FINALLY...Started building new garage today!
- Thread starter DynoDave
- Start date
I finally have the roof 100% done. Lot's of delays, but at least that's off my back! Stopped by the siding supplier last Friday, and saw the garage door company today. Things are moving along slower than I'd like, but they are moving.
Xtreme Graphics
Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2006
- Messages
- 10
Dave,
I have never done roofing, but I understand the principle of starting from the bottom & going up & staggering the length of the shingles along the tab lines. Can you explain the pencil lines on the sheathing in the picture below to me. I can understand the horizontal lines somewhat, but what do you use the vertical lines for ?
I have never done roofing, but I understand the principle of starting from the bottom & going up & staggering the length of the shingles along the tab lines. Can you explain the pencil lines on the sheathing in the picture below to me. I can understand the horizontal lines somewhat, but what do you use the vertical lines for ?
Bolt11
Member
Do you mean the lines on the OSB? Those come that way when you buy em. It's supposed to help you line up where the stud/rafter is below it, but it never seems to be that way, lol.
Bolt11 said:
Yes, that's right. That grid of lines is printed on the OSB. It's helpful in cutting (sometimes), and in nailing. And for rolling out tar paper, it's a quick reference. But they are not true enough to shingle by IMO, and definitely not to cut by without measuring. Also gives the garage a nice plaid look until the siding is up.
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Xtreme Graphics
Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2006
- Messages
- 10
So did you snap chalk lines for each row of shingles, or what is the best way to get straight lines ?
We snapped a chalk line every 3-5 rows, depending on how the mood hit us! LOL. I felt like 3 rows was about ideal, so the days when there was only one other guy helping me, that's what we did. The last day, I had 3 guys helping me, and it moved so fast, I barely had time to get a line snapped every 5 rows. Looking at both sides, I can't tell any difference in how straight the rows came out. But I wouldn't want to go any more than 5 rows (with the architectural shingles, that's one complete "set" of offsets [1 full shingle, one less 5 5/8", one less 11 1/4", then the first cut off piece, then the last cut off piece....then start over with a full one]). After more rows than that, you can start to get off enough that it is noticeable, and hard to make up in just one row or two.
It's been a while since I updated this post. Winter, Holidays, day light savings time....they are really impacting my progress. But we have gotten some things done.
The electrical conduit is trenched in. One pipe for the electrical, one for me (cable, phone, internet, intercom?, etc.).
The gas line is also trenched in.
And both have passed their inspections.
The 18' overhead door was ordered, has arrived, and will be installed next week, along with its 9' sibling.
I'll also be ordering my furnace this week.
I still have some things to nail down (
) inside the garage, and I've still got to get that plywood up above the doors on the front. Hope to get that done tomorrow.
Also heard back from Weyerhaeuser (laminated beam manufacturer) with the approved size and locations of holes I can drill in the header over the 18' door for electrical.
So while there's not much to SEE, there is progress being made!
The electrical conduit is trenched in. One pipe for the electrical, one for me (cable, phone, internet, intercom?, etc.).
The gas line is also trenched in.
And both have passed their inspections.
The 18' overhead door was ordered, has arrived, and will be installed next week, along with its 9' sibling.
I'll also be ordering my furnace this week.
I still have some things to nail down (
) inside the garage, and I've still got to get that plywood up above the doors on the front. Hope to get that done tomorrow.Also heard back from Weyerhaeuser (laminated beam manufacturer) with the approved size and locations of holes I can drill in the header over the 18' door for electrical.
So while there's not much to SEE, there is progress being made!
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Wile1Coyote
Well-known member
What no new PICS? It's been 6 weeks Dave. been busy with my new night job and i finally go ttime to pop over and check. Whats the status?
On a side not are you going to WPC end of the month? I need my wingman! LOL
On a side not are you going to WPC end of the month? I need my wingman! LOL
Sadly no, I haven't had time to do much with it of late. Too many other obligations right now. I actually hope to get at least one day on it this weekend.
And yes, I'll be a the WPC meet. You going for coneys for breakfast before hand?
