. Too many stories of anchors not setting correctly.
 

ycanby

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Mar 18, 2020
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Ohio
Hello, Is the Derek Weaver lift a US made one? They seem pretty reasonably priced. Thanks
 

Kaizen

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Scratch that last question. I Googled after I posted. I see that it is an additional bit. Drill with the normal concrete bit until I hit rebar, switch to the rebar cutter and rotary drill mode, the switch back to concrete bit and hammer drill after I’m through the rebar. These are gonna be the 10 most stressful holes I’ve ever drilled. Too many stories of anchors not setting correctly.



As long as you can pound out the anchor it’s not an issue. Worst case you get epoxy anchors if any are spinning. Key is the sides of the hole. Nice and straight and use air and a brush to blow out dust. Goes without saying BUT make sure it’s assembled first and posts are plumb.
We are here for you if issues.


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ncfireman1918

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Jan 19, 2010
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Triad, NC
Man, I work slower than I want to! I have made some progress on getting the lift installed, but I **** at updating threads on here. My brother-in-law came by the other night and we muscled the columns upright. It really wasn't as bad as I had expected. I've got most of the assembly done, with the exception of anchoring the posts and doing the electrical. I'm hoping to drill the floor and set the anchors tonight. After that, it's wire it, fill it and test it. Put the arms on and I'm done. Easy, right? Hopefully I can lift something this weekend. Here are a few pics of it upright...

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ncfireman1918

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Looking good. How are the instructions?

They leave a little to be desired, but aren't the worst instructions I've ever seen. I watched a few videos on YouTube over the last year or so, so I had a pretty good idea of what's up.
 

JasonF

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Aug 22, 2012
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Central Mi
Thanks for the update! I've been following as this is the lift I'm going to buy once I make sure I don't owe the government too much tax money.
I was curious about the instructions as well.
 

tulenutn2o

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Dec 21, 2010
Messages
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IC a giant sign reminding the operator of overhead instructions, in your future. No operating with door open.
 
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ncfireman1918

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IC a giant sign reminding the operator of overhead instructions, in your future. No operating with door open.

Luckily I’m the only operator. The doors are around 10.5-11ft off the floor when open. The perspective in the photos makes it look closer than it is. I was aware of the obstruction before I purchased.
 
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ncfireman1918

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Triad, NC
I’ve made some progress this weekend. I got the release cable system finished up, installed the short hose from the pump, and the really big (at least it felt that way) leap forward was getting holes drilled for the 10 anchor bolts. Best of all, all 10 set properly and took the 110 lb ft of torque that was specified in the instructions. I’ve got to wire it, fill the hydraulics and I can test. No pics right now, but more later.
 
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ncfireman1918

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Triad, NC
I finally got it finished. I managed to get the lift wired on Thursday, then filled and bled the hydraulics. I got back out there yesterday to install the arms, make some adjustments and button everything up. I **** at taking pics while I work, because it’s usually just me out there. No in progress pics, but I snapped one shot before I turned the lights out. I hastily moved the tools out of the way for the picture. I’ll get it cleaned up in the next couple of days and will put something in the air. I’ve got plenty of jobs in mind that will make good use of the lift.

For those who have asked about the instructions, they were pretty good. There are several areas where they could have been more clear, but overall they weren’t too bad. Everything went together pretty well overall. I think the biggest issue was trying to thread a bolt into a hole that had gotten a little powder coating on the threads. If that was the worst of it, I think I’m doing pretty well. My only real complaint is that the hardware could have been packaged and/or organized and labeled better. There were pretty much bags of bolts, nuts and other hardware, and they didn’t seem logically grouped in any way. I ended up measuring a few bolts to make sure that I had the right one. Overall, I am very pleased with the quality of the materials, manufacturing and packaging. Based on my experience so far, I would absolutely recommend this lift. I think it’s one of the better values out there, when comparing the price to what you get.

The only thing that I have left to sort out is that it jerks when it’s lowering. I’ve read that it’s likely air in the hydraulics, so I’ll repeat the bleeding procedure, and see if that cures it. I’m guessing that it will.

Here’s my one pic of everything done (except the door guards, just remembered that I have to install those):

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ncfireman1918

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I managed to get everything buttoned you and double checked tonight. I cleaned up my tools, and decided that I HAD to put something in the air, just to enjoy the awesomeness. The ‘64 C10 was already in the shop, so I put it on wheel dollies and rolled it into the lift bay. I’m 6’4”, and can stand up under the truck. Just gotta watch my head on the crossmember under the cab! I couldn’t be any happier with my purchase!

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240sxguy

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Jan 6, 2009
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Madison, wi
I can't stand under most lifts upright either. I am a bit shorter than you at 6'2. Just tall enough to hit my head on SOME stuff.

Would you be able to walk under it without those extensions on the arms? My cars are too low to use those.
 
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