And yes, I'll be a the WPC meet. You going for coneys for breakfast before hand?
Wile1Coyote
Well-known member
Did I mention that I have a rough construction heater, you are welcome to borrow if you need some heat out there? Will get that place toasty in about a 1/2 hour. propane jobbie don't know how I ever lived without one. Holidays sure can **** up the time though I understand that part of it.
Not sure I am going at the crack of the day but yeah probably. As we get closer lets figure out a time and meet. i think I am going to redo the blue car before spring so I am going to be actually shopping for some stuff this year.
Not sure I am going at the crack of the day but yeah probably. As we get closer lets figure out a time and meet. i think I am going to redo the blue car before spring so I am going to be actually shopping for some stuff this year.
SnyperBob
Active member
gsport
Well-known member
yeah.... i'd like to see the end result.....
sean Buick 76
Well-known member
Do you happen to have any involvement Buick Buick 350 and 455 engine dyno testing? The name dyno Dave rings a bell.
Hi sean Buick 76.
Been a while since I've seen this old thread.
I did not have any involvement with Buick V8 dyno testing, or any other. Th nickname is a little misleading that way. I worked at a Chevy dealership in the late '80s, and many of us had nicknames. Our best driveability tech hung that one on me, and it stuck. When I started registering on forums 20-some years ago and needed a username, I dusted that off. Sorry.
Been a while since I've seen this old thread.
I did not have any involvement with Buick V8 dyno testing, or any other. Th nickname is a little misleading that way. I worked at a Chevy dealership in the late '80s, and many of us had nicknames. Our best driveability tech hung that one on me, and it stuck. When I started registering on forums 20-some years ago and needed a username, I dusted that off. Sorry.
I'm not sure how to go about dusting this old thread off, but with a nice QST plaque being cast for one of my garages, I guess I'd better do something.
A quick summary...the garage is a (mostly) exterior finished storage box. No electricity (save for a 50' extension cord running from a shared 15A outlet in the front garage), no insulation, no drywall. As a big storage box, it has served me well while the economy foundered, and the employer of my wife and I of 30 years shrank, lost money, was sold again and again, and has all but disappeared from this market. Two kids have finished grade school, middle school, high school, and are both now at different universities out of state. Folks have both passed on. But the old "new" garage has served me well.
Oh, I promised myself I was not going to move one single thing into until it was done inside... And you guessed it, it's packed with "stuff".
Anyway, life goes on in the front garage. So that's where I will pick up. With restification of my old Mopars on hold until who knows when, I bought a Trans Am to enjoy now (starting six years ago). The current project is to get the paint corrected/polished as best I can.
A quick summary...the garage is a (mostly) exterior finished storage box. No electricity (save for a 50' extension cord running from a shared 15A outlet in the front garage), no insulation, no drywall. As a big storage box, it has served me well while the economy foundered, and the employer of my wife and I of 30 years shrank, lost money, was sold again and again, and has all but disappeared from this market. Two kids have finished grade school, middle school, high school, and are both now at different universities out of state. Folks have both passed on. But the old "new" garage has served me well.
Oh, I promised myself I was not going to move one single thing into until it was done inside...
And you guessed it, it's packed with "stuff".Anyway, life goes on in the front garage. So that's where I will pick up. With restification of my old Mopars on hold until who knows when, I bought a Trans Am to enjoy now (starting six years ago). The current project is to get the paint corrected/polished as best I can.
The old gal still looks good, but could be a lot better. Slow as a turtle, I've spent several years thinking about doing some paint correction, what machine, what product, etc. I assembled the chemicals, and recently bought an HF polisher. I looked at others, but could not find a significant difference between the Maguires, Porter, etc.
But there are things to watch for. HF has two part numbers for these, and one is a better unit than the other. More details in this video.
But there are things to watch for. HF has two part numbers for these, and one is a better unit than the other. More details in this video.
It's pretty well reviewed. I'm sure there are more refined machines for a few dollars more, but I think this represents good value. As I'm not going to be doing many other cars, I thought this machine was good enough for who it's for. There are several comparison videos on YouTube, like this one. This guy has done quite a few detailing videos, and seems pretty knowledgeable.
There are 4 areas that get mentioned for potential improvement with this unit. They are:
1) Throw out the backing plate that comes with it. They are off balance, and vibrate terribly. Buy a quality name brand replacement.
2) Disassemble the unit, and replace the grease. The factory grease is cheap, and they don't fill the cavity well.
3) Replace the power cord. It is vinyl, and short.
4) Disassemble the back of the machine and rotate the body so that the switch is on the side of the unit rather than on top.
So the first thing I did was try the backing plate. Sure enough, it has a lot of wobble in it (the shaft appears to not be perfectly perpendicular to the face of the plate). I can't load video of it, so you'll just have to take my word for it. If you buy one of these, it's worth checking out first.
HF must have been listening to customer complaints, because mine came with the switch clocked to the side. No modification required.
I'm going to live with the power cord. I have another work-around for that. And again, I'm not going into the detailing business.
So that just left the grease, which I felt was worth doing. Here we go....
There are 4 areas that get mentioned for potential improvement with this unit. They are:
1) Throw out the backing plate that comes with it. They are off balance, and vibrate terribly. Buy a quality name brand replacement.
2) Disassemble the unit, and replace the grease. The factory grease is cheap, and they don't fill the cavity well.
3) Replace the power cord. It is vinyl, and short.
4) Disassemble the back of the machine and rotate the body so that the switch is on the side of the unit rather than on top.
So the first thing I did was try the backing plate. Sure enough, it has a lot of wobble in it (the shaft appears to not be perfectly perpendicular to the face of the plate). I can't load video of it, so you'll just have to take my word for it. If you buy one of these, it's worth checking out first.
HF must have been listening to customer complaints, because mine came with the switch clocked to the side. No modification required.
I'm going to live with the power cord. I have another work-around for that. And again, I'm not going into the detailing business.
So that just left the grease, which I felt was worth doing. Here we go....
There are many good videos on YouTube showing how these machines come apart to perform the needed modifications. This one is a general overview.
This one focuses on the grease change. I thought this one was nicely detailed.
So with the wobble (backing) plate removed, the black plastic head cover, counter weight, and orbital mechanism can all be removed.
This one focuses on the grease change. I thought this one was nicely detailed.
So with the wobble (backing) plate removed, the black plastic head cover, counter weight, and orbital mechanism can all be removed.
Next, the gear box cover and ring gear come off. Unlike the videos, mine came off very easily.
You can see the gears are DRY. You have to assume the machine was tested at the plant, and I ran it here to see the NVH level prior to changing the plate and grease.
I'm no engineer, but it would seem that grease ought to be finding it's way onto those teeth. You can also see voids in the grease that was added. Now, there's going to be heat, and expansion, so you need a little room for this, but not that much.
Just looking it over...wait, is that a piece of FOAM under the pinion nut? Why yes, yes it IS!
Interesting. That was not in other machines that I watched videos of. Soooooooo....is this "hung over plant worker put a piece of trash in there", or was it dropped in by accident, or is this some sort of improvement?
You can see the gears are DRY. You have to assume the machine was tested at the plant, and I ran it here to see the NVH level prior to changing the plate and grease.
I'm no engineer, but it would seem that grease ought to be finding it's way onto those teeth. You can also see voids in the grease that was added. Now, there's going to be heat, and expansion, so you need a little room for this, but not that much.
Just looking it over...wait, is that a piece of FOAM under the pinion nut? Why yes, yes it IS!
Interesting. That was not in other machines that I watched videos of. Soooooooo....is this "hung over plant worker put a piece of trash in there", or was it dropped in by accident, or is this some sort of improvement?
Old grease removed. Some of it lifted out in "chunks", and seemed almost dry, if that's possible for a grease. I don't know if changing this out will be helpful or not, but I think between the appearance of the grease, and low quantity of it, I can feel good about changing it, regardless of the result.
With the grease removed, and with a gentle prodding from a small screw driver, that foam block is clearly adhered to the housing. So I think I'm going to be leaving it in there. Even if it breaks apart, I don't think a little foam residue mixed with the grease will lead to catastrophic gear failure. But I could be wrong.
All cleaned up and ready for some new grease. Not pictured, I also removed the ring gear from the housing, as I wanted to clean and lubricate under it.
With the grease removed, and with a gentle prodding from a small screw driver, that foam block is clearly adhered to the housing. So I think I'm going to be leaving it in there. Even if it breaks apart, I don't think a little foam residue mixed with the grease will lead to catastrophic gear failure. But I could be wrong.
All cleaned up and ready for some new grease. Not pictured, I also removed the ring gear from the housing, as I wanted to clean and lubricate under it.
And back together she goes. It was all dry when I opened it, and probably doesn't "need" grease, but I gave it a coating anyway. There were 4 machined pads in the ring gear housing that might make contact with the back of the ring gear, so now their lubed.
Teeth of the pinion packed.
Motor gear housing packed with grease. I left some room for expansion.
Ring gear and key dropped into place.
Ring gear and housing dropped back into place. No grease oozing out, so I think I got the volume right.
Housing for the orbital mechanism is next.
Orbital mechanism threaded on...
...and tightened.
Decal covering the orbital mechanism locking tool access hole back in place.
Cover back on...job done. It doesn't turn it into a Flex machine, but it is smoother and quieter.
Teeth of the pinion packed.
Motor gear housing packed with grease. I left some room for expansion.
Ring gear and key dropped into place.
Ring gear and housing dropped back into place. No grease oozing out, so I think I got the volume right.
Housing for the orbital mechanism is next.
Orbital mechanism threaded on...
...and tightened.
Decal covering the orbital mechanism locking tool access hole back in place.
Cover back on...job done. It doesn't turn it into a Flex machine, but it is smoother and quieter.
Griot's backing plate arrived today, along with some microfiber and pad cleaner. Immediately chucked the plate it in the machine, and it's as true and smooth as it could be.
I most whole-heartedly agree with the advice from YouTube...if you buy and HF orbital polisher, open the box, grab the included backing plate, and throw it right in the garbage. The difference is so dramatic...I wish I could post video of them.
I most whole-heartedly agree with the advice from YouTube...if you buy and HF orbital polisher, open the box, grab the included backing plate, and throw it right in the garbage. The difference is so dramatic...I wish I could post video of them.
Speaking of QST, I would classify this little project as fitting that category.
I like to shred just about everything that goes out of here, paper-wise. I have a nice medium duty cross-cut machine that was being thrown out at work. Had a bad safety, which I bypassed, and she runs well. But it has the uncanny nack for overheating and hitting its thermal limiter about 90% of the way through the stack of items I have to shred. The top gets pretty warm, so I've been wanting to add some cooling holes for a year or two, and just never got around to it. Today, I did! Very satisfying to get that job done.
Here we are in overheat mode.
Marked out with a metal ruler and Sharpie, then center-punched.
Pre-drilled with tiny holes, then every other one enlarged to a middle size.
Tried a fewer larger ones mixed in...
...but decided to drill all the small ones to the larger size.
Worked out well for now. You could feel the heat rising off the motor.
I like to shred just about everything that goes out of here, paper-wise. I have a nice medium duty cross-cut machine that was being thrown out at work. Had a bad safety, which I bypassed, and she runs well. But it has the uncanny nack for overheating and hitting its thermal limiter about 90% of the way through the stack of items I have to shred. The top gets pretty warm, so I've been wanting to add some cooling holes for a year or two, and just never got around to it. Today, I did! Very satisfying to get that job done.
Here we are in overheat mode.
Marked out with a metal ruler and Sharpie, then center-punched.
Pre-drilled with tiny holes, then every other one enlarged to a middle size.
Tried a fewer larger ones mixed in...
...but decided to drill all the small ones to the larger size.
Worked out well for now. You could feel the heat rising off the motor.